I'm curious, If I'm rolling in neutral at say 5mph and blip the throttle just a bit why do the revs shoot up on their own and then rev hang before dropping down again?
View 2 RepliesSo I drive a 2008 R32/U.S. spec and I was in neutral when I pressed the throttle and it would not rev over 4000 rpms and was wondering why??
View 24 RepliesI have a 2010 Accent GS, 5 speed. While sitting at a red light, or even rolling in neutral, the car will just die out. 90% of the time, the car will start right back up, no problem. A few times, though, it would not start right back up.. I put my flashers on, and just keep trying. It eventually starts up again, as people honk and get angry at me, but once a nice guy pulled over and offered to give me a jump and it started right up. I drove right to an autoparts store and had them test my battery, starter and alternator. All came back perfectly fine. There is no check engine light coming on when this happens. There is no code produced. A knowledgeable friend recommended i just change the battery since my car is 6yrs old, 104k miles. He said he had a similar experience and just changing out the battery solved everything. Well, i just did that and it stalled again. That obviously was not the problem.
View 8 RepliesI've been driving manual for like 20+ years and the SFS is my first automatic. If the 2.0T would have been available in the trim I wanted I would have take the manual.
Anyways ; since I like to come to a nice smooth stop I switch to neutral gear (N) from drive (D) like 10-20 meters before a traffic light. When driving in the city I do that like 1 time per minute at least.
1. is this bad for the transmission ?
2. is keeping the transmission in D while stopping causing more wear on the transmission (since the car wants to go forward but the breaks won't let that happen) ?
I have an 2002 Hyundai Auto.
My car has the clicking noise under the following situations:
1) rolling in neutral with/without brake applied
2) rolling/decelerating without gas pedal pressed (I guess the same as rolling in neutral) with/without brake applied
The noise is the most noticeable when going at around 20 to 30mph, and would be gone under very low speed <5-10 mph. The weird thing is when I press the gas pedal and the car is accelerating, the noise is gone too.
My mechanics said it is because the wheel cylinder which is noisy. But I don't quite understand why the noise is gone when the car is accelerating.
I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500, 5 speed manual with 110k miles. This past winter, the truck has started to whine when it's in reverse. The strange thing is that it also whines when it's in neutral and simply rolling backwards. It's intermittent, which is why I've been hesitant to take it to a shop to have them waste a bunch of time with it and say they can't reproduce it. Things that make it more likely to occur -- the truck being cold (IE: shortly after a start), air temperature being cold, when it's in 4WD. When I brake, it stops immediately. If I have the clutch on the floor or the transmission in neutral, it will keep doing it, as long as it's rolling backwards. This never happens in any forward gear, and it's been happening intermittently for a few months now. I had the transmission fluid changed this past fall, sometime before I noticed it started happening.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Elantra with 138,000 miles. I never had any slipping or jerking or reverse issues in the past. I got into the car put it in reverse just fine then put it in drive and nothing happened, I put it in park and the car kept rolling like in neutral and started making a loud grinding noise. When I put the transmission in any other gear the noise stops but will not move and acts as if in neutral.
View 2 RepliesToday and yesterday day mark the first time since I have owned my truck, that I have really taxed it with a load or serious work.
I have 8126, miles to date, and hadn't felt this annoying and somewhat pronounced shudder at throttle- tip in. Only from a dead stop. I'm doing some work to my house, so as I type this I have about 700-800lbs in my box. I've never felt this shudder empty as I do with a load, and starting out on an incline.
It feels like the rear is rolling over a "rumble strip" for the first few feet of throttle input, between 5-10 mph and then smooth everywhere else.
Rob- if your reading this, I can't remember if your shudder was similar, or if yours did it empty or only when towing or hauling a load.
On cold mornings here in California, like most older cars with high mileage, it makes some ticking/valve sounds until I fully warm up my car after a mile or two of driving. At that point, the sounds disappear.
I've noticed that if I blip the ignition or turn over the engine without starting the car, when starting up on cold mornings, it doesn't make valve lash noise or ticking when I pull out of the garage.
I chalk it up to the fact that I "threw" some oil on top the head before starting up the engine fully. I've only done this maybe 5 times since I found out.
Car: 99 Civic w/ 217k+ miles.
The transmission shifts into gear and when the clutch is released it starts to crawl forward. When the throttle pedal is pushed it still revs up the engine normally. But when the transmission is in gear and the throttle is pushed it revs up like it is in neutral. At first I thought this might be a transmission problem but then I figured it might be a linkage somewhere. After looking under the hood and under the car I still couldn't see anything that would cause this problem. I had this car less than a week when this happened and I had to be towed home.
View 4 RepliesSo today I detailed the car, as I am moving on to do the windows *(last thing). My rear right window started acting up.
1. I rolled it down to clean the top.
2. I clicked for it roll up and it did
3. 1/2 second later it rolls back down on its own all the way down *(well as far as they roll down on the back).
4. I click again once for it roll up and it does, but 1/2 second later rolls back down on its own.
So I walked over to driver side to use controls on that side and same thing kept happening. The only way to get it to stay up was to roll it up, and take the key out as soon as its up all the way. It kept doing it for some time, not sure what to do. I literally very lightly tapped on the rubber housing thats between the door jam and frame *(when you open the door) and window is now working fine.
I am about 150 miles of 36K
I'm getting a clicking noise while rolling, somewhat loud, and the same consistent clicking noise that speeds up when I speed up. Just a normal "click.....click.....click....click....". Would this most likely be the wheel bearing or am I getting in the red with possibly an axle?
View 9 RepliesI have had my '16 4 dr S for about a month now, and have had only one issue, well two if you count the fact that my LG G4 will not connect to AndroidAuto. Even when it is dry out and hasn't rained for days, both sides of my windows will be wet after rolling them down and back up. It is almost like the rubber seals act like sponges and coat the windows with water as the window passes through. It is not enough moisture to drip down the windows or cause a musty smell or anything, but it is aggravating.
View 10 RepliesI have an 11 GTI, got it about a month ago new. I noticed ever since I first drove it, when the tires are cold, and I maneuver in slow speeds, I hear a sort of rubbing noise over pavement. It almost sounds like when you drive a car slowly on an inside floor, like on a dealer's showroom - is it normal for them to do this? PSI is at the recommended levels, nothing seems to be rubbing. I think when the tires warm up the noise goes away, and especially at higher speeds it is not there.
View 4 RepliesA mouse in my engine bay? No, not exactly... Although by the sound of it, it's possible. There is a squeak I hear when rolling at <40 miles per hour that happens randomly. It also happens when I turn my wheel from side to side while stopped.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2.0 auto city golf. The wife claims when she's sitting at a light the temp gauge drops to nothing, it sounds like it stalled and starts to roll back and then comes back to life when she pumps the gas. Every time I drive it it's fine.
View 2 RepliesI have a Mk4 1.8t , I left a light on and near killed the battery one night , was parked on a hill so I let it roll start.( I know this is where I went wrong so lets get past it....) It started in what sounds like some type of limp mode, dim dash lights and about 300-400rpm. cruised at about 10mph for say a 1/4 mile before the engine returned to normal rpm and lights returned to proper brightness.. now the car has a problem I cant seem to put my finger on. When it gets to about 3000rpms it bucks and begins to throw multi misfire codes making it hard to even get to 30mph.
It reminds me of how it felt when all the coils started failing but I know it cant be that because its all new , (plugs ,coils,) I have also replaced a few other easy parts such as the n75 and the diversion valve next to it, as well as the fuel pump and filter. One thing I noticed when I leave my n75 unplugged (wide open) it seems to run better making it easier to drive but if I go anywhere past 1/4 throttle it bucks and struggles. I've used the Autel to scan it for other codes but the only thing I get is random multi mis codes and mis codes for each individual cylinder.
Some of you may have seen my thread on my new car: [URL] ....
Its got just over 500 miles on it and I have noticed that at moderate speeds(40-50), if i turn, I hear a noise in the rear part of my car as if there's a metal ball rolling inside. I've already checked and there's absolutely no loose objects or any objects for that matter.
I checked the spare wheel bay, removed the spare, and found this beauty just sitting. Where it came from or why it was there.
I have a '94 E4OD trans in my '53 F100. It uses an analog MLPS for the gear selection indicator, Neutral Safety Switch, and Backup light.
My MLPS Neutral Safety Switch shows continuity in Neutral, but not in Park, I need to be able to energize the starter solenoid in both Park & Neutral.
Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?
So, I recently began noticing a weird vibration when I'm at idle and in neutral (with clutch pedal released), for example at a stop light.
It is a very low frequency shudder - as if someone was intermittently shaking their leg in the passenger seat, shimmying the car... It is not continuous, and not consistent. It often, but not always, occurs with a period of around 5-7 seconds, i.e. every 5-7 seconds it's like someone just shook their leg in the passenger seat.
I'm worried something may be wrong as I don't recall noticing this in the past, but then again, it's subtle enough i might have missed it. I'm at about 50 kmi on my 2010 Golf TDI.
I was slowing down earlier and the car was in 4th, so when traffic started to move again, I downshifted to 3rd but the car felt like it was stuck in neutral. I stepped on the gas and it would not move at all, so I popped it back into D and still the same issue. I quickly steered the car to the side and popped it into Park and it seems to have gone back to normal...is this something I should be concerned about? I've never had this happen until today.
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