Golf VI R :: After Installation Of Rear Sway AFS Stuck / Lights Pointing Down
Oct 29, 2013
So as the title states, rear sway install, no issues (so I thought ) go to test drive the car afterward, and the headlights go through the normal sweep, but, they don't come up and level out, instead, they are pointing 10ft in front of the car.
The test drive was otherwise flawless, the R responds well to swaybars, my Mk6 TDi did as well, I just have the rear H&R bar on the softer/street setting for now, but it makes a notable difference just on its own in the soft setting, I'm pleased.
Back to the issue now at hand, I researched and so far came up with there is a sensor on the drivers side LCA on the rear of the arm, and one on the rear subframe that has a push rod type arm (looks like a servo) attached to it and a bracket on the subframe, Is this correct? The sensor in the rear is intact, plugged in, and I traced the wire back to the wheel well and there is no evidence of a ground, pulled or severed wire. I have no scanning equipment and am leery of going to the dealer and letting them plug into the ECM for anything now that I am tuned, not really for warranty, more for I don't want to risk anything being corrupted or altered.
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I just installed rear sway bar & links, this made a world of difference in the way the car handles as soon as I made the first turn I could feel the difference in the car it definitely corners flatter, the install only took about an hour did it in the driveway on ramps, I installed the kia sway bar 555102T000 the bar is 18.3 mm while the stock one is only 15mm I included some pics...
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So tonight I got the chance to install my H&R Rear sway bar on my car...let me start off by saying I was lucky enough to have a lift, air tools, all the correct tools, etc...now the frustrating part...i opened the box saw the bar and new bushings, figured this should be 100% straight forward 10 min job... the old bar came out in about 3 minutes...then I got the new bushings on the H&R Bar and went to put the factory brackets on...they wouldn't fit even close. Luckily I had a press so I pressed them on. Once I got the bar in the car I got the two top bolts started and could not for the life of me get the bottom two...its like they were 1/4in to low... Was I missing parts from H&R? also the factory caps/brackets seemed to sit off to the side of the new H&R bushings and there was no way to line them up straight, but I finally got everything on there..
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I'm pretty certain that my 22mm neuspeed sway bar bushings are shot. they squeak like crazy and when I looked at them to grease them up it looked like they had space, oh and they knock like crazy. Any better source or place to check locally? Would Napa carry something like this? and is Poly my only option? would a rubber bushing wear quicker?
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Rear sway bar make noise when you go over bumps in the road?
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So after about 3k on my rear sway I checked everything to make sure its tight. All is tight, but i notice it moves very little but its enough to make noise and drive me nuts. hard to explain but if you see the h&r bar it has very small allen head screws inside a ring that keep the bar in place where it bolts to the frame there is only a 1/16 of an inch or so of play and its driving me nuts.
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Installing the Hellwig 1 1/4 inch Front Sway Bar on their 11 and up F250 or F350 SRW Pickup?
My 2012 F350 Super Cab LWB XLT 6.7L seems to have quite a bit of sway in the front end. This is especially true moving slowly such as turning into service stations or other off angle turns. The truck only has the FORD OEM puny Rear Anti Sway Bar but the front seems to accentuate sway. The Truck has Rancho 9000XL Shocks, Timbren Enhanced Suspension System as well as Torklift Quick Release Stable Loads in the rear.
The Truck I have is not overloaded but it does carry an Eagle Cap 950 Camper pretty much full time. True the Campers now days are tall so some sway is expected. I just want to reduce the apparent front end sway and wonder if others have used the Hellwig Sway Bar in the front.
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I installed my sway on saturday and it went smoothly. The bushings were greased up, bolts were torqued to spec, nothing was rubbing or touching in anyway. Now I am getting a knocked noise coming from the rear passenger side. after driving it for a day or so i check under the car to make sure nothing loosened up and everything was just how it was when i installed it. What the issue could be, but the noise is really annoying.
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I hit a big pothole and now the driver's side headlight is pointing towards the middle of the car. The lens is still in place. What happened? tell me it's something simple and I don't have to replace the headlight.
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I'm suspecting that my motor mounts are going bad, but I'm not 100% sure. I have a video of the engine movement when slipping the clutch and revving the engine with the e-brake on. [URL]............................... I don't need high performance ones, but don't want to spend a ton on OEM ones either.
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Can the hellwig sway bar links will work with an oem sway bar? I need new ones and figured why replace with something I know will fail early...
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For some reason my front fog lights in the headlights are stuck on when I turn my headlights on. Even the green light on the euro switch indicating the fog lights are on is lit up. But the euro switch is not pulled out to that position. This just happened a few days ago. I was not messing with or touching any of the wiring. Just happened out of no where.
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I have an 04 SE with 3.3. It hit a curb hard last year. With all new parts on the front right corner, including a strut. The car would sway in all directions after the repair. I got it aligned and all was in spec except the rear strut was bent causing a 3 degree camber difference. I put new struts on all the way around.
I didn' change the front sway bar. Now the rear of car is swaying to the side when I hit a bump. Is that an alignment issue?
Seems like it bangs and bottoms out more so than it should with new struts. Used old springs, but all else on struts is new, insulators, mounts, strut. Used old boots.
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I installed the 2008 Scion xB rear anti-sway bar (part number PTR11-52091) on my Prius Saturday morning. For those interested in this mod, here are install instructions with photos of the process.
The 2008 Scion xB TRD rear anti-sway bar will fit a Gen III Prius.
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I have a 2007 golf 1.4, the rear door handle doesn't seem to be working and the child lock is enabled. I have been looking online and have struggled to find an answer for the mk6 golf.
- Tried so far- Standing there for about 5-10 minutes locking and unlocking the car while trying the handle
- Tried putting something down the side of the handle but either the coat hanger end is too fat or there isn't a gap like the mk 4/5's
- Tried hitting the handle bit where your thumb would be and just below there with a rubber mallet
Still no joy. The handle feels different from the other side which works so i am guessing the cables not attached to the catch behind.
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As a lot of Camry in this world, my rear sway bar bushings went bad. Tried to replace them, I went slowly with the ratchet on the first bolt as I don't want to go with the impact tool, but that damn bolt decided to break anyway...
I called my local dealer and he said he don't have the replacement in stock and he cannot tell me the size of this bolt.
What is the size? My 07 SE have the bracket with only two bolts.
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My car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
If I replace the rear sway bar end links, do I need to get an alignment? (I just got an alignment 2 days ago). Here is a DIY on replacing the rear sway bar end links: [URL]
The top attaches to the strut.....what is the bar the other end attaches to?
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To summarize. I no longer get any fault codes but the passenger side DRL is not functioning and my rear fog is stuck on. I do not have a euro switch with the fog option. I set byte 18 to 0x04.
The passenger LED running strip functions with the headlights on though. For DRL function it turns on right after releasing the parking brake but shuts off a second later.
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I wasn't sure if I should be having any sway at all while pulling our new 30' TT. Dry wieght is 7200lbs, GVW is right at 9500lbs, tongue weight is around 800lbs, and I'm running a Fastway E2 WDH with sway control built in. While towing this weekend, I was experiencing a very slight amount of sway. It wasn't what I considered to be much of an issue but my wife and daughter both asked why the truck felt as if it was moving side to side slightly. When I say slightly, imagine a small glass of water filled about 1/4" from the top. The sway wouldn't have been enough to spill the water, but enough to sway it slightly back and forth. Winds were about 3-8mph hitting me from the north west (in relations to my trucks heading).
I do have some suspension enhancements that might have contributed to the sway. I have roughly increased the rear end by 4" by adding add-a-leafs and F350 blocks. I have Fox 2.0 shocks and a Helwig Bigwig sway bar. Plus I'm running 295 Nitto Trail grapplers , all 4 at 80psi. I've read that the more aggressive tires could also be a contributor.
My question ultimately is: should I be feeling any sway at all? Is a very slight amount of sway normal when pulling a 30' 9500lb rear hitch pull?
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I'm going to be installing an 8" lift on my excursion and I would like to add a rear sway bar.
I cannot find any info on the hellwig if it works with lifted excursions or if I need extended links, which I also cannot find for an 8" lift
I found front sway bar end links for 8" lift but the rear is really frustrating me
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This problem started in Jan this year and got worse through feb, got it checked in march to find out it had metal shavings and chucks stuck to the magnet. Ive searched the forums for the last few weeks but noticed no one seemed to point out if you can drive it while its like this or is this a recipe for disaster. other than the droning/whining the car will fight me will going in reverse while turning which has happened twice. Need to get the whole rear diff/haldex replaced....
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