Golf VI R :: AFS Error When Pulled Car Into Driveway?
May 3, 2016
Pulled into my driveway one night and a get a AFS failure.
Lights work, everything functions correctly, except my headlights don't level. I've seen some threads refer to it as the "dance".
I have the light out warning on the dash and every time i start my car it says "AFS FAILURE" or something across those lines.
I replaced my headlight level sensor and made sure the level sensor is pointing the correct way (toward the driver side) and that didn't fix it.
My car is lowered, but this issue didn't happen until recently. I do also have Euro Headlights, these were installed months ago. Way before this issue came up aswell.
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I have a Jetta Mk IV, yesterday I went to go drive it and just as I pulled out of the driveway it started running rough, so I pulled back in the driveway and the coolant temperature sensor light came on, then the check engine light. and then it died. Then today I tried starting it, and it will only start and run if I have the gas pedal all the way to the floor, and it runs really rough. Then it will die. I thought maybe the coolant temp sensor since the light came on. I replaced that, and it still does it. I'm leaning towards a head gasket.
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I threw a code and I have it but I am unsure what to do.
The code is P0353
"Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit"
I saw that this might be the coil, the wiring or the ground? I had my coils go on my 1.8t Jetta and that was pretty distinct as the car ran like crap.
The car seems to run fine, I have had the code for 2 days. It went off this morning and it came on again this afternoon.
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Purchased a 2000 F150 (over 200,000 miles) from a company fleet. The truck is not driven on a daily basis, only when needed to haul something to land field. One morning I had to drive the truck. When I pulled out of the driveway and began acceleration the truck began to shake violently. After some experimentation I came to the following conclusion. The vehicle starts to shake when a speed of 45 mph reached.
If I try to hold the speed between 45-55 mph the shaking continues. If I let off of the accelerator, the shaking stops, if I accelerate thru 45, the shaking stops. The shaking is not from wheels, rotors, axle etc. The check engine lite also came on during this time. When the shaking starts, if I attempt to accelerate, the truck looses power briefly then picks up. I didn't pay alot for the truck and really don't know how much I am willing to put into it. If it doesn't cost alot would like to keep the truck running.
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I have a 1993 Dodge Dakota with a 5.2l MPFI and auto trans that has me and many other mechanics stumped. Recently it stalled on me when I pulled it into the driveway, and ever since it has had this problem.
When I start it up in the morning and it's cold, the problem isn't as bad, but as it warms up it gets worse. It sounds like it's running rough, but its firing on all cylinders. I've verifies this by pulling the plug wires and also the fuel injector wires, and each one will bog the engine down a bit. Also, when I'm cruising or parked, if I hold the throttle at 1000 rpm or less, it loads up and will stall when I let off the throttle. I have to bump the throttle to about 1500 rpm or so when pulling up to a light so that it won't stall on me. When I hold the throttle and it loads up, I can read the o2 sensor with a scanner and it shows 0.8 or 0.9v, so I know it's running rich. If I let off, the sensor reads normal. It's not super rich, but enough that it causes this problem.
Things I've tried so far:
- Replaced plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
- New coil (old one had cracks in the case)
- Checked distributor for play in the shaft, timing chain for looseness, and cam sensor for damage
- Has a new PCM, swapped back to old one and the problem still exists
- Checked fuel pressure with and without regulator, is within specs cold or warmed up, no odd drops in pressure
- Checked all sensors with scanner to verify they read within specs
- Replaced all sensors with known good used AND new and none made any difference (o2 sensor, MAP sensor, TPS, air intake temperature, idle air control, coolant temp sensor)Plugs are brown/tan colored, none are blatantly rich
- Replaced the battery, alternator, and checked all grounds
- Checked the EGR system for correct operation
- Checked for vacuum leaks and broken wires, found none
The truck also has no catalytic converter and only has 1 pre-cat o2 sensor. I also am not getting any codes.
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My cousin's B5 wagon automatic 1.8T ('00) was shaking and vibrating intermittently. I took it down to Autozone and borrowed an OBD2 scanner. This is what it said (only one code, and the CL was off, although it comes on intermittently):
P0741 - Torque Converter Performance or Stuck Off
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My daughters 2000 explorer has a PO172 code, tune it up,Replaced filters plugs & wires and rear O2 sensors that were damaged. Has 65 psi on fuel rail. Can not find any vacuum leaks. Not sure maybe injectors are dirty.
Also I replaced MAF, now it idles, But it's a rough Idle,Gets worse in gear. She say's on cold start up she can smell a whiff of gas ..
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I have a 2006 prius whose check engine light just came on 1 hour ago. I had it diagnosed and it is giving me the p1121 code, or the coolant flow control valve. I checked the coolant level and it was very low. I added fluid, but the CEL is still on. I have to make an 11 hour trip tomorrow.
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I took my 2006 in for its 50,000 mile oil change today, and I was told I had the following codes related to the transmission and the park/neutral switch:
P0852 (System: Hybrid Control; shown as "hist," presumably historical)
C2315 (System: Transmission Control; shown as "curr," presumably current)
My car is running fine, and none of the dashboard lights have indicated any problem.
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So I bought a used 2005 Prius back in August it had 88,000 miles on it and was out of warranty. But I had a full inspection on it and the car was in great shape. Well, after a few months of driving, I got the P0420 error. I took it into my mechanic who cleared the code and told me to call him if it came back on. It came back on, then I cleared it myself, and it came back on again. So it was confirmed that I had a bad catalytic converter.
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So my engine light came on today while I was out so when I got home I plugged in my OBD2 reader and it gave me a P0441 code which in my Haynes manual says "Evaporative emission control system- incorrect purge flow." Before I got my scanner, I had the engine light come on and I took it to VW. It was the same thing last time. I couldn't quite understand the poor explanation given from the VW guy and so now that that code ran again.
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I was installing the driver's side oem storage drawer and started by removing the 4 bolts that mount the rails to the car. While I was removing the seat rails, my outboard rail somehow slid all the way back and now seems "locked" into position. Basically, the inboard seat rail wants to slide when I lift the lever, however, the outboard seems to be caught and won't move. From the outboard rail perspective, the seat is all the way forward and will not shift back at all. How to deal with this? The pins that move down into the rail to hold the seat in place aren't what is holding it up. My guess is the edge of something in the track is catching.
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Any easy way to get the inner fender back into shape evenly without having to get someone to roll it? Yes my car does have the screw mod, and my wheel fitment is not super extreme. I'm on ST's that are maxed out. This is my first vdub...
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I have a 2005 Jetta 2.0 BEV GLS. I got a code P0302 for misfire on cylinder 2. I am pretty sure it's the Ignition coil. I live in Canada and my autoparts store only has BWD brand. I have read this is a crappy brand.
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So I was getting p0420 and p0430. I installed new hi flow cats on and did coil pack 1 & 3 since I was getting misfires there. Erased the codes after all the installs and they stayed off. It's been a little over a month later since the installs and my CEL came back on, scanned it and I'm getting same 2 codes again
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The Electronic Power Control light in my 1999.5 Jetta GLS VR6 came on a day or two ago. Now it hesitates like crazy even after I've already pulled out and am trying to accelerate. Is there any common problem/malfunction that would cause the light to come on, and is there any correlation between the light and this symptom? Also, the check engine light came on.
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II noticed some oil spots in my driveway and wasn't sure if it was my car, so I put cardboard down and a couple hours later there was oil on it! I put the car up on ramps and there was oil all over the bottom of the oil pan, transmission and you could see where oil had at one point ran down from the top of block where the transmission mounts, but it wasn't fresh like everything else. Also, the diverter valve was covered in oil. I do have a forge dv spacer and the upgraded diverter valve installed and was wondering if this could be the source. The weird thing is that there is no trail that I can see from the diverter valve area to the oil that has collected on the bottom of the engine.
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I have an APR stage 1+, HPPF, Carbonio intake. First thing EVERY morning my car will give a noticeable hesitation when pulling out of my driveway. After this 1 time event, the car rides perfectly. It happened every day. I was told this is gas pooling or some such issue.
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I get noises from my 2010 GTI at stress points within the car when I go over a inclined drive way at an angle or when I hit a bump.
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I had to raise the car a bit to clear the apr turbo outlet pipe. Raised a little too much and was hearing a clunking sound pulling into my driveway or speedbumps, etc. Contacted HR and they said the coilovers have an operating range and to lower them a bit. So.. i have about 3/8" of thread left on both fronts and my (not so scientific measuring method) fender/ground is 24" vs 26.25 stock as measured on a stock gti on my dealer lot. I still have a ton of thread to drop the car (about 1.5") as seen in the picture below. The issue i have is what the spring looks like. It rides fine in my day to day commute so its not noticeable but looking at it, it looks collapsed??
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Had the 2003 Jetta in for inspection, and he said the rear brake caliper was gone. SO he replaced it.
Now in the morning when I leave for work, as I go up my steep driveway, the brake warning light comes on and beeps at me. Then it stops.
On the way home, as I come up the steep road to my driveway, the warning light comes on and beeps at me!
All other times and all other driving, it's fine.
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