Golf VI R :: 2013 - Slow Coolant Loss / No Apparent Location?
Dec 12, 2014
I'm the second owner of a '13 Golf R with just over 11k miles. This car has been on APR Stage III since 17 miles. Since I took ownership of it, it has been slowly losing coolant. I seem to lose 1-2oz per week, and a thorough top and bottom inspection of the coolant lines in the engine bay hasn't revealed any obvious sources of leakage. I've had the oil analyzed, and there wasn't any sign of burning it or losing it into the crankcase, so I assume it is leaking and/or evaporating off somewhere.
The only thing that looked remotely like a possible source of loss is a tiny (maybe 3mm) white "crust" where the plastic end caps meet the aluminum core of the radiator. Is that a likely spot to lose coolant at such a slow rate? Are there any other usual suspects? I haven't let it drop down past the midpoint of the hashed "low" area, so damage from lack of coolant seems unlikely, but it is slightly disconcerting to be losing any.
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I have an 1998 F150 4.6L V8 that is using coolant. I recently replaced the radiator because of a leak in the lower right side. Vehicle has about 190000 miles on it. The vehicle is using some coolant, but no apparent leaks. When I warmed up the engine after replacing the radiator, liquid dripped out of the back of the muffler - rusted out.
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My 94 is suddenly seeing small coolant loss with no apparent leaks, temp goes up on dial now when idling, more frequent white smoke from tailpipe. My wife ran is bone dry of coolant when water pump failed 6 mo ago. Mechanic replaced water pump, timing belt and warned that there could be head damage that may appear in a few months. Is this what I am now seeing or should I start with something else?
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My 2004 Mazda MPV with just over 200,000 miles, started experiencing slow warm-up (during warm weather) approximately 5,000 miles ago. Shortly thereafter, I noticed slowly increasing coolant loss. The coolant loss was diagnosed as a cracked radiator, and, while a new radiator was being installed and the system flushed, I had the original thermostat replaced at the same time. The repairs cured the coolant loss problem, and for a short while the car seemed to warm up normally. However, once the weather turned cold, I started experiencing very slow engine warm-up and also have a minimal amount of heat, even after the temp gauge indicates that the engine is up to operating temperature. The rear heater is experiencing the same minimal amount of heat even after the engine is up to temperature.
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Where exactly is the temperature sender/sensor is located?
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Occasionally, randomly, and unpredictably when accelerating from a slow speed coast I get no power response when I press down on the accelerator. It's as if the engine has stalled, but it has not. When the accelerator is held down for a few seconds (maybe 3 to 7) power comes back with a rush. Examples:
1. Making a U turn from a left turn late. Accelerate slowly forward, take foot off gas as the turn is initiated, press down on gas to accelerate out of the turn and get no immediate power response.
2. Making a left turn into a suicide lane. Accelerate to cross 2 traffic lanes, let off gas and coast slowly forward in the suicide lane while waiting for oncoming traffic to clear, traffic clears, press down on gas and get to response. Continue to press slowly down--no response. Hold the accelerator half or 3/4 down, power surges back after a few seconds.
3. Rolling slowly down a long left turn lane with foot off gas timing oncoming traffic, traffic clears, press down on gas to initiate the turn, no response. Let up on gas and press down again, no response, let up an press down again and car reacts normally.
Occurrences of this problem have been very random. I have spent a good deal of time in vacant parking lots trying to cause the problem to occur without any luck even though I know well the conditions under which it happens. I have left the car with the dealer but, of course, they can't observe the problem either. I have driven nearly 1000 miles without an incident and then had 2 occurrences within 4 miles of each other. I have about 5000 miles on the car and have logged 17 incidents.
Loosing power in traffic is, of course, dangerous. I was about to initiate action under California's Lemon Law when I went to England for 3 weeks in Sept. I rented an Audi A1 and to my surprise I experienced a very similar problem, but it happened much more often. An example would be entering a roundabout, letting up on the accelerator while looking at directional signs, reapplying accelerator pressure and getting no response. Unlike the Hyundai I didn't seem to lose all power, but couldn't get any acceleration. The Hyundai engine is the 4 cylinder turbo and has an electronic throttle. I don't know what the Audi had by way of mechanics. I'm at a complete loss; is there something I don't understand about electronic throttles? I don't have a clue about the source of this problem, but I know I need to get it resolved before I get rear ended.
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My mate has bought a mk4 golf and it is loosing coolant. There is no obvious signs of a water leak the car starts fine, goes up to temperature fine, only time the temperature rises is when the car has to work harder. (going up hill) then returns to normal.
Left the car today for a couple of hours and went to check the coolant level and the system was still under pressure when opening the expansion bottle top. There is signs of rusty water around the cars panels where the expansion tank is located. Previous owner said that it used 4 litres of water on a 330 mile round trip. previous owner said it could be the head gasket but there is no cream on oil filler cap.
There is no sign of water leaking from the heater matrix inside the car.
"2000" y reg mk4 golf 115bhp 1.9 gt tdi all standard
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On my 1.8t jetta she is leaking coolant slowly. Just started when it got cold out. It is dripping down the oil pan right down the center. It is falling off the oil drain plug. Was reading that it could be the water pump leaking but then it wouldn't be in the center of the pan. Got it jacked up now so here are some pics.
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I've got a 96 Toyota Camry, 4 cyl, that appears to be losing coolant. I do not see any apparent leaks. I've checked compression and all cylinders are 170lbs. Within the past year I've replaced the radiator and hoses, timing belt, water pump, etc. Within the past month I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap. I do see it bubbling in the overflow tank. Also you see vapor with the radiator cap off. I feel sure its probably a head gasket ..
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I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu, V6, 3.1, auto, 140k miles. Car started out with code 0420 with no noticeable symptoms, but then added code 0303 (miss fire cyl #3) with loud knock (mostly after warmup) and loss of power under load. Now internal loss of coolant (no puddles or external drips). Changed plugs and wires - no change - all plugs looked good with no sign of contamination. Questions - if this is a valve/piston/lifter problem (which would explain the knock, miss-fire and loss of power), why would I get the loss in coolant? If the loss of coolant is fouling plug #3 (which would explain the coolant loss, miss fire and loss of power), could that give me the loud knocking? I don't see how a valve/piston/lifter issue would cause a leak in coolant but I also don't see how a coolant leak into cyl #3 would give me such a loud knock. Do I have two different problems? If it is a leak into cyl #3, is there any way to tell if it is the intake manifold gasket (which leaked before and was replaced five-six years ago and which I could do again if I had to) or a blown head gasket (which I don't think I could fix or afford to get fixed)? Engine will occasionally get hot (but not overheat).
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I have coolant disappearing but no signs of a leak anywhere. Oil is fine. Car does not run hot. There is rust in the radiator though. Heater core is not leaking. I have a 2001 Pontiac Gran Prix GT. There was a recall on the cooling system but was not serviced (I didn't own car then). A pressure test was done and it holds pressure. Should I change radiator and thermostat? What else should I have checked?
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There is roughly 800 on the odometer and I was averaging around 35 mpg. I filled it up and driving home afterwards I noticed the mpg drop off significantly. Now I'm lucky to get get 27. It was as low as 16 on the trip computer. The range was the same and the miles come off in sync with the odometer. I'm wondering if its a glitch with the trip computer?
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I recently bought the Santa Fe Sport 2017 model. The alarm just keeps going off for no apparent reason. It seems like any wind or a car driving on a street will set it off. Is there a place where the alarm sensitivity can be adjusted?
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I'm 1st time owner of a Subaru. This is an automatic 2013 Outback 2.5i Premium with 9,600 miles.
Last Friday and last night (Sun) when the car was parked with no key in the ignition, there was a continuous sound coming from behind the rear left wheel. It sounded like a fuel pump was on.
To stop it, I put the key in the ignition and turned it until all the lights come on without actually cranking the engine. When the key was removed, the sound stopped. The sound seemed to start a couple hours after I parked the car. Both occurred in the evening and there was less than 1/4 tank of gas in the tank.
Since there are 2 commonalities here, I'll fill up the tank and monitor every 30 min (may not be able to do this when I sleep!). Since it is intermittent, there's not much the local shop could do except to check if there is any Subaru service bulletin.
I am concerned it was draining the battery last night but this morning it started right away.
I don't know if this has been happening without my noticing. So is this normal?
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So leaving work yesterday I noticed my coolant light was on. I checked the coolant level and it was like under an inch below the min level.
I decided to try to drive it a few miles to the dealership for coolant, keeping an eye on the temperature. When taking the exit to get to the dealership the car shut off and the battery light came on. I started it back up and it ran fine the remaining 50 feet until I got to the dealer. I parked it in the service lane and checked the coolant again and it I had almost no coolant in the resevior. I'm almost sure I need a waterpump, which was my first assumption the second I started the car. What I'm wondering is why the car shut off while driving. The engine temperature didn't change the whole way there but I'm wondering if it could be that the car thought it could soon over heat, so it cut the power, or if it could be something else.
The car is a stage 2 2013 GTI with 24k miles.
TLDR~ Can a mk6 gti that is low on coolant shut itself off the protect itself from overheating? Could coolant have leaked onto something to make it shut off? Or do you think it would be for another reason?
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Had my car since the end of december 12, now after a drive to San Diego from Las Vegas I experienced a check coolant light beeping this morning. I didn't check the fluids the day of leaving but 3 days before and everything was all good. Checked the levels and it looked like there was barely any in the tank. After I picked up some coolant from the local dealer thinking maybe I just needed to put more in don't know why I didn't have them look at it then I should have. As I unscrewed the cap after letting it sit for a while I saw coolant surface in the tank.
I thought that was weird but I said oh well let me put a bit in since it looked like it was just duno if this will sound right storing more inside the engine? Let it run for a bout 20 mins and took off. from the dealership when I didn't get the warning anymore. went driving for some bit and got the same warning when I was heading back to my hotel. now I was tripping :|. I parked the car and let it sit in a spot with n spots of oil came out and found a decent sized puddle after letting it sit for some minutes. wiped a bit of it up with a paper and it seemed kind of dirty but reddish, and it seemed greasy like.
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I know this is a ford truck site but today I was trying to clean some corrosion off my battery post on my ford fusion with water. Well when I went to crank it up it was slow to crank and it has absolutely no power, won't rev at all. From what I already knew, it seems like some moisture got in the distributor cap. Am I right and if I am were can I find the dang thing and how can I fix it?
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I tried starting my car today and it didn't want to go. I took out the air intake sensor blew at it and plugged it back in and started it, but it didn't sound the same, the muffler wasn't making as much noise as usual and just sounded like the engine wasn't working the same. After that it started normal and i've been driving for about a week, and today it didn't want to start again so i took out the censor did the same but still didn't start so i put down the clutch revved it a couple times and like magic it worked.
I think i need to change the censor but i'm not sure and i don't want to spend money if i don't have to.
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