Car: 2013 golf r.
Mods: stage 2, spm downpipe, stock catback, stock intake, dxd stage 2 clutch.
All of a sudden I am getting 17mpg in the city and 22-24 on the highway. Checked fuel trims and they are within 5%. I checked just the 032.
So... I bought Ksport Coilovers and had them installed about a month ago. Were on the car about a week and started to get creaking noises from the front. So, I contacted BSH (who sold them) who put me in contact with the Director of Operations for Ksport...
Send them to him, and he replies that he thinks my sway bar is high, and that it should be "parallel with the ground. Today when backing up (down right) I get a horrible scraping grinding sound. I stop, get out (thinking it is the fender liner) only to find no damage. So I keep checking and find a fresh scrape on the axle. I drive (gingerly) home and pull the wheels off and check everything in the front. It is all tight and nothing seems to be broken. I look at the sway bar end (which is curved).
Back in may, the ac started having a horrible smell for the first few minutes while on. It smells like crayons gone bad. I heard about this before but either i suck at researching ( probably this) or i am the only one with this problem (I am sure I am not).
Well, today on my way back from work my i tried to tun on my ac and nothing.. the fan on the radiator works, but the blower doesn't. Researching again, i found something about the resistors on the blower going bad. However, most of the people posting about it didnt have climatronic like we do. Is it the same for us?
Which fuses and relays are related to the ac?
Both sides do it on turns and I notice it only when it is wet? It seems to be coming out of the tires...Pirelli P Zero Neros
Car has 3800 miles on it.
Need to diagnose what I assume is a brake problem. On track, first lap is fine. Second lap start to get a vibration under braking. By the third lap the car is shuddering horrible under braking. Let the car cool for 5 minutes and it's back to the same pattern. Car is fine on the street - no vibration. StopTech slotted rotors and EBC Yellow pads. Rotors and pads have one track day on them and a few thousand commuting miles. My OEM rotors with the same brand pads lasted 4-5 track days and 30k miles.
View 11 RepliesI have an my 2008 Golf mk5 R32 DSG. I have fitted the GruppeM Intake , done the decat and fitted a Milltek Resonated system. I am based around 1.12 miles above sea level and our fuel here is probably the equivalent of your 91. I had the car dyno'd yesterday with the graph below :
1. What is causing the horrible dip in torque and power just after 4000rpm? Do R32 graphs general look like this? Could it be a result of the variable valve timing?
2. I have a feeling my DSG's mechatronics unit is faulty , could that cause a loss in power or have a result on the dyno run?
3. The power does look low but if I convert it to coastal power it looks to be around 150wkw and 300Nm which seems right?
The biggest concern is the dip in the graph ... Power was measured at all 4 wheels ...
The car has begun making a horrible clanking sound when going over small bumps. It sounds like it did when the control arm bushings were bad on my old mkIV. There are less than 5kmi on the car, so I can't imagine any mounts are worn out. It's still under warranty, so I know that it's just a dealer visit, but I'm wondering anyway. It sounds like crap.
View 8 RepliesJust bought a 2011 GTI certified Preowned with 12k miles. drives perfect the first week I have it doesnt make a noise, like a brand new car.
I get in the car about an hour ago to go get my daughter some tylenol and when pulling out I feel the car almost like Die and then the CEL starts flashing and the car starts smoking horrible. no power at all so I limped back the 500 ft to my parking spot.
I am new to MKVI but had a MKV GLI previously. my guess would be coil packs but wasnt sure about the horrible smoking.
I bought a used 2010 GTI with 37k on it. I am loving the ride, more than I even anticipated. It has the DSG, and I enjoy the multitude of ways I can choose to drive this vehicle.
I do have one issue of concern that I would like some feed back on. Occasionally, when driving hard, the car makes a horrible shudder and doesn't accelerate. It's almost as if the vehicle misses a shift and is governing itself quickly and harshly. I haven't had enough concentration to check RPM's when it does it.
It feels horrible, scares me and makes me wonder what I'm doing, what I need to get checked, or if this is something others have experienced.
Pic for good measure.
I had the exact same problem with my 20th AE GTI... Any solutions out there? This is for a 2008 T2 ...
View 6 RepliesI got an 84 caprice that was given to me by my uncle. The car starts but sounds horrible. When I drive it I have to mash on the pedal to get it to stop missing. Once I get her going she rides fine but from a dead stop she putters a lot. Also I have to stand on the brake and its still not stopping fast enough. It has the stock 305 with the electronic choke rochester quadrajet.
View 12 RepliesI'm having an issue that I think can be resolved. There are no leaks...no smells...I get roughly 12 MPG.. I drive like an old lady YET gas evaporates like boiling water in my car.
View 16 RepliesSo my dad has an 03 Camry and the front brakes make way too much noise. It doesn't bother him much but when we switch cars on some days, it bothers the heck out of me.
I searched around on the forums and i couldn't find my exact situation. The front brakes are not even close to being worn and rotors were changed recently as well. The mechanics clean the area to see if it works but it doesn't. The brakes squeal A LOT especially when it is cold. Applying light to medium pressure will trigger the sound.
Say I was to brake from anywhere between 10-30 miles per hour, it would make such a loud squeal. but when I'm cruising and have to break a little heavier than normal, it won't squeal. Sometimes it won't even make a noise when they are warm. Also it would make so much noise moving slowly in heavy traffic, it bothers me so much and it is quite embarrassing.
I have a 2002 Toyota Celica GT and I seem to be getting horrible gas mileage. I have replaced the Sending Unit. Also, I have attached a collage of photos that I was able to capture on my cell phone of what its doing to understand what could be the problem/issue.
View 5 RepliesAround 30k miles ago (or so) I had some TSW 19" wheels installed and about 1k miles later, I had H&R lowering springs installed. Shortly thereafter, I've had a very inconsistent but horrible steering wheel vibration. Most often this happens when I'm going between 45-85mph. But the strangest thing is that the vibration doesn't always happen! Sometimes I will be on the same stretch of road and the steering wheel will strongly and consistently vibrate as if I had warped rotors. Other times it will be nearly as smooth as glass.
Not sure if this is related but after the most recent set of tires were installed (around 1.5k miles ago) the car now pulls fairly strongly to the left. I've had two shops do three alignments and the alignment seems to be ok.
My primary auto repair shop showed something to me the other day. There is a bushing between the vertical steering rack and the horizontal tie-rods, etc. Whenever I turn the wheel, the bushing flexes/stretches noticeably as much as 3mm but there are no visible tears/breaks in the bushing. The shop visually checked the tie rods and they seemed ok also. A couple of my friends that know a lot more about cars than me seemed to indicate that this bushing should not move much, if at all. Below is a list of the things my car has gone through since we first noticed this issue:
- Three different tires and sizes have been used on these wheels and all have exhibited the same problem over the past 30k+ miles.
- Tires balanced and rotated by several different shops by traditional and Hunter road-force balancing machines. No difference.
- Two shops have cross-rotated my directional tires to see if wheels/tires were the problem but the car still pulled and steering wheel still vibrated.
- My TSW wheels/tires have been put on another car and no vibrations were present.
- Tried another car's wheels/tires and still had the same problem but it was slightly less intensive.
- Wheels aligned three times by two different shops since I had the current tire set installed about 1.5k miles ago. No difference other than the introduction of the car now pulls to the left.
- Replaced brake rotors and pads. No difference.
- Front and rear suspension checked and everything seemed ok.
- Removed Ultra Racing Strut Bar for several thousand miles. Minor vibration reduction but nothing major.
- Replaced hub-centric rings that came with TSW wheels with new rings from a different brand. Zero difference.
- Many other things checked but can't recall exactly what.
Well, I had my Treg back from the shop for two weeks (which is about my mean time between failures) and about a minute into driving last night listening to a cd a loud, scratchy, static sound starts coming out of the system.
It largely obscured, but did not eliminate the music. I switched to radio and got the same effect--can hear the radio, but barely over the static-like noise.
I will be getting rid of the beast as soon as there is a resolution to my lemon law claim, but I am told by my attorney that will take several more months...so I need to keep fixing my frequent problems.
I own a 2006 mazdaspeed 6 with 90k+ miles, 2 weeks ago I had a 90k service done at the dealership. On the 14th of May, the 90k service was done (which includes the changing the transfer case fluid/oil). Car was not driven every day, but on the 23rd of May the car made horrible noises on the way home from work. I called a flat bed/tow truck, and have tried to lock in the problem. The sound seems to be coming from the transfer case.The question is could they have done something wrong or was it just the transfer case’s time to go up?
View 19 RepliesI’m hearing a horrible sound when I drive my 2002 Trailblazer. It has 250,000 miles and we have babied it since the first day we bought it. I’m hoping it will last another year. The sound I’m hearing happens intermittently. I took it by a mechanic, and of course it didn’t make the sound. It sounds like you are driving over rumple strips found on the shoulder of expressways. I then feel a “drag” and it goes away. What’s going on?
View 14 RepliesI got this car off of a friend of mine who drove it drunk until the noise from the back wheel was too loud to handle. about 30 miles. he changed the "wheel" put on the spare and drove it for about another month.
during that time, the shifting began to get a little "iffy". he then brought it in to get the brakes done, and as soon as it came off of the lift . it wouldn't go into gear. instead it just makes a horrible noise from the area of the "output shaft" or where i would assume the prop shaft " flange" would be.
that being said. Every once in a while you can get it to go into gear. just by continually putting it from park to drive. and when it goes into gear the noise stops and it drives "fine" but only for about 30 seconds. and then it pops back "out of gear" and makes the noise again.
I have the 4-cylinder "I4", 2.4 L engine in my 2006 Sonata.
Yesterday, it started sounding like this: [URL] ....
Actually, yesterday it didn't sound as bad. Today I sprayed some BELT DRESSING on it, and NOW it sounds like this!
05 outback xt ... I bought this car last October and don't know the history of what has been replaced and what is oem. That being said I have had a horrible smell (imagine a skunk eating rotten eggs) when I back the car up. I also have a problem with my car hesitating when i accelerate but it goes away once the car is warm. The check engine light has never come on when driving but I know it works.
View 6 Replies