Golf VI R :: 2013 - Driveshaft Went Out At 9800 Miles
Aug 1, 2015
2013 GOLF R 9800 MILE, Driveshaft went out. The dealer is going to take care of this problem. I don't think i should be having to replace the drive shaft at 9800 MILES.
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Started getting a whirring / rubbing sound during deceleration and took it into dealer for diagnostics. They said driveshaft needs replacement. Fortunately they are covering under warranty but it's got me concerned about longevity.
I've got an APR Stage 1 ECU upgrade but otherwise stock. Not a track car and i'm not moonlighting at the drag strip dropping the clutch at 5000 RPMs to try and make into the 11's so am baffled by the issue.
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Came home in the R32 tonight to an awful noise.. Pulled the drivers rear wheel off and pulled a small rock out from between the rotor and dust cap however in doing so, discovered a huge crack in the driveshaft! This is about 2" long... How critical is this to be repaired and is it covered under warranty at 75k mi???
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I recently lowered my mk4 golf with coilovers, now the sway bar is rubbing on the right driveshaft axle... could I just get a small diameter driveshaft instead of getting sway bars? My driveshift is about 2 inches wide...
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How to keep the driveshaft from spinning while I undo the 10mm 12pts? It just seems around enough to slightly scare me into thinking the car might move, and I can't seem to break them loose.
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I had my transmission fluid changed because it was leaking from the pan. I did the job myself but called VW to confirm how much fluid I needed. They told me the wrong amount but we realized that after we did the job.. they did the repair for a huge discount and I only paid $200 bucks for the work for them to "fix" what they messed up. Volkswagen did it and I got the car serviced at the end of April basically. now its the first week of July and under 90 days since the car was service and now it is shifting hard between 2nd and 3rd gear or 35 miles to 45 miles per hour. The car isn't throwing a transmission code I have a vag com and there is no code coming up on that.
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My MK4 Jetta started leaking coolant recently and I'm not sure where it would be coming from. I already checked the reservoir to see if it was leaking out of there but I could not find any leakage. I've found some coolant on the right side driveshaft near the differential, there is also some on the diff. I'm wondering if this could of happened because it has been sitting on a jack stand not being driven for about 2 months. Is it possible that within that time 1 or more of the coolant hoses could have cracked or anything. And while I'm on the subject of why it's on a jack stand, it also has gone through wheel bearings twice within the last 6 months to a year. Is this normal?
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Not driving the R as much now that I got a 2011 Triumph Street Triple R. I use as my primary transportation. But I had the car into the dealer this week for service and they said there is a rubber dampener on the driveshaft that is starting to crack and get loose.
I didn't get time to check out the car on the lift and have not had any problems with this shop in the past nor the mechanic who has ONLY worked on my car since new. The R now has 104K on it.
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I picked up a 2013 ES300h last weekend, love the car so far but have a few questions. If its cold in the morning (~50F) the car shakes for a few miles then goes away, I'm thinking its the tranny. I have the same thing happen with my 2014 Highlander (different transmission though).
I'm used to the VW and BMW forums where there are a lot of DIYs to add options that didn't originally come with the car. Is it possible to add the rear automatic sunshade, swap in a radio from a 14/15/16 ES, add ML sound system?
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I am driving 2013 Sonata for over 13 months, after 2 Synthetic oil changes, I have noticed that colours of oil turns darker after only 1500 miles each time, first synthetic was Quaker State and currently Castrol synthetic.
My Question is, what is the reason that causes the oil to turn dark,what is that substance which goes in oil to make it dark. My previous car Honda Accord could go 7,000 miles without any change in synthetic colours. Whatever it is which causes oil to get dark, cannot be good for engine.
I am being forced to change synthetic oil after 2000 miles. Do not want to drive my Sonata with dark oil. What causes even synthetic to turn dark after 1500 miles. Also why synthetic oil stays clear upto 1500 miles.
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Brand new 2015 1.8l. Under load (up steep hill) engine making a rattling noise. Sounded a little like a bad bearing. Lifted hood and listened in driveway immediately after and noise seems to be coming from valve train (not ideal test as it doesn't emulate load). This is a noise that's developed in the last few miles, not from get go. It only occurs when engine is fully warmed up and under load.
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I have a 14 GT base with manual and I've been noticing at idle (sitting at stop lights...foot on or off brake and or clutch...in or out of gear) it has a bit of a rough idle or stumble during the first mile or two...then its fine. It doesn't feel like it will stall and if I tap the gas I do not notice any difference in throttle response. RPM needle stays steady... is the just something that is normal? It doesn't bother me a lot... just noticeable. All that aside, except the occasional lifter noise at cold start (not always...which is odd) all is good.
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Light came on, most likely due to colder weather. Jacked all tires up to 35psi. Now shows 2 tires low pressure. Why? What is the exact pressure to be at? Says in the car there at 29psi ....
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I just got word that the rear differential is bad. Santa Fe? I only have 9000 miles on my vehicle.
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My Fsport suspension ALL AROUND shown signs of leakage after only 35000 KM....
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My bride's 2013 v5 is flashing "Maintenance Required" at a little over 4600 miles. Way too early for the recommended 10K oil change (though we will probably do the first change at 5K)...
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I recently purchased a 2014 GS350 (CPO). One thing I've noticed is the cruise control has about plus/minus 2 miles per hour variance from its set speed as the car progresses over road inclines. This happens in Eco, Normal, and Sport modes.
I know +/- 2 mph doesn't sound like much, but I thought that the car would hold its set speed without much variance. Even with a manual transmission, my previous car (2006 Audi A4) kept its set speed better than the GS.
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I've read all about the 2013 model having issues with the gas gauge being off...where it would only stay on "full" for a few miles and then quickly go down. I'm having the opposite problem. My gauge is staying on "full" for forever. Right now I've driven about 80 miles and it's still on "full". I accidentally reset the "tripometer" today and then I suddenly had even more miles to empty!!!! I went from 220 to 291 MTE!! Meanwhile my gauge is still on "full"...... Only 600 miles on the car so far......
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Car's at the dealership, AC compressor died. Car has 22k miles. They stuck me in a Cobalt. Base model. Complete with manual windows and door locks.
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How many miles can be driven after the computer tells you have zero miles left to empty? Or rather how many gallons do you think is left in the tank after the computer says you're empty?
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My 2006 GS300 has oil burning issue after 80k miles now my odo is at 110k miles. I have changed my oil every 5000 miles, keep burning about 1 quart every 1k miles average. Literally burnt about 20 quarts of an oil with premium fuel. At 105k miles, I had replaced my bank 2 sensor 2 after the check engine light and vsc light came on, reset the code those lights came right back on.
Check the code again, found out bad cat converter between passenger side sensors. The recalls has been done at 65k miles at dealer. My questions are :
-What would be the cause of burning that much of an oil? No leaking on floor or bad smell.
-Is burnt oil causing the failure of cat converter?
-If I replace the cat, will it go bad again?
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