Golf V R32 :: While Driving Hard At Higher RPMs Car Has A Flat / Dead Spot
May 14, 2010
When I first got my car it had a flat spot while driving hard at higher rpms. Almost as if something were actually holding the car back, it would pull nice up to that spot and then just almost die off. I eventually got unitronic flash and it seemed better but it was still doing it. Later companies started coming out with dsg flashes and this seemed to be the remedy but I now have hpa dsg flash and it still does it from time to to time. Could this be a faulty coilpack, or an issue with the intake manifold valve that changes over at higher rpms?
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My 2.0 recently had some problems with the coil pack so I replaced it. Now my car hits a "flat spot" when accelerating around 2000 RPM and then another around 2600 RPM. If I am in 3rd gear going about 20MPH and I press the gas about 25-30% it sort of shakes and won't accelerate and when I take my foot off the gas and slowly ease the pedal down it accelerates fine.
My car also runs pretty rough at a cold idle(misfires). When I press the gas it sounds smooth until it gets back to idle. At any temp my car runs really rough with the A/C on. I also hear a rattle/Buzz around my relay panel when the A/C is on. My car is a 1999 2.0 AEG. I don't have VAG-COM just a generic scanner and the last codes I got were:
P0134
P0135
P0141
I replaced both O2 sensors and the beginning of this year and those codes came back right after I did them. I will scan tomorrow and post any new codes.
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This is kinda hard to describe but here it goes. I have a 2012 Turbo with 33K miles which I have owned since new.
Like I said, it is hard to explain but it seems like the steering wheel has a dead spot when driving. Feels like you have a magnet between the steering wheel and the column. As you are driving, it seems like you overcompensate trying to keep the car in a straight line. Asked the techs at the dealer twice already and they say this is normal for being electric.
Gotta tell you, on long rides feels like I just flew an old C-47 (DC-3) for ten hours straight!
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Golf VI 2.5 automatic... I seemed to notice a dead spot in the throttle when taking off from a light. You press the gas, nothing seems to happen. To start from a stop sign, you have to really give the car some juice to get going, which ends up being too much throttle and sucks gas. In other words, very difficult to take off at a moderate pace from a stop. Seems like all or nothing.
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So my girlfriend has an 04 elantra 2.0... the car will be running fine but then after so long of driving(maybe 15, 20mins) itll start acting strange..
It will hesitate to accelerate and shift hard and at higher rpms. Then at cruising speed it will turn off instantly(no sputter, hesitation, almost as if you just turned the key off). Seconds later the engine will come back but the gauges die and the engine will remain on.
At that point i pulled over and as i was on the brakes the car died when I came to a complete stop. Once the car completely turned off it would not start back up. However jump starting it got it going. The car is not throwing any codes.
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I had these things wrong in the first 12 months
Tire shake: took 4 trips to find one bad tire. Replaced 1 tire
Squeaky front end: 2 trips to find front coil rubbing on the frame due to bad mount or something. Fixed under recall
Squeaky front end part 2: bad upper strut mount bushing. I won't even count the dealership nicking my hood and it has to be repainted.
I have never had a perfectly smooth riding car. Frankly, the loaners drive better. I documented this with the dealer I bought the car from and then with VWoA a month ago. I told them the front tires are shaking again and need a balance. I even had the front tires balanced at an Indy shop. Before my 1100 vacation. Now it needs balancing again. The back has always had a slight bumping
Now at the 10k service, I get a free alignment check and find my car is moderately out if alignment.
I originally mentioned it to my purchase dealer asking if it needed the alignment after all suspension work. They said it was not needed. EVIDENTALLY IT WAS.
So now I have a tire with a flat spot which they should have replaced when I had one replaced. Evidently, this car says before I leased it. I used my free alignment I had with my extended warranty which I should have been able to save for down the road AND I still need a tire balance.
I told VWoA a month ago I shouldn't have to pay for a balance if it kept going out of balance. Obviously, something was causing the tires to be out if balance. It was pretty far out on the front left. Camber was out .58 and the toe .02.
I am highly annoyed. Norm reeves never put the effort in to make it smooth.
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About 3 weeks into the new 13 Elantra. Liking it pretty good. I seem to be hearing a noise of some sort. Almost sounds like a flat spot on a tire. Seems to be more rapid the faster I go and more or less noticeable on different types of asphalt. Didn't really notice it at first. The only thing I did was let some air out of the tires. They had almost 40 psi when I got it. They call for 32.
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I have a 07 Sonata 2l crtd, Its been running fine for about 6 years, But for the last couple of months, when setting off gently, as it reaches approx 1400rpm, I get a blip/hiccup/flat spot/miss. It ONLY happens at 1400rpm, and irrespective of what speed I am doing.
For example, as above, (setting off) but also, if cruising gently at approx 50mph ( which equals approx 1400rpm) then it does it again. It only does it at 1400rpm.
Also (maybe related) the orange engine warning light has now come on ( twice in past 2 weeks ) it stays on for a day or so,,,then goes out. its not flashing.
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I got a 99 jeep sport straight 6. AC works fine after topping off. Pressure 32 l/s 210 h/s could still be a little low but air is very cold. Problem is while drive compressor shuts off. I thought it may have been too low causing it to kick off. while in park & holding rpm's at 2k everything seem to be ok.
It cycled on/off at times as normal but then compressor stopped & didn't come on again. shut the engine off checked the fuses restarted & the air is back running like normal?? so whats going on do I have a bad l/pressure switch or may be a relay sticking??while at 2k rpm's l/side 25 h/side 250 then at idle 32 & 210. I don't think its low enough to cause the shut off but.....
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So I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra, it is a manual transmission. I was having problems with the rpm's going higher than normal at random times while driving, then I noticed that the fluid in the clutch fluid reservoir was low. I determined that to be caused by a bad clutch slave cylinder that was leaking fluid. So I replaced the slave cylinder and that seemed to fix the problem, but now I am noticing that the car lacks power when I'm going up any sort of hill or trying to accelerate faster than normal.
When going up a hill the rpm's will go up and I have a hard time maintaining my speed. When trying to accelerate fast, as in pulling out in front of someone or similar situations, the car seems sluggish and it seems like I need to shift because the rpm's are high but I'm not going fast enough yet for the next gear.
This sounds like it would be some sort of problem-related to the clutch going bad or could the leaking slave cylinder have damaged the clutch. Or does this sound like more of a different problem, maybe something with a fuel filter or something?
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I have annoying problem with the car feeling flat while driving it braking into a corner then coming out of the corner I feel I get no response from the pedal unless I push it down further. While pushing down a little further it roars out of the corner. I have noticed it more now because of the icy roads when I have traction control turned off. Push pedal down slightly with no response, then push 1mm further and the tires spin slowly.
I performed my own test in neutral of the auto transmission. While idling at usual idle speed, push pedal slowly and stop, kept doing this a little further each time to see what the rpm was reading. Finally it went from Idle speed under 1000 rpm and shot up to over 3000 rpm? I tried this dozens of times and could not rev the engine to anything between idle speed and roughly 3 grand. Took to dealer "no codes" I believe this will affect fuel consumption.
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I have noticed several times when leaving my driveway (backing out OR driving out) that it feels like I have a flat spot in my passenger front tire. The first couple times I pulled over to check the tire pressure to make sure it was ok, and it was. It doesn't happen every day, but I have noticed it 4-5 times in the last 5-6 weeks. I was talking to a guy from work and he has the same issue.
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I have a 4160 on a 351 Ford. I confess, it's a boat!
I had a major flat spot when accelerating off idle. I found it wasn't pumping on the accelerator circuit.
I replaced the accelerator diaphragm and cleaned the squirts and the passages. It squirts great now, but if I floor it, it completely bogs. If I baby it really carefully, once the engine gets over about 1800 rpms, it acts fine.
I thought it over, checked the travel on the arm that presses the diaphragm, and figured my pump cam was worn. It "seemed" like the duration of the squirt was not long enough.
I got a new cam kit. The orange cam on my carb was not a bit worn compared to the cam in the kit. Not encouraging. I put the only other cam in the kit that I thought might work. It was blue, and it gave more lift but no greater duration. It did not make any difference that I can tell. Is there a transition circuit I might have problem with? I don't know enough to go any further.
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2003 7.3 Sd Has a flat spot from 2700 - 3000rpm especially when it changes down, say going up a hill , if I decelerate and let it change back up it will pull again but if I leave it changed down it will not rev anymore. No CEL , put it on the scanner , only code that came up is " intake temp Low " which would not effect it. Have just installed new up pipes , new HPOP hoses , in the past it has had a new IPR and HPOP . It had this flat spot before and it would bring up low boost pres hence the up pipes . Have checked all flanges and intercooler boots etc.
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I have been looking around for some boost information. I have come across a few threads that have boost graphs, but the images are no longer available. I have tried to get a hold of some of the posters, but no luck.
I only recently hooked up a boost gauge and have been monitoring my boost more. I had a slight feeling before I hooked it up that I was losing a little boost at higher rpms. Between 4500-5000 my boost drops from 18 to 15 and then from 5000-6000 it drops to about 10. I know it's sometimes normal for boost to drop at top end, but I'm not quite certain it's supposed to be that much.
I installed the Spulen Boost Pipe Kit hoping it may make some type of difference, but it's the same. What it might be? I have checked all my pipes as best as possible, but couldn't find anything.
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Recently bought a MKV R32. Already had a magnaflow cbe, k&n panel filter, and some emissions stuff taken out from under the hood. not sure if it has been flashed, waiting to get a vagcom. think it is pretty stock other than that. My problem is about 2 weeks after I got it, I started to notice an exhaust leak or vacuum leak or both at higher RPMs, like above 3 or 4k it starts. The exhaust has a nice deep rumble in normal driving but when the leak noises start that is all you hear, the exhaust note disappears completely. I have tightened the clamps on the cbe and still does it. Not sure what to look for.
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I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t. 160k miles. Bought it recently. It's been overheating on me. Mainly on the freeway while having the RPMs higher than the small streets. I don't see any leaks. I'm not losing any coolant. But I do smell burning coolant. I don't see anything smoking though. I changed out the coolant temp sensor. I have a thermostat but haven't gotten to it yet. Just wanted other opinions before moving on. There is some sort of little motor on the radiator with some coolant hose connected to it. When turning off the car, it stays on and buzzes for a good 10-15 minutes before stopping. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. I don't even know what that thing is or called.
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When not using the manual mode of the DSG...What are the differences between driving in D and S? It seems like the car shifts more aggressively in S mode, allowing higher rpms before it shifts. Are their any other pros/cons to the different driving modes when in automatic, And what do most drivers prefer?
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I have about 350 miles on my new jetta and i will like to know if its just me or did everyone with a manual go through the same, i feel that up shifting at higher rpms like 4k i feel like the clutch is grinding i actually feel it in the pedal, I haven't gone higher than 4k due to break in period. I also notice that there is no engage while getting out of first almost like its slipping but it is not, i have driven manual most of my life so i know i am not slipping the clutch.
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Ok, I have a 95 F150 5.0. It's sat for 6 months with the engine taken apart. I just finished putting everything back together with a new alternator. Well, I pulled a bone-head move and forgot to connect the harness when I fired the truck up. Other than not charging though, it ran fine. When I connected the harness, it began to chirp and shudder at low RPMs and squeal and vibrate at higher RPMs and it over heated VERY QUICKLY.
So hot the case was too hot to touch and the pulley smoked the belt. The engine didn't even have time to get up to operating temperature. I've had the alternator replaced twice, and this last one tested good putting out 14.5 volts. The work I did on the engine was to replace the valve springs, install a direct drive timing gear, replace a spun harmonic balancer, bypass the smog pump because it froze up, new distributor, a new ECU and O2 sensor.
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1992 3.0L V-6 RANGER
New thermostat
New Water Pump
I noticed the other day that the Upper radiator hose gets Sucked Flat when RPM is higher than Idle BAD it completely collapses IDK how it can circulate the coolant very well in this Condition. If the hoses have ever been changed But the Upper hose Really gets sucked flat. I've seen this a few times on vehicles that have been shutdown But they have always expanded upon startup and are fine....
The Lower Looks Fairly Old and only partly collapses under higher RPM.... I am going to change the Upper hose at a Minimum as its really Bad and probably a lot older than I am thinking and really Soft. I am just wondering if the radiator could be plugged up causing some of this.. Or anything else I should check into????
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