Golf V R32 :: Separate Boot From Knob To Install New Boot?
May 27, 2012
I'm repainting my peeling shifter trim plate and replacing the shift boot with a new one. Lots of support available on removing the shifter and disassembling the trim plate, but no clear instructions on how to remove the boot from the knob. It looks like this inside:
How do I separate the boot from the knob to install a new boot? The only instructions I found showed a metal collar which is not the case in our cars.
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I was installing my fk streetlines yesterday and when I was taking the strut out I must of let the knuckle sag to close to the ground. This caused the outer cv boot to stretch and pop out. Do I need an entire new cv boot? Or can I just slide it back on?
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I'm trying to swap out the shift boot of my 2004 (B5.5) Passat 1.8T 4Motion and running into trouble. According to the instructions from the new Red Line shift boot, I should be able to separate the two collars that hold the boot to the knob. However, the white post that's part of the knob assembly has a piece that's bigger than the lower black collar, preventing it from being removed. Is there something I'm missing? How can I remove the boot without damaging the existing knob assembly?
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How to release the shift knob and boot from the transmission stalk on a B6 Passat automatic?
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Is there any way to repair a small rip in a CV boot without removing the entire assembly? Maybe a new boot that wraps around it or is this a part that needs to be fully replaced.
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I just went to grab some things out of the trunk of my MK7 GTI when I put my hand down I felt moisture so I picked up the mat and I saw about 3 inches of water surrounding my spare donut.
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I'm having some problems with my tailgate (boot) handle. At the moment the boot 'intermittently' works with the central locking. If it doesn't unlock then I have to use the keyfob to open/close a few times before the handle opens the boot. Fortunately it works every time with the key. I must stress that I've never used the key in the boot. The boot lock is set to work with the opening/closing of the central locking. So this problem is NOT user error.
I have posted some pictures of the problem I've now seen with the mechanism. Ok so in the above picture, you can see that I've put a black arrow pointing at the 'latch' in it's correct position.
When you operate the central locking via the keyfob (or inside the car), it pushes the electrical popper (to the left) which rotates the mechanism CLOCKWISE, and in doing so, it pushes the LATCH across so that it can connect with the boot handle
In the following picture, you can see how the 'LATCH' isn't moving across to the position in the first pic. This is why my boot can't open with the central locking.
I must make clear that the electric popper is doing the job as it should. There is nothing wrong with it's function. The problem is the latch is not rotating (clockwise) into it's correct position. It can be moved by hand easily.
The problem could be solved by attaching a spring to the latch, so it pulls downwards. But I cannot understand why or what has stopped it from working as it should. The latch moves fine if you use the key in the lock, so at the moment, the only way to make it open is either open/close the central locking 10times, or use the car key.......
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I guess this would be covered by either power train warranty or certified warranty? I also have axle inner boot leakage. I am going in tomorrow for DSG and fuel filter, going to have them look at these issues...should be fun ... oh yeah and head gasket might show signs of leakage......
Detailed pics in link..... [URL] .....
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I took ownerhip of my R32 last week, there are a couple of things that I have noticed that I need to sort out.
1. There is a resonating sound at low speed from the rear boot trim, right where the rear windscreen wiper is, I can also make it happen when the boot is open by flicking the trim, is it loose, or what, is this a common problem..? Do I need to remove the trim and fix something...?
2. There is a black box under the driver seat with some electronics in it, I am dammned if I can get the lid to go back on properly, I have had a look and can't see any plastic Tabs broken, but it won't go back on properly, just keeps falling off...I have long legs so my seat is nearly as far back as it will go for me to drive, so this box is exposed, I need to get this on properly.
3. The cupholder thing down between the driver and passenger seat, there is a sliding lid on it, it is stuck half open (or closed..!?) and I can't get it open or closed, how th heck do I get at this to fix it...?
4. I will be looking what version Firmware the RNS 510 / MFD2 is, I am also looking for iphone integration, I have blue tooth for calls, and Sat Nav and the bigger display MFD....and would like to control the phone / tunes with the steering wheel, and see the track info in the MFD.
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Car specs:
- 2003 VW GTI VR6 24v
- 100,000 miles
- Clutch replaced at about 80,000 miles
A few weeks ago, I noticed a very slight noise coming from my shift boot. The noise wasn't a grinding or clanking noise; it was more of a noise that sounded like keys jingling or coins rattling (the best description I could come up with).
Anyways, it would only occur on acceleration. When the car is in neutral or shifting between gears, there is no noise. It lasts generally for about 3-5 miles, and then goes away. I haven't had any change or problems in shifting.
Not sure if something is loose in my boot, or if the linkage may be off, or if I should maybe change out the gear oil (since the noise goes away after the car is warmed up).
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Had a "Friend" who multiple friends suggested could install my VWR springs put my springs on. Long story short, the installation was a nightmare. And I should have just been patient and taken it to the local tuner.
My problems now are: Guy snapped an inner axle bolt off. CV boot is spitting grease everywhere. Car does NOT want to turn left. It will turn a little then it just wants to go straight. Am I guessing the last issue may be a broken control arm? What do you think? I'm calling the local tuner tomorrow and getting my car in this week to be repaired.
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Was bleeding my brakes and clutch. Using a power bleeder and it seems as though I put a little too much pressure into the system. The Slave cylinder's green rubber boot filled with brake fluid and began leaking a little. Did I blow a seal? Is this normal with pressure like that? I feel like pushing the clutch in would give more pressure than my little hand pump gives...
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I have a 2004 1.8T 4Motion (automatic) that blew a CV joint boot. After inspection of the other side, I decided to replace both (just the outer boots). Got the axles out without much trouble but now I cannot drive the joints from the axles. I've tried both and neither is cooperating, I've knocked out off them with a mallet but they aren't budging. Is there something to do besides just driving them off?
Axles are tubes (hollow) p/n's 8D0 407 271 (& 272) ED.
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For a couple of weeks now, my boot keeps re-opening when I close it while the car is locked.
My usual workaround is to unlock the car, close the boot and only then, lock the car. However, yesterday evening, this did not work, i.e. I closed the boot then locked the car, but as the car locked, the boot decided to open on its own...
Tried it several times, and ended up leaving the car open (we were invited for dinner at friends of ours, so leaving the car unlocked was not problematic) as I preferred this to leaving the boot open...
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Having intermittent power boot problem .. and now i cant get the boot open at all!!!! nothing happens with internal switch, key fob, external switch and i cant even open it manually with the key..
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This morning I stopped at a Royal Farms store and when I left, the nav didn't boot up. I pulled over and turned my SFS of and back on and everything was back to normal.
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Just noticed something strange. Haven't opened the boot for a few days and We have had some really heavy rain but today, when I did open the boot water, poured out between the carpet on the inside of the boot and the metal. Has water in the actual boot or is there some drain holes I need to check.
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Just picked up my car from the VW Centre, I had the Wiring Harness for Trunk Lid replaced. Now the lights within the the boot and the light in the Trunk Close button are not working.
Could this be a fuse? if so which one, left my manual in UK and I am abroad at the moment. Or could this mean a mistake has been made whilst installing the new wiring?
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Twice this past fortnight I've come down in the morning to find my boot open while the car is on the drive, and as I normally store around 600 worth of golf kit in there this obviously isn't ideal !
Either someone else's transmissions are opening it or, more likely, I'm accidently pushing the button as I fumble around trying to get two small kids and associated baggage through the front door.
Is there any way of disabling the key fob boot release without disabling the switch function of the VW sign on the boot ? I'm considering opening up the remote and removing the switch unless can think of a better solution ?
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Trying to do new boot kit on inner cv joint. I have the ball and cage type inner joint. The joint cap comes off really easy (and a new one comes in the boot kit). The boot cover doesn't come off so easy (and there is no replacement in the boot kit). Bentley's and pretty much every other source of info says to carefully drive off the boot cover to remove cage. But they all pretty much gloss over how to do this carefully. I've hit it a couple of times with a screwdriver blade and hammer, but it's not budging. Trying not to hit it too hard.
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I am a new Phaeton owner, 2004 v10 with the electric boot. I recently had the batteries run flat after leaving a charger in the 12v socket not realising it remained powered. After trickle charging the batteries for 3 days I cant get the boot to operate electrically.
I have scanned with VAG-COM and don't have any errors on the convenience module. The switch on the boot is not illuminated. If I press and hold the boot button on the keyfob the hazards flash but nothing happens. I have followed the reset procedure with no difference. Interestingly on the dash the car does not show the boot as open when it is up. It appears to be receiving no power but I can probe and have tried to reset the parameters of location 22 and 23 on the convenience controller and wouldn't expect access if there was no power. The boot mechanism was working perfectly before the battery ran flat.
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