Golf V R32 :: Rapid Coolant Leak Just Beside Oil Filter Underneath Air Intake
Oct 28, 2011
So far it was the coldest day this early morning at 5am when i went to work here LA at 55 degrees i don't know if it had something to do with this coolant leak. Iwent home from work at 1:30 pm. 2 miles away from home, i get the STOP Coolant warning on the display check manual .
After parking at home, saw some smoke in front of the car maybe because the engine was hot and the coolant spraying in the engine bay some hitting the Evoms intake and there's a lot of coolant liquid just beside the oil filter underneath the air intake. also saw lots of coolant leaked into the floor surface.
I went inside got some coolant and filled with coolant almost full. after taking a nap,drove the R too see if the coolant warning is gone. not even 50 meters coolant warning lit. drove for 1.5 miles to Century City mall to buy stuff, after parking, i popped the hood then surprised, coolant tank was TOTALLY EMPTY! Engine was hot as well, decided to call tow truck.
I hope it's just a lose coolant hose.
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My son was driving his 2001 jetty vr6 2.8 he said he heard a pop and then coolant was pouring out underneath. Radiator and hoses look fine reservoir too.it pours out as fast as you put it in. When underneath it looks like it's coming from an area to the right of the oil filter towards the belt side but not ask the way over by the belts more like the middle of the engine. I can't see anything from above just dripping from below. I am hoping not a head. Oil look good no coolant in it and doesn't smoke.???
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Well yesterday i installed the Neuspeed Intake and had no trouble what so ever until 30 min ago when i pull out of the parking lot abit harsh but nothing extreme no wheel spining or anything like that just a bit quicker exit.
That's when my check engine lit up and i pulled over and checked what was going on and heard a air leak, which is located to the left of the intake filter.
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Repaired a coolant leak under the intake? I just repaired the bad o-ring and rtv at the front coolant bypass joint. But, there is still active coolant leaking around the back side of the block and puddling on the garage floor beneath the front of the transmission each night.
So, I'm guessing I need to start removing the intake to hunt this thing down, the top of the block, just under the intake is constantly moist. But I'd like to have a list of seals and parts I'll need to replace before I start.
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I have a 1998 Ford f150 4.6 2x4 i have a coolant leak on the upper intake. It comes out on the back left of the intake through a metal pipe. Well where the metal pipe is (pressed in) to the intake. Now i talk to the guy at ford dealership in the parts he said it is called the (heater pipe). He also told me that the part is 21 dollars but I have to press it in and if that does stop the leak he said I would have to buy a new intake. Now here is the problem I can not find any info regarding this heater pipe. I don't know how to remove it properly, why it is leaking. I can't find it in the handbooks that i have read so far.
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I just replaced the oil/egr cooler, stand pipes and dummy plugs along with all suggested upgrades, just filled with oil hooked up batteries and while filing with coolant it started gushing out from under the intake in front. I think I see an o-ring pushed out.. I hope I can lift the intake without removing the turbo!!!
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I have a 2006 F150 screw 4.6 auto 116k miles that has evidence of a small coolant leak where the intake manifold joins the head. This is on the drivers side directly under the thermostat housing. The t-stat housing is dry and the hoses all appear dry. It's just wet right at the gasket where the manifold joins the head. Reservoir is still normal so it's not leaking too much just yet.
I searched this site and youtube but didn't find any other posts. Lots of problems with older trucks with composite manifolds but nothing for this one. It looks like a part of the bottom of the manifold is plastic but the entire top and where it is leaking is all aluminum.
It seems odd that this would start in the winter time just driving back and forth to work (no load). And, yes the antifreeze is good. Just wondering if this is a known issue with this truck. Is it just a matter of replacing the gaskets or is there some other flaw I should be concerned about?
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I only removed the standard air filter housing and fresh air intake yesterday to get access to the VSS and Speedo drive to change the differential fluid on my 01M transmission. I was surprised to find that there was a fine metal mesh screen installed at the entrance to this air intake tube. This would be located behind the battery and just behind the drivers side headlight is where this metal mesh screen is located. Anyways, this was easily disassembled to clean and reassemble. However, I did not find anything about this mesh screen in my Chilton's manual, but this is now on my annual maintenance list. I added some pic's to show the clogged air tube. There was also a spring loaded door on this air intake tube...
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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If you have a coolant leak at the y hose for the intake manifold and the thermostat, make sure you replace the upper radiator hose as well as the y hose.
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I was checking the engine today and I think I found a coolant leak close to the Oil Filter reservoir, the fluid is PINK color and that matches the coolant type of fluid, check the pictures. Looking for the location from where the leak might be coming ? Do the Thermostat or Water Pump are closer to that location ?, I have the theory that they might be the cause of the coolant leak, they were changed about 4,000 miles ago,
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I have a coolant leak coming from the area under the oil filter housing where the cooler is. My thought is the little plastic pipe between the cooler and the engine block. I have the alternator removed but am wondering what's next. Can I get to the cooler without dropping the engine?
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I have a 1.8t and my coolant is leaking pretty fast. From what I can see it is coming from the oil filter area. I hope it is just an oil cooler O ring. What else it could be?
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I have a leak where my heater core tube goes into the intake at the rear pass side of engine. I have read that this part is pressed in. I dont want to remove the intake since i just paid $400 to have a new gasket kit put on. My question is can I bypass this tube with a hose from the water pump like in this video?
FORD 4.6 , 5.4 , 6.8, HEATER HOSE UNDER INTAKE REPLACEMENT THE EASY WAY !!! - YouTube....
If I can do a rubber hose like in the video I was to make sure that the tube just goes through the intake and that it does not supple coolant into the intake??
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Maybe I've been having too much fun in the rain... I've recently noticed an odd smell in the car and found a small wet spot underneath the passenger front floor mat, only to be followed by same in the rear passenger floor mat. I was hoping it won't happen again, but I found myself with the wet floor few weeks later after the rain.
I first thought it may be the bike rack (which I have posted in the earlier month) but seeing the location and occurence, it couldn't be from the rack. It was always the underneath the center of the freaking floor mat.
My R is at the dealer since yesterday, getting a full physical.. They're even talking about removing the headliner to make sure there is no internal leak from the roof.
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I had a small leak on the side cover of my trans so I decided to replace the gasket and take the opportunity to drop the pan and change the fluid and filter. However now I seem to have a pretty significant leak from the trans pan itself. The side cover seems ok.
The filter and gasket kit I purchased was a Wix brand. I don't have a torque wrench, so I just tightened to Germain torque spec (gutentight). However now I worry that maybe it's not the right spec, either too tight or too loose. The kit came with new spacers for the gasket and I cleaned the pan, especially around the lip where it interfaces with the rubber.
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I'm at 101k miles, and haven't changed the exterior air intake filter on my 07' B6. I'm experiencing a slight loss of power, and the engine is relatively loud/"gruffy". Had coil packs and spark plugs replaced, oil is changed, as well as PCV work performed. So I'm thinking that the filter could be the problem. Maybe carbon build up too?
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I took my relatively well maintained '98 Camry to Texaco Xpress Lube and they changed my oil and air filter. I then embarked on a 400mile trip to Miami. The next morning when I went to start the car, I fogged the entire neighborhood with a thick low-lying white vapor/smoke. It was ridiculous. So, I opened the hood and noticed my coolant reservoir was nearly empty and my oil dipstick was bone dry. Thinking this was awfully strange, I went to inspect the air filter and noticed that they installed a filter that was short by about 1.5" in one dimension and I could see sand, leaves, and twigs in the bottom of the air box. The shop basically put a square filter in a rectangular air box. After some preliminary research, I've concluded that my engine is now completely ruined because of this. From what I gather, the sand in the airbox enterred the combustion chamber and proceeded to grind the internal components to smithereens. Is this a reasonable conclusion considering my engine has never had these problems before. Also, how would I even start to get some rectification?
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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I can see where coolant has leaked out from underneath and come out the sides of the motor beneath the intake gasket.. probably a bad definition but yall probably know what i mean.. i know its a common 3100 motor problem.
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Yesterday my car threw a CEL for the first time; I am currently APR stage II. Ran the code and came up with P2400. Code cleared, but after 1 cycle it appeared again.
Interestingly, on my way to a cookout today the car started yelling at me about low coolant. I pulled over and checked but didn't see any initial signs of leakage (was raining at the time though...). Continued to my destination and topped off with distilled H2O in lieu of G12 since I didn't have any immediately available. Once I made it back home, checked the reservoir again and saw that the level had dropped (probably ~ 1/2 cup or so). This time, I could see liquid on the belly pan, then on my driveway...
It looks like the P2400 code is indicating an issue in the leak detection pump circuit. Any chance that the coolant leak and P2400 code are related (leak shorted something out...??? I should mention I am not super familiar with the plumbing for the evap system in this car) or am I really this unlucky.
Issues with the car since purchase:
- Replaced clutch (stock would not hold stage 1 torque...)
- Wiring for radiator fan came loose, fans stopped working (took ~3 weeks to resolve due to resulting ECU issues...)
- ECU solder joint (EVAP circuit) damaged during re-flash after flashing to stock for dealer to address radiator fan issue...
- P2400 CEL
- Coolant Leak
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