Golf V R32 :: Won't Start - Six Faulty Coil Packs
Dec 19, 2013
Having issues with some or all of the coil packs going bad? Because it looks like all 6 coil packs on my R32 went bad...
Brief history, my car stopped turning on about a month ago, it was working just fine when one day when going to lunch it stopped wanting to turn on, I had to crank it about 3 or 4 times and it turned on, I went to lunch then got back but when I left for the day (at work) I once again didn't want to turn on and that's about it. I had to tow it home and a couple of friends and I began trying to figure out why we tested the fuel system and electrical. We could get no little to no spark on all 6 coil packs. Ran vag com and nothing would come up, I tested the Crank position sensor and it tested fine but broke the connector so I replaced it with a new CPS. Still, would not start.
So after a couple of days, we decided to try 6 known good coil packs and it fired right up. So yeah I've never heard of all six coil packs going bad at the same time, so what could cause that ? btw soon after the car started, about the 3rd time turning it off and on the starter decided to stop working, I'm thinking it was because of all the times I tried to start it, it was allotted. : thumb down
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I've had my 24V off the road for about a year now working on it. I did some wire tucking and what not, nothing major. Now when I go to start it, it won't start and it will make a popping noise from a coil pack and it starts to smoke.
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2004 TB EXT, 4.2L I-6. Steady misfire on a single cyl. Changed spark plugs, (installed A/C Delco Iridium, 41-103). Fired it up, and miss was gone for about 20 seconds, then came back. Scan turned up P0301, Cyl #1 misfire. I picked up a coil pack, but before installing it, is there any diagnostic tests I can do on the connector, or any tester for coil packs? Not wanting to install this $80 part, (rendering it non-returnable), and have it make no difference. Hoping to at least be able to check for proper voltage supply and trigger signal at coil connector, if possible. Also, any checks I can perform on the injector harness? Thinking it may be one or the other. Or should I swap coil pack to another cylinder, and see if problem moves with it?
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I am trying to get my spark plugs changed and having a hard time trying to figure out how to get the coil packs out. I have done some research already but couldn't really find anything solid for the GS 460 specifically. Many people had useful information on the other GS models (300,350 etc) but since the 460 is not as common, I couldn't really find anything.
I read the guys use pry bars to wedge the motor a little to have extra clearance to pull the coil packs out but it seems the LS has a little more room to work with. On the GS 460 however, it is pretty tight and even using a pry bar I really do not believe the coil pack will have room to be remove completely.
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I've decided to jump on the DIY bandwagon a do my own 60K service. I've found the great write-ups on the oil changes, and even the spark plug removal; but need a detailed explanation or even pictures of how to remove the coil packs to the plugs; I don't want to break anything.
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After changing 3coilpacks on my Passat 04 1.8T soo far finally the last one went out. The codes I got are P0301 (which is misfire cylinder1) and the other code is p0420 which I do not know what it is... I think it might do something with cat or something.
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I have an 02 accent with a 1.5L and it is dropping #2 & #3 cylinders. I changed the coil packs and still had no spark on #2 & #3. I checked the wires going to the coils and had no voltage feeding the coil packs.
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Changed the spark plugs on my 2006 Camry today. Everything went smoothly and quickly except for the fact that I broke all the little keeper clips on the connector plugs that connect to the coil packs. I called my Toyota dealers and one said I had to replace the entire wire harness. The other found the connector plugs for around $8 each. Will the broken clips be a problem with the connectors eventually coming off from vibration if I don't replace them? I'm not sure how to replace the connectors if I go that route. How to go about replacing the connector plugs?
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I have a 2009 f 250 5.4 v8 trition motor my coil packs are slowly failing. I want to replace all 8 of them. Which coils and plugs I am going to need. I guess I'll replace the plugs also, how are the accel coil packs and ngk plugs....
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I have a 03 250 5.4 with 160k. I just recently replaced #4&3 coil packs. Truck was running great again. Then a few days later the truck was running extremely rough and white smoke from the exhaust. I noticed the pcv valve was not all the way in(pretty much out) put it back in and ran fine for two days now running rough every now and then and the pcv valve is making a vibrating noise but stops if I pinch it slightly. I did replace the plugs a year ago.
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I have a 2003 passat 1.8 and I just started having a misfiring problem. I googled it and ran across a 2003 press release that VW had recalled them. I am going to call tomorrow, but I did a little testing myself. Probably not the best thing to do, but this is what I did. I had my wife start the car and I pulled off the coils until I hit the one that didn't make the car shake any more than it already was. It is the second one from the front. I pulled the spark plug out. It is the original, but didn't look too bad.
My question is: How do you test the ignition coil to see if it is faulty or if it could be the distributor? The coil that attaches to the plug looks a little burnt around the rim where it connects to the plug. Its not an expensive part, but I don't want to go buying another one just to find out it is the main distributor or something else...
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I have a 2001 Accent GL DOHC 1.5L (which I believe is the same as your LC model).
One night it started running poorly - missing, bad acceleration - like it was only running on 3 out of 4 cylinders. It was missing whilst idling and would backfire and struggle to accelerate. I took it to a mechanic and they said I needed a new coil pack. So I bought a coil pack from a 2nd hand wreckers that looked pretty good, the car idled better but accelerated worse, like it was only running on 2 cylinders .
So I swapped it back to the old coil pack - and now it wont even start. The engine turns over once then clicks loudly a few times - I think the clicking is from the distributor.
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Last month, I started my gti up and a "Start System Faulty" code appeared. The car started normal and drove perfectly fine.
I immediately took it in to the dealership and they could not diagnose the problem or turn off the damn warning! They released my car and said to come back in a few weeks.
So, two days later, the warning disappeared and I thought it was just an electrical glitch.
Fast-forward to last week, the warning light came back on and took it in again. I suggested that they take a look at the ignition switch and sure enough, they fixed it for me over the weekend by installing a new ignition switch and the problem is gone.
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1999 Jetta 2.0L manual trans
One day out of the blue the car would not crank or start. Checked and found that fuse #14 was blown and would blow the instant another fuse was inserted. Checked all the typical locations for wiring issues usually associated with the comfort module because it had all the symptoms of a faulty module (the power windows did not work and the fuel pump didn't pressurize the system when the driver door was opened, the alarm didn't set, automatic door locks also inoperable).
I checked the dome light, trunk hinges, rubber boot between doors and body and found nothing. Put a jumper wire into the neutral start relay and was able to crank the car. I then replaced clutch safety switch, neutral start relay and installed new (junkyard) comfort module and the car cranked up, started and everything was working normally again...for about 3 weeks. Then it did the exact same thing again. Fuse #14 was blown again and would blow the new fuse as soon as it touched the terminals in the fuse box.
I reinstalled the jumper wire in the start relay in order to be able to drive the car for the last week, and then last night out of the blue the car would crank, but not start. I turned the engine over several times and could hear the fuel pump pumping and even smell fuel, but no start. 3-5 minutes later after random tries to start, the car stumbles to life as if it wasn't getting fuel, and then drove 10 miles home with no issues. I returned the 'faulty' comfort module Monday and got another one but haven't installed it yet because I fear the same thing happening with this one as the other one.
Last night after I got the car home, I plugged in the comfort module and everything worked like it was supposed to. Can a faulty fuel pump damage the control module? I'm trying to get to the bottom of this and fix the problem and not the symptoms so I'm looking into anything that could potentially cause the problem.
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B5 Passat, it has the 2.8 and it has been having moments of shuttering so I did a scan and hit 3 engine falts, I did do a clear and rescan so these are new faults.
3 Faults Found:
17801 - Ignition Coil Power Output 1
P1393 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction
17802 - Ignition Coil Power Output 2
P1394 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction
17803 - Ignition Coil Power Output 3
P1395 - 35-10 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
Right now my guess is the coil pack is going out or loose connection to the coil, this coil is roughly 8 months old so it kinda has me at a loss and hoping its not the coil.
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Just did the trans mount in my car hooked it all back up and "esc faulty traction control" came on in the dash MFI display, esc & steering wheel(airbag?) light in the dash. I scanned it no codes. Is it something that goes off on its own or do I have to disconnect the batt again and some sort of cycle procedure?
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I bought this Escape used in Dec '10 with 29,000 miles. It is now at 36,500 (Sept '11). I have had it in for service 3 times in 3 months.
The passenger airbag seems faulty- if the seat is empty, the light will flip off (meaning airbag is on). If I sit in it, the light will go on and off intermittently. I'm 135 lbs- and the serviceman saw it happen as we drove around- yet when the car was given back to me after a week and a half, they stated they could not duplicate the problem and that no issues were found.
Now, I'm having starting issues. Once over Labor day weekend- I had driven my car, parked it, and went to get in it 5 minutes later- no start. No cranking, no clicking. All lights/radion come on. After sitting for about 20 minutes and attempting to start every couple minutes, it roared to life and was fine. Took in for service, and again- no codes, could not duplicate, so they sent it home.
Car sat for a week (I'm a student- it doesn't get much action except on weekends). Then yesterday, I drove it about 15 minutes, parked, came back 10 minutes later and it wouldn't start again. Again, after about 20 minutes of sitting and attempting to start, it started.
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I recently bought a 1999 VW Lupo (essentially a two door Golf) with 30000 miles on it. My mechanic suspects it sat idle for a long time. Recently the check engine light went on, warning of a faulty idle regulator. What effect would you expect to see as a result ?
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I have been having the dredded EPC light coming on and according to the vag scan its the throotle body. What I need to know is if one off a 2003 2.0 jetta will work on my 2004 2.0 jetta. The number on the side of mine 06A 133 062s is not the same number on the 03. I was told that they must match to work properly.
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Every time I start my Golf there is a beep, the EPC light and ABS light come on and stay on, and the brake warning light starts flashing and continues to flash.
I have had the fault codes read and it came up with the following:
0414 Control unit improperly coded Faulty
0606 Yaw rate sensor Circuit defective.
What these faults actually mean and what might cause them? I'm quite keen to resolve the issue as anything brakes related makes me nervous, plus I do drive the car hard and use the 4Motion system, which I believe utilises the ABS system?
Probably worth mentioning that the car is fitted with a Series 1 Blue Haldex controller, in case that makes any difference?
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'91 Nissan NX 1600.It does not start., No spark from the coil which I've tried replacing, and the wiring tests fine everywhere before that. It's been sitting like this for going on two years, I think.
Background : Right before this started happening I replaced the clutch disk and flywheel, as well as complete timing, sprockets, guides, even the cover. About a week after that the fuel pump stopped, after I replaced that I hear it prime, but now I have the no spark problem.
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