Golf V R32 :: Won't Start - If Trying To Start Getting Low Oil Pressure Light?
Mar 6, 2014
It was -4 F this morning, though the car has been started in colder temperatures recently. It has been a few days since the car has been started but on the first attempt the car ran for a few seconds normaly and then died.
- The engine will only turn over but not start now.
- I get 3 beeps and a low oil pressure message when I try to start the car. (Tried multiple keys)
- Checked oil and it shows over the max a little, though my driveway has a slight slope to it towards the front. (wiped dipstick and got readings multiple times.)
- Only about 2.5k since my last oil change. I am currently at 58k miles.
- Had 40K service done about 7k ago. (New battery was part of the deal)
- All stock except Milltek catback exhaust and some LED bulbs.
Ran into a thread that the guy had checked and replaced numerous parts of the fuel and ignition system to no avail, hope this isn't the case here.
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so my car doesnt want to start so i am going to check a few things.
first how do i check my fuel pressure or the location?
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The oil light on my 2005 Chrysler Town & Country comes on when started when it is cold outside. It stays on until I turn the key off and restart, then it goes out and does not come back on. My mechanic cannot find anything wrong. This only happens in cold weather, not in the summer.
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My '08 R32 with less than 40k mi. will not start. The car ran fine earlier one day, then after it was parked for a few hours the engine decides to stay dead.
It will crank forever until the low oil pressure warning come up, but won't start. I also smell fuel when I crank enough times. It's not the battery, though I had to recharge the battery a few time from all the cranking attempts.
The fuel pump does prime when I open the driver side door and when I turn the ignition on. I disconnected the hose going to the fuel rail, and confirmed there's fuel flow when the ignition is ON. There is fuel in the car, about 1/3 of a tank. I even added 2 gal. of fuel just to be sure I didn't have a bad sender. There's no fault in the VCDS.
Things I replaced so far:
NGK laser iridium spark plugs pre gapped to .032
New coilpacks
Fuel filter
crank position sensor (G28)
My car is all stock minus a Forged intake to my knowledge. I bought the car used, so the previous owner might have APR reflash on the car. However, the day I drove it, I never touched the cruise control buttons that could activated the APR anti-theft.
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Question about the oil light. On a cold start the oil pressure light goes out immediately.
After driving around for a while (engine warmed up) and shutting off the engine for anywhere between 45 to 60 minutes or so and then starting the engine again, the oil light will go out immediately, but then SOMETIMES, pop back on, MAYBE flicker, then stay off. This all takes place in less than a second, almost a microsecond. This is all very intermittent too, No rhyme or reason as to temp or time between starts. Engine is very quiet, except for a COLD start (over night). I use 5-20 and it makes no difference whether using conventional or synthetic.
I change my own oil, but dealer did it once and I still get the same issue. I suspect the sending unit, or is this 'normal'?
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I love my new 2006 Phaeton (white/beige) and have been trouble-free so far for first 2 months of ownership (12,000 miles) but now I get a Spare Tire Pressure Warning every time I start the car, that now stays on when I drive around. I don't even know where the spare tire is! It did just recently get cold in Chicago area suburbs, but I keep my car in the garage at all times.
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Yesterday had a issue with my new truck, (less than 2500 miles), pulled up to a stop sign and the low oil pressure warning light came on and truck just died and wouldn't start back up, checked oil and put some in and it still wouldn't start, called Ford roadside asst. and right before they showed up it started. Still had it towed to dealership and they're still looking at!!! It's got the 5.0
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I have a 2005 Golf GL trim 2L SOVC. For months now the car won't start on the first try. One must let off the key and disengage the starter then reengage. It always starts the second try and never starts the first. Once the engine runs for a few seconds, if you turn it off, then start it again, it immediately starts. It's never a problem en route. Only if you let the car sit for a while, say 8hrs or more, (when the fuel pressure dies) do I observe this "no start on first try" behavior.
I recently replaced the plugs and fuel filter and cleaned the throttle body. It's a little better now. It stumbles like it is going to start on the first try after sitting but doesn't.
I exposed the fuel pump and measured the voltage going to it. When you turn the key to "on" position, the engine computer put's voltage to the pump for about 1.5 seconds and that's it. So while you are cranking I guess it expects that 1.5 seconds of pump operation is enough. I put my fuel pressure guage on the port near the injectors, and, as I suspected, the pressure only builds to about 28lbs. On the second try it gets up to 40. Once running it's about at 45lbs.
Sounds like a firmware bug to me.I'm considering wiring in a switch that I can toggle to deliver more on time to the pump inititally - maybe 3 seconds? Is this normal?
I noticed that when I put the fuel pressure gauge on initially there was zero pressure. Is this normal?
Shouldn't a check valve keep it at pressure? Where is the check valve located? I'm also getting a P0171 code "engine too lean". I repaired a hole in the air hose going from the air pump to the throttle body - still get the code. All hoses look good.
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My car is a 2011 Golf TDI....
Ok so yesterday I was getting onto the highway under normal acceleration and all of a sudden I heard sound that I can only describe as pressure being released. Immediately after, the cars shuts off and is just coasting. I have a standard transmission. I turn the car off, put it in neutral while still coasting, and restart it to see if it will start back up. It works but I have no power what so ever. Like it was in limp mode. So I pull over and turn it off and try to restart again and it just keeps stuttering and not turning over or starting up. I had it towed to my dealer.
So toady being Saturday, the dealer had a half day and didn't really get to diagnosing my car. Well I drove there and talked to the mechanic and he said when he drained the fuel it was clear as water, and that diesel should be yellowish. The service advisor then started asking me if I put gas in it or any additives. I never in my life have used additives and I have every single receipt from the start. He is saying that if they find out its gas, that it will not be covered by warranty. What should I do? Where do I go from here to ready my self to defend I didn't put gas in it.
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Started truck it ran about 10 sec. then quit, low oil pressure came up on the dash will not start now.
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My oil light comes on when I start the car. I thought I needed an oil change so I did that. It still comes on. It came on about 3 days ago for the first time. What's causing it?
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Today I tried starting my car (shortly after I drove it with no problems 2 hours earlier), and when I pushed the start button (holding it down firmly), it made this weird clattering-clicking noise (the dials on the cluster went haywire), but no noises were coming out of the engine, so there was not attempt to even turn the engine (wasn't the grinding noise from engine that you get if you don't hold down the start button firmly long enough). Thought it was the battery so tried to jump the car, but it wouldn't start immediately either. The AC/radio were all on while I was attempting to start the car - shouldn't be the case if the battery was dead???.
After about the 3rd attempt to start the car in the middle of the jump start, the engine started.
Anyways, got home, and then tried starting the car again and no luck. Does this sound like an issue with the battery (lights and AC and radio were all working fine), or perhaps the starter/push button? Has there been any recalls/TSB on anything related for the MKIV R?
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I've noticed that she has to turn over a few more times than normal to start up. I don't have any engine mods and I'm approaching 10k miles. I've found a couple posts where people say their cars are a little harder to start when it's cold out, but I live in Hawaii and the temperature is never below the mid 60's.
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I have 22000 miles and this never happened on the car before wonder if it has anything to do with the recall, had the fuel system recall done about 200 miles ago. Other day after fueling car wouldn't start, also new "feature" to this car. Hope the recall didn't do something bad, I tried to reset it by reseating the cap, but warning comes on as soon as I drive it.
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So driving to work today I noticed my battery light came on..... Well I kept driving only cause I figured if my belt slipped off it would be to late to save it/if it was my temp gauge would start going into the red..... So as I'm still driving it kept turning off and then back on(the battery light) the whole way of a 25min ride.....
Finally got to work popped the hood and belt was in tact and seemed to have good tension... So I don't think it slipped or came off.... And then checked battery just to double check and everything is connected.... Now as we all know are alternators are right under the intake mani so front end has to come off to test it/replace it.....
Also when coming to red lights on the way to work the idle seemed fine never seemed to fluctuate crazy.... I know when my Audi had a bad alternator when I came to stops it about cut the motor off/did if I didn't keep the throttle revving it up but not sure as I haven't been able to test anything yet.
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I have a 2001 GTI VR6 5 speed. It has an intermittent no start. When you turn the key on it will start as long as the EPC light was lit before cranking. If that light does not come on, it will not start. I also can't communicate with the ECU via the OBD2 connector if the EPC light does not come on. So I am assuming that the ECU/ECM is not getting power when this condition occurs. Is there an ECU relay that is possibly out? If so, what is its location?
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I drive a 2012 GTI w/ a stage 2 unitronic tune. My gas light came on today. Naturally I stopped to get gas. As soon as I began pumping the pump clicked off. It took me like 5 minutes to get one gallon of gas in and fuel started to spill out. What this might be ?
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I have an 02 GTI w/ 1.8t and 5spd. I was in the drive through and all of the sudden the ABS, ASR, and seatbelt lights came on and the battery light is randomly blinking. I got home turned the car off and went to restart it and when I turn the key nothing happens. I should also mention I recently have 2 cels for p0701 lean condition and bank 1&3 misfires that developed after I replaced a bad injector. Where do I even start?
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This morning i went to start my car and threw a flashing engine light. common sense says its a misfire. i know it's probably smart to check my spark plugs first but here's my dilemma. if it isn't the plugs and turns out to be my ignition coil, where the hell is that even located? I have an 04 Jetta 2.slow engine
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Car: 2003 Jetta VR6 GLX 24V
Sometimes when I start up my car ( I want to say when cold, but I haven't tried after its warm yet), the coolant light and warning come up. I obviously checked the coolant, and it is a little low. But it's been where it is since I bought the car, and I haven't noticed any leaks. After I turn the car off then on again the light goes away.
The car is running perfectly fine, it's not running hot or cold. Another thing I have noticed is that my fans don't seem to be working. ( I know it's a common problem). But I'm thinking this could be the fact that it's below 0 today.
I haven't gotten it scanned yet, but what's going on; i.e., Thermostat, sensors, fans etc..
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My Daughters jetta will at time no start after it has been locked then unlocked. She told me that if the car doesn't beep when locked she sometimes has the problem.
The dash will light but no crank at all. Could this be an alarm issue or something else? I
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