Golf V R32 :: Wipers Stop While Stopping At Light?
Jan 20, 2010
So i've had the car for what, maybe 16 months now and tonight while the wipers were on s l o w speed, I came to a full stop at a light and the wipers stopped wiping, and then either went into intermittent or rain sensing mode. When I started moving again the wipers starting wiping continuously again. Never knew we had this functionality.
I have to admit I've been a fan of the rain sensing feature and just about never use the low or high speed settings except maybe when it's constantly raining on the freeway. So I guess tonight must have been the first time I've used the low setting while in town and had to make a full stop.
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I have a 2000 Buick Century that only has 70000 miles on it. I have an issue that when I drive the car for a while, the transmission will shift hard after stopping at a light or stop sign. It only does it through the first three gears. If I shut the car off and let it sit for a few minutes and start it back up, it shifts fine through all of the gears. I have not had the change to change the fluid and filter yet. The fluid looks clean and is always full. I have read that there has been a common problem with a pressure control solenoid in the transmission needing replaced to correct the hard shifting. I am not getting any kind of error codes from the PCM, so I am not sure.
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Trying to troubleshoot a very intermittent (has happened on two different occasions during the last 1,000 miles) hesitation from a stop-light. I've been recording engine parameters (Torque application) on both instances as these have been during longer trips after a period of highway driving. 2004 Excursion, 112K miles.
This feels kind of like severe turbo hesitation (4 to 10 seconds trying to start out before it kicks in) but I don't think that's it. The turbo is a new PowerMax turbo replaced 5 months ago. VGT readings seem pretty normal. The EGR valve is new -- the first instance was with the old and the second was with the new. I've also recently replaced the EGR and Oil coolers (before this).
Here's what's interesting in the captured data though... Normally when I coast into a stop-light the indicated engine load stabilizes at about 40-50% and VGT moves to about 65% to 70% at idle. The two different times this happened (actually multiple times at stop-signs/light close to each other over 5 minutes or so for both of these), when I have coasted to the stop, the engine load increases from low values during coast-down (0% during freeway coast-down or 19-30% during other coast) up to 99.6% (or other similar high values) at idle and VGT seems to be full closed at 85%.
There is absolutely no response to the throttle in this situation for 5-10 seconds. I've either been goosing the throttle a bit or putting it neutral and revving it up first to get things going again. When it finally catches and starts accelerating with power, indicated engine load drops to 50-60% again and VGT opens up to 40-60% or so. None of the other parameters I've been capturing seem to read strangely during this that I recognize. No issues observed during cruise and power seems good. No pending DTCs or engine light.
Here's what the data points I'm capturing (once each second):
Boost
Calibration Input Volts
ECT
EOT
Fan RPM
FICM main volts
Fuel Injector pulse width
ICP
ICP Volts
IPR Duty cycle
RPM
Engine Load
MAP
Trans Temp
VGT Duty Cycle
EBP
EGR Commanded
EGR Error
Added today but not captured during these issues yet:
IAT
IAT2
Baro
Accel Pedal Position
Mass Airflow Rate
Mass Fuel Desired
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The windshield wipers on my 2013 es350 are not stopping on the edge. When I checked on a 2015 es300h, the wipers go all the way to the edge. Is this normal for the es350?
Wiper stops here.....
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Well, my saga continues on my intermittent AC problem on my 99 f350 v10. As before, the AC blows cold but mysteriously stops working on occasion when climbing a grade or stopping at a light in warm weather. I bought a gage kit and runs ~ 45/250psi on the low/high gauges. Clutch is stopping and the metal tube from the accumulator tank runs warm when this occurs.
Seems like the problem occurs when the under hood temp reaches a certain level. Thought it might have been one of the switches but the pressure seems to be OK when these problems are occurring. What/how to check to find the problem? some of my thoughts are:
1. Wire a light in the clutch engagement circuit to see if the problem is in the compressor clutch coil not working when powered up or some heat related failure of the wiring continuity.
2. Check the Hi and low pressure switches for continuity when this is happening. to do this I need to know a few things- location of the high pressure switch low press in on the accumulator) and whether the switch should be open or closed in normal operation. Also can the switches be replaced without losing the charge in the system?
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As soon as I start the car the windshield wipers start on their own and wont stop. I diagnosed the relay as my fualt and I was partly correct. I put the new relay and it worked. However I still had the rear wiper motor disconnected. Once I plugged rear motor back in, the front windshield wipers started going on their own and won't stop again. So, what should be next? Motor diagnoses? I can't see any visual water damage in the motor when the cover is off.
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I just recently purchase my first 2012 Prius Three and so far it's been great on gas. However, today I had my wipers on full speed because of the rain here in Northern Cali and noticed that my car was swaying at the stop light. At first I thought it might be the wind but when I turn off the wipers the swaying went away. Turned them on full blast and the swaying came back. Is this normal?
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Over the past week, my engine has stalled numerous times while sitting at a stop light. I simply turn the key and restart the engine and go on my way... until it happens again. FYI - engine is idling between 500 and 600 rpm. I don't know if it's significant or just normal, but when the engine stalls, the red "battery" icon comes on, but goes away as soon as I restart.
In the past few days, I've also noticed my windshield wipers have been very slow, regardless of what position I put the stalk in. Today, there were no engine stalling incidents. However, this morning the wipers were extremely slow when I tested them. Then, this afternoon, everything worked fine! The engine continued to run fine all day and my wipers seem to be back to normal speed!
Does this sound like typical "low left side battery" gremlins, or perhaps the right side "starter" battery? Is it just coincidence that these two symptoms showed up at the same time and are not related? By the way, I believe the left side battery was replaced by the previous owner a year or two ago.
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I started noticing a strange idle when stopping or sitting at a red light. Upon stopping the car idles at around 600, then all of a sudden it jumps to around 1000-1100, and sits there as if I was giving it gas. As I drive off the car drives fine, once I stop again, the same thing repeats. This happen to me 2-3 times already within the past month, I mostly drive on the highway, so that might be a reason I don't notice it often.
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I recently bought a used 2003 jetta wagon with 159k. Is it normal to feel and hear a growling sound when the air cond is running and you stop for a red light. It's a 2.0 automatic jetta wagon. I never had a 4 cylinder automatic car and this is my first VW.
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About a week ago I turned on the Climatronic a/c in my 99.5 GTI for the first time since I bought the car. Everything worked fine until a bug splattered my windshield. I sprayed washer fluid and the wiper moved extremely slowly to the halfway point and then stopped. The wipers have always moved slowly since I got it about 6 or 7k km ago but have never become stuck. I turned off the a/c and let the car sit for a while turned off. When I turned it on again, the wipers worked fine but the were noticeably slower then before.
Cut to a few days later, I turn on the wipers to test it out and it gets stuck again, this time about 3 inches from the bottom. I can hear them clicking as if they are restarting the cycle, but it only twitches.
Cut to now, the wipers try to move every time I turn the key to ACC, as well as twitching when the car starts. When I start driving, after approx. 2 minutes my ABS light comes on and doesn't go away until I shut off the car.
I have provided a video. This is my only car and there's rain coming up in the forecast ...
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Jeep jk with hemi 7.2l manual ... Symptoms of high rpm when stopping before complete stop. And high room when shifting from one gear to another (usually bit drops between shifts). Recently I noticed that this happens only when shifting above 2500 rpm. So if the shifting happens before the rpm reaching 2500 it will be smooth and normal.
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My Subaru Outback is dying on me when I come to a stop and has happened when just idling. I have been told it is the torque converter and replacement is 2 thousand.
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I have a 2008 Pruis that acts like it has a plugged heater core but I wonder if there is more to it. I thought it had air in the system so I drew the cooling system down with vacuum and was able to get another half quart of coolant in it with a radkit plus vacuum coolant filling tool but it did not change anything. At idle there is no heat until you go up a hill at highway speeds when the heat starts to flow. As soon as the engine slows down or shuts off, there is no heat again. I was going to backflush the heater core but after I noticed all the valves and pumps in the cooling system, I stopped because I wondered if there could be a problem with any of those mechanical parts in the heating system. I don't think that there is still air in the system because the engine temperature is good and the coolant level is full when you remove the radiator cap. With the engine idling, all the hoses in the front of the engine are hot including to the heater storage tank. If you touch the aluminum pipes going into and out of the heater core, one is hot and the other is cold. Should my next step be to back flush the heater core?
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I know it seems like everyone's truck tends to have different tolerances when it comes to when it starts and stops regen when it comes to gpl but the last two times my truck has gone into regen it starts at 100% and finishes at 25%. Is it normal to stop regen when it gets to 25% or should it be stopping at 0%. Or could it be that the percentage in my truck is off and it's actually using the gpl to start and Stop? The only thing about that is that forscan says it's supposed to start at 100% which it does so if my percentage is off that would mean it was starting at 75% does it not?
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The vehicle: 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 w/ Z71.
The problem: Steerage issue. No problem exhibited while driving. However, at stop or very slow there is a loss of power steering but only when turning the wheels right. There is also an audible sound when turning to the right. Kind of a whooshing or air expulsion?
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In my 2008 F150 with 108,000 miles, I am having a vibration in the brake pedal. When I am stopping or at a dead stop. I first thought it might be the rotors needing to be turned, but the vibration seems to go away when I turn off the a/c.
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My 2007 elantra has been rumbling when i change gears occasionally and sometimes when stopping at a stop sign the car just dies. The car starts right up though as if nothing happened. It only happens like twice a week but i really want it fixed. I already changed the motor mount next to the engine block on the left. Could it be the motor mount connecting to the transmission?
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2000 Rodeo, wipers work when on, no intermittent control. They just stop where ever they are if you swtich to intermittent control. I've heard this is a module above the glove box that costs about $200. Is it parts on the board in the module that fail so the module has to be replaced, or can I open the module, resolder grounds etc and restore operation? If not, anywhere less expensive than the dealer to get a replacement module?
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I have a 1997 F150 4x4 that the wipers just started going one day when I started it up and won't stop. I replaced the turn signal/multifunction switch and the wiper motor but still same problem. I have heard it is possibly defective GEM.
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Ok, so I have replaced the switch on my windshield wipers brought the car into the shop on several occasions and no one can figure out what is going on. Right now they are Gerry rigged to bypass the breaker so they can at least work. At first they stopped working, they blew the fuse, to make a long story longer, the fuse would blow after every third time the car engine started. So the mechanic gerry rigged the fuse, the alternating wiping wouldn't work anymore, but at least the wipers worked, which in Oregon is a huge issue. Then last week, the wipers would spontaneously every 9 seconds move from resting position to 1/4 of the way up the windshield. That spontaneously stopped after about a week, now when I turn the wipers on they won't stop.
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