Golf V R32 :: While Driving Shudder And Stalling?
Jun 14, 2013
Shortly after 40K service at the dealership, where DSG oil and Haldex oil were changed. My wife who is currently daily driving my R32, and was on a road trip at the time, feels something like she a shudder in the drivetrain and car stalled. She pulled over and restarted car only to hear the metallic grinding noise while trying to move fwd.
Car towed to different out of town VW dealer, who says the "Front Haldex/Transfer case" failed internally, replacing under extended warranty with sealed unit shipping from Germany.
Story smells to me, and I wouldn't be surprised if local dealership drained the oil out of something and did not refill, as this seems like a very rare failure.
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2002 1.8t Jetta Wagon with the automatic transmission. They've had it for about a week now and we've been trying to iron a few problems out. Mostly cosmetic until the last couple days.
The coil pack harness is trash. I bypassed a couple of the extreme cracked wires in attempt to keep it going until the new one comes in hopefully at the end of this week. We put new plugs in but only afterward did we find out that NGK or VW is the way to go. We put autolite iridiums in.
New fuel filter, however, the line connecting the tank to the filter will not click into place completely. We are able to start/drive the car without the line popping off from the pressure, but you just have to tug on it with your hand to get it off, no need to depress the clip.
The car seems to run better cold. Once it is warmed up and you've been driving around town for 10-15 minutes is when the shuddering starts. It ONLY dies when in Drive or Reverse while at a complete stop. The idle drops down to 400 rpm or so, you can't rev the motor/drive. Sometimes it will come back up to normal and you can go, sometimes it will go back and forth but you can't get any power to the wheels. Sometimes it will drop the RPMs and shudder at 400 for a couple seconds then just die. It always starts right up without hesitation. In park/neutral the idle is still slightly erratic, occasionally bumping up to around 1300 rpms for a second or two then back to around 900 or so.
When we bought the car, we test drove it and it was fine. Of course that is how it works out. They drove the car for about a week. In that time, it shuddered and died once, and would occasionally shudder at a stop light but there was no issue driving it or loss of power when accelerating.
What I'm wondering is if we should go ahead and order the R8 coil pack and spark plug kit from HSTuning. I'm hoping that the harness fixes the issue, but if it could be cheap spark plugs or a coil pack going out, I'd like to get it all done at once. My main concern is the possibility that it could be the transmission. The symptoms feel like loss of power, not slipping, but still, I'm worried that maybe it could be the issue.
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I bought a used 2010 GTI with 37k on it. I am loving the ride, more than I even anticipated. It has the DSG, and I enjoy the multitude of ways I can choose to drive this vehicle.
I do have one issue of concern that I would like some feed back on. Occasionally, when driving hard, the car makes a horrible shudder and doesn't accelerate. It's almost as if the vehicle misses a shift and is governing itself quickly and harshly. I haven't had enough concentration to check RPM's when it does it.
It feels horrible, scares me and makes me wonder what I'm doing, what I need to get checked, or if this is something others have experienced.
Pic for good measure.
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2006 Sonata 3.3 liter engine with 123K miles. While driving between 30-40 mph, when I "feather" the gas pedal the car will shudder. It does not happen every time but it usually happens a couple times when it does. I see no change in rpm, transmission fluid is at a good level.
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I drive a 2002 Honda Civic. I was driving home from work one day, traveling about 40mph when the car shuddered, the check engine light came on, and I decelerated to 20mph or so. It then wouldn't go any faster than 20-25mph without more shuddering and revving up past 5000rpm. I am able to drive the last 1-2 miles home at low speed without problems. I am able to drive the 15-20 miles to work in the mornings without issue, even on the highway at 70mph. It has been hot in the afternoons (95-100+) and I wonder if the heat has something to do with it. Also, I have an in-dash DVD unit and the screen turns dim/an odd tint from time to time. It doesn't seem to coincide with the other problems. A repair shop said they think it might be a grounding issue.
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I was driving my car when suddenly I felt a huge shudder and my engine light flashed on. I turned a corner to head into a parking lot and as I accelerated my car seemed to be jerking like it was cutting out. I parked and tried revving it and it sounds all deep and gurgly not smooth. What could be wrong and is it safe to drive the 5 miles back to my house.
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2008 Subaru trebeca suv with only 62000 miles, when going up a slight incline in drive you feel quite a shudder like you were driving over small bumps on the road. This is my daughters vehicle so she phoned about 400 miles from were I live & told me what I said above. I told her it sounds to me like the torque converter is not unlocking. And if it is the converter not unlocking would that be a very expensive repair ?
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I hooked up the boat and went out for a tow. I ended up getting a pretty good vibration and thought maybe it was time for balancing the trailer tires. As it turns out I needed two new tires as they were at the wear bars (cheap crappy bias ply tires) so I ended up buying 4 trailer tire radials and had them balanced.
As it turns out I have what I guess is a shudder at slow speeds and also can feel it at other speeds as well. A way to explain it is that it sort of feels like you are driving over the rumble strips on the side of the road but really small ones.
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My vehicle had a shudder which felt like driving over a rumble strip. It would usually occur after hitting a small bump at around 35 mph and hearing a clunk underneath. The shudder lasted just a few seconds. Checked the whole steering, suspension, chassis, drivetrain, u-joints, rear e-brake shoes etc. Finally found that the RF axle shaft could be moved up and down excessively in the steering knuckle. Removed axle shaft, R&R u-joint, vacuum hub seal and the torrington bearing in the hub. (used to call it a spindle bearing) ...
There was a little bit of wear into the stub shaft where the spindle bearing rides. That removed the play from the axle when it was all re-assembled. I was very happy until about a month later when it started doing it again, but not as bad as it was originally. I think maybe the stub end of the axle shaft needs to be replaced due to the wear in it. I don't want to just throw a somewhat expensive part at it without some info about "superduty shudder".
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So my car keeps just dying while i'm driving..my car was running just fine until i got gas one morning and then started to sputter while i was driving and didn't want to accelerate very well...read a multiple misfire code when my check engine light was on..changed the coil packs and now isn't reading anything but now it takes a lot of cranks to get the car to start and while i am going down the road it will just die...normal engine dying lights will come on the dash when it dies..have changed the fuel filter..checked the catalytic convertor...checked plugs and wires..once in a while i do get a funny gas smell on the outside of my car but it's not leaking anywhere..checked the battery and still does it with a new battery..changed the fuel pump about 3 years ago..
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My wifes 2000 chevy metro is either stalling out or bogging out . But usually happens after a drive on the highway 15 miles or so on a hot Arizona day, then say shut off at a gas station, then, go to restart it and sometimes probs starting, but not always. Then, while driving , it will be fine then stall and fall on its face. You can floor it and it won't go anywhere, but it will idle ok. If its cool outside, no issues. I am thinking O2 sensor or temp sensor. It runs real good otherwise this recent issue.
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I have a Volvo 940 GLE (the second one of this kind I own) Car dies while driving, randomly, with check engine light coming on for a split second and then stalling. Feels as if the engine gets no fuel all of a sudden. Starts up again after 20sec-2,3 minutes, which is EXTREMELY annoying on the open road. Sometimes never happens for days, sometimes happens three times on a short drive.
Also, the car (purchased used) only holds about 7 gallons and has always idled low (runs rich), even though my mechanic couldn’t find anything unusual with the tank itself.
Engine codes that show up after the car stalls:
On socket 6: 214 (Perm. Magnet Generator), 144 (Fuel system load signal)
On socket 2: 221 (Lambda operation), 121 (mass airflow sensor), 131 (Ignition RPM sensor)
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I own a 1999 Honda Odyssey with 130,000 miles. Over the past 6 months I've spent $1600 on routine repairs (brakes, alignment, battery, struts, shocks, etc). Now it's stalling out while driving. The maintenance light flashes followed by a "green key" light, then it stalls out when I'm driving under 30 mph. It does start right up afterwards. The Honda people recommend replacing a worn "ignition lock cylinder" for $700. They ran it for 130 miles and physically banged it on the underside of the steering column to make the car stall out. Should I invest this $700 on this car? Do I need to replace the ignition lock cylinder? I'd prefer to keep the car for another 2-3 years, or do I junk it now before repairs start piling up?
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with about 83,000 miles. Lately it has been having issue with the rpm's going low and stalling out while I'm driving. I've taken it to a mechanic and it has not been resolved. He said it does not need a tune up and it's nothing with my fuel. I've also heard it could be a crank shaft censor but he says no. The check engine light has come on sometimes, very quickly but then goes off.. He ran the code but nothing came up. So then what's causing my car to do this?? While the car is running and I'm in park, the rpm's will go from 2 to almost 0 then back up again. While I'm driving down the road it does the same thing and sometimes it completely stalls out while I'm going about 40mph. So incredibly scary. What this could be so I can take it back and get it fixed!!!! I'm so scared to drive it but I have to get to work.
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My 2003 Acrua RSX, Type S is having a problem that used to be sporadically mysterious, but is now bordering on dangerous. While driving, with the clutch depressed (when I'm about to shift gears or brake), the car will lose power. The first couple of times, this happened only while I was in 2nd gear and traveling < 20 mph, but recently, it happened when I was going 45 mph on the freeway access road, which was concerning because I lose power steering, and was luckily able to muster all of my strength and guide the car to the curb. God forbid it ever happen on the freeway -- I would surely get rear-ended and cause a terrible pile up.
I've taken it to two different mechanics, but neither were able to reproduce the problem, since it happens randomly. One thought it was loose battery terminals, but I checked the terminals immediately after the last stalling incident, and they were tightly secured. The car ALWAYS starts right back up after this happens.
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I am experiencing engine stalling while driving my 1996 Grand Cherokee, after it went low on gas about 6 weeks ago.
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I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 207,000 miles that has recently begun stalling while driving. Typically stalls at rest or when coming to a stop, and for a time it would re-start without issue. More recently it won't start readily after stalling, but will eventually start with enough key-turning persistsence. The check engine light comes on only after stalling and not restarting (but was not on previously), and often shuts off after a few miles of smooth running. I took it to my local mechanic who ran the computer codes and reported a malfunctioning cam shaft position sensor (i question if this was the casuality of other problem), which they thought was the source of the stalling, but after replacement it is stalling more than ever. It seems like the local mechanic group won't diagnose anything in this high mile Jeep without a computer code and I am reluctant to bring it back.
What is the cause of the stalling / starting issue? I may be way off but was concerned about a clogged fuel filter or fuel injection problems.
Vehicle Details : 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L inline 6 207,000 miles. Regular maintenance, most miles highway (2 owners) All parts stock
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Yesterday this thing died on me twice. 30mph to 0 in nothing flat. No problems with stalling before yesterday. It's at the shop now, but they tell me they aren't finding anything and probably won't if they can't get it to die on them too. It had only been driven for about 5 minutes before each occurrence, and each time I had just topped a small hill(if that matters). The second time, it did slightly hesitate to restart and seems to me there was some light smoke from the tailend.
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Recently got my oil change and doing the oil consumption test at the same time. Just put like 200 miles since but this past few days engine stalls. What could be the problem? Already check battery terminals. Could be the battery dying. Its 2009 camry.....
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Recently while driving in good weather, no rain, about 35 mph my 2003 Nissan Maxima stalled. It failed to restart on the first try, but on the second, started right up without trouble and has been fine since. I took it to a garage where they could find no obvious problem. They said I might have 3 things done to potentially address the issue:
1) replace the air filter
2) do an "idle relearn procedure"
3) flush the fuel induction system.
Whether these would be a good idea, or whether I should just ignore the problem?
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I am having a problem with my 1996 jeep grand cherokee. When I stop at a light and I am in drive, it wants to stall. If I am in park or neutral - no problem.
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