I tried to jump start a friend's car today and the two of us could not find the "+" and "-" terminals to connect the jumper cables to. I found the battery, under a plate fastened with about 12 allen bolts (so they can't be under there).
View 8 RepliesSo, I cleaned out my car yesterday and I noticed a bit of corrosion around the terminals on my battery. I just wanted to know if it is actually bad and how I should clean it.
View 11 RepliesInstalled new alternator cleaned terminals car started charging one week later battery died changed battery cleaned all grounds going to battery checked all connections coming from battery to alternator car is still not charging what should i look at next?
View 1 RepliesI acquired a 2000 Eclipse from a friend of mine. Within 24 hours of having the car, it died, and I got a jump. Went to get the battery tested, the charge was around 55% and the guy told me that he could not test the alternator because the battery tested bad, but he got out a multimeter and told me that it was only outputting around 12v, and said that was all he could do.
The battery was brand new (replaced just before I got the car), and the alternator was replaced in January or February according to the previous owner.
I've been able to take the battery out and throw it on a charger, but for what it's worth the terminals on the car are in very poor shape. Rusted out and seem very "finicky", even if they are installed nice and tight, sometimes it still won't supply power to the car and I have to adjust them. Obviously this might indicate that replacing the terminals would solve my issues, however, the alternator output should test fine then, yes?
Running my fog light setup and stereo make me what to get something like this with all of the wires in the battery.
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The terminal (+) on the passenger side battery broke, and I see is a 1 piece cable and terminal all together.
Where to get that cable on how create a new one?
So the other weekend I hooked up to my buddys landscaping trailer, everything was fine until I plugged in the harness, No Lights...no big deal cuz it wasn't much of a drive, but I gotta haul a boat tomorrow a little ways and Id like to be legal.
I need cleaning my trailer plugs. What is the best way to clean the terminals on the small 4 prong? The big plug is fine, just a little dirt inside the cover, but I am still going to clean the contacts and put di-electric grease on them.
No special extraction tools are required, just a small jeweler screwdriver.
Push the screwdriver into the back of the connector, to push the Red terminal locking bar loose, then extract from the front.
Searched and found you tube video to get battery out but doesn't work on my fob. Mine slides open and once opened can't find battery, Vw shop if closed, can't lock or unlock doors?
View 6 RepliesSo my car just plain won't turn over. The battery is good, however the weird thing is, it's orang even click when I try to turn it over.
View 3 RepliesRemoving the negative battery cable piece that connects the cable to the terminal. Where I can get the screw that tightens the connector around the terminal.
View 4 RepliesI am new to the R32 but I have a 2nd owner 60k 2004. The battery keeps draining, put the new one in and it was good for a day. If you jump it, it will work for about 2days and then it is drained down to 3 to 4 volts. No lights or readout on gauges. I am stumped.
View 16 RepliesIm gonna move my battery to my trunk and i was woundering if their is any DIY on here. also what gauge wire did you use for your power cable.
View 20 RepliesI've spent 1 hour and can't find a video. Every video is the wrong key style. It's a 2013 GTI
View 3 RepliesThe other day i started my car after school and about two minutes after the car started the battery light came on. A little bit later, the gauges went to zero but the car was still running, On my way home from school, it did it again twice then the battery light came on and stayed on. I got home and tried bringing the car to autozone and all the lights on the dash went dim and the car slowly died.
View 13 RepliesI recently installed an odyssey pc925 in the trunk of the R and now I'm hearing an RPM dependent whine. I actually happen to have the same head unit (Pioneer AVIC Z1) but I don't have any RCA cables hooked up, so I don't know what could be causing the whine.
View 19 RepliesOn my MKIV Jetta the wire going to S177 is getting super hot an melting my fuse box, an I am talking from the time I start my car to pop my hood the fuse box cover will burn your hand. I used a voltage meter an it reads 14v but the wire running from the fuse box to the alt gets super hot, an it only gets hot on the side of the fuse box. Could it be a bad alt?
View 24 RepliesMy car has the original battery and it hasn't given me issue. Even a few weeks back when most of the country was really frozen and the car was parked outside, it started fine.
Last week after a work day in the parking lot, she was dead-dead. No dome light, no cluster, no lock LED. After 5 minutes tethered to a friend's battery via jumpers, it quickly showed interior electricity but the starter strained. 5 minutes more and the car started like nothing happened. Last weekend after a movie, the car was dead-dead again. I opened the door to see if I could hear the starter to determine how dead it was and the dome/cluster lights came back and it started fast.
The car sat for 36 hours or so and started fine, even after pretty substantial temp drops. Got around town for the past 2 days, no issue.
Today the car was dead again. Jumped it off my Mk2 and went on my way. It started fine and got me to Advanced Auto where their battery tester read 400 CCA and their info showed spec was 430 CCA. They didn't want to sell me a battery yet and suggested an overnight trickle charge and to monitor the issue.
If it was just a dead battery requiring a jump, I'd replace it. But the other oddities + the seemingly good test #'s makes me wonder what else I'm seeing.
So I've found a lot of guides around here on how to install an amp/sub in my gti (golf) but I'm having some trouble understanding how to run the power from the battery to the amp without the amp constantly being turned on and draining my battery.
Currently, i have everything but the power itself setup and ready to go, i have my 4 gauge power cable running from the engine bay through the firewall and to the back of my car where the amp will be. The amp came with a fuse to put near the battery, but I think I would need some sort of on/off switch to actually kill the power to the amp. I read that this is called a relay switch or something, but exactly how to install this into my current setup.
My battery frozed because I never take it and it just doesn't charge enough when I do.
Now I took it in, charging. When I took it in it was in good condition, no cracks, no frost/ice
Now, after about 1/2 hour of charging it's all frosted and the connectors of the battery also...it is inside in my room at about 19C and charging at 6 amps.
So I went to put my R32 back on the road yesterday, it has been garaged since November. Over the winter I had gone out to start her every 2-4 weeks. She would start right up all winter. 2-3 weeks ago I went out to start her and she started right up! Then last night, I went to go start her for her maiden voyage of 2015, and boom dead. What would cause this or if I should be worried?
I would let her run for about 20 minutes when I started her each time this winter, the previous successful start was no different.