Golf V R32 :: When Turn The Key Extremely Long Crank To Turn Over?
Sep 1, 2012
so all of a sudden when I turn the key it seems to have an extremely long crank to turn over, almost like im holding it down to long, i can turn it quick and let it go and it will catch, hold it longer than normal and let it go and it will still catch...took it to the dealer and had them scan the car but there are no codes/faults coming up......its been doing it for a week now and today it won't start at all, it just keeps on cranking but won't turn over but yet I still have codes or faults....battery is good cuz I had it tested as well.
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Ok. So. 2005 excursion v10 270k miles. Never ever had an issue starting. Today it was about 30 degrees in Detroit. Had to crank for about 4 seconds. Usually it turns over within one second of cranking. So I get to work and hook up a fuel pressure tester to it. Got to 35psi while running, upon shutting off it dropped to 0 within 30 seconds. I have no codes. And absolutely no drive ability issues. No gas smell. And I'm really hoping its just z fuel pump check valve cause then I can just prime it by doing key on key off then crank...also hoping not injector cause I won't be able to pull the injectors till Sunday snd I really don't wanna hydro lock my motor >.< best way to test injector/fuel pump valve? I like to fix issues as soon as they pop up. Wanna get my v10 to 400k.
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A month ago I got into my truck in the morning and when I turned the key to Run everything lit up like normal and after the glow plugs warmed up, I turned the key and there was about a two second delay between me turning the key and the engine cranking over.
The next couple times I tried starting the truck that same morning I had to try to start it a couple times because it wouldn't try to crank over the first couple times but it would always eventually start.
It's been continuing to give me problems but never stopped running once it was started and then this morning I tried starting it for 45 minutes with no luck.
What I have tried so far is:
Resetting batteries
Jumping the truck
Checked to see if the starter is getting power. ( I put wire testers on it while someone else started and I didn't get a good reading even when it did start. New starter was put in 9 months ago.)
I also made sure wire going to starter wasn't corroded
Battery terminals are also not corroded
Checked fuses
Tried starting truck with fan clutch disconnected
Cussing at it
Tapping starter with a hammer while trying to start it
Also, everything sounds perfectly normal when I turn the key, it just doesn't even try to turn over.
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Yesterday driving on the highway, i hear a sudden "clank" and out of the corner of my eye i see my key turn itself to the off position. which i think is really strange... my rpms went to 0 and everything died.
I pulled over, put it in park. I tried to start it but the key wouldn't turn cause it locked. So I took it out and tried again. It started just fine.
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So, before we diagnose further, i have my fuse #43 pulled because that has been the only thing that somehow magically makes my car run when its not plugged in. I believe I've been dealing with a bad distributor and haven't come up with the funds yet to mod it for a v6 mustang coilpack.
BUT as the title describes, this just started happening today. The cluster wont turn on, fuel pump is cranking over, and the starter will whine as it cranks but no spark. Is the distributor getting that bad or am i looking at something worse?
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This morning when trying to leave for work, my prius refused to turn on. When you press the brake so you can press the start button, the brake feels extremely hard, almost like it doesn't want you to press it. The light on the start button becomes orange after a pressing the button once. And on the dashboard screen (I don't know what call it on a Prius) in the very bottom right corner, a red notifications light flashes very quickly, so quickly that is hard to tell what it is, but by staring at it for like 30 seconds it looks like the symbol of a car with a lock attached to it. I may be wrong though. My Prius v is a 2012 model, trim three, and it has a little over 60,000 miles on it. I also have a prepaid maintenance through the dealership. I don't even know where to start.
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So ive had a starting issue in the R32 for quite some time now. With waterfest approaching and the new S3 going into production that i ordered, it has come time to finally fix it. I have taken in to many dealerships and very talented techs, and no one has any idea. The car seems to crank for a very long time or start right up and then just completely stall and die. The second time i start it, it starts completely fine like nothing ever happened. This only happens when the car sits for a few hours. It has never done it if the car has sit overnight or during the cold months. It has to be warm and sit for a specific amount of time. Its like it catches the car transferring into a cold start but not fully cold yet, if that makes sense. Also i am now noticing a small squeak each time it starts, like a belt. I have replaced the fuel pump/spark plugs/coil packs. Nothing has changed. We thought maybe a stuck injector but were doubtful as its not constant. Im debating a cam position sensor just to see if thats the issue. There is no CEL or any codes.
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I was going to post this in the technical forum, but going by the amount of replies, this forum seems to have much more traffic. Anyway, my car has random long crank issues. It usually happens when it is really cold or if the car has sat for a day or more. I will have to hold the key over for 5+ seconds, but as soon as I turn the key back and crank again, it fires right up.
I have replaced the battery and tested it and the alternator, replaced the CTS (green top), not that it's relevant, but I just replaced the thermostat, housing and all seals, no CEL. Any other things I can check?
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Last night at 2am and it was about 10 degrees out (I say the temp because it might matter?) I started my car, let it warm up to normal running standard and backed up. My car moved backwards but the wheel would not turn at all. I pull forward into my parking spot and noticed that the wheel is extremely hard to turn left or right... almost impossible.
I check under the hood and noticed that my car was leaking something onto the group but it was dark and I couldn't quite see what it was.
Checked this morning and I found that my power steering fluid was completely empty. I had a half bottle in my trunk and put it in my car, then turned my car on. All of a sudden I noticed that the fluid is leaking onto the ground. Not really leak, more like a slow/medium pour and the wheel still wouldn't not move.
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My steering got real "heavy" almost as if I had no power steering so I replaced the power steering pump. The steering got a little easier but is still very stiff. It's extremely hard to turn at low speed just off idle...I have to rev the engine a bit to get it to turn.This is on my 1999 7.3 f350...I've ran 33" and 35" tires on it it's whole life and this is the first PS pump I've replaced since 1999...never replaced the steering box.
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I own 2013 Mk6 GTI. I am having to over crank the engine for a period of 8 seconds or so before the car starts, especially after it has been sitting for a few hours. My thought was a faulty check valve in the fuel pump. I have heard that our fuel filter has a built in pressure regulator that may get stuck open for whatever reason and that may also cause a long crank time.
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I just got a new switch from the dealer, only rear fog control (don't have OEM LED's yet), and I want to turn to the right one position, but the HID's come on, and no city lights. What am I missing?
I have a VCDS... [URL] .....
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Why the paddles were on the steering wheel or, more specifically, why they'd move along with turning the steering wheel. It sometimes makes it hard to downshift going into a turn or upshifting coming out of out a turn, especially if you don't use the paddles a lot.
well, today, I got to drive one of these and the paddles are in a fixed position. it's MUCH easier to shift knowing where those paddles are at all times when driving faster than you're supposed to. of course I was doing a little spirited driving. downside to that car (only a little) is that it's LOUD. you like the sound of an R?
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I would like to start off by saying I am new to this forum. I bought a 2005 Jetta GLI a couple of months ago and from the first day I noticed that occasionally when I would lock it with the alarm, the right turn signal would stay on. It was not much of a problem as I would just press the lock on the remote again a couple of times to turn it off. Lately it has become more frequent and annoying. I have to wait up to an hour so I can finally turn it off through the remote. I was thinking the relay probably.
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I have a 2004 auto honda accord 4cyl. When I turn the key to turnon my car it takes a couple of seconds longer than it use to, to turn on. Sometimes it doesn't start at all,until I stop and pump the gas brake. This seems to do the trick, the two or three times this happened. My guess is that the gas isn't getting through as it should.
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Driving my '05 V8 around yesterday, I noticed a driveline bind like I get when making a long, accelerating left turn. Only this time, it was when I was going straight. It mostly happens when accelerating, right at a gear change. I find myself having to steer to the right to correct, then the bind, and the truck snaps to the left. I read up on the stepper motor issue on the FAQ's and it sounds like this could be a transfer case issue as well. I don't have a VAG-COM, so I can't scan for a code. I have checked all air pressures, and they're good. I have not noticed any abnormal tire wear, either.
I'm still getting a vibration/noise in the driver's foot well when feathering the throttle between 2500-3000 RPM, right at highway speeds, and it's enough to make you crazy. Dealership had the truck for over 30 days investigating this and blamed it on a bad tire. Two tires were replaced and put on the front. The noise is still there.
I'm also still getting what can best be described as a chain dragging noise coming out of the left side of the truck, apparently from the front end. I can hear it when driving with the windows down, up to about 35 mph, when wind noise masks it. The noise does not change at all with speed - it doesn't get louder, faster, or change pitch.
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We have already dumped $800 into this problem at the dealership. I should have just come here, to begin with. Here's what happens. When we make a long turn at around 40 mph the engine will cut out and the wheel slippage light comes on. The wheels are not slipping and this only occurs during long slow turns. Very odd... The dealership has no idea and has already ripped me off once.
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I own a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2006 V8 4.7 with 133,000 miles. This week I went to a Quick Service Oil Change , after receiving an oil change they informed me I needed a Differential Fluid Change , that I "should have " had one at my last visit and couldn't wait any longer. After receiving the two , I left and not even fifteen minutes later , I attempted to use my breaks approaching the end of the highway.
Instantly the car started making an extremely long banging / thumping sounds along with the a lot of shaking and the car proceed to dead right there. I got it towed home , the company is supposed to send some one to come do a once over. What it could be? As sad as it sounds, I have a feeling they will do a look over and claim they don't know what is wrong or that it isn't there fault in any way.
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99 Saturn SL2 will turn over but not crank. No fire to the plugs,,,,,,,change out the crankshaft positioning sensor, removed and cleaned ignitions module and coil pack, still wont crank and still no fire to the plugs.
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Last fall I began to have intermittent problems getting my Solara to turn over. Most of the time I just turn the key and it starts. Once in awhile I turn the key and it won't crank. I brought it out of winter storage and it worked well for about a week, but today my wife had it do a no start twice. The only way to get it going is to turn the key many times and eventually it begins to crank and then start. Note: all of the lights on the dash do illuminate.
Tonight I took it over to AutoZone to have the battery checked for a dead cell, and everything showed up OK. I have already cleaned both battery terminals. I am thinking that the ignition switch may not always be making contact. Is it an easy job to just replace the ignition switch? Any security problems to anticipate?
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I have a 07 toyota avalon that will not start. About a week ago my wife goes to start the car and nothing. She got a jump and it worked fine for a couple of days. Then she was driving on Oct 25th and the car died out, so due to the battery being less than 6 months old the next step was the alternator. Had the alternator tested and it had to be replaced. We replaced it and it still will not turn on.
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