So I drive a 2008 R32/U.S. spec and I was in neutral when I pressed the throttle and it would not rev over 4000 rpms and was wondering why??
View 24 RepliesI have a 2011 GTI 6MT, APR tuned. I am unable to rev beyond 4000 RPM in neutral, or in 1st with clutch pressed. Parking brake on/off doesn't matter either. I don't rev my engine at stop lights or anything stupid like that, I just found this out because a member on here suggested that I rev the engine up to test for an issue with something else, and I found this 4000 RPM limiter. Is this normal?
View 10 RepliesI've had a weird problem pop up within the past few weeks. My engine seems to have a noticeable whine above 4000 RPMs. It sounds almost like a supercharger whine, but my engine is completely stock. Possible problems I found online include exhaust leak, vacuum leak or tensioner issue for the belts.
Another issue I have had is that whenever shifting into second gear, I have some difficulty getting it into second gear. It makes a scraping sound as though the clutch is not disengaged all the way. On occasion, I have also had the shifter kind of pop second gear out when continuing onto third or even feel like it is rejecting second gear sometimes. A friend of mine told me that the scraping sound is normal and, "that's just how manuals are." Doesn't seem normal to me especially since it is every time I shift to second gear.
My VR6 is making a ticking sound when i accelerate, between 2800-3100, then it dies down a little and then gets loudest at about 3600-4000. The noise stops at exactly 4000rpms every time. Here is a sound clip of what the noise sounds like... you can hear it best in the last 15 seconds or so in the video. Maybe its the timing chains...
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Ok, driving home tonight from boarding (semi hard driving) car started running and shifting weird, loss of power, weird shifts in drive. At first red light I could hear a sucking sound when the throttle was pressed,or downshift tranny in manual mode. If you put the car in neutral going down the road and stab the pedal about the third time throttle will maintain 3g rpm. Babied it home, popped the hood blipped the throttle and there's def. a huge sucking sound coming from engine bay. I lightly sprayed intake/vacuum hoses/airbox etc with starting fluid and no change in idle. cant see anything loose. WTH?
View 24 RepliesI'm curious, If I'm rolling in neutral at say 5mph and blip the throttle just a bit why do the revs shoot up on their own and then rev hang before dropping down again?
View 2 RepliesHave a 2001 wolfs-burg 1.8t, has about 220k miles on it, i know, its a lot. Right now, the check engine light has been on for a few months and the idle is very weird. It goes up and down in neutral from 800-1300 rpms and sometimes i smell gas. Also the triangle with an '!' and circle around it yellow light comes on some times now. I heard it could be MAF or a vacuum leak. A mechanic is going to check it out soon...
View 10 RepliesWhy does my C6 shift at 4000 RPM when the throttle is open? My motor produces peak torque at 5000 RPM, and peak HP at 6500 RPM.
I would like to have the lower gear until I exceed the peak torque at least.
I've noticed something new on my R32 recently. If I let the car sit in neutral with the motor on it's rpms will start to climb slowly. Normally it idles at around 800 rpm but when this happens it will climb to around 1200 rpm and stay there. Usually it takes a couple of minutes but you can slowly see the tach climbing. Also, you can feel the engine slowly revving as well (can hear it).
Now this doesn't happen all the time. I've only experienced it a few times in the past couple of weeks and only seems to happen if the car has been sitting idle with the motor on for at least 10 minutes (it happens when I've been at sonic waiting for an order). I can bring the rpms back to normal if I rev the car up to around 3.5k and let the motor settle back down to idle. What is causing this?
2006 Kia Sorento Auto Transmission, Appx. 106k miles. My wife's car so I don't drive this very often. However, on the last trip, I noticed that it would stay in a particular gear longer than (I think) it should. The RPM's will go up to maybe 4000 or so and stay there for a while even if I let my foot off the gas before finally kicking into overdrive or the next gear and back to a comfortable cruise. I notice this mostly happened when I was going highway speeds and either passing someone or going up a hill. I can't think of the last time the transmission fluid was changed, so I'm thinking that may not be a bad place to start...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2011 f150. I go to put it in reverse no problem after I'm done backing up and put it in drive. The truck does not go anywhere but it will race up to about 4000 rpm without even having my foot on the throttle. Put in park then back into drive same thing happens. Put it back into park turn the truck off start it again and no problems. It drives just fine. I've had it to the dealer they say it is not throwing any codes so there is nothing they can do about it.
View 4 RepliesI have a '96 Saturn SL with a 1.9 SOHC. I recently removed the engine and transmission to change the clutch. I also changed the timing chain guides, the valve cover gasket, the timing chain gasket, oil pan gasket, front and rear crank seals and motor mounts. After I put it back in, it revs to 3500-4000 rpms and is very rich (so rich it smokes). I replaced the throttle position sensor since it had a crack at the plug and to see if that was the problem. I have looked at everything again and nothing is jumping out at me.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2006 chevy malibu 2.2 ecotec 4 cyl with ~130,000 miles and i am experiencing the following symptoms:
Car will not rev past 4000 RPMs or go over 70mph. I do have a check engine light with the following two codes: P0068(throttle position) and P0420(cat efficiency)
My question is instead of just replacing the cat where can i take my car (i live in tulsa, ok) to have the cat and the sensors checked before they are written off as bad?
I just installed a boost gauge and drove the car a little and this is the readings I get. It starts off with 20 inHg and to normal street driving it goes up to 0 and down. However when I pushed it a little, the maximum reading I got was 11-13PSI (High RMP-almost redline). I am a noob in this boost department so Is this readings really accurate or is there something wrong? Recently i had some transmission work done. And since then the gas pedal feels heavier. I was convinced that it is from the new bushings but I feel like this is boost related. Because at 4000 RPM sometimes It suddenly looses the boost (Kick).
View 5 RepliesI am hearing a rumbling noise when I hit 4000 rpms on all gears worst in 2nd and 3rd.... I just recently replaced the timing belt, TBA Done, valve cover gasket, and passenger side axle (through raxles). Anyways I started hearing noise after those repairs, my mechanic has gone through all the work recently done and cant find the problem..... We replaced the tranny mount thinking it was that, but no luck.... I have not lost boost, and noise starts 4000k and goes away at 4700k No codes are flashing.
View 5 RepliesSo,I have a mk4 GTI vr6 . I've got an idle that moves about 25 rmps up and down. As well as the throttle hesitation between 2.000 and 3500 rpms only at mid throttle. Has a kinda new maf. That I cleaned. clean THrottle body kinda new coil pack and wires , new plugs. Tried a lot it all worked but it's still there.
View 11 RepliesYesterday I was driving my R spiritedly (the usual...). I accelerated up close to redline and was just about to shift up when something happened in front of me (I forget what, lane change, something like that) so I let the gas pedal snap back up. I didn't touch the brake pedal at all.
What surprised me was the tach fell off almost like the car was dead. My expectation is that momentum and the car being in gear would cause the RPMs to decay slowly, just as my speed decayed.
Do you think the DSG plays a role here? Did it engage the clutch because of the 'panic' lift of the throttle? It didn't put me in an unsafe condition or anything, it just surprised me as I'd not seen it do that before.
Is this normal for the Camry? When you're flooring the car besides the typical roar I hear like a small high pitch noise, it's gone once I let go of the gas. I tested it & start to hear it at about 4000RPMs I believe. Recorded it on video but you can't hear it at all on video.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1990 Lincoln Mark VII, black on black, basically one owner, excellent condition... except one problem. While driving the car my speed dropped to 40mph, while my RPMs rose to 4000. Upon checking I found the plastic clip, which holds the linkage from the transmission to the accelerator had snapped. I replaced the part and still have the same problem...is my transmission smoked or is there an adjustment?
View 4 RepliesMy hybrid has been a great car, owned 3 years. Now have problem: runs great but if going higher speed 65 and pulls hill needing to kick in to 4000rpms it dies right away says high temp engine but does not smell hot or need water. Let it sit for 15 minutes (even though will start right away but might keep dying unless sits). Will run fine unless hits higher rpms then dies again. 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid...
View 5 RepliesI've got a misfire problem with my Focus. It started about a month ago and did not trip a code until last week. It stumbles on acceleration between 2,000 and 4,000 rpms. It is only a slight stumble and although noticeable, it does not impede driveability much. Last week I was able to get it to finally trip an OBD code. P302 - Cylinder 2 misfire. I changed the plugs and wires with no effect. I thought I had it narrowed down to the coil or injector until my wife noticed a new wrinkle.
Under normal driving conditions the misfire is annoying, but my wife found that if she turns on the A/C, it is undriveable and will not accelerate past 30 mph without some patience and a neck brace for the bucking. My first thought was the A/C compressor was freezing up. I turned off the A/C and left the blower on and it would not stop missing. I turn off the blower and it smooths right out to the annoyance I described first.
Right now I drive the car without A/C and blower whenever I accelerate. If I'm going a steady speed, all is well and I can run the blower and A/C.