Golf V R32 :: Weird Idling - Drops To About 500 Then Up To 1000
Sep 7, 2015
Car started idling weird last night. Drops to about 500 then up to 1000, thrn down again. CEL has been on for over a month but has not affected driving. Engine shakes and doesn't sound normal. I was told by mechanic CEL was caused by a vacuum leak, but he didn't have the smoke machine to pinpoint the leak. That was over a month ago and I haven't had the chance to go back. What are the first things I could check for besides the vacuum leak?
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My car is idling at 1000 rpm for a few minutes when I start it, why? Just started a few days ago...
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So my jetta is 2001 i believe and idleing like its got major breathing problems, it goes from 700rpms to 1500 in cycles and sometimes dies out all together. I thought it was some kind of vaccum leak and had a few pipes in the engine bay replaced but it didnt fix it. Its also missing a muffler so its really load and annoying, especially when im at inn n out in the drive through lol. Other than that, the car doesn't seem to be running that bad but the check engine light is on as well as the traction light comes on sometimes for no reason.
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I recently noticed my 93 accord idling between 1,000 and 2,000 going up then down up and down when the car is in park but when i shift it into gear the car idle goes down to 700 but after driving i shift the car back into park the idle goes back up 1,800 rpm levels off than comes down to 1,000 rpm and i know this idle is too high because it cause my fans to come on sooner and more frequent its like im on the gas when I am not.
I did some research and came back fit fast idle thermo valve so I changed this valve twice and it still does the same thing i have no coolant leaks and no intake work was done so I don't think its a vacuum leak cause it only does erratic idle in park but in gear its fine so this is a puzzling one also I changed thermostat and flushed cooling system followed by a bleed of all the air out of the cooling system now on youtube they call this a hunting idle and is very notorious on 90-93 accords also when I drive down the road and let off the gas it lets of this high pitched whining noise sounds like a valve is getting stuck open.
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Earlier this winter and last year, the forum had discussed the occasional fast idle in the 3.6L. Symptoms include the engine idling at 950-1000 RPM and the car feeling like it wants to surge forward. I had the problem twice during heavy snowstorms in February, but nothing really since...until this past week.
The weather here in Chicago has been in the early 90s and I've had the AC cranked. At the same point, I've had the fast idle event occur at least 5-6 times in the past week. Almost every time it has occurred while moving in very heavy traffic. Have others seen something similar in very hot weather?
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Noticed this morning I was idling at 1000 rpms and was wondering if that's normal or a little high?
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I have a 2009 Corolla and anytime the car is idling and it drops below 1000 RPMS there is an extremely annoying ticking sound, it goes away when I put it in Neutral or the AC is on because it idles higher.
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I have an old (fourth generation before 2005) and low performance bmw 316 at its 40 000 km (its been in garage for some time after it's done 19 000, then i bought it, so everything rubbery is problematic), i feel like it burns more fuel then it should considering its performance , since its almost 20 sec. from .naught to 60 , it has a more noticeable engine braking compared to my 2005 passat 1.6 (almost twice as effective), and a higher fuel consumption, when i stop the engine when idling, the rpm needle (or whatever it is, not a native speaker) drops to 0 immediately like in a millisecond or so.. no inertia no nothing, oil and everything is regularly checked up but i think there is something deeper going on.
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With the cold weather arriving I've recently noticed that when I have the heater on it does fine while I'm going down the road. However when I idle at an intersection the blower still works but the heat drops off.
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We have a sled dog team and purchased a 2012 GMC Savana, pulled out the seats then added wire dog kennels to transport them. This question involves air-conditioning since we don’t want hotdogs. Traveling on the highway during the summer in 90 degree plus weather the air conditioning works fine and cools to 35 degrees plus or minus out the vents (We have a thermometer on a vent). When we stop at a rest stop to potty the dogs we leave the engine running and the air conditioning on to keep them cool.
Almost immediately the air blowing from the vents starts rising to 70 degrees. My 2012 Ford Explorer does not have this issue and holds a steady cool temperature while at idle. Our dealer added dye found a leak and it was repaired so the system is topped off and the problem has persisted. Where to look next such as failed switches or compressor problems and what a dealer needs to do to make a repair. They feel the air conditioning is preforming well.
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I have a 2009 Santa fe 3.3L V6 (live Montreal, Canada), since the past week when I start it up, I've noticed that after 1 minute or so while the it is idling my rpm's drop from 1000 to about 650 for split second and it seems to want to stall. The same thing happens when driving for a a small distance when ever I have to make a stop my Santa fe rpm's drop (split second) so low it seems to want to stall. Could it be related to Throttle Sensor Position?
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I have a 2013 Corolla S. I notice when I let the car idle for like 5-10 minutes the Average mpg readout drops to around 22 mpg(in city while driving it is usually at 25). Why is this?
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My tachometer hangs out around the 600 RPM spot when I first start my truck, but lately it will end up dropping to zero when idling, and then bounce up to about the 200 RPM point when accelerating. Its not the Cam Positioning Sensor (I had that happen with my 99 7.3) and this truck runs great. I am thinking it could be at the tach.
Question is: Where does the Tachometer signal generate and does the PCM do anything with it before it sends the signal to the Tachometer? The reason for focusing on the Tach is since the engine runs and idles fine, then that tells me the PCM is receiving the correct signal from the engine and making changes accordingly. I read about a 5.4 gas engine with rain issues, but the only issues going on here is extreme cold (tonight, -15). I keep the truck garaged and when I go out, it is for purpose and then return home to a heated garage.
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[URL] .... I reviewed the thread but my issues happened all throughout my drive back.
The car started to "buck" between 500-1000 rpm while in 1st gear. Randomly in 5-6th gear it did the same thing ( Car felt like it wanted to shut off in the middle of driving). I also smelled a horrible petrol scent when stopped at a red light. The car never totally died, but it felt like it wanted to the whole time.
What could be the issues? Coil Packs? Bad Gas? Belts? Battery?
My car just had an oil change with amsoil and new vw oil filter. New spark plugs in the summer, fuel filter changed, and rear diff fluid changed.
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When stopped at a stop light or sign my car will start to idle at around 1000rpm. This problem is intermittent and does not seem to change with water temperature (ie. being warmed up).
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I do what's written in the book (hold brake, turn ESP off, S-mode) but when i press the throttle I cannot go over 1000-1100 RPM - after a slight vibration the clutch seem to disengage and the engine goes idle. What am I doing wrong or is my version without LC?
The car is 2009 Golf 6 1.4 TSI 160hp DSG.
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OK, I'm coming to the end of my first month of ownership. Have put on about 1,000 miles (need to drive this thing more - it's so much fun!)
Anyway, once the car is warmed up - I come to a traffic light and sit at idle. Idle starts off evenly at about 700 RPM. After a minute or so, it seems to jump up to about 1,000 RPM. Can feel it "pull" a little. After a bit of time at 1,000 RPM, it seems to drop back to 700 - but not all the time.
Mentioned it to the dealer and got a response like, "they have these things cammed". I don't think it's a cam issue. Just wondering if this is normal behavior or if there is an adjustment or part needed.
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I have a 2004 VR6 GTI and it's burning around a quart every 1000 miles. I understand that it could be the notorious piston ring issue, but I am running heavyweight oil and it still seems to be burning. I'm currently running 20w-50 (That is what the previous owner was running and I figured I shouldn't switch it up). There doesn't seem to be a leak either... Are any additives worth a shot?
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I have a 2012 R with 85,000 miles, APR chip running 93 octane with a HPFP and VWR cold air intake. I was driving my car today (slow driving on highest) and all of a sudden I felt no turbo boost, and heard a weird sound whenever I hit the gas. Car moved but would not get above 3500 rpms and couldn't really get past 60 mph. Again, absolutely no boost (I have a boost gauge as well to verify).
About to drop off the car at a shop but had a couple questions:
1. If the turbo is blown, can I still drive the car to the shop (not too far) without damaging the engine itself?
2. if the turbos needs to be replaced, what are my options besides getting the stock turbo replaced, without getting some crazy setup? This is my daily driver and I don't want to spend money beyond what I need to get it fixed, but it there is a stronger more reliable turbo for about the same as a OEM, I would want to consider... Also price for OEM replacement??
3. Without the mechanic looking at it, I'm just assuming it's the turbo but what else could be the issue? All the lines looks intact and intake is fitted correctly. I did have issues with my cam follower getting damaged at 45,000 miles (there was a hole in it) and I have been replacing it every 20,000 miles since. Didn't have any issues for 40,000 additional miles, but could damage to that cause turbo failure?
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When I turn off my 2010 Golf TDI it sounds like a jet shutting off. I've had the car for over a year and it just started doing this. Is this just a noisy fan winding down?
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As the title states, I am getting a weird click from what seems to be both front and back when going over bumps or turning slow. Thinking it may be sway bar bushings or something like that, but not 100%... Its also not your typical blown CV boot click either, its more like something is flexing and hitting into something...
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