Golf V R32 :: Vibration Along With Sounding Exhaust When Go From 3000 - 5000 RPM
Mar 24, 2008
230 miles and I have one question. I'm braking in the R slowly and haven't really hit the RPM's in a crazy way but when I go from say 3000-5000 RPM I hear a vibration along with the nice sounding exhaust. It happens in each gear if i take it that high.
I'm thinking it's maybe a heat shield or something? Have any of you experienced this or maybe have heard of this symptom.
Other than this issue, the car is the bomb! My R is not numbered? Isn't the number on the steering wheel?
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My GTI has started to bog out, i guess is the best way to describe... As I am trying to accelerate on the highway my RPMs rev up to 5000 till I get any response to amount of gas I am giving. It will dramatically drop to 3000 without letting off the gas. then gradually will accelerate, untypical to way it use to perform. She respond this way cold or hot.
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I just bought a 03 accent the same day i bought it the CEL came on got it read and it was cylinder 4 misfire. took it to the garage the dealer i bought it from takes it to he said there was a little water around the boot in that weird little channel area under the cover he said he cleaned it up dried all out then reset the code and it was good, for a little about 2 weeks later it comes on again i get it read and it says cy 4 misfire again but also P0133 (o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1) and i cannot remember exactly but i think the CEL came on after the exhaust started sounding loud, like it has one of those ricer mufflers on it.
Well I jacked up the car today and looked the only thing i saw was after the first cat right before the braided flex pipe there is this weird "shield" looking piece on the underside of the exhaust pipe dunno if its really supposed to be there or what it is for but from somewhere under that piece i can see exhaust coming out(its cold right now) also the flex piece is kinda blackened like its had exhaust fumes blowing on it for a while. i cant imagine why this would be a normal thing but i have never worked on hyunda before. i am thinking if there is some sort of "leak" there that is why the o2 code is showing. i am stumped, esp on the cy 4 misfire all sparks and wires look good i pulled each wire with it running and it bogs down til i plug it back in.
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Recently had an aftermarket turbo back exhaust system installed. After driving for a short while, I noticed that between 2500 and 3500 RPMs the noise was very loud. Once I hit the highway (in which the engine almost exclusively hangs around those numbers), it was almost unbearable to sit in the car while having that constant droning sound. I have had and been in cars with aftermarket exhaust systems before and never heard anything quite like this. It is pretty tame below 2500 and once you hit 4000, it sounds quite nice and that horrible drone goes away. I really trust the shop that did the work, so I doubt it was faulty install. Could it be a faulty design or maybe just the one that I received?
This exhaust is from a reputable maker and they designed this system specifically for the Golf R. I did have some other mods done at the same time (Coilovers, Engine Mount Insert, Intake and a Tune). I know the insert may cause a little bit of vibration and hence a little bit of extra noise, but nothing like this. While driving on the highway at 3000 RPMs, I cannot even clearly see the cars behind me through the rear windshield as there is so much vibration from all the noise.
Forgot to mention, this TBE is resonated with a CAT, so even more reason for concern. Would expect it to be quiet by comparison to a CAT-less non-resonated system
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I have been noticing this Rotten egg/sulfur exhaust smell I have been getting for the past 2 months. So far it only happens when the engine hits 3000rpm or higher.
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When I start the car and its cold outside the car is shaking like a leaf for about 1 minute and when I arrive at 3000rpm there is like a vibration in the steering and in the pedals.
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I'm hoping it's nothing, maybe bad gas.
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I am getting a engine vibration on a new 2011 corolla LE. The vibration is right between 2000-3000 RPM. Also the muffler kinda sounds louder at that RPM. I have only 300 miles on this car ...
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I recently purchased a 2013 elantra.
I have noticed that there is engine vibration and noise felt in car and pedal when accelerating at around 2500-3000 rpm's before it shifts. Is this normal behavior? It just does not seem as smooth as it should be. I have only put about 600 miles on the car.
It has been very cold, but it does not go away after warming up.
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I have a 2011 GTI, with an apr chip and apr intake stage 1. Car is brand new 4000 miles
When hitting boost in 3rd-6th gear i hear a fluttering sound between 3500rpm and 5000rpm after 5000rpm the sound either dissipates or is drowned out by the motor.
I've done a lot of research around this sound and i havent been able to find a certain answer, it could be compression surge (i wouldn't see why), a leaky DV ( also cant see why because the 2011 has the new revision D piston actuated DV), A fluttering wastegate.
Sage 1 apr chip and stage 1 apr intake...
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When I purchased my 2010 mk6 about 3 weeks ago there was a noise in the dash board when ever the RPM's pasted 5,000 It sounds like a rattling noise from the intake or something. So i put a stage 2 APR intake, Magnaflow cat back exhaust and a AWE tune. After all that work the rattling noise is still there and is driving me crazy. I love the car but there's gotta be a way to get rid off the noise ...
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I have a 2000 b5 wagon with a 2.8 5spd with 200k on it .... Its slammed on coils and i get this squealing in reverse i dont know what it is i just rebuilt the front end ie control arms... also have a nasty vibration from 1000rpms to 3000 rpms could that be engine mounts/snub mount?
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I was running in a track day at Sebring today and missed a shift. Rookie move...the car eventually went into limp mode. I took the car back to the pits and scanned the codes. Limp mode was confirmed in addition to a cylinder 4 misfire and a random/intermittent misfire. Cleared the codes and went back out; couldn't even finish the lap before the car was thrown back into limp mode.
I was able to hobble home by keeping the car out of boost and started trouble shooting. So far I have ruled out spark plugs and coils. Should I be looking at the injector next? Any chance I bent a valve? The misfire can be triggered by putting the car under a load and bringing it up to 5,000 RPMs or higher.
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My CW R has 12k of combined mileage primarily in D/S with some aggressive Topanga Canyon driving in M. While sprinting onto the 405 the other night a resonant metallic buzz/vibration was audible between 4800-5000rpms in 3rd & 4th gear! The sound is coming from below the shifter console area. I can't reproduce it in any other gears or rpm range.
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At the beginning December I put my brand new winter tires (general altimax arctics) on the factory steelies and put them on the car gearing up for the snow. Not to long after the install I notice that I was getting a very strong engine vibration starting at 3,000 rpms and it stopped around 3,100 rpms no matter what gear I was in. At first I though it maybe just the cold affecting the engine. Well...
Last week I put my summer rims and tires back on for the 1,600 mile trip to MO and back, and like magic, no more heavy vibrations. Smooth acceleration throughout the normal driving rpm range. I just changed the oil and tranny fluids Tuesday after we got back and with the warmer weather the car is running smooth as silk. Still an awesome car with awesome mileage and couldn't be happier.
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I am getting an electric sounding click coming from the steering column, ECU area. It does not happen all the time. I heard it when I first got the car and it just started up again.
I am thinking the Unitronics chip I just got is having the ECU relearn everything and that is causing the clicking.
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Went out to run some errands this morning, and was alarmed to hear a loud, tinny-sounding banging noise from the rear of the car. It would occur on every bump. little or big; every time I braked; every time I started up from a stop; after each shift to a higher gear; and every time I turned a corner.
I was getting really concerned, as I had never heard a noise quite like this on any car, ever before. When I got home, I pulled the floor jack out of the garage, then went to the trunk to get my torque wrench with the wheel bolt socket on it.
When I opened the trunk, this is what I saw: ...
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Been hearing a plastic sounding tapping noise when I ride over very bumpy roads. Turns out the floor panel in the trunk has some play and it's not padded. Well I wedged a towel Between the floor and the trunk lid and the tapping is gone. I was able to duplicate the sound by lifting and dropping the sliding floor in the trunk. Anyway I'm thrilled car is supple and quite over bumpy roads now. I went over every bumpy road I could find; nice and planted and quite now...
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My car has ~2500km on it now and I've noticed a whirring / knocking noise from the left side of the car Mk6 GTI. It's not loud (in fact, hardly audible at times) but it's there. It's most noticeable when I am driving slowly (~30km/h) at low rpms (1500rpm).
It's only when the car is in motion that I can hear the noise. I revved the engine in neutral and could not re-produce the noise.
I've tried adjusting the tire pressure but that didn't seem to work. It was at 38 psi and now at 40 psi. No diff in the noise level.
It sounds like a knocking (like two plastic tubes hitting each other) /whirring noise but I cannot pinpoint the source...or whether it's even under the car or the engine...but it's definitely the left side.
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On start up I constantly get a almost dial up Internet connection sounding noise coming from my engine (2.5)? I've been told that it could be from the cold weather ,,,,
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I just had a new clutch installed yesterday. Bully stg3 with flywheel. My 2012 R has 22k. I had to change it since my stock clutch was slipping at 3000rpm with the Unitronic stg1+.
The second I start the car and stay on neutral, give a little gas I hear a super loud grinding noise. It stop when I press the clutch. On idle I don`t hear nothing and when I drive everything is fine until I release the clutch and when I don`t press the gas.
The shop said they never heard anything that loud and they confirm that everything was installed correctly. Other then the noise the clutch is fine and works very well.
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