Golf V R32 :: Unable To Maintain A Steady Speed And Then Losing Power
Sep 17, 2009
R32 has 29,000 miles. I live at 8000ft. Recently, my R, when traveling back from sea level, starts to have what seems like fueling issues at around 7000ft. These take place by the car being unable to maintain a steady speed and then losing power. Once power falls you can press on accelerator and then will pick up again and accelerate through the gears until you need to back of the accelerator, then the same problem will happen... Once home after lurching around like a kangaroo the car will be fine if switched off and then left for an hour before driving again.
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Problem I'm having, when in overdrive my 04' F150 FX4 5.4 Triton surges while trying to maintain a steady speed during power delivery to the wheels, it causes a shuttering and bucking effect. If I push the button to turn the O/D off, the RPMs rise and problem goes away. During the problem no CEL illuminates and tach stays constant. Fluid condition & level are okay. (not burnt) I'm completely baffled since there is no code in the ECM to point me in the right direction. I do use the truck to occasionally tow my 5k lb boat & trailer. When I began towing I did not know to turn the O/D off and put some miles on towing in overdrive, I know now that was not good for the tranny.
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Diagnosing our 2006 Hyundai Sonata.....2.4 L engine....automatic.
While cruising along, about 40mph and up I guess...when traveling at a steady throttle and engine speed... if you ever so slightly give it more gas, sometimes it will act as though it is losing power for a second and then kick back in.....but revs will stay up....
I was thinking either throttle position sensor or (gasp) transmission.....it doesn't really feel like a slipping tranny....but wondering if it is issues with the overdrive...
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2003 Elantra GT 5-speed:
In driveway with constant pressure on accelerator (stick wedged between pedal and seat) a static rpm can be maintained for only a short time(< 2 min) time before rpm drops rapidly to idle rpm. Accelerator pedal never moves (still depressed to high rpm position) but engine is just idling away.
Note: New fuel filter and fuel pump recently installed as engine intermittently chugged/hesitated (acted like out of fuel for a fraction of a sec) especially with warmer air temperatures. Still does this but now unable to maintain driving rpm for any length of time.
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I've noticed when trying to maintain a low speed (25-35mph) the car doesn't really like that... Almost feel like the brake is being slightly pushed on and off, or the car is losing power. It's been most noticeable around curves when coasting but having to give it a bit of gas to maintain speed. Shifting overall doesn't seem bad, so it doesn't feel like a tranny issue. I've also sometimes noticed the opposite. Sometimes when coasting then pushing the brake to slightly slow up it almost feels like the throttle is very slightly being pushed. Not sure if I'm having powertrain issues or just not used to the way this car drives. It just get most annoying when trying to maintain 30mph in city and the car occasionally surges a bit.
(2010 camry xle, i4, 97,000 miles)
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I got vw golf 2000 tdi , I never had a problem with it, the other day I was driving on high speed just about to over take my car slow dawn it was feel like there no turbo, in low gears is fine but if u go over 70 mph it won't go, but soon is u switch off the engine and start again it will come back to normal ??
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It is difficult to explain (and google) but my 1.4 16V Golf 4 does this sometimes: while driving at a steady speed car jerks for a moment and revs drop quite much, a moment later it is fine. It feels like I had stepped on the brakes, but when I actually try that the revs won't drop as much. Like my engine seizes up for a fraction of a second but there is no noise. It has done that actually for 3 years, but it was really rare, about twice a year, but now I have had those jerks three days in a row.
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My cruise control will engage but not maintain set speed. It slowly loses KPH, 10 KPH every 30 seconds. What to look for?
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I have '98 Transport Montana and I took it on a trip last weekend on the expressway. I would be doing 70 MPH and approach a hill and start depressing the accelerator to maintain my speed and I could feel a chugging. Also, I could hear the engine seem to make a change in its sound coincident with the chugging. The RPMs at this point were around 2K. It's a 3.4 and all of the normal stuff has been maintained properly (spark plugs, filters, etc.).
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I recently picked up a 2001 Nissan sentra. This car sat since around 2010. I guess the previous owner had a lot of work done by the dealer a year or so ago and it looks it, brake pads etc. are brand new, a couple other things look new but he's not a car guy in the slightest and can't find the receipt nor will the dealer give him one due to computer system change and I actually tried with them myself, that's correct.
Anyway, the check engine light is on and bringing it home we had reports of black smoke out the exhaust. It also felt like it wanted to stall at times when stopped but it never did. Well, I ran it a while and at times it seemed like it wanted to clear up, at others it didn't but the light stayed on and what not. I scanned it and it claimed the O2 sensor 1 bank 2 was bad so I replaced it.
It didn't make any difference so I cleaned the Mass Air flow sensor. Again no good it's the same. Here's the funny thing though, it's great first thing in the morning usually. As the day goes on and as we drive it, it gets worse. What I can try/change next?
I'm almost leaning on electrical issue where it gets worse as the day goes on and dew dries off. I'm new to Nissan's, I like the car and really want to work this issue out. I did replace the fuel pump when I got the car, and have run sea foam through and actually on that tank of gas it ran pretty good but that's worked itself out now.
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Recently bought an Audi A4 Quattro from a dealer with 112,876 miles on it.. The car runs absolutely beautiful, it up-shifts and downshifts without any noticeable issue, it changes gears without any issue, however... When I am trying to maintain a stable speed of around 35 - 40mph and my engine hangs around 1700RPM it'll bounce up and down slightly..
The revs will hop between 1700RPM up to around 1750RPM and then back down, and then up again.. It's hardly noticeable and the only time it causes any issue/delay is when it hops above 2000RPM and then back down... Is the torque converter the issue or what else could be the cause? Timing belt has been done, spark plugs have been checked, oil has been changed.
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Middle of May, I went to Boston. On the way there, I started to notice a slight whirring noise that was only present when I gently feathered the gas to maintain highway speed. If I were to apply any more throttle, the noise would go away, and if I were to pull my foot away and allow engine braking, it would also disappear.
So I did my best to finish the trip to and from Boston adjusting my driving to avoid the noise. Once I came home, I researched and thought the noise might have been my wheel bearings (I had just replaced lower control arms, lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods prior to leaving for Boston). I also had a shop install my upper strut mount bearings and bushings simultaneously with the wheel bearings.
Since then, the problem still continues. It has grown louder, but still occurs under the same situations. I've focused more on it and here are the conditions under which it occurs:
1. Car must be warmed up. Starting it up cold and allowing SAI to run then driving, car is fine, no sounds. Usually takes 20-25 mins of driving to get it to start making noise.
2. Car still only makes the noise when the gas is being feathered (ie barely pressing it enough to give it any sort of throttle. It does also make the noise between shifts when reengaging the gear and applying gas, as the throttle pedal passes the point of throttle off to throttle on.
3. I'm hearing more noise now during engine braking than I had been previously. Could be related?
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I have a 2003 Tahoe that I love but is driving me crazy with a "Reduced Engine Power" message. I am driving along and suddenly it dings at me, the message center says "reduced engine power" and I am losing speed. It goes into a "limp mode" in which I cannot accelerate, it cannot pull itself up a hill, and the engine misses badly. I can pull over, shut it off for a couple of minutes and then start it up and run again just fine until it decides to do it again.
There seems to be no rhyme or reason, one day it did it 4 times w/n the first 20 miles, then ran 100 miles w/o doing it at all. I recently took it on a trip that normally takes me 1 1/2 hours, it took 2 1/4 hrs that day because I had to pull over so many times. I was having to stop every 3-4 miles by the time I got there. My usual mechanic has completely given up, told me to trade it. I have had it to another mechanic for over a month now, 3 times he has thought it was fixed, but it wasn't. One time, I didn't even make it the 5 miles to my house before it acted up again.
One other note on this: this past trip I made, I left early in the morning and my lights were flickering high/low. . . this went on for several miles. Finally my lights quit flickering, then I lost engine power, pulled over, shut it off. When I started it back up, the lights started flickering again. The cycle seemed to continue, once the lights would settle, the engine would lose power. I took it to a parts store and had the battery and alternator checked. They said both were fine. (Had never noticed the light thing before, but I can't think of a recent trip after dark.) How I can pass along to my mechanic?
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I have a 2016 350 dually with 6.7, with 2,200 miles. I was pulling my 11,000 LB travel trailer on fairly level ground, major interstate going 65mph. Noticed I started losing speed down to about 58mph, then started decending a long 5-6% grade, at this point I was running at 3/4 throttle to maintain speed. It felt like something was binding like the rear or engine was seizing up. No codes, all temps were fine. Transmission stayed in 6th gear, even at 3/4 throttle.
Checked trailer brakes, didn't seem to be dragging. Engine sounded like it was really laboring like it was tightening up. This lasted about 10 minutes, very slowly power seemed to return to normal but it was not noticeably changing. Fuel was 3/4, DEF was filled about 300 miles earlier. This truck since new feels like it has 150HP less than my 2011 F250 with the 6.7 I traded it on. Not sure what to do, if I take it back, if they find nothing then I'll get a diagnostic charge.
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What may have wrong with my trans on my truck... this is what its doing, I am able to put in drive and drive it for so long then its like the truck is in neutral and doesn't gain or maintain speed. but i can turn the truck off and put it in park and restart the truck and it will go again?? that is how i got it home....
the fluid is burnt now but wasn't that bad until the trans started doing this. I have pulled off the pan and inspected the filter and it does have metal debris in it, pulling the valve body off tonight before work (work 3rd shift) to inspect that, i think it has something to do with the solenoids or valve body because it actually moves but then quits until i restart the truck. Also does the transfer case use fluid from the transmission? or are the fluids separated between the 2.
Truck has 4.0L SOHC with a 5R55E in it 4WD...
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I just have a situation that I would like some insight into. I have a 2004 T-reg V6 that jerks while at a constant speed (usually around 40-50 mph). It does it both while cruise is engaged and disengaged. You can also hear a rhythmic "clunk"ing. The jerking and clunking stop if you accelerate or decelerate.
BTW the car is still under full aftermarket warranty from the dealership where we bought it so I would want to try to figure out what this is before the warranty ends.
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Our Egg will occasionally surge at steady speeds - i.e it will jerk fore and aft with no change in accelerator pedal settings. This is an intermittent problem that seems worse when ambient temperatures are low. It isn't yet annoying enough to warrant a trip to the dealer (they seem clueless about this car anyway!).
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This is a 2002 Toyota Camry 4cyl with 249157 miles. I drove it 140 miles to work, noticed no issues, parked it, and got back in after 10 hours. On the way back I noticed a noise that got louder the faster I went. It is independent of the engine revolutions (I put the car in neutral and "coasted"). The noise is completely dependent on the speed of my forward movement.
So I put the car up and in gear and around 25/30 mph, the sound shows up and gets worse as the speed increases. It does not get worse in turns. And it is very consistent- not clunking or clicking, just a steady sounds almost like strong wind over an object. I replaced the wheel bearings in both front wheel assemblies about a year and a half ago.
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[URL] .... Mazda 2.3 Liter 4 cyl. accelerates fine in all gears, but once you reach a steady speed in any gear, it jerks and bumps. Does not run smooth unless you are accelerating?
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I've noticed the Prius V engine is running at very low RPM in ECO mode at steady speed of about 65km/h (40mph). Fuel consumption vary between about 4-5L/100km (58 - 47mpg) and RPM is showing about 1100+
I usually see RPM of about 1100 to 1400+ which is very good; so I'm not surprised this engine is very fuel efficient.
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My 1990 nissan pathfinder 4x4 has a bad vibration shakes all over when driving at steady speed around 50 to 55 mph, it goes away when you let up on the gas and when you accelerate.
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