I am getting a ticking noise under hard acceleration. Dealer told me the exhaust is touching the heat shield but did nothing about it. It's driving me crazy...
I may have to pull the trigger on this Borla I found for 700 shipped and new. Trying to keep my promise to myself to drive the car stock for a year b4 any major spending. That's out, I can already tell.
My VR6 is making a ticking sound when i accelerate, between 2800-3100, then it dies down a little and then gets loudest at about 3600-4000. The noise stops at exactly 4000rpms every time. Here is a sound clip of what the noise sounds like... you can hear it best in the last 15 seconds or so in the video. Maybe its the timing chains...
[URL] .....
11' Non-Turbo 2.4 with 145k Full Synthetic every 5k (Done me or provided to the quicky lube) Around 80K about 2 weeks after taking it in for an oil change my wife heard a ticking sound coming from under the hood. Pulled over and there wasn't a drop of oil on the stick. It started with about a qt every 1000 miles or so, now it's to the point that I have to put a qt in about every 3 days (1-200 miles)
We cannot see oil anywhere, last I checked the plugs had carbon build up but were not wet. (Recently) We also hear a ticking sound during hard acceleration and a good bit of black smoke coming from the exhaust.
We still owe 5k on it, it's our first new car and I'm terrified the thing is going to blow up before I pay it off. Tonight as I was about to get in the car with her I heard the clicking sound again but this time it was full (just added some yesterday). I have compression and leak down testers, know a little bit but I am nowhere near a "mechanic".
Exhaust tick really bad under acceleration when its cold. It goes away after the car is really warm. Im thinking i have an exhaust leak that is closing up when the exhaust warms up.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 Ford F150 Lariat with 111000 miles on it and now I have a ticking noise under acceleration only and after reading some stuff on here that makes me believe that it is the cam phasers. The question I have is what kind of damage can this cause? Is this something that I can continue running with and does the noise get worse and if so how much worse?
View 9 RepliesAbout a week ago my 1997 F150 4.6L 2WD starting a ticking noise. I had used high mileage full synthetic Mobil 1 and a Motorcraft oil filter for the previous oil change and yesterday had another oil change using regular Mobil 1 synthetic and a Motorcraft oil filter. Had never used high mileage oil before.
Since the high mileage oil is supposed to have extra cleaning agents in it to remove the sludge buildup in the engine, could the sludge have found its way into the oil pan and possibly clogged up the oil pickup tube? The ticking was not continuous and would be at idle or acceleration.
No rhyme or reason to when you would hear it. I also wonder about an exhaust manifold leak which could sound like ticking. If the problem is an oil pickup tube being clogged up, can the oil pan be removed with the engine still in the truck?
2013 Elantra manual. 60,xxxkm, owned from new, purchased in August 2013. Oil changes always done within 5-7000km. Was 2000km over my oil change due date when this happened (haven't had time to get it done, been driving my motorcycle mostly). Driving around today I dropped my wife off, then I heard a quiet ticking noise under very light acceleration.
The noise would go away under normal acceleration, no noise while revving, and no noise while engine braking. The noise got worse after about 5km. I was in traffic and engaged the clutch into first gear, the car stalled violently. Turning the key results in a click, then nothing. In 1st gear the car will not roll forward. In reverse the car will not roll back. It still rolls in neutral. Had it towed to my local Hyundai dealer and got a rental. Waiting on the results.
Never saw a drop of oil on the ground while parked, and never smelt any oil burning. I run between 87 and 91 octane, whichever is available. I have the extended 160,000km 8yr warranty, hopefully this is covered as I still owe about 15g's on the car.
I have a 2001 5.4 V8 with 55K miles and the tow package. On acceleration the engine makes a ticking noise. Engine seems to run fine, no misfire.
View 14 RepliesI have 2015 GTI PP which had the APR Stage 2 with downpipe done about two weeks ago. I pretty much babied it the first week and couldn't believe how quick the car felt with a tiny little bit of throttle.
However, when I floor the car, it accelerates slower than if the throttle is slowly pressed to the floor. If I floor it and then back slowly back off the throttle as I near the upper RPMs the car starts to accelerate like it should have in the first place. The car is a total rocket if I slowly press the pedal towards the floor but if I press the pedal to much towards the floor the car slows down its acceleration that is until I start to slowly lift the pedal.
I'm at 5000ft elevation and its been pretty hot in the 80-103 F degrees. The gas out here is only 91 octane and the car has the 91 octane tune. I have tried gas from multiple stations and even tried an octane booster with no noticible improvement. I went to go log the car with my VCDS and found out that this new car uses a UDS ECU and none of the APR codes on their site match up.
Looking for a compiled list of UDS codes that actually log something useful? Or have a list that corresponds to the APR list of codes?
My GTI knocks everytime i acceletate hard from a full stop. The car is chipped stage 1+ from unitronic, apr intake. Everything else is stock, 80.000 km. the sound comes from the front right wheel. I believe it is a top plate, but I'm not too sure.
View 5 Replies1.8T ... Well, initially, engine light came on with a violent shake from the engine compartment. It was really really bad. I thought the engine mount just broke off or something...
First I looked at the coil packs and the spark plugs. The spark plugs were pretty old (I got the 02 Jetta 1.8T at ~140k miles for 1k, so no surprises). Spark plug on cylinder 2 was real bad, and that was the cylinder with the misfire code. Got a new set of spark plugs first. It worked a lot and the violent shuddering mostly went away.
The engine still idled erratically jumping and dipping at idle, even with the A/C off. So I replaced the coil pack on cylinder 2 after doing the coil pack switch test... After replacing the one coil pack, the engine idles like like it's new.
When I put the car in neutral and rev the engine to the redline, it revs nicely, very smooth. When I drive the car, when I accelerate reasonably slowly with the traffic, the car drives just fine. If I keep the car in lower gears and use light throttle to accelerate, it is smooth even past the rpm range where the turbo would be spooled up.
It is only when I dip into the throttle a bit more (no where near full throttle) to try to pass a car or accelerate just a bit harder, a little past ~2200rpm ish which is when the turbo starts spooling from the sound of it, it starts shuddering badly, and check engine light comes back on. The code shows misfire in cylinder 2.
My guess is there's something off with fuel system. My non-mechanic thought process is that maybe the injector is clogged and when it's light throttle, light acceleration, it injects little fuel and its ok, but when under heavier load / throttle, it tries to inject more fuel, but can't because it's clogged...
I recently changed out my stock clutch for a SB Stg.2 endurance clutch. Under hard acceleration my car has developed a serious vibration. I had all four tires road forced balanced but this did nothing. It almost feels as if I have a bent wheel but had no issues prior to the install.
View 24 RepliesI've had this happen a couple of times before on my '10 GTI - I'm on the freeway and I decide to throw the DSG into S mode and punch it, seconds after I bring it back down to D and normal engine speeds I can smell an odor that reminds me of the cat going bad - sort of like sulfur or something burning (not rubber, though). This is with my windows rolled up and A/C re-circulation turned on. What I should be checking?
View 14 RepliesMy 2002 1.8L 60K miles is making a loud woooshhh noise during hard acceleration. The noise seems to be coming from the engine, but it might be coming from under the car. I have a manual tranny, and this happens in all gears. There is no noise during idle, and no noise during mild acceleration.
View 3 RepliesI just recently bought a 2001 Jetta with the 1.8t (AWD) because it had low mileage and a reasonable price. I've never owned a VW before so I know very little about them in general. This is my second vehicle with a turbo, my first was a Saab 93.
When I purchased the car it had the check engine light on and the codes were Vehicle Speed Sensor and Secondary Air Injection Pump. I was able to get it to stop throwing those codes just by cleaning off the components and reconnecting them. The only predominant problem I've been experiencing is that under hard acceleration in 3rd-5th the car will jump and jerk. Its almost like the car isn't getting enough fuel/air but I'm not entirely sure if that's an accurate diagnosis. I've ruled out transmission issues because there are no problems when driving at a slow-normal acceleration. Any insight on where I should begin to fix this issue would be welcomed because I feel as if my motor mounts will break due the force of the jerking.
My last issue has to do with what happened yesterday. My check engine light came back on randomly when I cranked my car. I had no issues the previous day (besides the aforementioned "jerking) so it seemed odd but what really worried me was when I started driving. Whenever I would release the accelerator the car would slow down suddenly as if I applied the brake. The problem continued throughout the day until I got the codes checked and they read Vehicle Speed Sensor (which I've seen has numerous issues from the factory installation) and the Bank 1 O2 sensor. Today I started my car and the check engine light wasn't on.
My car drove like normal (still the hard acceleration jerking but no dramatic deceleration when I release the accelerator). Now to my question, can an O2 sensor cause a problem like this? Maybe the MAF is bad? Not even sure if this vehicle will throw a code for the MAF ...
I took delivery of my GTI last Friday and I'm loving the car so far. Coming from a 2001 Miata LS, this car is so much smoother and quiet. I especially love the engine and the sound it makes, or lack thereof. It's barely noticeable until I stomp on the gas and then there's a lovely ... growl? rumble? I'm trying to think of how to describe the sound to friends who cannot hear it firsthand.
BTW, I haven't noticed the dreaded turbo wastegate rattle between 2-3K RPMs so, no, it's not that.
Lately I've been having trouble with my car in third gear under hard acceleration while in tip mode with DSG. I have been Stage 2 since April and it hasn't really been an issue until recently.
The best way I can describe it is when you get into 3rd with your foot on the gas the car stops accelerating and kind of gets stuck. I have to completely let off the gas and before it "wakes up" again. I feel like it's been getting worse in worse, but it only ever happens when I try to push it hard.
No problems in auto mode or sport, it's just a major let down. Could the fuel pump be the culprit? It just feels like the car doesn't want to move for a second or 2, like no response from the gas pedal.
I have a 2007 Camry SE V6. Under moderate to hard acceleration, it sounds like a deep throaty sound coming from where the intake/throttle body is located, almost as if I have a SRI, but I do not. I checked for anything loose, hoses, airbox, etc. Then checked the intake resonator below and to the left of the battery, all seemed normal. Everything seems normal! Only happens when I push the accelerator a little more than usual, for example, when I go on the highway.
View 6 RepliesI have an 04 V8 and have consistently noted a valve(?) clatter noise under moderate to hard acceleration. I mentioned it to my VW sales associate and he stated this is typical of this engine and that after warm up it should no longer occur. I hear the clatter at any time, warm or cold.
View 5 RepliesNew here - 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4L Autostick//great car so far, but this is annoying me!
I can't feel any vibration, I just bought the vehicle and wondering where this noise might be coming from? If you rev the engine over 3k there is a strange vibrating/humming/rattling?? noise but you can't feel any vibration. I was thinking it might be the plastic cover on the engine or maybe something loose? I've already had the belt tensioners/belts checked out and that is not the issue.
It also sounds like a ricer when accelerating heavily (but from inside the cabin) there aren't any exhaust leaks at least I don't think so...
Recently the car was stuttering under hard acceleration and battery voltage dropped, I have a batt gauge. Got harness replaced and symptoms are gone but this must be happening to others with or without symptoms.
Check your fuse box on top of the battery. The alternator harness wire turns silver after many years of use. Your battery volts will drop also and you can see it with a gauge. I changed this harness and symptoms went away. It's the thick gauge wire all the way to the left. This needs to be changed with a new alternator. Many people prob don't know their harness is causing high resistance affecting the quality of smoothness.
The hotter the car gets the worse it gets if you have this issue. More RPMS, is more electricity and more resistance. There is no CEL for this. The harness should be copper colored, if it turns silver it's old and needs to be swapped. If you drive low Rpms all the time you won't notice. But it's an R, who does this?
The harness is around $90 and car has to be in service mode to get to the alternator. This is my 2nd alternator and kept my original harness when replaced, bad idea.
It takes under 20 seconds to pop the hood and open the fuse box to see what color your harness cable is. I expect most to be silver not copper, but whether you have symptoms or not depends on severity.