Golf V R32 :: Tail Lights Bulb Out Warning
Jun 11, 2012
So, I'm not entirely sure if this has been covered, but I dealt with the bulb out warning with the LED tail lights. I am not running the fourth wire. I had tried searching for a while but found no answers. Most conversation about this issue are buried in old threads.
The usual DIY disclaimer applies. In the Central Electrics module (09), access Coding, then Long Coding. You will need to make sure that Byte 19, Bit 3 is checked (Diagnosis Rear Parking Lights Active).
Here is my current coding:
E68D8B6700041500470A0000F000000000918095C000100000 000000000
I have verified all operations (parking lights, brake lights, turn signals [amber]) and no flickering as well.
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Problem with my '86 Celica's charging system. Car has about 135,000 miles and original alternator and belt. It is usually driven once or twice a week, but after sitting about 10 days, the tail light, brake, and battery warning lights came on when I started it. The lights went out after a minute. This same sequence of events happened the next three times I started the car that day. The fourth time, the lights went out but came back on as I drove. I found that revving the engine to between two and three thousand RPM made the light go off, but it sometimes came back on. And the engine revving isn't a sure thing now. Hit and miss. My wife and I have been trying to diagnose the problem.
When the warning lights are on, the dash voltmeter is near the bottom of the operating range. After revving and the lights going off, the voltmeter jumps up near the top of the normal operating range indicating the battery is charging.
The belt is checkered on the inside but not frayed. It deflected about 7/16ths inch midway between two pulleys about 17" apart. The Haynes manual said 1/2 inch was maximum deflection for that span. No unusual noises from the alternator.
We ran a checklist from my Haynes manual but I think it has an error in it. Here are the two steps that don't make sense. I marked the parts that seem to contradict with asterisks.
h) Disconnect the battery cables (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary. Reconnect the cable to the negative terminal.
i) With the key off, insert a test light between the negative battery post and the disconnected negative cable clamp.
1) If the test light does not come on, reattach the clamp and proceed to the next step.
2) If the test light comes on, there is a short in the electrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked.
3) Disconnect the alternator wiring harness.
(a) If the light goes out, the alternator is bad.
(b) If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out (this will tell you which component is shorted)."
Well, we decided that the last instruction in Step h should be to reconnect the POSITIVE cable (but could be wrong). I did this and we did Step i as written. The light came ON (Step 2). Disconnect the alternator wires at two points. Light stayed ON. Pulled every fuse under the hood and on the kick panel by the clutch. Light stayed ON.
The battery is near the end of its warranty period--about two-year old DieHard. Voltage at the terminals is about 12.4V with key out, about the same with ignition on but not running, the same with engine running and the dash lights showing, and about 14.5V after I get the dash lights to go off and the battery starts charging.
So, we're at a standstill. Tests say the tension on the belt is okay. The test light testing indicates the alternator is okay and the test light stayed on as fuses were pulled. The key was out of the ignition during the testing, but there are circuits that work without the key (brakes, hazard, headlights, etc.). Is the belt maybe slipping even though it is within specs on tension? What about the contradiction in the Haynes testing?
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I have read all 11 pages of the led light post, and I am more confused then when I started. I bought Ed's opt.4 lights with the LED's. I bought the light kit he recommended: [URL] .... with H7 harness. I have 2012 North American TDI Golf. I purchased and had installed the Bold eruo light switch with light sensor kit. I had someone install everything for me. They have had trouble finding out the proper codes needed. The issues I am having are:
1: with the above set up, they can not get the light bulb out warning light to go out. I was told that it is due to the light kit purchased above, and the fact that it only connects to the drivers side harness, and not the passenger side, so the warning light on my car keeps saying there is a bulb out on the right side.
2: With the euro switch in the Auto position, I get no DRL's at all. The only way I get that is if I turn the switch to the next position, and then I get the low beams, as well as the LED's, and no fogs. This stays the same day or night with the light switch in this position. To get the fogs as well, I turn the knob one more turn, and pull it out, and this gives me the fogs as well as the low beams and LED's.
My questions are:
1: can I get the LED's as DRL's in the Auto position or in the position next to it, and then have the rest of the lights come on automatically at night via the sensor? If so, what are the vagcom codes I would need?
2: Is there anyway to get the bulb out warning light to go away without putting in a different light kit. I was told by the installer that they had to try a few light kits to get one to work with the coding of the vw, and the kit they use connects with two harnesses(one for each head light, and not one harness for both as my set up is).
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I recently installed the LED euro tail lights with out swapping pins, or any ghetto harnesses. i simply installed my tail lights with the oem harness. Anyways, after i installed the lights, the bulb out warning came on, i got rid of it, but when i press the brakes it triggers the warning light to appear after i vagcomed it to go away. so what is the coding to get rid of it?
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Installed last week, LED no fog. Everything worked great but I had the bulb out error. Yesterday, I had the coding done and I now have an issue. Worked fine when I left the dealer and this morning I have a "Check Right Rear Light" warning. The right rear is no longer lit. Back up light works, tail light does not. I think the dealer changed byte 18 to 21 but also changed the setting from NA to something else... maybe ROW.
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So I go install my led tails and only one damn tail light up. Any problem when installing these tails? I followed the steps and also the ghetto harness made.
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Having issues with leaking OEM LED tail lights? I bought them through ECS Tuning but they only come with a year warranty, it's just the passenger right but just stinks paying $700+ for them to start leaking [URL]....
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Experiencing water in the top of there tail lights? The dealer says this is normal. It's been like this for a week now.
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I just bought OEM R32 tinted tail lights. How do you remove the OEM stock tails. I've been trying to find some info on this subject but, only found this,
I'm pretty sure that he is working on a GTI. Is it the same as a R32 because mine doesn't really look the same. my interior trim doesn't seem to peal that easy or at all. Do I need to cut the trim with a blade or remove any plastic trim pieces to access the lights?
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When I brake, my turn signal bulb lights up. Is that how it's supposed to be? Which bit I need to change in the vag?
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I installed the lights and they work fine but everytime I turn them on they throw a bulb out error message. I have the cold diagnosis turned off for the fogs and I still have it. Whats next?
Here is my coding. F78F8F2700041500470F0000000000000018110B5C00010000 0000000000
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2005 Jetta. I have to replace my tail light bulbs seemingly every 5 months or so. Getting pulled over for this foolishness is getting very annoyIng.
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So I've been using the rear window spray a lot since it's been snowing and the salty water/snow/air has covered the rear window a lot and I've been notice water dripping into the rear when I open the hatch but previously thought it was just some snow that melted in/around the hatch area and was dripping. Today I noticed both tail lights that are on the hatch have condensation in them. When I popped the plastic covering on the hatch that you use to replace the bulbs, I noticed there was the blue spray fluid. So I removed the two tail light and I can't seem to figure out how to get the bit of water out of the white and red parts. Do the lens come off any way? I now realize the leaky rear spray thing is a common issue and just ordered the two stupid 50 cent pieces that costs 31 with shipping from ECS
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my OEM Euro Golf R outer LED tail lights are a tad brighter than the inners. is this normal? I did not code these yet.
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Lexus IS: How to Replace Your Tail Light Assembly
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Lexus IS Lighting Guides
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My wife has a 2012 Avalon Limited. I also see that it comes with a side marker light as well. What is the bulb for the side marker light and how to replace it as well.
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I keep having to replace my passenger rear running light and brake light. I have replaced each bulb once. Is it a short somewhere? Could it be my headlight switch?
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Having a problem with stock tailights always burning out? Recently I've noticed that I've had to replace my passenger side one twice in the last 3 months and my driver side one twice in two months. It doesn't seem to matter if I use GE or Sylvania bulbs so I'm guessing it's the cars fault.
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How to remove the rear tail lights on a Jetta city. The ones on the trunk lid.
I have switched out all the bulbs for led and can't find how to get to the reverse lights bang head.
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Both left and right tail lights don't work but brake lights and reverse work fine. Fuses look good and bulbs are fine. Could it be related to the 'circuit board' type housing that the bulbs are in? If it is, are they in series meaning if one goes bad the other side won't work either?
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I am in the middle of doing some investigative work for autokey and upon taking apart the Hatch Door rear tail light assembly, I noticed a spot where a bulb should go is empty (on both the driver and passenger sides, same spot).
Now, I am 99% sure these lights are SUPPOSED to be omitted, as the spot where a bulb would protrude into the actual tail light assembly outlined above has a metallic dome over it to keep it sealed. Just wondering why there would even be a socket available for a light? Is it part of a European package we don't get in the States?
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