Golf V R32 :: Suspension Install, Axle Puller Needed?
Apr 20, 2012
I am doing the coilover install this weekend and plan to remove the axles. Is there a way of removing the axles, without buying and using a puller?
View 13 RepliesI am doing the coilover install this weekend and plan to remove the axles. Is there a way of removing the axles, without buying and using a puller?
View 13 RepliesI am stuck in the process of replacing a driver side CV axle on a 2000 Jetta VR6 automatic. I followed a Youtube video that may have misguided me. I removed the ball joint connection to take out the axle. (I will need a alignment after all this.) I was able to take out the old cv axle, but unable to put the new one on. While taking out the old one, the strut sank 2 inches. I then disconnected the suspension from the braking system, so it would be lighter and easier to push the strut up. However, it will not budge upwards. Do I need to compress the spring? How to move the strut up?
View 14 RepliesI am replacing the mid and rear (suitcase) mufflers on my daughter's 2001 2.0L Jetta wagon. She is not interested in anything that would be louder than stock. What I am seeing is that the rear axle needs to be dropped to remove / install the rear muffler. Can this be correct? I know I can continue to cut off parts of the old muffler but that does me no good when it comes to install the new unit.
View 2 RepliesI just had a set of VWR springs installed on my 2011 GTI (35,xxx).
I've noticed a very discernible clunk coming from the driver's side front wheel particularly when traveling over a dip in the road (when the spring and suspension is extending). The sound only comes from the one wheel well - the other three sound fine.
I'm bringing it in for an alignment tomorrow (recommend after the spring install). Sounds almost like a bad bushing?
I have a 24v gti, but this deals with the front suspension. I replaced my stock suspension with a set of coils and also my drivers side axle with a raxle. Even have new strut mounts, bearings and R32 rear control arm bushings.
When I drive slowly like coming out of the drive way I can hear a continuous clunk happening 1/2 second to 1 sec apart coming from the front suspension, but after I drive a min or 2 it goes away??
This previous weekend, my buddies and I finally got my FK coilovers installed on my GTI. I have heard that people say there is a little bit of rattling upon them getting properly seated. Well it has been 4 days of driving and now sounds like the rattling has gotten worse! I took it into a local suspension shop and they couldn't put a thumb on it. We in-turn found out that my rear hub bearing was going out and has since been replace. Having issues with coilovers? I have contacted the company that I purchased them through already and am awaiting feedback from them.
Pic of the car in question. (Before coilovers)...
I recently got an MK7, coming from a MK5, and I installed the VWR springs 8 days ago. Since then I've noticed an intermittent clunking sound coming from the rear suspension. I installed springs on my MKV without any issues and again on several other cars, soIi'm familiar with the process. Everything was torqued to spec after the install.
My best description of the sound would be a clunk, not any rattling, clicking, or squealing. The sound is greater in the passenger side rear than the drivers side rear. No issues with anything up front. Sometimes it occurs when I'm turning the steering wheel while backing out of parking spots and driving slowly, other times when I hit bumps in the road, but it is not constant nor does it seem dependent on the size of the bump/pot holes in the road.
What may be causing this? My plan was to give it a week for everything to settle before I tore everything apart to look for any culprit.
Is it really necessary to pull the hub off to change ball joints?
View 9 RepliesI have a touchscreen that the dealership provided me but with the catch that I've got to install it myself, pretty sure it has something to do with the state the previous stereo was taken out, all I'm left with are a cluster of wires none of which I know are for what.
View 2 RepliesAC compressor clutch bearings went bad (went AWAY, actually) and the serp. belt snapped. New clutch went on just fine and works great, but after about 20 miles the power steering pump pulley cracked and started spinning on the shaft and the new serp belt jumped half off and ate itself.
So last night I finished putting in a new pump and pulley. Flushed out the lines with new fluid, manually bled the new pump and then followed the bleeding procedure in Haynes carefully. All looks good. Pump spins freely and runs very quiet. No noise or hesitation lock-to-lock. No leaks. Fluid level holds steady right at the half-way mark on the reservoir.
Sitting in my yard it turns smooth and very easy all the way through the whole range.
BUT, out on the street I'm getting very frequent but random lock-up where the wheel doesn't want to turn AT ALL (I'm a big guy and it's HARD to turn)! And then I'll jiggle it a bit and it's smooth as silk again. It's done it while moving fast, moving slow, and standing still. I drove about 30 miles testing it out and it seems completely random when it will lock up, but it did it about six times in half an hour. And when I got home and parked? Perfect, smooth steering.
What could be doing this? Prior to the troubles last week, steering was perfect, so I don't think the steering box is bad. (Could be, of course...).
On my way to work this morning guy pulled a left turn from a side street while I was in the rightmost lane. He pulled wide and forced me off the road. In dogging him, I hit the curb, went up on both wheels. Did not catch his plate (I go to work at 5AM, it was very dark and I was distracted because my car would not drive straight). I noticed I had to turn my wheel 35 degrees to the left to keep the car going straight.
All said, they are at 2k already on the estimate to replace most of my front right suspension and wheel. Probably going to replace the back one too. They have not even taken the thing apart yet. The only good news is my deductible is only 500 bucks and there was no cosmetic damage.
Ive seen this also on some 4runners. Ive had several vehicles many years old with no rust underneath at all and I check today and sure enough, some rust on the rear axle and in front suspension arms. I checked the lexus warranty and it is unclear whether this is covered.
View 14 RepliesI have a '58 F-100 4x4 with the Spicer model 24 divorced transfercase. The front end is out of a '64/'65 F-100.
It looks to me like the front axle has shifted forward and is tilted down. The shock mount are not even close to lining up in a manner that would allow shocks to be attached. It also looks to me like someone removed a leaf from both sides.
I already know the steering box needs to be rebuilt. What else is wrong....and how do I fix it?
I have a 95 Lumina APV 3.8 and have vibration coming from the puller fan (passenger side front of radiator). Inspection shows fan and motor good, the rubber mounting grommets are hard as nails.
Is there a secret source for these parts?
I want to replace my steering wheel. Will this puller work for that job?
View 5 RepliesI'm having trouble getting the strut back through the steering knuckle. I used the 1/4 ratchet to spread it and get the strut out but I can't get the strut to go back after installing the VWR spring. I've tried speaking with many tools now and it's just so damn stuck. I hope I haven't damaged anything by hammering a wedge into the point where the ratchet is supposed to spread it. After a couple of tries the ratchet doesn't seem to spread it at all.
View 2 RepliesI had my car tuned over the weekend with apr stage 1. As soon as I went to start the car to leave I started getting a misfire on cylinder 4. We have tried swapping coils around and re-flashing the ecu with no luck.
Details on the car : 2010 GTI 6spd 21,000 miles
I recently installed the LED euro tail lights with out swapping pins, or any ghetto harnesses. i simply installed my tail lights with the oem harness. Anyways, after i installed the lights, the bulb out warning came on, i got rid of it, but when i press the brakes it triggers the warning light to appear after i vagcomed it to go away. so what is the coding to get rid of it?
View 2 RepliesIs an alignment after a spring install necessary?
Getting my H&R springs installed tomorrow and was curious
[URL]
I finally decided to take the plunge and go with Stage 2 BFI inserts and mount.
Engine Setup (for reference):
EIP cold air
BFI Stage 2 Inserts and Mounts
Recently replaced clutch to brand new stock clutch
TT short shifter
First off, everything feels great. very solid mounts especially when compared to the spongy stock ones. definitely gets the job done.
Here's my question, is it normal to hear a lot of noise chatter coming from the clutch when not engaged? when my foot is on the clutch it goes away, and when i take my foot off a lot of noise starts coming from it. as far as i know, some clutch noise is relatively normal but I'm not sure if a lot is. also, when i start the car, the starter has a deeper, louder, more pronounced tone to it. not sure if that is normal or not either.
I had KW V2s installed on my R and the shop said they cause the ABS warning to come on so how to code out the alert using VCDS?
View 15 Replies