Golf V R32 :: Suddenly Lost Power Completely?
Aug 10, 2009
Heading to work this morning, taking the back roads as usual. Came to the nice RH sweeping curve that ends in an uphill straight (where I typically like to play a bit). Caught 3rd, nailed it coming out of the curve, and instead of "grip and go" the .:R completely loses power. Limped to side of road...tried to restart. Acts exactly like out of gas, but tank is almost full. Bummer...and I'm very aggravated at this point.
Called roadside assistance and they sent someone who had it on a rollback in under 30 minutes. Caught a ride with the truck to my job...call the dealership and asked for a ride and loaner. That all worked out, so now I'm calmed down and feel satisfied with the courtesy and service I've received thus far.
BTW, I did have the fuel tank valve recall thing performed a month or more ago. Not going to speculate, though, as to whether this had anything to do with anything. Also, I have never had any problem, hiccups, or anything negative happen to the car (14K on odo) prior to this.
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Yes my door switch is bad, but it hasn't caused any real issues. It works intermittently. I've never really had any issues with the car. I was driving home today about 60 miles, and out of nowhere I lost all power, when I pushed the pedal it would hold rpm and then just slowly fall. At highway speed with the clutch in I could feather it to maintain rpm, but it would misfire really bad. So I pulled off to the shoulder, it was still running. I popped the hood and looked around, nothing seemed out of place. I revved it an it would stumble. I messed with it for a about a minute or so, and hopped back in to go and if I got the rpms up it would do ok. I got it back up to speed and it was fine for about 2 miles. Then the same thing happened. By this time I was close enough to an offramp to get off the highway. I managed to get it off the offramp, and on to the shoulder. It then stumbled and died.
My first thought was alternator, I've been having some issues with my battery, but I thought that was just due to the cold temps. If I jumped it, it would drive and start fine. I only ever had issues if I didn't drive it for a few days, or it got below 10 degrees. It would turn over fine but it would barely catch and then just die. The battery was dead. We jumped it, and still the same issue. It would turn over just fine when attached to the other car. So we sat there for a little while, waiting for a tow truck. I called a few others and then thought about trying something else.
I got a breaker bar out of the trunk, got down on the ground and hit the fuel tank a couple times. Hopped back in the car, and it fired right up first try. Then I drove it home without any issues. It has started a few more times now without a hiccup. So, everything else aside, I have a shorting fuel pump I think. The car has 151k on it, so I should probably expect to replace the pump anyway.
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I was driving up hill last night and the van lost power competely. The car did not die out but I could not get it to move. After it cooled down for 20 minutes or so I was able to move it another half block up hill out of the intersection I was obstructing. It then failed again. I was able to shift it into 'L' to move it to the side. I had it towed home. This morning the battery is not completely dead but the car won't turn over. Sound like the transmission?
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My daughter has a 1995 Grand Prix - 3.1. The car has an intermittent problem that can go 2-3 weeks in between occurrences.
It runs like a top, but will suddenly lose power while driving and die completely. After a while it'll be fine. (starts up again.)
The lights will flicker and give a bit of warning before it dies. I had both crankshaft sensors replaced a month ago and I though that would do the trick.
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Comming back from hunting today my truck suddenly lost power and stepping on the accelearator had no effect at all. We were on the highway thru the mountains but on a fairly level stretch for a few miles. Managed to pull the truck and toy hauler over and the engine was running fine but stepping on the accelerator had no effect. The check engine light came on every time I stepped on the throttle and went out when I released it. It started fine but no throttle response. Switched around a bunch of relays and checked the fuses and still nothing.
Not liking my parking spot i tried to see if it would move down the road at an idle but it would not. Then I thought to try it in 4 wheel low and as the shoulders were soft it wouldn't move forward so tried reverse and went back a foot, forward again and moved a foot and a half. did this several times and all of a sudden the throttle responded, took it out of 4 wheel and it ran fine all the way home. What would have caused this? I was ready to call a tow truck which would have been several hundred dollar bills for where we were and with the trailer
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While I was driving my car suddenly was losing power.I tried to hit the "gas" pedal harder and it didn't react.It stayed on the same gear and after 2-3 seconds it was ok. After 10 minutes it happened again but this time I couldn't do anything. I thought it was the transmission problem so I went into manual mode to shift it down. It didn't work at all - I was shifting down but didn't have power so I had to stop. I stopped put in P turn engine on and everything came back to normal.It's worth mentioning that one time time I had to pull over and I didn't turn the car off. After couple minutes the car started to vibrate and died. I turned on and everything was ok. Fuel filter or is it something else?
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Up until this morning I thought I had almost a perfect car with a potential of lasting for 10 years but this morning, while I was driving on a local road with 35-40mph, so suddenly my car stopped moving and I couldn't even pull over as it completely stopped with no error or any warning/alerts! So, I turned it off and on again, it started working but I was still nervous if it would happen to me again while driving on a freeway but it didn't and I have made to work safely.
Now a question is should I bring it to the dealer today and have them run their diagnostics on their computer to see if anything is wrong with the car engine/ battery/ or anything else or should I just reboot it like we do for computers and go on everytime it happens? It's just little scary to think of its happening during a busy highway driving! I have driven it since July and has about 14K and I have had a good MPG of anywhere between 50 to 60.
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My 05 prius (105k) has been running great. Today I was driving up a mountain, approx 70 mph with ac full blast, when all of a sudden I lost all power. The triangle of death came on.
I immediately stopped the car, tried resetting it and no change. I got it towed. Before the tow, the headlights were on and I asked the guy to turn them off twice as I knew the engine might still be on.
Anyways, it got towed approx 4 miles to my house, and the vehicle was on.
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I have a 2008 Prius with about 95,000 miles. It is bloody cold here. About 4 degrees F when I got up. On the way to work, on the parkway, suddenly the car lost power entirely. Just started to slow down. No reaction when I pressed on the gas pedal. I didn't notice any warning lights. I flipped the gear shift to Drive, and the car accelerated again. About five minutes later, this repeated. For the rest of the trip it was fine, and there were no problems coming home. (Temperatures were still way below freezing in the afternoon when I left work though the car had been sitting in the sun. I don't know if this could be cold-related, but it's never happened before and it hasn't been this cold here for days on end before._
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My Prius C got a faulty fuel gauge and suddenly lost power in the middle of the road. Very dangerous situation.
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My 02 Ex V10 suddenly lost its power steering. And I mean completely, so it was a bitch to get it home. There are no leaks and the reservoir is full. It makes no noise at all when I try and turn the wheel, so it does not even sound like the pump is working at all. Does this sound like the pump or the gear box? Is there an easy way to tell before I just order the pump and hope that is the problem?
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I have a 2001 Mercury Sable with 114k miles. Just bought it and it ran fine for the most part until one day while coming home from work. It was still running but lost a lot of power and wouldn't go fast at all. I took it to my mechanic and he told me that this car has 3 converters on the exhaust system. First of all, I think having 3 is overkill and secondly, I am wondering why these things are so expensive. The one up front that mounts to my manifold is $350 just for the part. The one in the back can be bypassed (legally) but why did they make this system so complex and what are my options at this point? If I found a Sable that was being parted out, could I use the converters from that? Would it have to be the same year?
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My problem is on wed I was driving my car,when I suddenly lost acceleration power, after pulling over to the side of the road I turned off the car and restarted it. However I still had the same problem with acceleration. After a while of trying to get the car to start I called a tow truck and got it towed to the dealer. When I got there they told me it was likely and issue with with a sensor on the gas pedal and the engine. At the dealership I started the car to show them the problem however the car drove perfectly and no engine light came on.
They told me it was most like what they said over the phone the sensors. However on xmas eve they called me and left a voicemail saying the rear cat had went out and taken out both rear exhaust manifolds and it would coast $3000 to fix. My question is how can all that happen without the checking engine light coming on in the car and the car showing no problems while i was driving it and how did they miss it when I had took the car in two weeks earlier for regular maintenance and to correct a drive belt issue due to it walking after I purchased a new drive belt and pulley.
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I have a 2001 Chrysler (Mitsubishi) Sebring Lxi Coupe with the 3.0-liter V6 engine and (in)famous Chrysler A-604 4-speed automatic transmission. Mileage is approx. 115,000. Several days ago, I was on the highway doing 60 mph when the car suddenly, and without making any noise, lost power, as if the engine had quit. When I gave it more gas, the rpm on the tach shot up quickly to 3500, but the car was still losing speed. The Check Engine Light never comes on. Long story short, I pulled over to the side of the road and got the car flat-bedded home. The engine starts and run normally, but the car will not move in any forward gears (drive, first or second) nor in reverse.
The OBD II module is not throwing any codes that are related to a transmission problem. The transmission fluid is not discolored and does not smell or look "burnt". The fluid level is at the full mark on the dip stick. Up to this point, the transmission has performed and shifted flawlessly. I have serviced the transmission regularly every 30,000 miles since buying the car with 60,000 miles on it. I have been reading that this transmission was one of the first to be designed with electronically activated shifting, and has been installed in many models of Chrysler cars, vans, and pickups starting in 1989. Any way to check whether this may be an electrical/electronic problem first before getting a tow to a transmission shop for diagnosis of an internal mechanical failure requiring overhaul or a new trans?
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Description of Problem: 1999 mercury cougar 2.5L V6 automatic trans: I was driving down the road and suddenly lost power. The engine was still running but sounded a little rough so i turned it off. then it wouldn't start. After having it parked for a couple months i started looking ant it and notice that the starter is spinning the flexplate but the harmonic balance isn't turning. It does turn by hand with a socket. After talking to a mechanic i was told a used motor would run. He said i broke the crank or timing chain? I thought if it was the timing chain the harmonic balancer would still turn, he didn't agree. and i thought it was unlikely that the crank would just break driving down the road. What it could be? or how i can narrow it down. If the flexplate or bolts broke off would that cause my problem?
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I don't know what is wrong with my truck. I don't know what this symptoms called, but It felt like it was missing a beat. The engine suddenly lost power for a second or two wile driving. It did this few times. Is it the engine or the transmission? No check engine light is on. 2001 F250 5.4 V8
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I have a 2010 prius with the navigation package in the last month the compass goes berserk and the the navigation gets completely lost. I have done the recalibration and it may work for an hour or a day then just start wondering.
The xm radio works fine and when I get into the system check page by pressing info while turning the light switch from off to side lights four times all the systems say they are OK and the gyro voltage and direction looks good. This problem is with the original map cd and the versionb11.1 cd.
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I was listening to my MP3 CD as usual then suddenly I lost all audio and all I can hear is a pulsating screech "screech... screech... screech... screech..." I lost volume control. Even if I turned off audio it still screeches. Do I have a blown out amp/speaker?
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1999 F150 Transmission Problem. The other day on the way home midway thru a 7 hour trip I stopped for gas, when I was getting back on the fwy, the engine/trans stumbled a bit, the Service Engine Soon light came on and stayed on solid not blinking, and I lost about 250 rpm from high gear at 70 mph like I intentionally turned off OD but I didn't. I made it home the remaining 200 miles and parked it. Tried it today, SES light came on when I started it so Ididn't drive it I just shut it off. The fluid level is good, nice and pink, and no burnt odor, the son-in-law just pulled a "Shift solenoid" code.... what do you think is going on? Is this common?
1999 F150 4x4 5.4 Supercab
Trans code: E (E4OD/4R100??)
This is a GPD/Ford Reman. Trans that was replaced 120,000 miles ago?
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I have a 98 Celica GT convertible that had suddenly lost fifth gear, and what I mean by loosing fifth gear is not that it pops out of fifth or that it will not go into fifth, the gear shift lever goes into the fifth gear position just fine and stays in that position, yet the car responds as if it is in neutral. This is what happened while driving home recently. The first time this happened was within a week or so of having my clutch replaced, so I took it back to the mechanic that replaced my clutch.
Upon investigation he found that the nut that holds fifth gear in was loose. He tightened this nut and it fixed the problem for awhile. This was now over two years ago, and to make a long story short, I eventually ended up having to replace that transmission with another used transmission from a salvage yard. The current transmission has been in the vehicle just over a year and a half with no problems until now. I am getting this same problem again, with no fifth gear.
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The story is that during the last week I noticed that my car was having rough idles when it would first start on a cold morning (16 degrees). I thought I just got a bad batch of gas so I filled it all the way up with new gas and added a fuel stabilizer to it. Everything was going great until tonight on the way home it just stopped running and costed to a stop. I tried to turn it over until the battery died and even replaced the fuel pump relay (#409). Vagcom showed no faults that would explain it. I also noticed that the fuel pump didn't sound like it was priming when I turned the key.
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