I started my R up just a few mins ago only to have the bass completely drop out of the stock speakers. The only thing I've added is a passat dynaudio amp, but that was months ago and I don't crank my speakers really loud or anything...
Yesterday they were on volume 09. I've checked the connectors on the amp, and everything seems to be plugged in correctly.
This morning I'm heading to work and noticed that my local radio station was broadcasting WAAAAYYYYY too much bass. It sounded like I had turned up the bass all the way and turned everything else down. The volume level was reasonable, but the bass was rattling the doors and causing distortion as if the volume was all the way up.
I changed the station and it seemed better when I came back, so I just thought it was a glitch at the radio station. Then it started again. I tried all other means of playing music and they were all affected. Just to see what would happen, I shut off the engine at a light and started it back up. This seems to have corrected the problem. Now I'm nervous though. This is the sort of random malfunction that made me hesitant to buy German.
My car is a 2011 4dr GTI w/autobahn package.
My wife has a 2009 Accent base model. I recently heard a kind of buzzing from the speakers when the bass hits but it does not sound like they are blown, more like something is loose. How do I get to the speakers from above to check things out and see what it looks like?
View 7 RepliesI purchased a 2012 Yaris a few monthes ago, and experienced strange buzzing sounds from the back speakers (on the passenger doors) when playing music with deep low bass tones.
When checking the symptom carefully, it's very difficult to pinpoint the source of the buzzing - sometimes it comes from the doors' plastic, sometimes from the speaker area itself.
Again, this only happens in very low bass tones.
I have another question my front speakers work, they produce vocals and bass. My back speaker only produce bass! NO VOCALS? Why? Is this normal? I only realized this today. I drive a 2006 ford f150 supercab.
View 1 RepliesI just had my '12 GTI's 40,000 mile service done about 2 weeks ago. I put in a K&N air filter the day after the service. The only thing I noticed about the car after service was that I could smell coolant, they either spilled some or its burping some cause it was filled past the max fill line. Outside of that everything was copacetic until yesterday morning.
On my way to the gym with cruise control on ~74 mph on the highway I had sudden power loss, EPC light came on and power returned although felt reduced. When I left the gym it was off and I made it about a mile when under acceleration it hit at about 3k rpm, again sudden power loss and EPC light, power returned reduced. Drove about 5 miles to work and did a little googling with a million results.
When I left work to go home I made it about ten minutes into my drive before it happened. This time the CEL came on. I was able to drive home and back to work again this morning but I keep having power shutters followed by the EPC. I haven't had much time to dig into anything but I checked the connection of the coils and the intake connections with a flashlight at 4:30 this morning. Thinking it might be the MAF only because I recently installed the K&N and have read the oil can kill MAF's and I might stop to get a can of cleaner on my way home to try that route.
IF that doesn't work maybe I can get it on a Vag Com in the next couple days to get it sorted out.
Earlier this evening on the highway while in cruise control I had a strange issue. Going up a slight incline all of the sudden I lost power, my ESP and EPC lights came on, and the engine was running very strange.
It wasn't stuttering but was louder and vibrating a whole lot more than normal. I pulled over and shut the car off for a couple mins, started it up, everything was normal and continued. About an hour later the same thing happened and when I started up the car again the check engine light was on.
I had my room mate scan it when I got back and it came up with ECM and PCM processor errors. Not sure what kind of problems this would be. All the searches on cruise control didn't turn up anything like this. What the problem would be? The cars a turbo'd r32.
What harnesses or adapters do I need to get my some aftermarket speakers plus my aftermarket subwoofer hooked up. I have a 4 channel for the speakers and a mono for the subwoofer.
Trying to figure out whether to go this route or buy the wiring harnesses and dash kit needed for my old pioneer d3 double din HU and hooking up RCA's that way.
At 30,000 and change I had new tires and they did RVU 17D1/07 Crankcase Breather Valve Replacement recall. Ever since then I have notice a decrease in my MPG.
I was getting around 32 MPG (mostly Highway driving) or about 540 miles on a tank. Now I think i am LUCKY to get 28 or about 480.
Could it be the tires? Or is it something with this recall. I went from the Stock Michenlins to Cooper CS4 Touring. I just think 4 MPG would be alot from a tire change.
I have VW99 Passat 1.8L Turbo, automatic with 170K on it.
My car shop changed engine oil yesterday with 4 QTS of Mobile 5W40. Now, when I check my dipstick today, on level surface, the oil level is way too high on dipstick kink [the cross-hatched mark]. I run the engine, shut it off, and let it set for 3 min, but still the level is too high above the Mark. It wets the dipstick almost till the top of its Head.It was reading High when I first checked it, this morning, before starting my car.
It seems the oil is 'overfilled' or showing over filled; and the engine is about to throw it out from "filler cap" where Dipstick goes in the engine. I saw him using 4 cans 1 QTS oil, which I bought, into my car. They did change the "oil filter" at the same time?
Now, my car looses power while driving. When I accelerated from a stop/light, car slows down or limps. The car suffered a sudden loss of power.It runs awful for about a mile but smoothed out after acceleration.It feels like the car is running out of gas for a few seconds, then all of a sudden it kicks in. The car still drives ok though - No error messages/warnings on dash,CEL, no smoke, no hissing. I actually don't see engine oil thrown out or leaking though.
I don't know if the shop drained the "intercooler" while changing the oil, also I know nothing about its importance to my power loss issue. The net search manual/states "The engine oil, above the level, can be drawn into the crankcase ventilation system, and enter the atmosphere via the exhaust system". But it does says about damaging the engine/car.
Should I be worried about the damage to the engine?
On Sunday my son was driving my wife's '03 Passat GLX 2.8 4motion station wagon when he received a "stop engine" warning and noted the temp was climbing past 250. Good lad that he is he stopped immediately and noted much steam and coolant originating at the rear of the engine. My hope is that it's just a hose since there is no coolant or smell in the interior (just went through the nightmare of a heater core on my '96 Jetta!) We had it flatbedded to our home but I haven't had time to make a further investigation and was hoping for some insight from those here as to how I should proceed in diagnosing/repairing this issue.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 Toyota RAV 4 that I have serviced regularly, and it's not due for an oil change for another 1,000 miles. Recently, the oil light started flashing briefly only when I stepped on the brake pedal. I finally checked the dipstick, and it needed 2 quarts of oil. There is no evidence of oil leaks on the ground under the car. It is also not smoking. If it was burning oil, wouldn't there be smoke from the exhaust pipe? If there are no visible oil leaks and it doesn't appear to be burning oil, how else could the oil have disappeared?
View 11 RepliesI just installed a boost gauge and drove the car a little and this is the readings I get. It starts off with 20 inHg and to normal street driving it goes up to 0 and down. However when I pushed it a little, the maximum reading I got was 11-13PSI (High RMP-almost redline). I am a noob in this boost department so Is this readings really accurate or is there something wrong? Recently i had some transmission work done. And since then the gas pedal feels heavier. I was convinced that it is from the new bushings but I feel like this is boost related. Because at 4000 RPM sometimes It suddenly looses the boost (Kick).
View 5 RepliesThis has happened to me three times now. The first time was at a stop sign, the second going 70mph on the highway, and the third time at a stop sign. I will be driving and then all of a sudden the engine loses power. The more I push on the gas, the more the engine wants to die. If the engine stays running after I pull over, it idles very rough, and still if I press the gas, it wants to die. This seems to only happen after driving long distances for maybe an hour or so.
When this happens, if I let the car sit for about an hour, it will start up just fine, idle smooth, and drive normally. This is a 1992 Dodge Dynasty with the 3.3L V6, Fuel Injected engine. The car only has 78,000 miles on it and is in excellent condition. It's such a nice car that I would like to figure out what's going on with the engine because I would like to drive it for a lot longer. So far I have replaced the ignition coil pack, the oxygen sensor, map sensor, fuel filter, and spark plugs an wires.
Took my 850 Turbo out on the freeway today, and when I put the pedal to the floor on the onramp there was a very disconcerting loss of power just as the turbo was really kicking in. No issue under mild to medium boost, but when pushed hard there is a short loss of power/hesitation, almost like a backfire, then boosts again, then the same power loss until I back off on the gas. Cannot get full boost without this happening.
View 7 RepliesI was driving at 60mph and all of sudden rpm drop to zero went back to normal rpm after 5 seconds, pulled over thinking I blew some thing every thing seem normal is this a sensor problem.
2000 dodge ram 1500 5.9l 2wd
Was sitting in my car on my lunch break playing the radio and had my seat heater on, and all of a sudden my radio kinda went staticy and died and my car completely died. Had to power it back down then back up to get it running, battery didn't show very low, but when I went into start mode (non accessory) it immediatly started the ICE and charged.
View 19 RepliesI've been driving my V10 for 3 years now without a problem. The other day, while I was on the Highway in Italy driving at around 140KM/H, I suddenly had a loss of power. I could continue to drive the car, but I had no more tork... I stopped at the next gas station, turn the engine off, turned it on again, and the car drove normally again as before. About 200KM later the same happened again...
I went to check with the dealer - he hooked up the car to the computer - and told me that they had to change both turbos... What I find weird is that when I turn the car off and on again it works again. If the turbos would be defective, they wouldn't work again just by turning the car on and off. I think that it is more a problem with the turbo controller and if that's the case why change both turbo.
Driving in sunny so cal yesterday never a problem with the car just an oxygen sensor- I was cruising along at 75 and all of a sudden the oil light comes on - immediate loss of power and i pull over to the side of the road and shut it down. try to restart and it just clicks.....tugged on the crank through the wheel well and it will not budge...oil is ok and plugs were pulled and they seem fine....oil pump...fuel pump....starter hopefully something simple and inexpensive I hope.....what is the difficulty in changing out the starter and could this be the issue?
View 3 RepliesIt did this funny thing about 4-5 times over a span of about 24 hrs before dying and then won't start. It was like hitting the limit on a speed governed car.....sudden momentary loss of power..and it seemed to be when accelerating if that matters. The thing I'm sure of at this point is that the fuel pump is not coming on when the key is turned, I know that sound well, but also checked it at the external connector with a test light for thoroughness. I also found a blown fuse under the hood which coincided with a little smokey smell inside the car when the fuse was replaced and blew again.
There is no spark as well. My Haynes book says that the PCM is behind the passenger kick panel but I only see the eecv and it doesn't smell burnt. The IFS is good. There is power at the coil packs. Fuel pump relay fuse is good. Is it more likely the ccrm since it contains the fuel pump relay and PCM relay or could it still be the eecv? It feels like one part failed but is causing more than one "problem", no power to fuel pump and no spark.
Ok I got a 1995 toyota corolla 1.8l dx .... So this is my back up car I went out started it up let it set and warm up and took it around the yard to run it a little well it ran fine then all of a sudden it lost all it's power well I finaly got it back to the drive that was only 50ft away took almost 30mins just to get it there. I cut it off let it sit started it back up and still no power well now it won't even start it has new plugs.. Wires.. Cap button.
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