Golf V R32 :: Steering Became Sluggish And Heavy


Mar 10, 2015

Recently had superpro Lca, koni yellows, Pilot super sports and a solid alignment done.

Over the last 2 days it seems that my steering that felt very light after the superpros were installed, has become very sluggish and heavy. There is a bit of "heavy" play in the wheel as well which under the same effort after putting on the PSS, would have tossed me around playfully.

One piece of info I should include is that I took her on a windy road pretty hard on Saturday. Tight hairpin turns that last a couple miles but I ran it 3 times.

Would running her hard though turns make the steering become dead? Is my power steering fluid in need of a change?

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Just this past weekend my wife got her 2010 Golf Highline with the 6-speed tiptronic transmission. Just a quick question about the gas pedal. when it is on "D" it really feels heavy and sluggish when going from full stop to acceleration. the pedal feels so hard and when you step on it feels like its not going at all. but as soon as it goes on 3rd everything seems ok. and then we tried putting it into "S" (sports) mode and everything was really good and quick. but when on this mode you need to be really hard on the gas pedal for it to run smooth. so i guess my question is...is it really like that when driving in the "D" mode??

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Just bought Camry 2011 XLE /37.500 Miles.

When driving this first day everything ran very smooth and very light. After I took it to get State Inspections and Emissions, for the last couple days, the car has been feeling somewhat heavier. I ran it by the shop I went to and they test drove it and said it was fine. The steering seems to be a bit heavy no when I turn. The wheel doesn't set back smoothly at all/stays stuck. The car doesn't seem to run as "light anymore" The wheel feels very heavy/dragging at times when steering from right to left.

I heard that spraying Tri-Flow lube with teflon on the Universal (U-Joint)/steering column will work wonders in making it smoother.

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1-My Ex steering is very heavy and some times kicking, I don't have any fluid leaks and my steering shock looks nice and clean, I did check and lubricate the ball joints.

2- how did the big 3 wire upgrade in v10, I need some pictures for grounding wires locations like engine to body, battery to body, chassis to body. Because I got a new 300 amp alternator to juicing my truck stuff and to power up the 3000w power inverter.

3- The engine exhaust fumes is so strong making my eyes burning ← . What I did is new coils pack, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter , cleaned the injectors , checked the exhaust for leaks, cleaned the throttle.

But it's no different, I had this problem sense Day1 .

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My friend has a 06 Prius with about 85,000 miles.

Ever since he purchased the car (used) at about 67,000 miles, I've noticed that the steering wheel is slow to return to center and the steering lacks the "springy feel" of the low-mileage Priuses that I have driven. I noticed abnormal tire wear on the car so I suggested 4 new tires and an alignment-- which was done without any improvement. The front toe was set to 0, and the rear toe is minimal (0.05 and 0.1 on the LR and RR, respectively). However, I did not have a zero-point calibration performed at the time of the alignment.

There is no obvious damage or wear to the suspension, as far as I know. Recently though, the steering wheel has decided to clock itself to the right so I know it needs another alignment. It has only been 17k since the last one. Are there any parts that I should consider replacing before doing this alignment?

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Both front wheels had toe-in over 1/2". Makes you wonder if this is due to spring settling.

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santa fe 2009 - 77000KM - AWD

Few months ago , I notice that the steering getting heavy after driving like 15Kms. At the morning it's normal , and while driving also normal , Just heavy when the vehicle at low speed. I checked the Fluid , it was very dark , SO i changed it with new oil , but after like week , it be heavy all the times , also some noise sound at the power steering bump when move the steering .

I check at work shop, the advice me to change the fluid again, since they assumed that the fluid not suitable for the vehicle.

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I own a 2002 SC430. I just brought it into the Lexus dealership because most of the warning lights were on, speedometer was not working, steering was sluggish, skid control wasn't working etc etc. It felt dangerous to drive. It only has 57,000 miles on it. It was just brought in for a full service three months and 360 miles ago. They said it also needed some engine repairs at that time. They did engine work and the service and we got a bill for over $2000. The dealership told me that the current problem is due to a bad ECU and it would cost $2,300 to replace it. They told me it has nothing to do with the engine work they did and it is not covered under any warranty. Is it possible that the ECU could have been damaged when they performed the engine work? Also a few years back the dealership installed new engine mounts. Could that have caused the problem with the ECU? Also can I purchase a second hand ECU?

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To make a long story short, i had to have my front bumper replaced in May due to an accident but there was no mechanical damage to the car. They did an alignment to the car just to be safe.

Earlier this week, I'm not sure why I noticed that the steering was a little tight/heavy when turning left or right sometimes. It wasn't a major challenge just a little more strength then when driving straight.

Today, I took the car to the dealer and they ran all of the tests and everything came up fine except there was a code that the hybrid battery had been disconnected during the repair while sitting at the shop which created some sort of code that they cleared. The tech mentioned that this may have created the steering issues since the car may have thought their was low power.

After, I did notice it was a little better but still a little tight at times. I took the car back to the dealer and had the tech drive the car and he said the steering was normal for the car. Are they missing something or is it that I forgot how the car drives?

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It seems the piston is not retracting under normal operation so causing the binding. As to the nuts coming loose; I think it is because of the heat from the wheel; as if you apply heat to tight nuts and bolts they would normally come loose - that is what mechanics seems to do when they find nuts and bolts are difficult to undo.

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