Golf V R32 :: Slow Shifts At Redline From 1st To 2nd?
May 12, 2008
When I launch the car in S or M and let it auto-shift from 1st to 2nd, the shifts are weak and long. It feels almost like a conventional automatic / torque converter, if you know what I mean. If I force a shift with the paddle or stick at around 6-6.5k, the shifts are (usually) solid and quick.
This only happens in the red and I'm wondering if it happens with all of our cars. I haven't timed it yet, so I don't know if it's any slower or faster. It just *feels* slow. It kinda sucks because DSG is touted as being super fast and crisp but it ends up feeling like my friends' Volvo S60 when I flog it.
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So a couple months ago I noticed that when I floor the gas, my tachometer never peaks over 6500 before shifting. I have tried this in drive and sport mode along with manual mode. In all three it never lets me get above 6500 before shifting.
When I had the stock tune, I could get to 7000 no problem. After I got the UM combo last year it would go to 7200 without any fuss. (on a side note, some other little electrical quirks have happened recently around the same time I noticed the rev issue. When I would go to park the car and turn off the ignition, my windows/sunroof would stop opening or closing when I opened the door.
Now they continue to open or close regardless of the door being opened. Additionally, I have had some problems unlocking my trunk. I have to press and hold the unlock button on my remote for it to open. It used to open if I pressed unlock twice but not anymore. These issues probably have NOTHING to do with my rev issue but I figured I would include in case these symptoms were part of a greater electrical issue)....
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I know some of us drag race our cars from time to time. I have a fair bit of bolt ons and I was just wondering what I would run so I had her out 3x yesterday. Impressed with my trap speed of almost 100mph on an 85-degree day w a stock intercooler but not my times, so much so that I don't even want to say them.
I was shifting a little after redline as quick as possible and leaving at like 3000-4000 rpm.
Is my clutch slipping or where am I going wrong?
the suspension is mostly stock as are mounts. I am sure I will get better with practice but this was a really sticky track so I really cant blame my tires
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I have a 1989 Toyota Celica ST and I am having a few concerns with my engine. The engine has less than 50k miles on it, and I took it to the mechanics a week ago and was told nothing further than what I had done (tune up, oil change, change of filters) would be needed for the engine to run optimally.
Even after taking my car in, I am still experiencing a few problems.
1) Sporadic Idle - When the car is idling, the RPM shifts around. At some points, it will be so loud that it sounds as if engine parts are clanking together, and at some points it is so quiet that I wonder if my car is on.
2) Slow Start Up - Sometimes when I start my car, the engine sounds as if only 2/4 of the cylinders are running..then, after about 30 seconds, the car will turn off. This has never occurred when starting my car the first time of any day, and has never turned off while I have been in transit.
3) Problem Starting Up after putting in gas - Whenever I fill up my tank from about 1/4 full, it takes my car at least 3-4 minutes to idle smoothly.
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I recently traded in my 2013 Audi TTRS in a very limited edition color. For my 2008 Lexus ISF... With 71k Miles. And I feel as if the car is very sluggish and up shifts are slow even with sport mode on! My buddy has an ISF as well and he even said mine shifts slower than his. I was wondering if maybe the previous owner skipped a few key maintainence things to cause such an issue. And yes I know how to drive a care, yes it's in sport mode and yes the vehicle is warmed prior to stupidity. The last recorded maintenance was at 60K miles.
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Got 2004 v10 and my truck shifts hard into 2nd gear when starting off slow. If I take off at a faster pace it does not do it.
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I have a 97 f150 4x4 with the 4r70w and it shifts a bit slow between first and second. So I've been doing my research and figured id try to put new 1-2 accumulator piston and springs in. What are the part numbers so I don't order the wrong stuff.
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I have a 2002 Camry 4 cyl LE with a 4spd automatic transmission. Recently I have been experiencing slow long shifts from 1-2 and 2-3. It's as if it is coasting in neutral for a couple of seconds before finally engaging the next gear. I experience this sensation only after the vehicle has cooled down. The transmission will start to shift like normal within 3 miles of driving. I have only experienced this recently as the weather has started to drop.
I have not changed my transmission fluid much as it is a synthetic and Toyota claims it will last the life of the car. I did a drain and fill at 90K mi. The car currently has 150K mi on it and after experiencing these problems I did a drain and fill, drove the car 10 miles and repeated with another drain and fill. This seemed to have worked on the first day after doing this but now it is back to the slow long shifts. I am thinking of cleaning the strainer and taking the car in to have the transmission flushed. Is there a way to tell if my transmission is failing?
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I am first time ford owner of a 2003 ford f150 super crew fx4 with the 5.4 Triton and lately when I accelerate hard and it down shifts. It shifts excessively hard or when your going slow and the have to accelerate it also shifts really hard i dont know if it is the diff the U-joints or if its the transmission.
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My friend has a 2006 F-450 and he said the Tow/Haul light blinks and the shifts are real slow. He has stopped towing now and it still drives.
I have read everything from toasted tranny to chaffed wire harness across tranny crossmember to the TFT sensor. My guess is the TFT sensor given his symptoms. If I am right the sensor is just to the rear of where the dipstick comes thru the tranny case. 1/4 turn and pull it out. Kinda like a bulb I guess.
Another question, is it necessary to replace the harness while in there as well? Is the Connection listed below the harness I am asking about? I found these parts on a thread from here:
Sensor (1): 3C3Z-7H141-AA;
Connection (1) 4C3Z-7G276-AA;
Gasket (1): 3C3Z-7C155-DA;
Fluid (10): XT-6-QSP
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I have a '93 Ford Tempo 2.3 liter with a/c ....it OVERHEATS ... love the car, but when I sit in traffic, the temp needle goes up almost to the redline, I have to shut the car off .... it happens all year round ... if I'm driving up a hill the temp starts climbing, if I turn the heat OFF the temp climbs, in summer when I put A/C on the temp climbs ... I've put 3 Thermostats in, a new Water Pump, there are NO leaks in Radiator, I've replaced Hoses ... no I'm not a mechanic, I've brought it to garages ... other than the overheating issue it's a good lil car, uses maybe 1 QT of oil every other month ... when I lived in SC had the same car....SAME PROBLEM...had a 1995 Windstar that did the same thing, replaced radiators etc nobody could figure it out, or didn't want to....what is it with Fords!
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Car: 2006 sonata GLS V6, 62,000 mi
Abstract of symptom: Delayed cooling fan kicking in
Full Symptom description: 2 weeks ago, I was stuck in slow-going traffic. All of the sudden, I found the engine temperature gauge was pointing at the redline, which had never happened before! Then I was about to make an emergency stop on the shoulder, the gauge was falling back to the midline within 30 seconds. As I kept driving in the traffic, the gauge just fluctuated between mid-high to redline. There was a moment I had to stop and shut the engine down, then 1 minute later I restarted the engine, the gauge turned normal again: a little bit under the midline. Then the traffic improved, and the gauge stayed calm all the way home.
Then I noticed that the overheat problem only happens on slow-going/stop traffic; in another word, when I am driving down the interstate @60 mph, engine temperature is always perfect. (a little bit under the midline) At the parking lot, I triggered the problem to re-occur by idling while I was watching the cooling fan--and I found the fan didn't kick in until gauge hit mid-high. After fan kicked in, the gauge fell back to midline, but seemed never to the perfect status. (a little bit under the midline).
Differential: Coolant quality and quantity are good; no visible leak on radiator/hose; when I started a cold engine in the morning and turned on A/C at the same time, the fan kicked in immediately. And it seems that keeping A/C on can prevent overheat from happening, even in slow-going traffic.
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Lately I have been driving in the Sport Mode more often. I have noticed that when accelerating from a stop it revs to just below the redline before shifitng, is this normal?
I also notice that when slowing down or coming to a stop, it has a "hurky jurky" feel. As if it was downshifiting way to early. is this normal?
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I have a 4.0 6 cyl. Jeep wrangler manual transmission. When the jeep is driven in higher RPM close to redline the jeep sputters a bit (doesn't have full power at or close to redline). Is this a governor or does the jeep have a problem? I do not redline often at all. however i live in the mountains and need to travel up steep pass for 1-2 miles every few months.
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I test drove a Skoda Yeti 1.8TSI 4x4 DSG and noticed when driving at full acceleration while shifting through 1 to 2 it goes into the red, past the redline.
Then I decided to test it in my Tiguan 2.0TSI 4Motion 6-speed auto and it went past the redline into the red before it changed.
Now because it happened in 2 vw-group cars with 2 different transmissions it makes me think it is normal.
Tiguan_2.0TSI
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I have 99 f350 v10 4x4 and trans shifts great under light rpms but 2-3 shifts very hard. At wide open from about 35 mph it will shift down and take off like a bullet but wont shift until I lift my foot and then it bangs hard from 2-3. All other gears are smooth. I did some searching and have found some threads saying it could be an accumulator spring that is broken? Truck has 115,000 miles on it. love the truck but want to fix this before it does some damage.
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Almost a month of driving it and my 1st to 2nd shifts are hit or miss in a way. Because they'll be nice and smooth one day but the next, I end up with revs that hang. Like I shift up at 3k and they just stay there for a good second and then drop.
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Got my shifter in yesterday installed it today, had a few throwbacks but Jim was able to iron them out, except for one. I can go through all my gears, even reverse, but when I put it into "1st" it puts me in 3rd and it's sluggish taking off. I'm going to take it all apart tomorrow and try it again.
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I have a 2011 GTI DSG. Is it normal when I go steep downhill the DSG to shift from 6th in 3rd gear? I am asking that because when I go downhill I slow down by braking then my DSG shifts from 6th in 3rd and I look at my RPMs jumping from 2000 to 3500 and I can feel the car trying to slow down with the engine. Is this normal for DSG or I have to visit my precious Dealer. I know it have to downshift but isn't that a little aggressive?
Also I have 34K on the clock. This is my second VW but first with DSG.
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My brother has a 2005 MKIV Jetta 1.8T with the auto transmission. He called me this morning saying that his check engine light came on this morning (a regular occurrence; it's not flashing) and the car is 'shifting funny.' He said that the car is not shifting out of first gear until about 3000 rpm, and when it does it's a 'hard shift' with an audible clunk/thump, then it shifts fine after that. He's has a number of small issues with this car lately, but nothing strange with the transmission.
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When I come to a stop in S mode theres sometimes a noticeable thud as the transmission shifts down. Is this something I should be concerned about or want to try to fix?
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