Golf V R32 :: Shudder When Move Forward From Stop
Mar 14, 2008
When I am stopped and remove my foot from the brake, the car shudders as it moves forward. This happens when I do not give it any throttle. The idle forward is jerky...like it pulses. It feels like when you let the clutch out too slow on a manual trans. The DSG in all it's techno-glory should be able to release it's clutch(s) smoothly one would think? It happens when I am waiting in line at a stop sign or in traffic...anytime I need to idle forward slowly. I've been driving it for less than a week...it has 320 miles and I'm keeping it under the limits for break-in (BORING). Anyway, the thought of taking it for service at this point is depressing..
View 15 Replies
Advertisement
I have a '90 Bonneville SSE and after coming to a stop at a red light on the highway, when the light turned green the car wouldn't move forward. There were no odd noises, the car had been in cruise control and there had been no problems up to that point. The car shifted crisply, there was no obvious slippage or hesitation going into gear.
I can feel the car engage in both drive and reverse, but it won't move at all.
View 5 Replies
Here's the story and unfortunately no happy ending so my VW started rubbing on the front right side a lot, causing my tires to rip on the front right end. After a while of sitting in the garage i finally decided to go and get a new tire for the car
on the way to the tire shop i noticed some very weird squeaking, i figured it was from the spare tire but it continued even on the new tire. That same night heading to the gym, the R started jerking while driving, almost as if i was pressing the brakes while driving
eventually the car just locks all the tires out of no where, i barely manage to pull into a side street and i could not even make it more than 4 feet from the curb forward. A friend of mine stopped by that saw me, he pulled a cable that seemed to have been wrapped around my axle, said it might of been causing the problem. As i drove away, maybe half a mile more, the car locks up entirely again, this time unable to even get to the side of the street it locked up completely in the middle of an intersection. now here is where it gets really strange. Even in neutral the car refuses to go forward, it was on a hill, in neutral and the car refused to move. So i attempted to push it a little, in drive, i pushed on the gas. it almost feels like the car is setting up for launch control, like the brakes are being held down and it moves about 6-10 feet and grinds to a halt, same in reverse. It took us almost 20 minutes to get it up on a trailer and another 20 to get it into the garage just going 2 steps forward and 1 back the whole time.
I have heard anywhere from transmission to drive train, to transfer boxes and axles to even a warped rotor causing this. Where to start?
View 4 Replies
My drivers seat wont disengage from the track on the right side rail next to the console.
Any shot from the manual before I take it apart?
View 14 Replies
My drivers seat won't disengage from the track on the right side rail next to the console.
Looking for a shot from the manual before I take it apart?
View 5 Replies
I have a 2004 2.0L Jetta with a 5 Speed manual transmission.
When shifting into third gear sometimes I push the shifter forward and it does not want to move all the way forward. It feels like I am pushing the shifter knob against a wall, or more accurately the bottom of the shift that pulls the cables feels like it is hitting a wall. If I pull it back out and press it in hard it will go into place sometimes.
This also solves the problem: While the shifter is mid shift into third, at the wall/ at the point of resistance, I let off the clutch slightly to give the flywheel some friction. This rolls the transmission a bit and allows third gear to slide into place.
I have experience with a MK4 Audi TT 1.8T that cam with a 6-SPD and it at had a 1-2 and 2-3 synchronizer issue (The one where the nipples are worn and it grinds at higher RPMS because they can no longer make a firm handshake). The issue I am experiencing is not that.
Could it be the transmission cables? Could it be some other cogs in the transmission? - If so does this mean I need to buy a used one? My car has 180K miles on it with the original clutch.
View 5 Replies
I'm new here and I am having issues with my Lumina. It is a 93 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.1L 6 cylinder and has 192K miles on it. It has had one owner for the past ten years that I know for a fact.
Here's what happened. I was coming back home (2hr trip) The brakes had started making that roaring sound on the way down and had gotten worse when I got ready to make the trip home. Okay so I know the brake pads needed to be changed. No big deal. Well going down the road at 65mph I round a curve and my car starts making this REALLY LOUD grinding clattering noise. It took me forever to get it stopped. I will still in the road and I needed to get it out bc it was right around a curve. So I put it in drive and it wont move. So I put it in reverse and it moves just fine with no problems and no noises made. After backing it out of the road I tried to put it in drive. It moved forward a few inches and stopped like something was binding it up.
So here's the problem.. it will move in reverse with no problems at all and only creeps a couple of inches forward then stops. The harder you press on the gas the more it tries to lurch forward but will not move.. like it's caught on something.
We changed the rear brakes on it. Discovered that the driver side rear rotor and caliper were broke beyond repair so we replaced those too. Still the same.. moves forward a lil bit and stops but will go in reverse just fine. We don't seem to think its the tranny bc it pulls hard and seems to not have any problems pulling.. but its like something is bound up somewhere. That is the best way I know how to explain this situation.
View 8 Replies
My trailblazer will not move in reverse , and will barely move forward, i checked transmission fluid hot and it's not even on the dipstick but when it was cold. it was?? Do I add more or what?..
View 9 Replies
Picked up my MK6 GTI DSG last Saturday. I have noticed a slight shudder when braking and coming to a gentle stop. At first I thought it may be the brakes bedding in so I kept it over the weekend. By today there's still no change. Is it normal for DSG transmission stop like this? Because I have never driven DSG transmission.
View 11 Replies
2002 1.8t Jetta Wagon with the automatic transmission. They've had it for about a week now and we've been trying to iron a few problems out. Mostly cosmetic until the last couple days.
The coil pack harness is trash. I bypassed a couple of the extreme cracked wires in attempt to keep it going until the new one comes in hopefully at the end of this week. We put new plugs in but only afterward did we find out that NGK or VW is the way to go. We put autolite iridiums in.
New fuel filter, however, the line connecting the tank to the filter will not click into place completely. We are able to start/drive the car without the line popping off from the pressure, but you just have to tug on it with your hand to get it off, no need to depress the clip.
The car seems to run better cold. Once it is warmed up and you've been driving around town for 10-15 minutes is when the shuddering starts. It ONLY dies when in Drive or Reverse while at a complete stop. The idle drops down to 400 rpm or so, you can't rev the motor/drive. Sometimes it will come back up to normal and you can go, sometimes it will go back and forth but you can't get any power to the wheels. Sometimes it will drop the RPMs and shudder at 400 for a couple seconds then just die. It always starts right up without hesitation. In park/neutral the idle is still slightly erratic, occasionally bumping up to around 1300 rpms for a second or two then back to around 900 or so.
When we bought the car, we test drove it and it was fine. Of course that is how it works out. They drove the car for about a week. In that time, it shuddered and died once, and would occasionally shudder at a stop light but there was no issue driving it or loss of power when accelerating.
What I'm wondering is if we should go ahead and order the R8 coil pack and spark plug kit from HSTuning. I'm hoping that the harness fixes the issue, but if it could be cheap spark plugs or a coil pack going out, I'd like to get it all done at once. My main concern is the possibility that it could be the transmission. The symptoms feel like loss of power, not slipping, but still, I'm worried that maybe it could be the issue.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2010 GTI with 70K miles. At @ 40K the clutch began to exhibit sort of a slight sudder, and squeak when the car was fully warmed up, but only from starting from a stop on a steep uphill incline. The dealer could not duplicate the problem when routine maintainence was performed, At the 70K maintainence, they could duplicate the problem, and have told me that a new clutch from flywheel on is needed. The Diagnosis was $90 and could not have included any mechanical inspection. One of the Techs told me that there is a list of VIN's that VW apparently identified as having potential clutch issues. My thoughts are:
Even though the car is past the 60K powertrain warranty, the problem was brought to the dealers attention at @40K.
If the car is on the list, VW already knew there could be issues.
I feel that under the circumstances VW could be expected to cover 1/2 of the repair, since the car now has 70K.
Other questions if VW has no interest in working with me:
Can the flywheel be resurfaced? What would the approximate cost for labor to replace the clutch by an Independent garage? The car operates as usual, just with the one issue. I would like to have repair done fairly soon.
View 5 Replies
I have an 03 vw Jetta 1.8t with around 100,000 miles and I recently ran into a problem with the car jolting, or slipping when I get on it hard. And also when I'm sitting at a stop light it will jerk forward like it wants to go. I've tried a few things like cv axels and some other things but I'm just hoping it's not the tranny.
View 9 Replies
Twice today with cooling temps (45 during the day, closer to 30s on way home) while shutting down after being put in park my Prius did the "lurch forward and shudder." This is something new! Fuel has been purchased consistently from the same Shell station, she's garaged at night and MPGs are averaging 45... OK but nowhere near my great warm weather mileage. We are at close to 2200 on the odometer if my memory is working right - 2012 4 version. Happened once at the bank after work, once in the garage, level ground.
Not sure what is going on... this is new to me with a new car....
View 19 Replies
My 2004 Lariat with 110,000 miles has a shudder feeling when I back up or go forward in low. This only happens when I first take off, as far as I can tell. Would this be transmission clutches slipping or rear end clutches slipping, or something else? What test can I do to isolate the problem?
View 8 Replies
The car is a 2000 Intrigue with 3.5L engine.
The problem is: about once a month the gas pedal won't go down when trying to move forward after the car has come to a full stop. Feels like I'm stepping on a rock when I step on the pedal. Then I tap on the pedal with my foot a few times and the pedal will go down smoothly, car accelerates and everything feels normal until it happens again.
Where to look for the interference if that is what it is? Also,I tried to cause this hard pedal to happen & have been unable to do so.
View 3 Replies
2004 BMW 330i 140k miles.
We first noticed this problem a year or so ago. At first, it happened only on cool mornings if the car had been parked outside. The cold car would require 3-4,000 RPM to move, forward or reverse. After about one minute or 3-4 blocks, the transmission worked perfectly at the touch of the throttle for the rest of the day.
It only happens about half the time. Other times, even if cool and after being parked for days, the transmission engages normally from idle and up.
Once recently, it deviated from this pattern. After sitting overnight, it started and pulled into the garage normally. I shut it off for a couple of minutes to place ramps in front of the tires and restarted the car. It did not want to move on the second start. It took 3500 RPM to climb the ramps. That was scary. The car has never suddenly engaged, but if it had suddenly engaged at that moment, it would have shot me through the front of the garage.
Last week I took it to the transmission specialty shop with the best reviews in town. As life would have it, he kept it three days, driving it four times, and it worked perfectly each time he drove it. Fluid looks fine (replaced at 120k miles) and fluid level is perfect. No codes stored in transmission computer.
I thought it was intermittently draining the torque converter until this last time when it failed after being shut off for only a couple of minutes.
The transmission guy is not interested in rebuilding the transmission even if I wanted to try it. He worries that because he does not know what is causing the problem.
View 3 Replies
1997 ford f150 automatic 4x4 was perfectly fine till today ,no slipping no warning nothing.pulled in the driveway and about 30 minutes later had to run out.the truck tried and pulled like it wanted to go while in drive but wouldn't.then i tried it in reverse and went fine like nothing is wrong.i put it back into drive accelerated for a minute then it went for about 15 miles.while at a red light tried to go and it wouldnt move but was able to put it in reverse to back out of the lane.so i had it tow roped back home and halfway there while accelerated about 10 miles into it it caught and ran fine till i slowed down.at home i changed the tranny filter and fluid.no foul smell,the fluid looked perfect,no metal nothing in the tranny pan,i tried to put it in 2wd and 4wd to see if it would go and still did nothing.after accelerating the gas a minute it pulled and tried to move forward but nothing.
View 9 Replies
The gear shift works fine, and we lifted the hood and saw that the mech. arm IS working when we shift. However, the van will not move into any gear. won't go forward, reverse, etc... it acts like it isn't shifting.
i was driving down the highway, and noticed it wasn't accelerating and stepped on the gas.. .and nothing. I stopped the van, put in park, turned it off. Started it again, and put in D and wouldn't go, just engine revved. then put in reverse and same thing... didn't move but engine revved.
View 3 Replies
I have an 06 Montana sv6 that clunks when I start to move forward or reverse. Not when I put it in gear but as I start to move. It also does it when I take off from a stop sign. It doesn't make any noise while driving or turning though.
View 1 Replies
2003 Maxda 6 automatic transmission with 167k miles and in the past 2 days has been slow to move forward when placed in the drive position. Only happens when first starting after sitting cold all night and after sitting all day after work. The fluid level is good and clean with no "burnt" smell nor signs of metallic particles. Are the bands getting loose? If so, are they adjustable without removing transmission? Do they have to be replaced and at what cos? Is there another issue occurring?
View 4 Replies
2008 Sonata 4Cyl
My Driver Seat Does not move Forward any more. It will go back, up & Down Just not Forward.
Is there a Seat Reset Switch somewhere I don't know about ? How do I troubleshoot this?
View 7 Replies
