Bought the car with 6900 miles so maybe the mod was already done? When I look done the tailpipe with a flashlight, the flapper is opened, with the car idling or even shut off. Shouldn't it be closed when idling? The hose is intact, but I know you can do the mod and it can look intact.
View 4 RepliesWhat is the exact conditions under which the flapper is open? To my ears, it sounds like the only time there is a noticeable change in the exhaust note is when you are in 'S' mode. Is this correct?
View 8 RepliesWhen my car is idling(usually with the A/C on) my car seems to shut off randomly. There is a hissing noise that comes right below the cluster or by the ignition. Stepping on the gas will make the noise go away but will come back when idling. There has been times when I have turned off my car by just rolling down the windows. Usually when I lock the car with the remote, the horn sounds really low and weak. There are also times when my passenger door does not unlock with the key remote.
I have no aftermarket electronics installed in my car but just a usp test pipe. I have scanned for codes and this is what I got:
P0430-Catalytic Converter System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0420-Catalytic Converter System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
I am assuming these codes have nothing to do with the type of short I have but the usp I have installed.
Here is a video: [URL] ....
I DID NOT turn off the car. It shut off by itself.
I did the flapper mod on the exhaust... pulled the hole out, put a screw in at the end of the hose and then capped off the inlet where the hose would plug into. So have doing that I honestly could not tell a difference. The car sounded amazing when turned on after sitting awhile b/c it was idling just above 1K before it went below and sounded normal.
Also, having my car next to a MK4 R32 with the flapper, the Mk4 sounded much better and louder with the same mod done to stock systems. It is very simple and to the point and with not really hearing much of a difference with it done and then a MK4 sounding 10x better got me thinking and I wanted to ask
I have the three way flapper switch and lately when I would start the car cold with the switch in the stock position I would hear a strange rattling/vibrating sound coming from the rear of the car then the other night I was trying to creep home and the flapper wouldn't close and still won't close no matter what position the switch is in. I looked and everything looks fine, the vacuum line is still connected and everything. Could this be a problem in the vacuum system or a blown fuse? Solenoid problem? I've never heard of this before....
View 13 RepliesMy buddies 01 Ex will shut off the dome light after a short time with any or all the doors open. My 02 Ex will never shut the dome light out unless all doors are closed.
I guess I'm headed for the override switch but wanted to confirm before if I did that there wasn't an issue with something other component.
I am usually on 6.0 site and don't know much about a 5.4 gasser, hope to get some tech info. My buddy was driving to my house yesterday and his 06 F-150 with a 5.4 liter just shut off while driving. He got it restarted on first try, all engine vitals normal. I sent him to Advance Auto Parts and they pulled codes; P-2112 and P-2104 and throttle actuator stuck closed. Engine is running fine and he has driven it about 100 miles since yesterday with no problems. 06 F-150 5.4 liter 58,000 miles.
View 3 RepliesOk so long story short, my Viper 2 way alarm, instead of the brain being wired to each of the 4 doors individually, the installer ran 1 wire to the dome light. seems to work fine as far as arming/disarming/locking/unlocking, but since the dome light stays on for 10 seconds or whatever after the door is shut.
When I arm it, the 2 way remote says "door open" because the light is still on so it thinks a door is open. this eventually times out and all the sensors arm, but theres a long delay. it arms fine and no alerts pop up if i lock the doors first from the outside keypad on the door, making the lights go off, then hit arm on the viper, and everything is good to go.
can i change it so no matter what, as SOON as i shut the door, the light goes off? i want there to be NO delay, if possible. if not, i may need to just have the installer run a wire to each door and take the single run to the dome light off, as it is sorta annoying to me.
I have a 2001 Ford F250 with 7.3L engine. It has 150,000 miles on it and ran like a top when I bought it four weeks ago. Had it inspected by a diesel mechanic, who gave me a thumbs up, said it was throwing some glow plug codes which I could address later on, and had an oil leak by the ICP sensor. The CEL was on, so I paid a diesel mechanic from a different shop put in a new ICP sensor. I drove it home 14 miles, parked it for about an hour, drove it 2.5 miles to the ranch where I keep my horses, and the truck completely shut down while idling. The batter light when on, and the truck went dead and rolled to a stop. The truck would crank over but not start. I was able to drag it and park it at the ranch, and got it start right up and drove it home in limp mode, sputtering, and trying to die.
Called my original mechanic, and drove it in to look at it. I addressed the glow plug codes with new glow plug controller install, replaced the wiring harness underneath the valve cover, to address any possible shorts. Drove it back out the ranch after bringing it home, and it died in the same exact spot. Was able to make it start and was able to limp it home. Tried to deliver it to the mechanic to look at again, stopped at the ranch on the way, and the truck died completely, couldn't get it to start. Let it cool a bit, still didn't start.
Called for a tow, and the tow truck driver couldn't get it start. Got it to the shop,and it started right up. It has roughly a quarter tank of fuel, and it sounds like it can't get fuel into the engine after it dies. The mechanic is not any codes on it, and can't get it to mess up on him. I am starting to think that it is the angle or speed of the driveway leading up to the ranch. I have to let it idle and slow before making a sharp right to cross over train tracks. I am terrified of having it die on me while I am driving it.
I had this problem a few times in the past. Sometimes my 1992 Buick Century will shut off for no apparent reason while idling. When I restart it, the engine will race for a few seconds before slowing down to normal idle speed. Could this be caused by a glitch in the car's computer?
View 5 RepliesAn MIL light came on the dash the other week while driving. Dealer cleared the error code but next morning it returned. Car is now in the shop to have the flapper motor and canister can replaced. Get it back tomorrow, Got '08 Jetta 2.5 as a loaner. I will run out of warranty in another couple of weeks(48100 mi. on it now).
View 10 RepliesSo the other day I went to close my windows and sunroof, I turned the knob to close on the sunroof and it went complete closed then opened it self all the way... Tried many times.. Could it need the switch going bad?
View 4 RepliesA little background info: 2012 .:R. After about 6 months bought an APR CBE. Had no issues. Another few months go by and I bought a VWR intake. No
Issues. Another few months go by and I decide to get a reflash to APR Stage 1. Take it down to the authorized dealer they have HPFPs in stock so I say what the he'll do stage 1+. drove the car for a bit felt and sounded amazing. Go eat. Come out and car won't start. I'm getting fault displays for ESC and AFS. Tried disconnecting battery to reset to slot 1 which is stock setting. Didn't work. My radiator fan is kicking on with the key in on but the engine off. I'm not sure if I locked myself out or if the ECU is fried. I tried toggling settings nothing works as the instructions say. Had it towed to the dealership. Guy says it may cost a lot if the ECU is damaged. APR is closed. Their dealer here is closed. I have to wait until Monday to find anything out.
I just shaved my hatch on my gti I am using a gas door popper to open the hatch and it works good my question is that when the hatch is closed I have the light on the dash saying the hatch is open how do I get rid of it what do I have to do.
View 3 RepliesHave a sunroof that rattles when closed while going over bumps? I use my fingers to lift up on it and its barely budging, also floors are soaked....
View 3 RepliesMy 2 door Golf has an issue.
Door closes, latches, door switch is activated (no chime, no interior lights on, all seems normal.)
From the outside it is not sitting flush to the body. From the inside I can hear a lot of road noise.
I inspected the hinges, weather stripping, door jamb, no obvious problems. I have slammed the door and pressed very firmly. At best I can get it closed, but I can pull it back 'open' very easily.
Sounds like I have a faulty door latch but need to confirm this before I start tearing into it??
I noticed today that my hood is not actually latched in the fully closed position - Hood sits like it's closed, but I can simply lift it up to the popped position without pulling the hood release. Secondary latch is still fine so it stays closed, but I'm in a bind:
So first question -If I cannot fix it, is it safe to drive as is 3.5 hours back home?
Second question - is there a way to get it to latch even temporarily, keeping in mind that the only tools I have are standard screwdrivers and a pair of pliers?
Latch appears to be functioning fine and I can lock a screwdriver in it no problem. I read some threads implying the latch might need to be raised, but as far as I can tell it's already positioned all the way up.
Pictures .....
My sunroof opened on the highway today with the switch in the closed position. Being a Seattleite, this could create a very wet condition in the cabin! I have owned the car for two years and have never experienced this before.
View 8 RepliesSo after the long saga of trying to get my 03gti VR6 running, I have come across the STRANGEST behavior I have ever seen in a car. Here's a little background. Two weeks ago driving in a snowstorm my car started sputtering and then died. Left me stranded on the side of the road. Towed it to my buddies house (he's a master tech for Lexus) and tried to figure out what was going on. It wasn't throwing any codes. I replaced the fuel pump relay and that didn't fix anything. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't priming when I opened the door. So I replaced the fuel pump. Now it primes when you open the door. Got it started, but it wouldn't stay running for more than 10 seconds, it was acting like it was running out of gas. Even tried disconnectig the battery and touched the pos and neg together. Still to no avail.
After a week of trying to figure it out, I tried starting it with the door closed. Now the damn thing runs. BUT. Here's the strange thing. It will only run if the drivers door is closed. If you open the door, it kills the power to the fuel pump. If you leave the door open, it'll eventually die after roughly 10'secs. If you get out and close the door, it'll stay running. I'm guessing when you close the door it starts sending power to the fuel pump again. Everything else works. Power windows, door locks, mirrors, ect. The local vw shop in town said it might be a bad door switch or the CCM. But the lights come on when you open the door and go off when you shut it. Fuel pump primes when you open the door.
I noticed that my sunroof creaks slightly when going over rough pavement when closed. I can duplicate the noise by pushing up on the closed sunroof with my fist. It's not loud at all but with the radio off and at lower speeds I can hear it.
View 9 RepliesWhen I close the passenger door with the window down the glass of the window makes a noise like it is hitting metal. The noise is the loudest when the window is all the way down and becomes less loud gradually the further the window is up when the door is closed. It does not make the noise at all when the window is all the way up.
Found a few websites that illustrates how to remove the door panel but that seems to give you access to the window motor not the window itself.