Golf V R32 :: Shifter To Reverse By Pulling The Stick Back?
Mar 1, 2012
Quick question, on the R32 manual shifter, is there a way to get the shifter to reverse by pulling the stick back instead of pushing forward for an up shift?
I have an E46 M3 w/ SMG which shifts this way and I am strongly considering an R32. It would be nice to reverse the shift pattern to stick w/ what I am used to.
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My reverse lights and back up alarm will not engage unless i hold up on the shifter while in reverse the only thing i found was a adjuster for the indicator....
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with the gearbox stick shifter and housing for it. This has a remote gear selector as the truck was a C.O.E. so gearbox was behind the cab. I have seen these gearboxes with a stick shift coming straight out of the top of the box, which is what I need but my gearbox case is different although the 6 bolt fixing for the gear selector looks the same. What I need is someone to crawl under their truck and get the 10 digit model number off the truck gearbox which has a stick shift so I can cross reference the part numbers to see if the stick shift will fit my box.
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Installed some shifter cable bushings. But now reverse is harder to get to. Instead of just pushing it down and left for reverse.. Now I have to tilt the shift know slightly towards 4th gear then push down and go left and the gate seems so much smaller now. Overall it doesn't feel that much better than stock. what could i have done wrong?
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My 14 year old Jetta, 119,000 mile will manually o into reverse ,but will not allow me to reverse the car? Could this be a clutch problem, or transmission. Is it worth repairing it, or purchasing, leasing car? Car also had new engine 3 years ago.
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I have a 2010 RX and I've recently noticed every time I shift from Drive to Reverse and vice versa there's a squeaking noise coming from the shift stick. What this could be and if there's an easy solution?
I'm not due for service or an oil change for another 5,000 miles so I'm hoping it's not something I need to address immediately. Do you think it would be safe to wait until then?
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I just got my new 2011 Prius a week ago and still getting used to it. Yesterday I was pulling out of a parking spot in Reverse when the ICE came on and I felt a slight jolt in the transmission when it happened. Is this normal or should I get it checked out?
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I recently changed the bushings and installed SS kit. I don't know if this was the case before, but now while in any gear, i can still move it approx half inch to the right and half inch to the left.
I checked everything and all screws are tight. Could it be that the shifter cables need adjustment?
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Well just as stated above...basically when I put my brakes on, my shifter will refuse to go from Park to Reverse. I have to open the little "Shift lock" cap and manually press that button to be able to go to reverse...or sometimes back from D to P. It just started doing this a week ago.
2006 Sonata
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata, 2.4, 4-cyl automatic. While pulling into a parking space, the driver in the vehicle next to me threw her door open. I braked quickly (but did not slam on the brakes) to avoid hitting the door then continued into the space after she closed her door. I then tried to put my car in reverse to re-position it in the parking slot. The shifter on the console would not go into REVERSE and obviously not into PARK since PARK on the shifter is above REVERSE. The shifter will go into both DRIVE and NEUTRAL. I now have a car that will go only forward. Also, I cannot remove the key from the ignition switch since the shifter will not go into PARK. I've not had a problem like this with this or any car before.
I also noticed that my ABS/ESC has been coming on more frequently and staying on and I attributed that to a bad sensor since my brakes are in good shape and I have not had to rely on the ABS system. I don't believe that the ABS/ESC warning light and the shifter problem are connected but I'm not totally sure. Why my shifter won't go into REVERSE or PARK????
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I have a 99 Buick LeSabre and it died while I was pulling into a parking lot. It wouldn't start back up. I tried listening for the fuel pump and nothing. It's not priming or making any noise. Once I got it home I replaced the fuel pump relay. Still nothing so then I changed the fuel pump. Still nothing. I'm stumped. I'm going to check all the wires tonight to make sure I got them on right. Is there any other relay or fuse on these cars that I can check?
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I just recently put in an APR chip on my o4 gli from one of their dealers, a day or two later I noticed when I try to accelerate fast my check engine light comes on and the car starts pulling back. That was almost a week ago, today I went back to the same place to get a short shifter, I told them the problem while I was there and they said it was my coil packages. I replaced all 4 and im still having the same problem...
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Here is what I have:
2009 Santa Fe 3.3L AWD
70k KMs / 43k Miles
Temp has been very cold, -20C / -4 F
Car starts up without any problems. Try to put car in Reverse and the shifter is very hard to move, if it moves at all. When I am able to get it into Reverse, I then try to put it in Drive and it does not "engage" the "D" and the car behaves like its in Neutral. Moving the shifter back to Park, Neutral, Drive is very difficult and sometimes it will not go into Park. The dash lights do not illuminate the selected P, R, N, D.
However, once the car is warmed up (no longer on C on the temperature gauge) I can with a little effort move the shifter freely (but more effort than it should take) and the car behaves normally. Gear shifts are smooth and in general it is operating normally.
The dash lights do illuminate the selected P, R, N, D. I've checked the Trans fluid level and it appears to be normal and was planning to change it this w-e but I'm no longer sure it will work. Even if it has never been changed.
Also note that I have recently changed a wheel/hub bearing due to a noise that sounds a lot like loud tires on a highway. The bearing change did not eliminate the noise and I assumed that I've changed the wrong one. The noise does not appear to be coming from the Trans, but I cant be 100% sure. The noise is speed related and occurs only after about 20KM/h 16MPH. Unsure if they are related..
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I drove our 95 3.0l aero to work today, I was going to a job 45 miles away. It sounded like it was revving awfully high for 65-70mph, but the gear selecter said od, so I figured I was just crazy. Got to the job and tried to back up and the shifter wouldn't go into reverse. Parked for the day after realizing the shifter would go N and down, but not into rev or park. Apparently it was revving high, as the gear indicator was now off and I was no doubt in drive, driving to work. I got it home, then had to drop my daughter at work, by staying in OD.
Then on the way home the van just DIES while going 35+- mph. Won't restart, smelled gas after many many attempts to start. Towed home. NO spark. I have 12+ volts at+coil. I tried my ignition module and a new one, neither sparked at the coil wire. I bought a new coil, then checked resistance at + &-, and - and coil output post. Basically same resistance new & old coil. Did my hall effects or cam, or crank sensor just go out or? Why both problems same day? I thought if it was the coil or ignition module, maybe it got too warm on drive revving high. Does a 95 3.0 coil get triggered by the distrib haal effects or does the crank sensor do it?
I can easily see one of those being bad as they are original, with 334,000+ miles. All the tune up, coil, wires, plugs, ign module, cap, rotor, were replaced 55,000 miles ago. ALSO does this distrib have a TFI module on it? My book says to pull the distrib and remove it, like my 5.0l Mustang, but I don't see one, I think thats the ignition module on the pass. inner fender. I'd like to see if I can get 400,000 miles out of it.
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I have a 09' 4cyl automatic engine with 54k.
About 30min ago when when I parked the shifter would not move past neutral into reverse and go into park. I can go from D into neutral or the next slot over for manual shifting. Naturally this causes a problem as you can't take the key out of the ignition if its not in park.
I took a screw driver and popped open the cap for the shift release button and used that to move it into park. Turned car off, back on, etc etc seemed fine. So when I tried moving it into reverse and it wouldn't budge. It instead would make a electronic click or snap coming form the steering column but more back toward the engine. Like more into the dash area but back in it. It would make this noise every time I attempted to move it but it wasn't a continuous sound. Just once with each jerk to the side to move it out of park.
So the car works fine except for this. I used it with the screw driver/shift release to unlock it and it drives fine. Goes into reverse and back in park but if I move it into neutral or drive it will not go back into reverse or park.
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My 1996 Buick Park Avenue had problems finding reverse. You would have to move the shifter in and out of reverse and get it in just the right spot to go into reverse. once it is going in reverse you can hear a slight ticking sound like the park gear isn't totally disengaged. now it is nearly impossible to find reverse and when you put it in neutral its like it is in park.
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1985 ranger 2.3L TK5 tranny. Shifter was really loose and the tranny finally got stuck in reverse. I have opened up the bottom cover, but am not sure where to move the shift forks to get it back to neutral. I bought a new shifter, but I need to get the tranny back to neutral before I can install it.
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My daughters 2010 Sonata has a occasional problem that is very disturbing. When she is slowly pulling into a a parking spot or into her garage, the car will make a lurch forward. Just a quick acceleration and then back to normal. So far she hasn't damaged anything but its just a matter of time. She has taken it to a neighborhood independent garage.
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My cousin has a 2007 Ford Taurus with the pushrod 3.0L. It has the console shifter and it is hard to move the shift lever into Park from Reverse. The shifer moves out of park and to every other gear with normal effort. The gear indicator correctly displays the shifter position. It drives/shifts perfectly fine. The only problem is that it is hard to move the shifter from Reverse into Park. It feels like there is a rubbery, or somewhat mushy threshold/resistance that needs to be overcome with a moderate amount of effort to get the shifter into park. Once the shifter is in Park it feels normal meaning you don't have to hold or force the shifter to stay in park.
It is frustrating because it seems most other people have a problem with the shfiter being hard to move from Park to Reverse or Neutral, but she is having the opposite issue. Will it hurt the car to keep shoving the shifter into park when necessary without getting it fixed?
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My windshield wipers stick to the windshield. It's like turning them on full speed when dry. They drag like hell even in Monsoon like conditions...
What gives? Faulty wipers? Bad arm position?
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Recently i noticed that my gear stick is very loose. I have read that this is a problem with the linkage bushes. I have found that the bushes are in the engine bay (3 i think) but i was wondering if there are more bushes under the gear stick that i need to change. Looking for a complete kit for all the parts needed ? Do i have to change something else ?
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