Golf V R32 :: Rough Idle After Engine Rebuild
Apr 21, 2016
Just yesterday cranked my car for the first time after complete engine rebuild!! Before starting I cranked it couple of time with the spark plugs out and fuel injection still on. This was to get the oil/fuel pressure up.
After that torqued everything in place and it jumped to life instantly. The car runs really smoothly. No clicks or ticks and all the timing chain noise in gone for good. I warmed the engine with 1500-2000rpm and checked for leaks.
Only minor one was in the oil filter housing, couple of drops came between the cooler and the housing. (this was oil)
Fans, thermostat and basically the whole cooling system worked good. Lifted the reservoir up to get the air out, worked just good.
Mate was inside the car to look the revs and checking the stats in VAG-COM.
But... It was really hard to keep the revs between 1500-2000rpm and with a slight touch of the gas pedal it you could adjust it but it wanted to go over the needed all the time. When you lift the pedal just a little the rpm sank pretty fast.
When you take the foot of the pedal completely the idle RPM drops to 600-640 according to VAG-COM
What could cause this?
-vacuum issue?
-does not having brakes installed affect this?
All is torqued by the Bentley manual. I still have the steering rack and the brakes uninstalled (calipers off)
Videos from the startup:
Without plugs: [URL] .....
With plugs: [URL] ....
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All seems to be going well, drove the car for first 200 meters yesterday! Replacing the faulty parts is always easiest, just need to know if there are any shortcuts for fixing this. What's the engine oil temperature sensor? The one bolted in oil pan?
The intake air temperature is showing -40 degrees celsius.
MAF is plugged correctly.
VAG-COM gives me these following codes:
3 Faults Found:
000406 - Engine Oil Temp. Sensor (G8)
P0196 - 004 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
000275 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42)
P0113 - 002 - Signal too High - Intermittent
000258 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 002 - Signal too Low
Readiness: 0000 0000
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It levels off and idles fine after about 10-15 seconds but sometimes it idles so rough I think it's going to stall.
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I have a 2004 gls 1.8t Jetta. It has a straight piped turbo back exhaust, and a stage 2 tune. I recently had a problem with my car starting to rough idle when the engine gets to proper temp. The car starts to idle roughly, and when driving the car will bog down, if I keep my foot on the gas, the car acts like it is coasting and the rpms fall, but at some point the car will shoot off like i floored it. At lower rpms in the 1st and second gear, the car will randomly and periodically start bucking, with the same symptoms. I already replaced my coil packs and spark plugs with a kit off ecs, and when i went to change the spark plugs i had oil on the spark plugs and oil leaking from a bad valve cover gasket, so that was replaced as well. I replaced the fuel filter already.
The MAF sensor was just cleaned and didn't look too dirty. When I unplug the MAF it still idles rough. The fuel pump relay can be heard working properly when the door opens. Another problem that sometimes occurs on cold start is if I don't wait long enough for the pump to activate or sometime right after it starts, the car will start partly then stall out. When driving and the car is bucking the exhaust gives rich fuel smell. Also when 2 stepping in the car (which I don't do very often), the CEL starts to blink and the car misfires and drives rough. I figure since I don't have many parts on it yet I probably shouldn't do it anyway so I don't blow up the engine.
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The check engine light came on in my 2000 Jetta and the engine power suddenly decreased noticeably. Got worse quickly and was idling rough, like it was about to stall out (but didn't). Took it to dealership, they said spark plugs were the problem and replaced. All seemed normal driving home, but after 10 minutes, same problem: check engine flashing, weak engine (trouble on hills), and a rough idle.
Two questions: what could it be?
and is it safe to drive back to dealership (~10 miles) or might that cause further damage?
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This morning when I started my car the RPMs were all over the place. The engine would rev to just below 2k and then drop, as it it were gonna die and right before it did, it would rev back up. Then, when I tried to move it, it would not accelerate and would hardly move and while coasting it dies if the clutch is depressed. The car does not die when idling (albeit a very rough idle) but it does when it is moving.
It flashed a check engine for a few seconds at one point but went away and has not come back on. I am running APR Stg 1 and a Carbonio intake. I switched from 93 octane mode to stock and nothing changed.
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I have a 2013 Golf TDI with 2070 miles on it. For around 2-3 weeks, I've noticed that it intermittently will idle rough, shakes, etc, as if it is about to stall out, but stays running and drives normal. I figured it was a typical Diesel thing and wasn't too worried about it. However, today, this happened, and I got an engine light. Yikes! I made an appointment for it but need to wait till after the 4th for it to be looked at. What's up here? Is it a regen cycle? Timing issues? Am I doomed with my Golf TDI?
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I just had a former Ford tech rebuild my motorcraft 2150 2v on my '77 F250. I took it home, put it back on the truck and it ran kind of rough. I then went ahead and screwed both idle mix screws in untill seated, then back out two turns. The truck ran great, turned off truck then when it the house for dinner. Half an hour later I come back out...truck will not start, just sits and cranks. Finally got it started and it ran good, but crapped out after it warmed up. I have made sure there were no vac leaks when truck was running the first time. Did I adjust the mixture right?
The truck is a '77 F250 400/C6
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I am getting ready to put new axle shaft u-joints in my 2008 F350 (they are shot, they actually rattle on my rough roads). While I am at it I figure I will grease the front wheel brg cartridge, replace the needle brg that is inside the cartridge. I am also afraid I will the axle shaft vacuum seal. I don't want to go to ford an get raped, diesel O-rings doesn't have parts for the newer pickups and I don't want to get junk from the parts houses. Where I can get these parts for a reasonable price? What the best brands are? Are they the same parts as the earlier super duties? I know the lock out is different.
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Once in a while, I notice that my TDI has a rough idle. It feels more like a shake in the seat than rough idle. But I don't know how else to describe it. This usually happens at warm up- after driving about 5-10 minutes.
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I've been having this problem lately, when its a hot day the car revs up passing the 1000rpm's or when I am in traffic for a long period of time it does the same and its stays there for a while ( like 5 mins) then returns back to normal. Heres a video so you can see of what I am talking about... [URL] .....
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Symptoms:
- rough start-up, car shuts down
- backfire when releasing after WOT
- OBD-II codes (see below)
Okay so these issues started to appear only 1 day after I got tuned...
Problem History:
Day 1:
- car started mildly rough
- I got an EPC light on my dash 2 minutes after moving and for 2 seconds the car sounded like an STI (the sound you hear with a misfire)
- I turned it off and on, EPC gone car started up normally
- took it straight to dealer, they checked coils and plugs and said that it's a tune issue.
- went to take it back from the dealer and that was the first time the car shutdown immediately after start-up. it started at second attempt with a quite long ignition sound and the STI-like sound briefly once again.
Day 2:
- I went to my friend and we pulled the codes from OBD-II and only got the P0420 00 [175] - Efficiency Below Threshold code only (as the dealer probably erased any other code related to my EPC light)
- we deleted the code and drove around
- every time we turn the car off and on. The car starts up mildly rough and the code comes back up
Every 2 days or so:
- the car would require 2 attempts to start but no EPC light coming up.
Day 4:
- I had a night of possibly 6 WOTs to test the cars performance, and it was performing great. didn't feel any loss in power or anything. (was friendly racing my friends modded 135i with very impressive outcomes)
- car backfires after i release the gas pedal at WOT (not with every WOT but 2 out of 6 runs it backfired)
- After the last WOT i got the EPC light. turned the car off and let her relax for 5 minutes.
- car took 2 attempts to startup. with severe roughness and shakes (as if the car is cammed V8 engine) for 5 seconds and then back to normal.
Now since the EPC light came back on i wanted to check if there is another code from the OBD-II. I was hoping that the issue will only be the P0420 00 [175] - Efficiency Below Threshold code but my fears were true and i got another very annoying code
This is last nights code pull
2 Faults Found:
14914 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 00 [096] - Control Range Not Reached
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
[Code] .....
Day 7:
- The car had the sever start-up roughness again
As I'm trying to find a solution for my problem here are the steps i took/will take:
- took it to the dealer for nothing.
- ordered an O2 sensor extender for the P0420 00 [175] - Efficiency Below Threshold code and i hope it's somewhat related to the start-up issue. it will arrive today or tomorrow.
- once the extender is here, I'll take it to an exhaust shop to install the extender and check for any DP/Exhaust leaks
- I will take it to a mechanic to check any leaks in all intake/air connectors and piping, any leaks in DV (I have forge recirculating DV), Boost pressure sensors (the piggy back was connected to them and one might be loose when we removed it), spark plugs and coils.
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So last night my battery died, and nobody around me had jumper cables.....so I was forced to bump start the car
It worked, but now the idle is really rough. At a stop in neutral the revs stay between 800-1800 sometimes. When I'm up shifting, every time I left off the clutch the revs jump about 200 rpm and now I have a CEL.
What could have happened?
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My R is acting up a bit today. I went to start it this morning and the battery was dead. I'm not sure if I left the stereo on (it doesn't turn off when the key is removed and door opened. I have to disconnect the faceplate every time.) or what but it had just enough juice to unlock the doors and light up the some light LEDs. After I got home from work I went to jump it and it wouldn't even unlock. I had to use the key to manually unlock the door.
I was able to jump it just fine and took it for a drive. It idled high sometimes and would drop down to roughly 400-600 RPM. Driving the car, it was clearly lacking power and not running properly and the traction control light came on. I parked it in the driveway and took a video of the idle, shut the car off and started it up again. This time, the idle seems normal but it doesn't feel as responsive or powerful as it was before today. The traction control light is still on as well. If I rev the engine up, it'll drop down to around 1,100-1,200 rpm, sit for a few seconds then finally drop to 800.
I just got it about three weeks ago and haven't done anything to the car. Hopefully this is something minor because I don't really feel like dropping a ton more money on a car I just bought.
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So today I went for a drive in my mkvi gti with apr stage 1 and an intake and the car was idling rough and then as i pressed the clutch to take it out of gear and brake the car would rev up to about 3k and drop ant go up and down a couple times until it returned to normal idle and still it would idle rough and this happens every time i press the clutch to take the car out of gear. also on a cold start it would jump up to like 3k and then slowly drop down.
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So this morning when I went to start my car for work, it wouldn't idle and was misfiring badly, also has a very loud noise coming from the valve cover. The car has under 40k miles on it and is CPO, so it'll be towing it to the dealership today to get check out. The car ran fine on friday when i parked it.
Here is a vagcom scan I did this morning also.
Monday,25,August,2014,06:03:51:26742
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 12.12.2.0 (x64)
Data version: 20140212
VIN: WVWHD7AJ2BW201261 License Plate:
Chassis Type: AJ (7N0)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 25 2E 37 42 44 46 52 55 56 62 72 77
VIN: WVWHD7AJ2BW201261
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] .....
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My golf 2.0 vw isn't doing so good right now. It has 227000 miles on it. It has been driving great, and then last week it started to idle rough. It idles between 600-800 rpms. it fluctuates between 600-800 rpms. It had the check engine light on before this happened i was told by my brother that it was an 02 sensor. I had it checked for what is causing the engine light to come on today at o Rileys, and it came up with 11 codes. Some of the codes where 02 sensors, it was running to rich, needed a new computer, evaps system, fuel pump, fuses, coil pack, spark plugs, It shakes when you sit in it when it is idling like not a bad shake but a small one you cal feel, l'm including a video of it running.
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If my car's been sitting - say monday morning after sitting all weekend in the garage- it runs rough for a little while. Sometimes only for a few seconds, sometimes for a little while after the idle drops. The colder the car is, the longer and worse the condition. It feels like a cylinder isn't firing.
After a particularly cold and wet spell (I had the car outside) it ran so badly it threw a code for one of the cam position sensors and #4 misfire. I replaced both of the sensors. That worked a little.
Since I was due for 80k service and saw a misfire when damp, I replaced the ignition coils along with the spark plugs. That worked a little more. But, it still does it. What else could it be if not ignition? Sticky valve? something else?
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When I started the r the idle was bouncing between 500-900rpms, start driving as soon as I start to slow down the car would shut off and the battery light lights up. When it stopped shutting off on me when I slowed down/pushed in the clutch the esp light came on and wont go off ....
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I have passat V6 3.0 lt, coolant receiver got broken and engine overheated. After replacement of the receiver, engine was opened for inspection and head gasket were replaced also. Engine then rebuilt but was misfiring/engine rattling!
Took it to car dealer workshop for inspection, electrical system were reported fine but two pistons/champers at least in the engine not delivering required power!
The statement is not certain and only a full overhaul to the engine might sort it out.
- Note:
- engine head was faced/skimmed before reinstated!!
- A piston block were found loose- not sure how!
- engine milage over 280k km
Would it worth to replace the engine completely with used one or even R36 if fits?
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I did a head rebuild to my 01 jetta vr6 and replaced some valves after the timing chain broke. Once i put the head back on, i realized that the timing on the timing chain gear and the drive pulley was off like so:
How did that happen? Could the gear have slipped on the crankshaft wen the chain broke? Or the pulley slipped somehow? What am i missing?
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