Golf V R32 :: Removing Broken Rear Belly Pan Bolt?
Aug 25, 2013
just got back into a .:R 6/18/13 and took it to a nearby jiffy lube to get an oil change not 100% sure if they're responsible or not but i noticed the belly pan was hanging rather low and broke not too long after. ordered a replacement from ecs w/ the 3 M6x20 pan->subframe bolts since they were missing. got under the car today to replace/install new pan and noticed that 2 of the missing bolts were broken in the frame. tried searching but found nothing?
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My 18" Austin alloys come with black Volkswagen-branded bolts with 9-point "starburst" openings in the center. They look pretty common based on photos I'm seeing on the Web.
Thing is, I don't see anything in the tool kit that looks to match up with these bolts should I, or a mechanic or roadside service, need to remove a wheel(s).
I have the standard tool kit and it has all the tools shown in the manual EXCEPT the "Adapter for anti-theft wheel bolt (if equipped)." Should I have one, or am I missing something else obvious here?
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The other day when i wanted to start the car, I found out my battery was death so i decided to ask my buddy to push me and crank it on gear. Car shakes as normal and engine started, but then i heard a weird noise like if something was rubbing. I turned it off and popped the hood. I found my engine leaning forward and toward the passenger side.
So the next morning, I checked the bay again and i found out that it wasn't the motor mount. Motor mount is ok, but then i found a broken bolt that holds the bracket to the block; the one that goes right next to the water pump to be more specific. Also in the back of the block there is a bolt that hold bracket to the block again and the thread whole was enough weak to break when the other bolt failed. So I did some research and i found that there is a solution for the bolt in back of the block.
What I am concerned is for the on the goes right next to the water pump. It seems that it broke the whole thing including the part where the bolt threads go. I just had a shop install I.E connecting rods, new piston rings, and rebuilt the heads. They put a new timing belt kit and all its job required. I think they might have a bit of fault on this since it had to be removed when they did the timing belt kit. Anyways I don't want to think my block will be a junk now because engine is running like a champ, and that would be a bummer.
-Bolt that is broken in two pieces.-
-And where it is attached to the block-
-Part of the engine where this all goes.-
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Well, I'm not quite sure what happened, but while driving on the highway today my belly pan decided it was time to move on with life and detached 98% of itself from my car at 80. I pulled over and it was only hanging on by 1 screw so I had to rip it the rest of the way off since I didn't have any tools in the car.
with the way the OEM belly pan came off, the plastic was broken in several places (screws stayed with the car) and in other places the screws stripped out and were still attached to the pan itself. If I order a new belly pan from ECS and associated hardware, will a tech be able to install it if the holes are stripped/there is damage underneath the car?
I know a lot of people run without the belly pan, but I would prefer to have one installed, figure I can't be the first guy to replace a broken one, right?
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According to the repair manual, you need to replace item 3, a Torque to Yield bolt, when removing the caliper. What is the part VW part number?
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I got a piece of bolt stuck in the trans pan bolt hole, how to get that out if there!
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I was loosening the bolt that holds down the number one spark plug wire when it just spun off leaving less than half the bolt in the valve cover. I tried using the grabbit extractor but that did not work.
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The garage said that the "carrier bolt" is broken. What is this and is it a harbinger of more death to follow? This truck is rowdy and distrustful to drive to begin with.
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I'm trying to take out the rear center headrest and I can't for the life of me work out how. Holding the button on the leg collar down only lets me raise it by about half an inch.
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I need the part number for the lower shock bolt that holds the shock, swaybar link, and trailing arm together. It came loose and stripped the threads out of the trailing arm. I think if I can find a nut the right size I can tighten that against the outside of spindle for a temporary fix. I can't seem to find one, or a part number.
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Ok, here it goes. I was changing the timing belt on a 2005 PT Cruiser. Everything went good until I tried re-installing the harmonic balancer. No one in town carried the tool to reinstall the thing, so I ordered a tool from Amazon. I was installing the balancer, had a box end wrench just holding the bolt that screwed into the crankshaft and an adjustable wrench turning the bearing nut to push the pulley back on. I got the pulley down where the balancer and crankshaft started turning, so I held the box end wrench steady as I snugged the bearing to make sure it had bottomed out when the bolt broke down in the crankshaft.
Now, this bolt had threads at the top to turn the bearing, a shaft, and then about half inch but no more than 3/4 inch of thread at the bottom to thread into the crank and a long shoulder in between. The bolt broke at the bottom where the threaded part started. And, to make things worse, it turns out the bolt is made of pewter and is about 3-4 inches in the crank. I tried to feel for threads with the crank bolt itself, and t appears to be where the crank threads start. There appears to be abut 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch of space on the other end of the broken bolt. I have considered drilling the center out progressively bigger until I could get something in there to back the bolt out, and I am not sure I could get a bolt extractor down in the hole and then turn the thing to back it out.
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well Im working on mother in laws 2002 escape...replacing wheel bearing and ball joints...I went with replacing control arm with ball joint already pressed in , I did try to press out old ball joint first but it wasn't budging...so I went on to the control and the back bolt came out fine...except threads at top of bolt look worn bad...anyways moved on to front and it was tight and moving along good...sprayed down with pb blast moved it back in sprayed again and waited a bit....as I went to bring it back out it snapped....I got the broken bolt out...it broke right at where the threads start...anyways Im having problem with gettting the control arm out while the rest of that bolt is still in there.
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installed some st coils in my mk6 and I want to get the back a bit lower. I know Ican take the rear perch out but should I use that rubber insulator that came on the stock springs or just the the coil sit right against the top mounting point?
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I've had two control arm bolts broken in the last year (resulting in the arms being replaced) during my '3 year alignment' program.
The bolts have been broken and then I get a call and a bill for the new control arm and labor.
Is it that common to break the control arm bolts when aligning the wheels? I do live in Michigan where salt is used on the roads.
There are some other things that seem have not inspired my trust (billing mistakes and not torquing the rear wheel after replacing the arm and letting me drive home) ...But, I want to be fair and if this/these are regular occurrences I'll go back and work with the shop.
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I was in the process of changing out rotor and pads and my caliper bracket bolts while loosening them. The weird part is the bolt was turning in the process. The passenger side was easy as pie. The drivers side has me stuck. I have tried to drill out the broken bolt but noting is working. I don't know where to go from here. I have already purchased a new caliper and the bracket that goes with it. I just need to get this old one off so I can move on.
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Doing some charity work on a '04 5.4. Noticed top right idler pulley was sitting on a 45* angle, figured it was shot and decided to replace it. The bolt broke. Borrowed an Easy Out. Short version, I have a very messed up bolt hole. Tried drilling and tapping but couldn't get it to bite and was scared to go bigger. I don't know if the threaded part pulley actually mounts can be replaced and if so how to go about it. Not sure how much deeper I can drill if it can't be replaced? At a standstill.
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I have just installed the V2's on my R - amazing! however the rears are a bit soft for my taste. I am wondering can the damping be adjusted without removing the rear shocks? Can I access the damping adjusted from the trunk?
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How to remove the rear tail lights on a Jetta city. The ones on the trunk lid.
I have switched out all the bulbs for led and can't find how to get to the reverse lights bang head.
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How do I remove the Radio if the Tabs are Broken? I put the Keys and 2 out of 4 don't Catch... Don't even know if the 2 actually Catch either... How would i Remove the Radio?
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I have a 2004 Nissan xtrail. It got stolen and the pricks put a bolt in the oil filler hole and broke the camshaft. Have taken the rocker cover off and all the valves go up and down and look fine when turned over do you think I could just replace the camshaft?
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I have a 1999 ford f150 4.6 engine and it has an exhaust leak but wondering what is the procedure to remove a broken bolt and the rest of the bolts on the manifold
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