Golf V R32 :: Rear Hatch Lock Not Responding To Fob Button
Aug 26, 2010
Rear hatch lock not responding to fob button, nor in-door switch.
If there is a fuse, I don't see it on the fuse map. Does stick open imprecisely when using the emblem, but little tricky. Where/which fuse?
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I try to lock the treg with the button on drivers door handle and nothing happens. All other door buttons work fine. Am I in for a new door handle or just another software quirk?
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For 6 months of ownership, the rear hatch apparently has never been locked. I can lock all other 4 doors, expect the latch apparently won't lock by itself. and I can't physically lock it with the key as it looks like the lock is seized. What are my options? Do I have to get a used rear hatch or is there someway of locking it from the inside?
Looking at some videos online, it looks to be that the actuator motor in the trunk could be the possible culprit?
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About a year ago I put in a new lock motor and it worked fine for a while but has stopped working. Is it the lock motor or something else? It unlocks but won't lock. There is not latch indicator on the upper hatch so it stayed unlocked without me knowing it.
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I just had my treg serviced. One of the tsb's performed was the remote antenna fix. Range is much improved but one problem; the center button on the key remote which used to open the rear hatch doesn't work anymore. Now when pressed, the lights flash and the hatch does not open. I checked the comfort settings and they are still set at unlock doors and hatch.
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Does the rear hatch come from the factory with a different key than the ignition? My key will not open the rear hatch lock, it doesn't even go in the whole way.
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I suspect that the 2006 Yaris rear hatch cylinder would work on my 2004 echo, so I got it from a u-pull. However it seems to be a bit gummed up with something, and I want to take it apart (far enough to rekey, basically).
I've got the spring clip off the back, and took out the back plate with the coil spring. I've cleaned up the metal cylinder and removed the spring at the back, but I don't know how to take the whole thing apart to clean the insides.
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I've noticed that when I lock the truck, the rear hatch stays locked most of the time. I have to manually lock it with the key if I want my truck to be secure. When it does work, it doesn't sound weak. When it doesn't, it's silent. Where should I start looking?
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So yesterday I tried to tackle this project. I soaked the latched in penetrating oil got it all loosened up were I could actually lock it with the key. So tried it with the key fob and no lock or unlock. So I pulled the actuator out and did the "tin foil" trick. Still wouldn't work. Didn't push the lock far enough to Lock the glass. However, it did move the latch. So I went down and purchased a NEW one from auto parts store stuck it in and whip-bang-boom it don't work either. As it don't push the lock far enough to lock the glass.
Vehicle 2000 X 4x4 w/ v10 Yes lock moves freely with little effort
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I have myself a hatch stuck shut on my wagon. Wont open with the button and the key doesn't turn. The key fob was actually broken when I bought the car leading me to believe it happened while he tried to unlock the stuck hatch.
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Does button on the drivers door open your hatch. Mine does not. Just wondering if this was normal.
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It's not the lock, it's the linkage. The actuator has been replaced and still can't lock/unlock it. Using the key is really tough to turn, but it will with enough force applied. Last summer I sprayed it with lube and it worked for a while, now we're back to square one. It's really clean, just acts like something is bent/worn.
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I have had that car, the best one I have ever owned, since shortly after Nine-One-One, a date some of you may remember.
I never open any door but the driver's door with the key. Several months ago, for some reason it occurred to me to try and see if they worked.
Nope, both the rear hatch and passenger's door lock would not open with the key. I assumed that the mechanism corroded up over lack of use over the years.
I thought, Well, crud. But, since I haven't used those door locks in over 12 years, I can probably get by.
I thought I had lost the spare car key when I was in Texas in December. To my surprise, I saw it on the key rack in the kitchen here in rural Mexico. I took it out to the car to check it out, and it opens all the doors.
I compared the keys, and one of the 'vanes' on the key I use all the time is a very tiny bit smaller than on the spare key. My guess is either that key never opened those two doors and I never noticed it. Or, it has worn over 12 years.
So, I guess when I get back to the States, I will have a copy made of the spare key. I am also going to post this on Sienna Chat for obvious reasons.
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Since I bought the Ex last December the rear lock worked sometimes. The key cylinder wouldn't turn, but the actuator would work from time to time.
So since it is hunting season and I want to lock up the Ex when I am in the field I dug into it tonight.
I want to know how do I remove the actuator from the handle/lock mechanism. It looks like it just snaps on. I pulled the actuator back a touch and the arm feel off that drives the lock mechanism.
So after pulling the handle and trim piece, removing the lock cylinder and hosing it in PB blaster and brake kleen and more PB blaster I now have a lock cylinder that turns freely.
After turning my attention the lock mechanism and flooding it with PB blaster, I now can lock the Ex. That mechanism is not a smooth item! So do I need to remove the complete lock mechanism assembly to remove the actuator? Can I buy an actuator with a metal arm?
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I've been having an issue with my hatch not opening the first several times I press the unlock button on the remote. For reference it's the car door unlock button I'm pressing, not the hatch one as that one has never done anything when I've pressed it.
I thought it was due to the faulty rear view camera I had installed (the emblem pops out) but I just got a new one installed 2 days ago and it's doing the same thing. It's gotten so bad I've had to go open the drivers door and press unlock from inside there to get it open.
I'm wondering if there is a problem with the latch getting stuck or something. I've never had it not close all the way or anything like that which I hear is more common than the issue I'm having. I will take a pic of the pin in the trunk that I'm talking about.
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Having a little issue w/ the wife's hatch lock mechanism as seen in the video below. The black lock arm isn't the culprit as in some other videos I've seen.
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Yesterday I unlocked my car, drove to work and when I got out, the locking button flashes red on my FOB but it wont lock the doors. The unlock, hatch open and panic all work.
I tried to use my spare fobs, and same deal, all but the unlock works. The power locks work if i press the button inside the car. if i lock the car door manually using the key, it will work, but the dome lights when set to open door lit will not turn off when i lock it.
This is really weird, how I can fix/reset this so I can have the locking function back? Should I disconnect the battery and discharge the system?
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Today was a very warm day... I pressed on the air conditioner button.. On the screen it looks like everything is ok.. But actually nothing happens.. The air conditioner is not turning on at all.. What can i do?
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The rear driver side door on my Passat doesn't work right, it doesn't lock or unlock from the button on the front two doors....and the window only rolls down when that door is open and the car is running, how to fix?
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How the rear hatch opens up fully with a click on the remote, but closing it is another matter. Manual says to grab the handle inside and swing down but I can't seem to close it without having to push down on the outer hatch. Is there a trick ???
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I've 2014 Santa Fe Sport 2.4 AWD. From past few days my Front Passenger Door Lock/Unlock is not responding when i try to open via remote lock/Unlock buttons. All other door locks are working fine. I googled and found some issues with door actuators.
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