Golf V R32 :: Rattle From The Tranny At Idle In Park
Sep 1, 2007
I have this rattle from the tranny at idle in park. If I blip the throttle it goes away. I'm guessing a heat shield vibrating or something....I seem to recall my Corrado having a similar sound at idle.
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I have had a FX400 installed for about 4 months with a solid flyweel(stock weight). Question is at idle the clutch will rattle? When the Clutch pedal is pushed in the noise is gone. When you engage 1st and accelerate through 1st and 2nd it will rattle till you get into higher RPM's. In higher gears the noise is not present or at least unable to be heard. Is this normal operation for an aftermarket clutch and flywheel? This is not the normal chatter while slipping the clutch slightly to get the car moving Which is only present if you accidentally slip too much. Otherwise there is no chatter under normal driving.
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So when the car is idle i hear a weird rattle noise but when i push the clutch in the noise goes away.
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MK6 gti/golf ... I recently found a new *metal* type rattle coming from my rear seat on the passenger side no one seemed to have the fix for it online, so i decided to hunt for the rattle. found it and the fix is very easy. There are 3 possible repairs:
Repair 1 steps:
1) release the rear seat clips, 2 slide in clips in the front, just pull up, and then the 2 rear hooks by pushing the seat back and up motion to unhook.
2) fold the carpet over on the passenger side and you will find the fuel tank access lid
3) pull the grommet with the wires going through it out, i also wrapped the module sitting in the pocket of the lid with cloth tape/ felt tape
4) pull up on the plastic lid. (you might break a tap or two of the lid you can easily secure the lid down with sound deadening or dum dum)
5) first thing you see is a black and blue fuel line ( mine were touching each other making a rattle noise) and if u were to shake the lines they would rattle farther in against the body
6) take piece of rubber hose (i used a type of fuel line i had at work) cut one side of the rubber hose so u can fit it over the line.
7) slide the rubber piece over both lines and push it in as far as you need, untill the line does not hit the body or make a rattle type noise.
8) place one more piece where the two lines touch
9) re assemble the rear seats (seal the lid if you broke any clips. to prevent air noise)
Repair 2:
1) lift car up and locate the top camber bolt on the passenger side. there should be a white plastic evap line. i found mine touching and rattling.
2) cut a piece of rubber hose and slice one side so you can slip it over the line
Repair 3:
1) remove the 10 mm plastic nuts on the plastic cover on the passenger side to reveal the fuel lines and evap lines.
2) found my lines touching
3) place rubbing tubing on all three of the lines
4) re assemble plastic cover and road test car.
You can always add more rubber pieces if needed.
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I have less than 7k miles on my new Silverado W/T. I haven't hauled anything heavy in it since I bought it, and have been using it just back and forth to work. Pretty light duty. I was parked the other night in a parking lot idling and listening to the radio when I noticed the transmission temp jumped up to 189 degrees! I also noticed the water gauge was a bit past it's mid-range temp. I immediately cranked up the heater core to try to cool things down and it worked for the main radiator water temp..but the tranny sender quickly went to 200 degrees so I shut the whole mess down.
Just before I did that, the transmission idiot light popped on. I left it there for several hours in 20 degree weather and came back to start the truck and head home..the tranny on start-up was still @ 70 degrees. I got up on the hiway and things came down to about 100 degrees at a legal speed on the hiway. Engine water temp was normal too. Drove for about 45 minutes that way. I tried sitting in my driveway a day or so later in park, and the tranny temp went from 120 degrees to 145 degrees in 35 degree weather fairly quickly.
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I have a 2002 Camry with (440K Kms) and automatic transmission. I am the second owner and had this car since 130K Kms so I have been driving it for a while. The car was in great condition but recently, the transmission started to give some trouble where it's gear changes were not smooth. Also, when I would come to a complete stop, trany would go into neutral even though I have not touched the gear shifter and it is still in drive.
I had my mechanic drain and fill transmission fluid since it was a bit dirty. A few days later, the car would park with gear box in "P" but no matter which gear I would put the gear shifter into, it would remain in neutral and won't pick up into any gear at all. So, I parked the car on the driveway. Couple of days later I wanted to try to see what the issue was and now, no matter what gear I put the gear shifter into, it stays into park.
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Took vehicle in for two things last week and they said both were normal for the vehicle.
1. Sunroof rattles. I can physically push up on the sunroof and feel a little play in it. It doesn't leak or anything, but does rattle on certain roads. Dealer say it's tightened to standards and within normal expected specs for the age of the vehicle (2007), but after feeling the sunroof in my other car that has no play in it whatsoever, I'm a little skeptical.
2. Under certain conditions, the tranny seems to slip/pause and then grab a gear. It happens on off-ramps usually. I let off the gas to slow down and the give it gas to carry me through the off-ramp. It feels like a clunk or the tranny slipping trying to find a gear and then it finds one and noticably clunks in. Dealer hooked up a computer to it and it says it's operating noramlly and the clunk is just a product of the way I drive and the electronic shifting computer. I've had my drive shaft replaced thinking this was the problem, but it's still there.
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I've got a 2001 E350 van with the 5.4 triton and 4R100 transmission in it. Has about 130,000 miles on it. I was doing some work under it a couple of days ago and noticed a rattling noise coming from the front of the bell housing. I can't hear it sitting in the vehicle or standing next to it but it's pretty scary sounding with my face under the inspection cover.
Shifting is smooth no noticeable problems there. Tranny fluid looks good, not burnt. After further investigation the noise is only present in park or neutral. In drive it goes away. In park it takes a few minutes of warm up for it to begin starting as a light tap tap, eventually working its way up to a clatter once warm. I know the 99 4r100 had some TC issues that sounded like this. It sounds like it's in front of the TC so I'm thinking the flex plate maybe?
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2002 Camry, Automatic Transmission
Have an occasional problem. When shifting from park to drive/reverse, I occasionally get a loud, brief (1 -2 seconds) rattling noise from the engine compartment. It's my daughter's car so not sure yet if this is a cold start only issue or if present after car has been driven, then stopped and re-started. The problem does only occur occasionally. Where to start troubleshooting? I've looked for loose external pasts with nothing found.
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(2008 RX350)... Recently I've noticed that when I'm in park, or driving slowly next to other cars, I can hear an intermittent rattle/chatter, sort of sounds like leaves or crinkling plastic. Also sort of sounds like clutch chatter. The noise is coming from an area near the front-passenger wheel well, sort of near the alternator.
Here's a sound-click of the noise: (ignore the first 3 seconds) [URL] .....
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Im having an issue with my 2000 f250 7.3 diesel. 4x4. The od light is flashing and the tranny is kind of jerky when it shifts. Also my truck won't go into 4 low. (I have shift on the fly) and every time I put it in park my truck revs up to 2000 rpm for a few seconds. I do have a ts 6 pos. Chip with can tunes on it. And I have already replaced the IPR. It does it even in stock setting.
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have an '11 jetta 2.5. by the way, love it. made the mistake of letting my noob buddy take it for a drive. he hit reverse while still coasting forward. now i get a noticeable "clunk" when i let off the clutch. mostly happens shifting into higher gears or at lower rpm shifts(2000-2500). almost sounds like theres "slack" (if you will) in the gearbox.
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What "normal" rpm should be for V8 idling? In my Phaeton I have 620-650rpm in Park position and when I press brake pedal and shift to Drive (or stop at the traffic light) rpm's goes down to ~520rpm. Moreover it goes down to ~500rpm when I turn on defrost of rear glass.
500-550rpm make an annoying vibrations of my car. I've observed it from 2 months. Could winter make this "phenomena" or it may be linked with replacement of generator on November? What is the normal rpm "level" at idle for Phaeton V8?
My mechanic told me there is no possibility to raise up rpm at idle in Phaeton. I asked him to do 750/650rpm (park/drive) but he says it is no possible. Rpm are regulated and controlled by ECU and no possibility to tune it. Is he right?
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I have an 02 Jetta the the left CV Axle came loose from the tranny/axle flange. I checked the Bentley and it shows that a bolt holds the flange on, I guess a spline. My question when taking one off, is there anything inside that will drop/pop off when I pull it? The reason I need to take it off is that some of the bolts actually broke off, while others screwed their way out. Not sure why they came out or what made the others break but they did. It would be so much easier to get the broken bolts out with the flange out.
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This weekend I replaced the transmission in my 2000 12v vr6 5 speed golf. Got In drive around block going through each gear all seemed fine. Then I tried reverse and couldnt find it. Seem like it reverse was more like 5th cause car would try and move forward. I have the new style shifter and the bearing is quite a bit beat up. However if I in engine bay operating the gears directly on shift paddle I still can't seem to find reverse. Is there some kind of lock out or what could I be missing. I tried adjusting the cables but that seemed to make things worse not better.
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I have a 05 1.8t jetta wagon , my transmission went out and it wouldnt grab it would be revving at 5k and 6k going about 20 mph then when i turn it on again, it worked fine but it was switching gear on time but very rough what could the problem be?
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I just picked up a 2000 VR6 golf a few weeks ago. been doing lots and lots of reading. It needs a transmission and was wondering what other things should I do why tranny is out of the way. I know some things can either only be done with tranny out or are a hell of a lot easier with it out of way. So what are your recommendations. Looking to pick up a tranny and get this bad boy on the road asap. Car ran great no issues or sounds my buddie just shifted to 3rd on highway and something walked loose in tranny and kaboom she went.
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I have a freshly built C6 in my F100. Vacuum line is new and not leaking. Idle RPM's are 800 in Park. Manifold vacuum is 16" in Park at idle and 14" in Drive at idle. I run a 2500 stall converter and a Hughes shift improver kit. The tranny is a '67 truck unit.
When slowing down at an intersection to make a turn; the tranny doesn't shift down. I make the turn and always pull away in Drive. The tranny does not shift down until about 5mph or less.
The tranny is now at a second shop and the tail housing has been pulled at least 4-5 times to check the governor. An early 70's valve body was even tried and yes; it will fit. Is this normal behavior for a C6? My Cruisomatic did the same thing.
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Okay so I bought this car and a week later tranny wouldn't shift out of first when I would slow down or at least it would take a min. I would hit 4or 5 grand then it would jolt me back. It wouldn't do it every time though. I bought it to go to college drove it the 900 miles on the highway and had no problems except right before I left town but then fine. All I did was change the tranny fluid before I left which I can confidently say I don't think has been changed before that. stunk bad bud no metal.
Alright now I'll go jump in the car to go to class and it will not leave first. If I put it in the manual mode it thinks it's in third but clearly if in doing 15 mph at 4000 rpm that's not the case. It doesn't do it every time. Kinda hit or miss. After driving for a min it usually shifts. Sometimes I make it the two miles without it shifting though. Also sometimes It will shift but once I slow down it won't shift out of first again.
I have seen a code for torque management since I bought the car. The check engine light is on now but I haven't seen the torque code since I change the MassES. that's not to say it's not still there. I used a different handheld computer for the check engine light the last time I did it and I could have missed it because I was unfamiliar with it. I have put a mass airflow sensor, battery, alternator, and changed the tranny fluid since I have owned the car. drained 3L of tranny fluid and put 3L back in. Oh and the last time I checked the light it said lean in bank 1 but I was assuming that was an unrelated issue.
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Sounds actually quieted down and my mechanic is thinking its more the alternator pulley.
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I have a 2010 5-speed Golf 2.5L. Around 2 months ago after coming back from vacation, i noticed that when shift from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd, there is horrible chatter/vibration coming from i assume the clutch/tranny. its been getting progressively worse and its at a point where i can hear the spare change rattle in the cup holder. the car had been sitting for a month, and i sort of "broke it in again" when i got back from vacation, not revving over 3 on the first tank, not over 4 on the second. It does have 100k kms on it, solid mix of highway and city. Is this something easily fixable, i dont have a warranty so i'd have to go aftermarket. Not down to pay two arms and 3 legs for something that could put me back in this situation yet again. if its the clutch id just go aftermarket with something a lot better, or if its the tranny id put a 6 speed in it, really lacking on the highway i believe. Or maybe it's something else.
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