I have been realizing that random every so often miles or months (varies completely) that my average fuel consumption resets itself and starts retaking brand new information and has discarded the old. Is this normal?
View 10 RepliesI have a "new to me" 2009 Touring that I purchased on 9/2/10. She had approximately 35K miles on her and an Average MPG of 39.6. While I have managed to increase that average up to 41.7, I'm tired of looking at the results of the previous owner's bad habits.
I have hit the Reset button on the Consumption screen several times, but the only thing resetting is the number of miles driven. I have reset both the Trip A and Trip B Odometers, again the only change is the trip odometer reading, NOT the Average MPGs.
This is making me a little crazy as my previous car was a 2004 Prius and the Average MPGs AND miles driven automatically reset any time I filled up with fuel.
In Menu -> Info Phone -> Fuel Consumption
How can I reset the fuel consumption?
I couldn't find it on Owner Manual...
Looking for the average oil consumption on the 5.0L V8 engine.
Dealer service indicated the 5.0L uses oil.
If so, why does this engine consume so much oil.
We have a 2011 Lexus RX350
It has a message saying "Average Speed 19 MPH"
1. what does it mean?
2. how to reset it?
For the average mileage calculation that appears in the odometer screen, what resets it? Seems that it self-resets at 1,000 miles. Is this correct?
View 6 Replies2003 Jetta GLI 2.8L 24v VR6 .... Last night I went to a friends house, everything was normal on the way there, probably 35-40 degrees out. When I got to his house and shut off the car and pulled the key out the power died (clock/trip meter reset) and the alarm started going off. It has done this before once or twice but I could never figure out what it was and it was never really an issue except for the clock resetting.
Jets won, went to leave and the car wouldn't start. It was raining gently at the time but the car has weathered worse. I replaced the battery ~2-4 months ago so it should definitely still be good. Jumped with my friend's car, started on the first try. I let it sit for a bit then we were on our way.
1/4 mile away in the middle of an intersection the car died, power steering, everything, and I had to drift to the other side of the road. The person across the street from me was a cop and it was 12:30 in the morning but he was gone before my car died. I have been driving 5/6 speeds all my life and I know I didn't cause the stall out. The dash lights flickered and dimmed. I shut everything off and then gave it a try and the car started right up. Revved the engine a few times, reverse and drove away. It was fine the rest of the way home.
The battery connections are tight. The car has started every single time up until now with the new battery. My old battery did leak some acid on the copper connectors and into the main positive power cable but I neutralized all of it and cleaned it off and it looked fine except for some pitting on the outside of the terminal clamp. The car is mostly stock except for the exhaust but that was years ago.
Current Battery Voltage: 12.37 ... I just started the car for the first time this morning and it started perfectly. started @ ~1200 and then settled down to ~800rpm after a bit, it usually does this when its cold out. No codes have been thrown.
I have a 2003 F250 4X4 PSD. How do I reset the "Average MPG" calculator? I asked because I have doubts that it is functioning properly.
Example:
Zero load, high-way driving.... the display shows 14.4mpg.
Zero load, in-town driving... the display shows 14.mpg.
1,000 lbs in the truck, pulling 4,000 lbs on the high-way for 600 miles (each way)..... the display shows 14.2mpg.
And since I've returned from the trip mentioned above with the 5K of load, it has not changed from displaying 14.2mpg.... even though I am back to high-way driving with zero load... been through 6 -8 tanks of fuel.
My expectation is that when I am traveling without a load on the high-way that it should get the best MPG. Subsequently, when I am pulling a load, utilizing the "Tow" function (without engaging O/D), that it would get worse MPG. However, it appears there is virtually no difference registered / displayed in MPG regardless of how I drive or what I tow.
Regarding my problem (outline below):
>> Went for a refueling stop, and thereafter proceeded onto the highway
>> Approx. 500m into the drive onto the highway the car started jerking and running rough with an initial puff of smoke (none thereafter)
>> Immediately after this initial jerking/shuddering there was a significant increase in fuel consumption i.e. from a familiar 8.2L/100km to 18L/100km in the cruise
>> We continued driving not knowing what it was (I suspected a spark plug may have stopped working)
>> Pulled up at the gas station to observe what went wrong inside the engine bay - no signs of any leaks, fuel sprays, etc. but only that the engine was shaking
>> I checked the rear of the car while the car was idling and observed a pulsating sound...some light smoke and a fuel-rich egg-like smell
>> Asked around and I was led to think the catalytic converter was ruined, so the next day I had the catalytic converter cut out
>> After removing the catalytic converter the problem persisted...although the engine operated with slightly less flow resistance
Attempt at diagnosing the problem
>> My wife called in a technician from BMW at Canal Walk to come have a look and what errors were flagged
>> The tech ran the diagnostic and no fault codes were indicated, except a few short circuit faults due to my incorrectly placing -ve on +ve when I tried to charge my cars battery with jumper cables
>> He proceeded to ask if we changed the spark plugs, I said yes. He then looked at the oil on the intake manifold and said there could be a torn valve on the intake manifold and that air that is not measured by the air mass flow sensor is entering the engine, which is causing the car to rev hunt (this problem of rev hunting has been with us for a while). The engine also shuts down uncommanded at stops and sometimes between shifting gears with the subsequent loss of power steering (very dangerous!!)
>> We also had the O2 sensor replaced a month before this occurence
The images attached (#1- #3) are marked up to indicate the component I am referring to.
[IMG] FilesImage_1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG] FilesImage_2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG] FilesImage_3.jpg[/IMG]
Went to Cape City VW in Cape Town and the part number for that orange thing/diaphragm is 06A 198 205A 'Repair kit for valve'. Is this significant? The car sounds as strange at idle...as if has noisy valves. I can upload (if there is an option) a sound clip of how the car sounds if this assists.
So, my 2005 Gen II Prius went for a scheduled service on Wednesday, 70k miles, Toyota main dealer. They called and said it needed new front brake pads and disks, I was surprised but gave the go ahead. There would occasionally have been a mild squealing sound from the brakes at very low speed so I accepted the pads might need replacing, I was surprised the disks needed replacing but it hard to argue about brakes, especially as I only have the car a year (I'm the second owner and it has a full Toyota service history). It had a "major" service, new spark plugs, new front brake pads and disks.
Since collecting it I've noticed that the engine seems to kick in more often and needs higher revs. The fuel consumption seems higher, normally mid 50's MPG (imperial gallon) now 35MPG. However it hasn't been driven many miles since its been serviced so its a low distance for calculating MPG. I've also noticed that the car seems to slow more quickly without applying the brakes, a regularly driven hill that I coast down at 48kph now only gives 35kph. Also, if I drive on a flat road for a mile or 2 and coast to a stop the front brake disks feel VERY hot, way too hot to touch, drivers side more so that passenger side.
When I go out to do errands around town (I live right in town) I get horrendous gas mileage. Now, I understand gas mileage is high at the beginning of a trip, but for this long and this high and under these circumstances? I'm getting ABOVE 10l/100km when I have 80% charge available (for americans, that's disgustingly high MPG like, pick-up truck high), AND my foot is completely off the gas. Literally, coasting, or braking, and I'm still sucking up gas. What the heck?
Is this just because it takes a certain amount of time for the engine to run no matter what or something? I still don't see any reason for me to be eating up all that gas when my foot isn't even on the gas AND most importantly, I have charge available. Feels pointless for me to use my car for what I use it for 70% of the time, which is for quick errands around town at low speeds. Thought the prius was suppose to be a superstar for this kind of thing.
I deliver mail out of my 2014 Prius C and noticed that my MPG is only about 30-35 MPG? What am I doing wrong?! I thought stop and go driving is the best way to get the best MPG?
View 19 RepliesFor those of you regular Gen3 (non PiP) that average in the low to mid 60's for MPG during the warmer months of the year....what do you average in the winter for mpg? And what is your yearly average?
View 19 RepliesSo we bought our 2013 prius v 3 last week and have since put on just under 300miles. This is our family vehicle but most of the miles have come from me driving it to work. My commute is in the Phoenix area and the temps have been in the 30-40s in the morning and 60s when I leave. Terrain is flat, and mostly fwy, maybe 70% hwy and 30% streets. My gripe is that I have never seen the avg get over 38mpg. I have not taken it out of Eco mode the past 4 days.
Should I wait till after the first full up to start getting real numbers?
I'm relatively new with my 2011 Prius. I've been averaging about 53.6 mpg, but I feel as if I can do better. I've set 54 mpg as this "magic number" that I'm aspiring to, but if I ever reach that, the number will probably rise to 55 and so on ... (As an aside, if I just set the cruise control while on the commute I'm about to describe, I get the same mileage as I do when I'm working on hypermiling, so I don't know if it's worth the effort with this route).
My daily commute is around 15 miles. About half of this is a hilly and curvy road. The PSL on that portion is 55 mph, and it is a two-lane (one lane in each direction) road. At least one of the hills are so steep that if I DWL, I'll lose between 15 to 20 mph from the bottom to the top; that's with the HSI "pegged" right before the power section of the line. I can maintain speed, or at least lose less, if I go into the power area. Additionally, there are several curves at the bottom of the hills where I must brake down to around 40 mph to safely negotiate the curve.
Finally, it is well-trafficked road as well, so, while observing the speed limit, I may have 10 cars piled up behind me, which makes me nervous.
What is the hourly fuel consumption for a Toyota Prius at idle? Purpose is keep cabin warm for 8 hours. Would this damage engine?
View 10 RepliesI'm so fed up with this Prius C. I did nothing but city driving and I got 302 for a tank at 8.247. It's going to the dealership to see if something is wrong. I haven't got over 369 on a tank before and that was highway driving.
View 19 RepliesA couple weeks ago, the "average fuel economy" display on my 350 F-Sport disappeared - when I'm looking through the different displays, it skips straight from "average speed" to "current fuel consumption". All the other displays are still there, so I'm not sure what caused this. I'm wondering if I'll have to bring it in to the dealership.
Some info about the car: It's a 2014 IS 350 F-Sport with ~6000 miles, and it just had its first service a few weeks ago (shortly before this problem started).
I changed the throttle body , PCV , clean the EGR tube and put new gasket in my Prius B 2010 hybrid.
The car was burn oil 1/2 liter per 1500km and since I changed the throttle body I noticed that the car burn 1/2 liter per 400 km .The job by the dealer.
Is there any problem in the installation?
We have two counters on MFD (1-trip data and 2-accumulated data), none of them show the gas consumption.
Every time I stop at gas station I have to divide distance by average gas consumption to know, beforehand, how many liters to top up the tank.
Question is: Is it possible to use VCDS to make the MFD show that information once it is obviously known by the board computer?
I just don't get what causes the Passat 1.8T to have worse fuel economy than expected considering its 0.27 drag coefficient, 3200lbs curb weight, and 4 cylinder 1.8t engine compared to a 3,500lbs 3.4 liter V6 0.31 cod Impala. I mean a new Ford Escape NON Hybrid SUV will get the fuel economy on the highway as a 1.8T Passat and that's sad considering that the Escape has the drag coefficient of a brick and the B5.5 Passats are among the 10 most aerodynamic cars ever sold in North America.
View 23 Replies