Golf V R32 :: Power Loss / Metallic Noise From Exhaust
Oct 15, 2013
Ive been noticing my R32 getting progressively slower the past few weeks. Disappointing as I was hoping the cooler weather would be making it feel a bit faster. Started off with just a little power loss now it feels like the car just does not want to go anywhere. I'm think clogged cats as the exhaust is sounding now (very metallic and raspy) but wanted to check if there was anything else I should check into first. Car has 83K. Any other symptoms to check for? There is no CEL or codes.
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Just purchased a pristine 2011 GLS with very low mileage. The car is essentially mint (garaged + well cared for by previous owner), but has one, occasionally noticeable issue: once warmed up, a very loud metallic buzz/rattle noise is heard from the rear of the car, particularly under low RPM acceleration. I've had many cars in the past with similar noises, which all turned out to be loose heat-shields at various locations along the exhaust systems. With this in mind, I've felt all the heat-shields on my "new" car, and they all seem to be securely in place - though some (especially the rear one over the muffler) seem to be minimally supported by design, and could potentially be resonating with certain exhaust frequencies.
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I bumped my exhaust pipe where it connects to the muffler pipe. Its not completely loose but it makes noise and im losing mpg. Its pretty rusted, can i get that part welded?
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I have a 2001 F450 7.3 chassis cab with just over 100k. I have a new problem... So far on two different occasions the service engine came on followed by a loss of power under a load and white smoke from the exhaust. Took it to the shop the first time, they determined it to be a dirty air filter, which seemed odd since it just happened all of a sudden. They changed air & fuel filter, problem gone- for two weeks..
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Initially I used to get cutting out of the engine randomly whilst driving which everyone believes is linked to an ECU issue i believe...I added some reddex fuel cleaner and that seemed to clear the problem up for myself which is a diesel 2.2 ...
However I was beginning to have starting issues where i would need to pump the gas to get the car started...I changed the battery and the glow plugs and yet i was still having issues. I had the air intake and filter looked a diagnostic test run both showing no issues and then one day I was driving and suddenly i got a huge loss of power and black smoke out of the exhaust....Seriously i had no grunt and i was a hazard to cars behind me....!!!! It was weird how first thing in the morning it seemed fine but later in the day i was getting this problem over and over again and eventually the car wouldnt start without a jump from another vehicle..
Any how i took it to various garages but in the end i took it to Rockar Hyundai at Dartford (i cannot recommend enough) but simply all they did was look at the fuel filter and saw that one of the injectors were faulty...After changing this the problem still occurred but again only when the car was warm...They then looked at the pipes leading to the injector that was faulty and then found that there was a crack/split in it and obviously when cold it was sealed but when warm was opening and i believe letting in air.... Anyhow they have changed that and the car feels great and no issues...
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I've been working on my car for a few weeks now and I've been doing my best to figure out. The source of this sort of 'metallic grinding' that I'm hearing within the cabin. I cant seem to pinpoint where it's coming from within the engine bay with the hood open (maybe due to the magnaflow exhaust diffusing the sound from the outside of my car). I can easily hear noise when I'm inside however with indications its coming from the lower central area of the engine bay. I drive an '04 Volkwagen GTI 1.8T
In the days I've been working on it I've replaced the:
1. Timing Belt (and tensioner pulley/tensioner dampener)
2. Water Pump
3. Serpentine Belt
4. Thermostat (and housing)
5. Clutch disk and flywheel (from a SMF to a LUK DMF clutch)
6. CV Axles (both drivers and passengers)
7. Clutch Cylinder Slave
8. Wheel Bearings (front left and right)
9. Rotors (Front Left and Right)
Diagnosis**
The car starts without any problems just as it use to prior to the replacements done. BUT it's once I get the car moving where I begin accelerating I start to hear a dull grinding noise/rumble that becomes more and more apparent the faster I go. It seems the sound is directly correspondent to wheel movement upon accelerating. Nevertheless I could be wrong.
I had a friend tag along to diagnose the sound and to him it sounded similar to the "tunneling of air not being properly sealed" but to me it sounds like a metallic grind. My friend also mentioned that he felt it was louder towards the passenger side in contrast to the drivers. As mentioned before the sound is reproduced anytime wheel movement occurs. I've checked torque spec for every replacement job done to the car so there are no loose bolts/nuts/brackets. (but there are exceptions, which I will get to).
Knowing that I've replaced both of the wheel bearings (and hub assembly) I can only assume the sources isn't from there. But I do admit a few mistakes while I had the car on jacks.
1. During the timing belt replacement I thought I would need to remove the exhaust (because I felt it would interfere with the lowering of the engine) so I, (without success), tried to remove the connection between the "bend of the exhaust" to the manifold which were 4 'turbo studs'. I had the worst time with the removal of studs but I was able to impact one them off, and as I tried another the strength of the impact broke one them half way through (meaning that I was able to unthread it a few threads but it snapped in the process, so I would need to somehow drill it out in order to replace it). This is where I gave up and did my best to install the one I had removed. Which I could only get threaded half of the way in.
-All in all I have 1 broken stud that still making a connection, and 1 protruding stud out of the 4 that connects the exhaust to the manifold.
Question: Can this be the cause of the sound? Without the full connection of 4 studs bolting exhaust to the manifold? Can this be the sound That my friend was referring to as the "tunneling air not being properly sealed"?
2. The second "mistake" isn't necessarily a mistake but a fault I found later that has to do with the Passenger CV Axle. I read a few forums here and read that it could be a problem with the axles, so I put the front end on jacks once again and found that there was a bit of movement of play on the axle shaft itself. In detail, the 2 connection points for the axle both at the Output differential flange and Hub assembly are secure and torqued to spec without any loose bolts.
BUT the rod itself seems to shift about a 1/2" between these two connecting points.
Question: Could THIS be the problem? With this type of 1/2" shift in the rod is it possible it can recreate the dull metallic grinding I'm hearing so much?
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I think I have a bad prop shaft CV joint. The car has been intermittently making a metallic clicking noise from the middle of the car. It can happen at any speed, a slow crawl to the highway. The frequency is completely tied to speed over the ground and seems to be once per revolution of the prop shaft. I put the car up on a lift yesterday and slid back the heat shield under the CV joint and bearing in the middle of the prop shaft. There is grease there that looks like it was thrown off of the shaft. Can the CV joint be replaced by itself or am I looking at replacing the entire prop shaft assembly?
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I know it's stupid but rattles and vibrations in an otherwise quiet car drive me absolutely crazy.
So, driving I have noticed this slight non-metallic vibration type noise. It seemed to come and go. So I emptied the car thinking it might be something I was carrying around. No such luck. Turned off the climate control, still there. I had the better half drive while I searched. I could never really see anything but thought it sounded like it might be either in the dash or around the floor area. Totally frustrated I unbuckle my seatbelt and crawl into the passenger floor head first. Nothing on the passenger side. I glance over to the Driver side footwell and notice the slightest vibration from a panel that covers the steering shaft as it goes through the firewall right behind the pedals. Aha! A plastic panel being held in place by 2 plastic type screws that are both loose. i tighten them down with a straight screw driver when I get home and silence! The rattle goes away. You might look at yours as well. I think this might apply to all Mk5 cars. Finding/Fixing a rattle like this for me is like finding money.
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Well, I have had this R since march and all was good until I started to hear some light metallic noise coming from lower end within a day or so seemed to go away and then it came back but more pronounced and more like chatter (marbles inc a can noise) at idle... anyways long story short decided to pull the tranny and see what the deal was.
Found the FW loose all 10 bolts about 1 - 1.5 turns out but at this point decided to remove to make sure nothing else was the problem.... Backside of DMF. found this spacer/sheild that is staked to the backside of FW that sits against the block all shredded.. Now to my question like I said the car was running fine ..so do I need this or can I slap this thing back together w/o this shield or is it really necessary.... cant swing the money right now for a whole new DMF / clutch kit
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My R32 has got about 9,400mi on it, and for the past 3k miles or so, i've been dealing with this metallic scraping/rattling noise coming from underneath the car. When I took it to the dealer, they said it was the exhaust flex pipe, so they replaced it under warranty. Next day after picking the car up, same noise. So i took it in again this morning and they are saying its the flex pipe again, and they don't know if it is fixable.
They are talking to VW tech assistance, and trying to figure something out. I really love this car, but if VW says there is no fix for it, I'm weary about possible future issues without fixes too. Apparently it has something to do with the length of the flex pipes and the material its made out of. He was saying one possible solution is stiffer engine mounts. We'll see where this goes.
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Over the course of the past week or so, I've been getting an odd noise from the rear driver side of the vehicle. It's kind of a metallic clicking sound, but the clicks are rather erratic. As I accelerate, the duration between clicks decreases. It's not a "click.. click... click..." noise either. More like, "click click... click... click click click... click click..." If that makes any sense at all. I'm thinking that my wheel bearing is going out, but I don't know for certain. What I might be looking at?
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I know this is an old subject that comes up from time to time. Most will notice it after an oil change or the first oil change anyway. Yet, some will never notice or experience the sound.
It is when you first start the engine, it has been described as a can of marbles being shaken or popping noise, maybe a metallic knock.
I have 17K on the truck now and this seems to be getting louder and more annoying. Sometimes it is louder than other times, and sometimes I don't hear it at all. I have always changed my oil right at 5,000 mile intervals. Fuel Filter at 13,500.
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About 3 weeks ago I purchased my MK7 GTI SE w/ DSG. About a week ago, I started noticing a very slight rasp around 3.5k and up under heavy WOT. Note the sound was very subtle in the cabin and unsure what it sounded like outside. This past weekend, I started noticing a loss in power, especially after 2nd gear. A strange sound under throttle--almost sounds like a supercharger winding down (hollow with a slight whine)--when giving a good bit of gas around 2.5k and up occurs. At first I though it was road noise from my neighborhoods new roads since the sound only occurs on new roads, but realized that noise never occurred the first few weeks I had the car. No CEL.
I took it to the dealership on a rainy day, so they couldn't see the loss of power with the car breaking loose, but they didn't find anything. I'm bringing it back this Friday to see what they can find. I talked with one of the service guys today and they think it may be a drivetrain problem. Supposedly no loose hoses and is holding boost normally. Any leads to what it may be??
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The car has 108k I bought it with 101k that being said I had no clue when the last tune up was or if the coils were replaced, now I did replace the transmission, transfer case and clutch since then I've noticed a loss of power and torque especially after 3-4k rpm car just seems to fall on its face, if I had to explain it I would say it feels like it went from being tuned to stock, I have no clue if the car had software or not. also some times I get a sputter or almost a hesitation from the rear, I have done the haldex service 2 weeks ago, It absolutely feels like the car isn't breathing right I don't hear the intake as much or cleanly I'm wondering if the intake manifold bushings are bad and could even cause this? doesn't seem to pull as much just from the start though I used to just drive normal and the car almost felt like it was pulling its self doesn't feel anywhere as quick.
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So I know turbos can be prone to heatsoak. Does the same type of deal apply to SCs?
I guess my question is; when on the track, the SC obviously gets hotter than hell. Subsequently, do you lose power due to the SC possibly "overheating"?
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I seem to loose almost all power once I hit 5k rpms. Like I will floor the car and Ill feel a nice pull and all of a sudden once I hit 5k it slowly starts climing like a hybrid civic. wtf? Could this be a misfire, tune problem, exhaust leak IDK
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I just had my '12 GTI's 40,000 mile service done about 2 weeks ago. I put in a K&N air filter the day after the service. The only thing I noticed about the car after service was that I could smell coolant, they either spilled some or its burping some cause it was filled past the max fill line. Outside of that everything was copacetic until yesterday morning.
On my way to the gym with cruise control on ~74 mph on the highway I had sudden power loss, EPC light came on and power returned although felt reduced. When I left the gym it was off and I made it about a mile when under acceleration it hit at about 3k rpm, again sudden power loss and EPC light, power returned reduced. Drove about 5 miles to work and did a little googling with a million results.
When I left work to go home I made it about ten minutes into my drive before it happened. This time the CEL came on. I was able to drive home and back to work again this morning but I keep having power shutters followed by the EPC. I haven't had much time to dig into anything but I checked the connection of the coils and the intake connections with a flashlight at 4:30 this morning. Thinking it might be the MAF only because I recently installed the K&N and have read the oil can kill MAF's and I might stop to get a can of cleaner on my way home to try that route.
IF that doesn't work maybe I can get it on a Vag Com in the next couple days to get it sorted out.
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Replaced my cam follower at 37,000 mi and performed an oil change. Follower was in good shape - all done at a local reputable tuning shop. Accelerating on the highway, above say 2500 rpm, loss in power.
Car feels dull under load. Called dealer for advice (I'm tight with the owner, the tuning shop was closed at this point) and said that I might have a fuel pump or cam shaft problem. Car was fine before service.
What it could be? Will obviously call the tuning shop on Monday, but wanted to vortex advice so I could be armed and ready!!!
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Today i come here for a AC/Compressor trouble: The AC on my Jetta 2000 2.0 works very well, however it seems that the engine loses a lot of power when the AC is on (the acceleration becomes very slow), and at the moment of turn on the compressor, the engine revolutions down to 400 rpm for a couple of seconds (after back to normality, 800rpm on idle).
I know that the power loss on engine is "normal" with the AC, but in mi case, seems excessive, and the fuel consumption, when the AC is on is vey high too. I think that maybe the compressor is stuck, but I'm not sure about that.
As additional information, i scanned the engine codes an throws P0422 (related to oxygen sensor)
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So I washed my R yesterday, and then when I started to drive to the store and my car started to sputter and it would let me rev. I think I may have gotten water into the exhaust...but I'm not to sure what really happen.
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I bought a 2000 jetta gls vr6 5-speed. Only had the car about 4 weeks, already I am in, ball joints, struts, brakes, core leaks and my half shaft fell off at the transmission. Now, driveabilty issue.
Severe loss of power, sputtering bad. when i shift, the car revs a bit. installed new O2 sensor due to a rich code and a out of range code. Now the EPC light is on with an implausible brake switch signal. Replaced switch still comes back on. Still running like poop. Changed the plugs also about 1k back. I just ordered a MAF.
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