Golf V R32 :: Persistent Misfires At Idle
Dec 4, 2012
In the last few months, I've been having misfires at idle. I didn't realize at first what the vibration was, since I had cams installed over the summer and had my flywheel replaced a couple of weeks ago. I have replaced the plugs and coil packs and for a couple of days, it ran fine. Tonight, they started up again, mostly in a single cylinder. I swapped out coil packs - no change. Switched plugs between two cylinders - the misfire followed the plug. Swapped in an old plug - things improved, misfires went from 2-3 per second to maybe one every 5-10 seconds. Few to no misfires when revs go up. My battery is 5 years old, could that be an issue? Wire harnesses - do they go bad?
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I've got a R32 with nearly 100K miles on it. Several days ago I was adjusting my shifter cables and am not sure if i accidentally leaned up against any sensors or their associated connectors that are in that vicinity. I took the car for a drive to feel how the shifter adjustment had turned out. I was building engine RPM from 2500-4000 RPM, I let off the acceleration pedal and felt a small and new kick as if something got loose, popped off, or backfired. Not sure what it was but my engine started to misfire in what seemed to be in several cylinders. It idles rough but the needle doesn't exceed 1000 RPM during idle. When driving calmly, there is sporadic misfire. If pushed hard to build RPM, it will misfire heavily.
I scanned the vehicle and got the following codes,
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
I've checked
- Every hose I can see and feel for Vacuum leaks
- Checked all my fuses
- Swapped coils from banks 1,3,5, with 2,4,6
- Disconnected, cleaned and reconnected camshaft hall sender sensors and tightened the bolts.
- Have erased the coded and the same codes are back.
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2005 gti 1.8t having really rough idle and misfires at idle fine while driving pulling codes:
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0304
Unplugged MAF and didn't make a difference...
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I have an 03 vr6. I'm getting codes p0300, 0303, and 0304. I changed the plugs and the coils and still has changed nothing. In the morning when I first go to start the car it has a rough start and idles rough. But after letting it warm up it is fine. It drives perfectly fine, no misfires. None of this started happening until the car ran hot a few weeks ago. Did a compression test and everything came up fine. So would could my issue be? I'm at a loss here. I was thinking fuel issue but if it was a fuel issue, wouldn't it run rough all the time?
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I have a mk4 1.8t Gti. Recently I have been having issues with idle and boost. I read the codes and multiple random misfires in all 4 cylinders came up, idle control and the crank, knock, and o2 sensor came up. Shows that system is running to lean as well. I changed the spark plugs and wires, check the coil packs they where done about 1k miles so I expect them to be perfectly fine. When I clear the codes it idles below 9-8k rpms. I also noticed the breather hose coming out of the valve cover into the EGT has a hole melted into it, could this cause any of my issues?
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so the car was taken to the dealer TWICE for the exact same symptoms. Few drops of oil on garage floor after day of driving and sitting overnight. The first time they retorqued the drain plug which was loose and the second time they retorqued the oil pan bolts, which were loose. There was some residual oil on the undercarriage tray after the first time that they cleaned off the second time. But today I noticed the small holes in the undercarriage tray on the passenger side of vehicle to be wet with oil substance, and a drop of oil on the floor. The car has 2700 miles and had proper break in.
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So I took a trip from Dallas to Florida, and on the way back my check engine light came on. The car shakes at idle, almost like it wants to take off. I drove it back to Dallas like that since the car runs normal on the high way. I got it scanned at autozone and the code said it had multiple random misfires. I'll be taking to the dealer in the morning, but what it could be? The car jumped over 50K during the trip hopefully the dealer will be nice and cover it.
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When I start my 1999 1.8 petrol passat it needs some throttle to start, low idle speed, misfires, drop in idle, so boot the throtle full - still no pick up and sits on 1000 rpm busy backfiring away! It started after fitting a new windscreen wiper motor, battery was disconnected but went back ok, all other electrics work and no warning on the dash. Didn't touch anything in the engine bay nor were there any issues before I changed the wiper motor.
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I recently purchased a 1969 dodge dart, with the 225 inline 6. I have done the usual repairs (fluid changes, spark plugs and wires, fuel pump and line, thermostat, and even carburetor and distributor). The car starts and drives alright except when at idle such as red lights where it begins to tremble and shuts off. I have to start it again and begin to accelerate it while idling to keep it from giving out. I fixed the timing and switched to electrical distributor but the problem has persisted.
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I am trying to track down a problem for a friend with a 2001 Passat, 1.8L. The car has 150k and had a timing belt about 50k ago. About 3 weeks ago, it started misfiring badly on idle. In gear driving around, it purrs like a kitten. I scanned for codes and got:
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 4B0 906 018 CL
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 16551
9 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
At first I thought it might be a vacuum leak, but it looks like when he took it in 2 weeks ago they replaced all the vacuum hoses. It is unclear when he last had sparks and coils. I understand the likely culprits are:
sparks
coils
ICM
I am hesitant to blame sparks/coils if he is getting misfires on all 4 cyl. It seems like they might have screwed up the timing belt install given the camshaft sensor error, but he's been running for 50k miles since the change, and this idle issue just appeared recently.
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I have 11 tiguan 2.0T. When I start it up is runs rough below 1200 rpm. The check engine light starts flashing. The codes are all 4 cylinders for random cylinder misfire. When I go drive it around the roughness calms down but doesn't go away and the idle will start jumping up and down. It goes to 1500 back to 800. Then 1700 back to 800. It had even hit 2400 once. I have changed the pcv about 2 months ago. I checked it and it looks fine. One place said maf. I cleaned it and no change. Running out of options.
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2002 V10 72k, starts fine, runs fine, occasionally misfires and will stall at idle. So far.
Replace boots
Replaced Air Filter
Tested resistance in all coil packs all within value
CODE P0720 - OSS (replaced, knew it wasn't it but...)
Seafoamed truck (very anticlimatic)
Cleaned MAS
Headed to clean IAC next.
Still has the original plugs, any reason to change them yet?
Does the IAC have a function when engine is at temperature? Getting ready to bite the bullet on AE. Any first hand experience with AE? I STFF and couldn't find anything.
I'm about 90% convinced it's a bad COP, but I'm not about to buy 10 of them on I think. Also not inclined to switch each COP with a known good one. I'm hoping the AE will show misfires and pending codes.
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After a long trip from Houston to Dallas, my vehicle started to ride rough and eventually die on idle. It seems to idle fine, but then die after the first minute. I am getting code P306 and others all dealing with random misfires and misfires on ALL cylinders. The troubleshooting steps I have taken so far to no avail are:
(1) Replaced spark plugs with pre-gapped iridium
(2) Checked ignition coils
(2) Checked all vacuum hoses and air intake leaks
(3) Changed air filter(not a big deal)
(4) Removed and cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner thoroughly
(5) Checked the intake manifold for leaks and did not find any.
(6) Computer PCM checked for updates and issues at dealer
The dealer said it needed new fuel injectors, which seemed kind of fishy due to the following symptom:
The car runs GREAT at highway speeds, but it is unable to maintain an idle for an extended period of time and dies due to misfires. I hear a chugging in the engine sometimes.
Due to these symptoms, I self diagnosed this as a fuel regulator?
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It's a 2004 V8 Touareg with 100k miles.
Getting horrible misfires and they're jumping around to different cylinders + other intermittent codes. The symptoms are ROUGH idle, and hesitating/shaking under acceleration.
The MIL has never come on in this car. But, it illuminates when you turn the key forward. (Almost like previous owner coded the light out?)
Replaced all 8 spark plugs, just ordered 8 new ignition coils. Hoping the misfires are the coil packs but obviously theres some other stuff going on here.
Pulled codes 2 weeks ago:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
3) misfire cylinder 8 (P0308 )
4) warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 2 (P0431)
5) secondary air injection system insufficient flow bank 1 (P0491)
6) secondary air injection system insufficient flow bank 2 (P0492)
7) 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1 (P0153)
Pulled codes 1 week ago:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 2 (P0302)
3) misfire cylinder 3 (P0303)
4) 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1 (P0153)
Pulled codes tonight:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 2 (P0302)
3) misfire cylinder 3 (P0303)
4) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
Cleared codes. Swapped ignition coils from 2 & 3 with 7 & 8. Drove around the block, then re-ran them:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
3) misfire cylinder 5 (P0305)
4) misfire cylinder 6 (P0206)
5) misfire cylinder 7 (P0307)
6) misfire cylinder 8 (P0308 )
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Ok so I have the 2009 f150 4.6l 2wd. Have random misfire codes. Horrid idle. I replaced all of the spark plugs, coil packs, and even the injectors on 1/3/4. Still codes nothing is better. I'm thinking maybe an intake manifold leak,? I see no real signs but I do hear that little pop pop pop. Now I have a gasket kit for it but I see you can order complete manifold kits with thermostat and gaskets on amazon for like 60 bucks more. The issue is I see none that fit my truck. Is it the same as the mustang? Hate to blow more cash as its adding up.
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I have a 2006 Chrysler Sebring Convertible 2.7L engine. Replaced water pump and spark plugs. We triple checked the alignment on the chain and are sure the timing is fine. Car started right up. Now running rough idle and engine light comes on. Codes read misfires on 1, 3, and 5 cylinders.
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How the cylinders are numbered as your facing the car from the front left to right (forgot the order) so I can replace coil packs on cyl 5&6 (238 misfires in 2min is not good).
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So I have never worked on the 2.5 before, I have an 01 A4 1.8T so I am used to VAG products though. The other day my neighbor had a CEL light, when I read the code it was a misfire in cylinder 2. Since it was a single cylinder I told him it was most likely a coil pack but asked if he had ever done plugs. He bought the car with around 60k and it now has 90k but he didn't think they were ever done. So I suggested swapping them out with the new coil pack. So he bought a (5) plugs and (3) coils since that is all they had local. Initially he just replaced the one coil and said the car was running great. Then when he had time he threw the new plugs in (Autolite Iridium don't recall #) and put the other coils in. After doing this the car went into limp mode and is showing random misfires in all cylinders. He pulled one of the new plugs and noticed that the dimensions of the plug appear different than the OEM plug.
The OEM plug has a longer threaded section so it would project into the cylinder further and the insulator on the new plug appears to have several rubber seals on it. Since he is getting misfires on all cylinders I would think it is plug related especially since the plugs are dimensionaly different, but he even checked the manufacturers website and they say these are a direct replacement. Did they change the plug design or is this a known issue with some cross references?
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I am out of town for the weekend and my car just decided to throw a CEL and EPC light. Immediately felt a loss of power and I thought maybe limp mode. Got to my friends house, turned it off, and now when I turn it back on, it feels like it is miss fireing (I think, I dont know because I dont know what miss firing is supposed to feel like) The car is vibrating at low RPM and it does not sound smooth if you know what I mean but it smooths out if I give it a bit of gass, but not compleatly.
Could this be a bad ECU? (thought maybe since the EPC light was on but I dont know if that means ECU or something else) but the EPC light has not come back on when I restart it, but the CEL does blink continuously. It is Saturday night and I have a 2.5 hour drive tomorrow. Obviously no way to get it looked at it tomorrow, so can I limp it home at 40? The car has not failed to start yet, and I thought a bad EPC would mean the car would not start.Or if I can just drive real slow.
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Yesterday it was the coldest day my car has ever experienced at -27*C or -16F. I only live about 10 minutes from work in stop and go traffic so the car barely reached operating temp as I was arriving to work.
After about 10 hours, I went outside at the end of the day, the temps had warmed slightly and I started the car and let it idle for about 1 minute before driving off. After about 45 seconds I got a series of what seemed to be misfires. The EPC light flashed but eventually turned off, and where the odometer normally appears there was an exclamation point next to a symbol that looked like cruise had been activated. A message appeared in the MFD to the effect of "malfunction - bring car for service"
I reved the car slightly a few times-all seemed good- and left. All was good. Stopped the car a few blocks after and restarted and the warning symbol was gone and all was back to normal.
Today has been warmer and there have been no issues with it.
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I am getting random misfires on cylinders 4, 5, and 6. Mostly on 6, less on 5, and even less on 4. Cylinders 1-2-3 show ZERO misfires. I am using vag-com to monitor these. Mostly doing it on idle, cruise seems fine but occasionally when shifting I feel it when engaging the next gear. It doesn't buck but I feel a little hesitation. Cruising and accelerating I do not feel it. Its very strange. A couple times during extended idling I have even gotten a flashing CEL. Fuel mileage has been pretty bad ever since I got the car in December. Average tank gets me 250-270.
I tried swapping coils with 123, and the problem stayed on 456. Coils are all new since I got the car. Plugs are fairly new (under 5K) and I pulled a couple to check, they looked fine and gap was about .028. I might try a new set but my gut is telling me the problem is some where else. I would like to verify/test grounds but I don't know where the harness grounds out.
I also want to get a vacuum gauge on the FPR, or check fuel pressure at idle. I replaced one cracked vacuum line, i am thinning there might be others since there seems to be miles of vacuum line on MK4's. Also have a new fuel filter to install, mine appears to be OEM and the car has 97K.
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