Just got home after a harrowing drive in the dark without dashboard lights, no climate control or turn signals or cruise control. Both the turn signals on the dash remain constantly on after the engine was turned off. Wondering if it might be the fuses but will look at first light. In the meantime...
what might have caused this all of a sudden?
2003 Jetta GLI 2.8L 24v VR6 .... Last night I went to a friends house, everything was normal on the way there, probably 35-40 degrees out. When I got to his house and shut off the car and pulled the key out the power died (clock/trip meter reset) and the alarm started going off. It has done this before once or twice but I could never figure out what it was and it was never really an issue except for the clock resetting.
Jets won, went to leave and the car wouldn't start. It was raining gently at the time but the car has weathered worse. I replaced the battery ~2-4 months ago so it should definitely still be good. Jumped with my friend's car, started on the first try. I let it sit for a bit then we were on our way.
1/4 mile away in the middle of an intersection the car died, power steering, everything, and I had to drift to the other side of the road. The person across the street from me was a cop and it was 12:30 in the morning but he was gone before my car died. I have been driving 5/6 speeds all my life and I know I didn't cause the stall out. The dash lights flickered and dimmed. I shut everything off and then gave it a try and the car started right up. Revved the engine a few times, reverse and drove away. It was fine the rest of the way home.
The battery connections are tight. The car has started every single time up until now with the new battery. My old battery did leak some acid on the copper connectors and into the main positive power cable but I neutralized all of it and cleaned it off and it looked fine except for some pitting on the outside of the terminal clamp. The car is mostly stock except for the exhaust but that was years ago.
Current Battery Voltage: 12.37 ... I just started the car for the first time this morning and it started perfectly. started @ ~1200 and then settled down to ~800rpm after a bit, it usually does this when its cold out. No codes have been thrown.
Are there any fuses or relays that I could look for besides what the owners manual calls out? Haynes manual is useless w/this problem also. Everything else seems to work fine. Haven't tried the AC or heat, but my gauges, pwr locks and mirrors are all fine. I'm stuck w/the windows down and no tunes.
View 3 RepliesA couple years ago my car got stuck in Park, in which I had discovered my brake lights and a few other electrical fuses blew at the same time. It has happened randomly about 4-5 other times since, in which I take it back to the dealership and they "fix it" temporarily. After about a 1 1/2 years of no trouble, it happened again, and the dealership traced it back to the GEM module, which they replaced for me. Electrical components I forgot I had (like automatic locking doors) came back- for about a week. I got stuck in Park again, lost my break lights, as well as some other functions. I haven't noticed this problem on the focus with other discussions. Now it has added to much time in the shop, multiple FORD dealerships unable to fix it properly, and lots of wasted money. Shouldn't a new electrical unit fix the problem?
View 6 Replies2003 f150 supercrew with 166,000 on it. Daily driver. Keeps randomly blowing 10A fuse under dash that controls ABS4X4 urn signals. No routine causes. Just blows at random times. Fuses were blowing instantly upon replacing then stopped. Doesn't blow when turning switches for turn signals or when turning it to 4x4. Just does it randomly. Sometimes will go months without blowing. Tore dash apart and can't find any wiring issues there. Could be somewhere else? Is ABS4X4. Turn signals going bad?
View 6 RepliesSo i had my starter crap out on me the other day, it destroyed its self in good fashion. So i replaced it thinking that was going to be the only problem, but once i replaced the starter it STILL wouldn't start. the starter spins, but doesn't engage the flywheel. I can start the car with a bump start no problem...
Things I have done:
- Replaced the battery - 660CCA AcDelco
- Replaced the Ground wires, and positive, with new 1 gauge wire, and cleaned the connections.
- Replaced the starter A new one from acdelco, and a Used one (that was in working order)
Getting 13-13.5 volts while running.
Signal wire is fine, as I've tested the starter by completely bypassing it and just jumping straight from the Batter, still the same situation.
My only thought has been.. is it feasible that the starter may have destroyed a couple of teeth on the flywheel.... so when i goto engage the starter it might go for a quarter revolution and then find the location with the missing teeth and just spin ?
Car is a 20th, 1.8t 6-speed.
I noticed something the other day that is happening occasionally on acceleration. At partial throttle, usually pulling away from a light or stop sign, I get this weird hesitation. It only happens at partial throttle and usually only in first, sometimes in second. As the RPMs increase up to around 3k, it's as if I lose power for a second. You can feel the car stop accelerating for a second, then it begins to pull again.
If it's under heavy acceleration it never happens. It doesn't feel like the clutch slipping, more like the motor hesitating, but there's no noises or missing or anything like that. The RPMs don't jump up or anything. It's like for a second it's making no power, then it comes back.
I'm 350 miles into break-in period. Just had a DXD stage 2 daily clutch installed on Tuesday. APR Stage 2+ tune with VWR intake and APR downpipe and HPFP. Been babying car since clutch was installed. Under partial throttle going up hill clutch is slipping in 5th and 6th.
I'm also experiencing a terrible vibration thru the chassis at 2k RPM in upper gears with light load on engine.
Buddy of mine woke up with a GLI that runs like this. Stage 2 Uni, cold air, 3 inch turbo back. [URL] ....
View 2 RepliesSo the other day i was driving down the road, pulled into the gas station and the car shut off and the dash began flickering rapidly.
I popped the hood and the thing that controls the air fuel mixture- when you step on the peddle it moves(sorry cant think right now lol) well it is moving slightly back and forth rapidly also.
I popped the panel under the steering wheel off because i heard a flickering noise coming from it when the key was turned and it was coming from the fuel pump relay.
My question is- is the fuel pump relay something that would just fail and cause the car to shut off. or is it making the clicking noise an indicator that there is a problem somewhere. I looked up the part and it is only 40 bucks, but I am low on money and cant afford to be fishing around ordering parts trying to diagnose the problem.
Buick LeSabre 2002.. Several months ago, several electric items in my car failed... all at once. For the cig lighter especially, I looked through both fuseboxes (front and back) for any fuse that looked like it might be responsible for that circuit. I was checking the abbreviations on the fusebox diagrams and wasn't able to find a busted fuse.
However, with several things going wrong at once, I wonder if it was some other kind of fuse or relay. I don't have the equipment to check relays, thought I found how to do it on YouTube. What might be causing them all to stop working at once.
Cigarette Lighter
Interior/Cabin Lights
Reverse Lights
Power door locks
Trunk light
I have a 2007 Chev Tahoe. Description of Problem: Past month engine light came on. Then some days for a short time will go off. When light is on the auto start wont work. Battery has been drained so today I changed the battery and have a total electrical power system failure. Zero power to anything. Last month I put a scanner on it but i didnt save the code. It was related to a "throttle body module" i think. Have been reading about the BCM also so im at a complete loss...
View 4 RepliesLast week i took my '04 V10 in for tires/brakes/rotors with a local service shop. The next day they called saying one of the service attendants must have left the keys in the car overnight, because the battery isn't working right.Here is what happens (all within about 15 seconds)
1. Put key in ignition, engine starts normally
2. Multiple error lights immediately start flashing (engine, glow plug,tire pressure, etc, etc...
3. The MFI screen goes black (like the Tony Soprano finale)
4. the center console flashes "safe ..........." for a split second then goes blank as well.
5. the a/c does not run at all during this
6. the engine RPMs will not increase despite pressing on the accelerator.
7. the engine suddenly stops.
8. everything is then dead on the car.
This all takes place over about 10-15 seconds. This entire process can be reproduced by taking the key out and starting over. They are shipping the car out to a dealer for further evaluation, their computer gave them some sort of "battery learning error", but they were unable to reset it. I haven't heard of a dead battery behaving like this. The Touareg never ceases to amaze
I bought my Treg a on 1/16/05 only 46 days ago and have had now twice electrical failures both at while driving on freeways about 70-75 miles an hour. Every light on my treg went off for a few seconds including the MFI Radio and even the headlights. when everything went back on the xenons did their little wink. Possible 04 problem? Going to take it to my dealership on monday.
View 3 RepliesSo a co-worker needed a jump after leaving her lights on. Her car was parked on a busy road and I had to pull up next to her in the opposing traffic lane to be able to reach her battery. In my haste I put the clamps on the wrong battery terminals on MY car (hers were correctly attached). When I got in my car to start it I could see the wires were smoking and immediately got out and disconnected the cables. We ultimately needed to purchase new cables and were able to start the car. The problem is now her radio doesn't work and when she brought it to the dealer they said there is some kind of electrical system failure?!?! Is that possible? Her car works perfectly fine, except for the radio now so not sure what happened.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2009 Camry Hybrid. Both driver side door locks work/fail intermittently. This sometimes does/doesn't happen when i use the inside door panel button, outside door button, outside hand sensor when i grab the door latch, remote control buttons, gear shift . . . etc. I see the driver side locks open/close or not move while I see the passenger side doors lock/unlock correctly.
For some reason, it seems to be a bit better when the weather gets warmer around hear in the northeast. I thought it might have something to do with the integration relay. But I'm not exactly sure where it is. I looked under the dashboard, too many wires!. On the drivers side I have located the fuse box, unplugged most of the wires, plugged them back in and it seemed to work only for a day or two, but the temperature also warmed up on those days.
I have a 1997 Expedition that every time I replace the #16 fuse it blows when the high beams are on. It seems that it happens only when in drive and accelerating from a stopped position. I wonder if it could be either the clock spring or the multi-switch cause the short. I checked the wires on the headlights and they are fine. Again the high beams work when the truck is sitting still and the fuse is new.
View 4 RepliesNew ghost in the machine.
Pulled out of the driveway two days ago to go trailer a wrecked car home. Got about half a mile up the road, and my electrical system started flickering. Engine died, dash went nuts, everything is clicking on and off real fast. This went on for a minute or two, then stopped. After a little internal debate, I decided to continue on.
Ran fine for another mile or so. Hitched up the trailer and checked the lights, everything A-OK. Started rolling down the lane and the truck went dark. Engine shut down, no sign of electrical power anywhere. It was as if my batteries had been suddenly abducted by aliens. Truck stayed dark for about 5 - 10 seconds, then like a switch was thrown all the electric came back on. Dropped the trailer and drove back to the house without incident. Not towing a car like this.
Checked the battery connections. Looked really good and tight. Pulled and cleaned them anyways.
Pulled the fuse box out from under the dash and looked for water damage. Absolutely no sign of moisture or corrosion anywhere on the box or anything else under the dash.
Started the truck and turned every electrical item I could think of on. Truck sat and idled for 15 minutes without a hiccup. Voltage at the batteries was normal. I wiggled wires everywhere with no effect.
Decided to quit for the night. Got into the truck to move it to it's parking spot and POOF, all went dark again. Engine died, heater blower, radio, headlights, interior lights, all dark. About 5 seconds later, everything came back online.
No CEL. No other symptoms. She was either running perfectly or had no juice at all.
I drove it last night to the mechanic I use. 7 miles, bumps, potholes, stop and go traffic, no issues.
Just spoke with the mechanic. They can't reproduce the problem. I told him I can't reproduce it on demand either. I asked that they put it up on the rack and check all the ground points.
So I just got a new Passport Radar for the car and noticed that im getting no power...Checked the fuse box and and fuse was blown...replace it and the fuse blows automatically.
View 6 RepliesMy fuses on the directional (10 amp) and Hazard lights (15 amp) keep blowing out it just happened all of a sudden? What it can be? t 2004 R32....
View 1 RepliesI narrowed my battery drain to the box on top of the battery. When I disconnect all three fuses and the 4th wire from inside the box my draw goes to 0 but when I connect any of those 4 it will go back up. Connecting all of them will not increase the draw any more but it seems all of them are connected in some way?
View 3 Replies