Golf V R32 :: Paint On The Spring Is Starting To Flake Off
Aug 25, 2009
I have a set of V Maxx's on my car for a couple of months...and i noticed that the red paint on the spring is starting to flake off...is there anything i could do to re-coat them or something? this happened on my patec coilovers on my MK IV.
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So I decided to clean my VWR intake filter for the first time yesterday. The recommended mileage is every 20,000 miles and I decided to clean it after 18,000 just to be safe. After using the recommended ITG cleaner the filter started to flake off and fall apart. It's not totally deteriorated but it has lost a good amount of foam leaving me with a smaller, malformed filter. For one of the most expensive intakes on the market I did not expect this.
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This noise I have is driving me crazy, installed neuspeed race springs and now I have this weird spring noise, sounds like the springs are binding and then releasing when you turn the wheel, like a clicking dinging noise, it's on both sides and happens when moving slow and turning the wheel and when stationary and turning wheel, it sounds like tug and release not really spring bind I checked install and everything is correct even disassembled bearing assembly and everything is fine, lubed spring seats with silicone paste nothing is working.
When looking at the spring and turning wheel it's almost like the spring is getting stuck on the middle part of the seat then releasing, I know this was a common problem on the mk6 but I haven't heard anything about the mk7 the spring is seated in the lower perch perfectly the upper is were the noise is coming from you can see as you turn the upper bearing by hand it actually somewhat twists the spring and then releases and that's what makes the noise, and it dose not move in a nice circular motion kind of like an egg shaped rotation and it makes the spring flex and pop I think there's a problem with the springs,
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Adding cruise control to F350 XL I just bought. I got a steering wheel with the buttons. But I am having problems with the clock spring. Mine has an 8 wire plug with only 6 pins on the big plug and all of the clock springs I have found have only a 6 wire plug for the big one. Without changing my clock spring I have no where to plug in the cruise wiring. All have been for right year model with cruise and even tried different years but none will plug in under the dash.
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Conversion from the dana 50 to the newer dana 60 with coil spring? My Dana 50 has called it quits so while my front end is already off the vehicle already why not make improvements. Ford used the 50 for 1999 to 2002 then upgraded to the 60, I'm guessing it was for a reason!
I've read this article on a similar project but the dana 60 had leaf springs as well: Dana 60 Conversion for F250 years 1986-1996 .: Articles I'd prefer coil spring, nothing more then personal preference with a bit of better ride quality. The donor vehicle is a 06 SRW F250 This is not what I'll be getting but just as an example of the parts I would get.
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I hope i don't give the impression on my very first post that I'm a total retard......but ...I can't figure out for the life of me how to get those spring line coupling apart! I've removed the clips...but it just won't pull apart. Is there a tool to release the garter spring?
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So I got my Gas Tank Fix done a couple weeks back, and ever since (at least that I can remember) whenever the car turns on I get this 1-2 second wiff of a paint smell kinda....like something was freshly painted, then it goes away almost instantly.
Do you think something happened to my car at the dealer and they covered it up? Seems weird though, you'd think you'd be able to smell the paint more often.
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I've got some parts of the pain on my reflex silver wagon that have begun chipping off of the rear bumper near the edge. I'm assuming the PO was trying to lift something into the back and didn't quite make it high enough...a few times. Anyway, the surface underneath the paint is black, so I'm assuming it's plastic.
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I bought my mk4 GTi about a year ago. The paint around the rear wheel well all the way down to the rocker started to bubble quickly and I can see now it's all rotted. Looks like someone covered it up for a quick sale as it all happened very quickly. Anyway, I'm now looking to repair this and want to make sure I take the best route. I linked some pictures. I've been told to cut it out, weld a patch panel, and epoxy primer then build with bondo and go through painting procedure.
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I'm having trouble getting the strut back through the steering knuckle. I used the 1/4 ratchet to spread it and get the strut out but I can't get the strut to go back after installing the VWR spring. I've tried speaking with many tools now and it's just so damn stuck. I hope I haven't damaged anything by hammering a wedge into the point where the ratchet is supposed to spread it. After a couple of tries the ratchet doesn't seem to spread it at all.
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What is the paint code for the mirror caps that are painted high gloss black ? I have to replace mine and they don't come painted smh
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So just came out to my car this morning and noticed this horrible paint peeling on my rear drive side fender!! Yes I'm lowered but have stock wheels and 225 tires, impossible to run the outside fender. What caused this? The paint is like paper is just flakes off when I touch it.
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Seems to happen to just before the pedal reaches the floor, and then again just as I'm releasing it. It doesn't really have a sound per se, but it feels a bit like a rusty spring creaking....if that makes any sense.
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Is an alignment after a spring install necessary?
Getting my H&R springs installed tomorrow and was curious
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Brakes: Current setup has over 40,000 miles. OEM rotors with Hawk HPS pads. Stiffing kit aka brass bushings installed. Brakes feel rough. Having problems with sticking and ABS on one side. I switched the pads and the sliders from left to right. The problem seems to have moved when pads and sliders were switched around. Possible solutions: brake caliper rebuild. I already bleed the brakes and clutch out. What pads should I use next? Is braided lines a good idea??
Paint: Front bumper is shot, hood has rock chips, mirrors need work out and rear bumper could use a lil love. Should I paint these parts Reflex silver? Paint the whole car again?? Or wrap the car? What about wrapping the whole car? Matte silver? Brushed Silver? Shiny Silver? Or maybe a camo wrap? What's ya input, how bout I rattle can these parts?? Show car or street brawler??
TIRES: My Nitto NT05's have about 2/32's left. Good dry grip, tons of DRY grip but everything else is just ok. Cost, weight, wet traction, comfort, looks, noise and vibration are all OK. Tire wear is less than expected. I KNOW that the Michelin Super Sports are the TOP TIRE right now. Everything about the Super Sport is great! But, I'm hearing the Hankook RS3's are the best bang for the buck. I also heard that the Falken 452 is being replaced by the 453 AS WE SPEAK. I need a cost effective tire with good dry grip, good wet grip, decent noise and vibration with good wear rating. The Michelin fits the bill but they a Lil expensive. What tires should I consider?
Vag-Com: I got codes to read, you'll. Airbag light on, I wanna find the problem and FIX IT. My laptop computer is weak. I don't wanna get a cable and a disc for VAG. What are my other options? I wanna be able to erase codes and realign my throttle body. Other than VAG-COM how can I read and erase codes??
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I just installed Neuspeed Springs and my car is taking a "clunk" in the front spring, I went back and I replaced the strut bearing mount and the noise still continues.
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I just had a set of VWR springs installed on my 2011 GTI (35,xxx).
I've noticed a very discernible clunk coming from the driver's side front wheel particularly when traveling over a dip in the road (when the spring and suspension is extending). The sound only comes from the one wheel well - the other three sound fine.
I'm bringing it in for an alignment tomorrow (recommend after the spring install). Sounds almost like a bad bushing?
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I have a noise like a broken spring, changed strut insert, top mount, checked for loose brake shield and pads. Removed both sway bar links. [URL] .....
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My wife has a 2004 jetta gls 1.8t we just got some stock 18" bbs gli wheels . she wants to lower it some. Not really wanting to spend the money for coil overs... she will never adjust them and shes not racing it... just want it to look better. How much to lower it...
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I got bilstein PSS9's at waterfest this year and it has been on my car for approx. 7k miles and I think I am experience the problems that people say about the rear spring collapsing. Whenever i drive on a bumpy road, it sounds like something is loose in the rear specifically the drivers rear. I thought it was the heat shield but i had that tightened and the sound is still there. My rear end is not even lowered alot. I turned the coil about 1-2 times. the front is even lower than the rear. I don't know whats up but its frustrating me. I also have 20mm spacers in the rear, would that have to do anything that is causing this sound.
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I had the clock spring recall done last week and now when I turn my wheel almost to full lock for a tight turn, it has a little "chirp" when going past a certain point. I'll definitely bring it back to them to correct it, but I'm guessing no quick fix but I can easily remove my airbag and check from there.
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