Golf V R32 :: Overheating When Driving For A Bit In Warm Weather
Jun 21, 2010
I've got a problem with my R and I don't know what to do. It will overheat after being driven for a bit in warm weather and then if I get stuck in traffic, boom, the temp goes to red and the warning chimes on, stop car and check coolant level. The coolant level is OK, and I can't seem to figure out what is failing. I brought it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and it supposedly didn't throw any faults.
I know it's not just me that sees this happening as I now have two witnesses( I thought I was going crazy at first, I could still be going crazy but the car is definitely exhibiting this issue). Which temp sensor the fans work off of? I was thinking maybe the fans weren't coming on, as soon as I get back under and the highway air is coming, it cools right back down. The problem is sometimes it happens, sometimes it does not. I don't want to continue driving thinking it's just a gauge glitch and end up overheating and ruining my car.
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I have a 92 Ford Taurus that runs warm, can overheat, especially in city driving. When driving at faster speeds with less stopping does not give any trouble. The radiator is full. I tried putting a new thermostat in and it overheat just the same. I took it out and it would run warm but not overheat. I flushed out the tranny. There are not leaks. Seems like water will come out to easy from the radiator cap. Thinking maybe it is blocked up some inside the engine. Can a water pump be kicking in and out at lower RPM's
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My car has 130k miles and has recently developed a worrying noise. It makes an extra whirring sound, like another set of gears spinning, but I don't think I would describe it as a grinding noise. I live in VT and I thought maybe it was my (studless) snow tires making more noise in the warm weather because I noticed it about a month and a half ago when it warmed up. Now that I have my all season tires on, it's still making the noise. The tire guys didn't notice anything wrong when the swap happened (but they only do tires there and I didn't ask them to look for anything).
As far as I can tell it is dependent on wheel speed, not engine speed. It starts at about 20-25mph and gets louder the faster I go. At about 65 the normal road noise is louder than the new noise. If I turn the wheel to the right to any degree the noise goes away. I can't tell if it is completely gone, but it seems like it is. There is no real change if I turn the wheel to the left, though it might get slightly worse. When the noise is going I can feel a vibration in the floorboard that matches the sound. The sound seems like it is coming from in front of me, but I can't really tell if it is left, right, or center. As far as I can tell that is the only new noise, no clicking/griding when I turn the wheel etc.
I'm taking it in for normal 130k maintenance in a week....
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This is for a mk6 GTI with 6500km
There is a "wheel of fortune" clicking noise coming from the front of the car under the following conditions:
- the car is in motion in reverse (e.g. backing up when parking) with steering wheel cranked (near) full left or right
- Happens only on rainy days (I've noticed it a few days back, and maybe 2 weeks prior to that)
The clicking sound isn't there when weather is dry or when I am backing up straight
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Today is the first day I noticed this problem !! driving regular hit traffic I notice my fans come on so I look down at my cluster and my temp gauge is a quarter pass 190 ?? Happen 3 times with in 10 minutes of each other no air condition or heat fans on ??? Get to my destination stay there for 2 hours then drive home but no temp issues ??? 74000 miles I hit today on the car completely stock ?? Thermostat , housing ??
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When I drive around I feel warm air coming from the vents.
Now keep in mind this is my first vw but speaking just from previous vehicles when you drive around and the air is set to cold even if the system off cool air makes it's way through the system from the outside because the fresh air vents are open and the car is in motion.
In my R warm air always makes its way through, but keep in mind if i turn the system on cold air will blow because of the a/c.
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I have noticed that due to warmer weather and more Prius C owners that the MPG's are going up. No many in the 40's mpg anymore. I enjoy people posting and obtaining over the EPA of 50 mpg, the 60 mpg figure appears to be fairly easy
to obtain with the Prius C.
On our Prius the last mpg was 52.3 calculated this is real world driving with my wife driving 75% of the time and she does not drive strictly for MPG's.
I believe we should all take a minute and pat ourselves on the back as all the countless gallons of gas we our saving and will be saving for our friends and neighbors who have no choice but perhaps to drive large cars and pickup trucks...
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Last night while i was driving my car began to overheat. I could smell coolant burning. I pulled over and opened my hood. The coolant inside the coolant pod was boiling. Some coolant lines were steaming as well. I could also hear a gurgly like noise coming the engine. This is a 1.8t gti
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Here in the northwest the weather has been dry and temps in the 40's to over 60 degrees. The mpg's have increased about 5-7 mpg over just a month ago.
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Winters get COLD up here, easily -20F at night.
All my life, I've always went running outside, start the car up, get the heat blasting, run back inside. By the time I walk out to actually leave 10-15 minutes later, it's warm (or at least tolerable) inside the car, and the windows are defrosted.
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2005 Accent Hatchback... As of Friday I noticed my vehicle had been overheating. The coolant levels haven't seemed to change but this is a recent issue so there still may be a slow leak I'm not noticing.
I let the car idle to normal operating temperatures over the course of 17 minutes. While warming up the top radiator hose became warmer, and eventually hot -- the bottom hosed seemed to stay cold and didn't appear to change in temperature.
After reaching normal temps I let the car sit another 3-5 minutes to watch the temp gauge, which did not move. I drove the vehicle stop-and-go 5 laps around my complex(about a mile). There was no noticeable change in temps.
I then turned on the AC which blew ice cold and did another lap. After the first lap the gauge began to rise fairly quick. I immediately turned the AC off and drove the rest of the 2nd lap. The temperatures continued to rise throughout the 2nd lap. I parked with the gauge at about 62% assuming normal temps to be 50% (middle of gauge).
Once parked I checked the hoses. Top hose was hot, bottom hose cold. Coolant tank was at the HIGH mark previous to it being on the LOW mark before the car was started. The oil is at the same level as it was when I changed it a couple months ago, and it looked clean.
Before I started the car I also noted that the radiator was filled to the top. As mentioned OIL looks clean, coolant looks clean. No unusual smoke coming from exhaust or engine.
I've done a lot of reading and some information suggest that the thermostat might be stuck closed. Other post say that if the thermostat was stuck closed the top hose wouldn't get hot. But, these are also post for other vehicles so that might vary here.
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I have an 1997 F150/4.2 V6/220,000 miles/4x2. During hot weather (over 90F) the engine slowly overheats. While driving on the interstate (from Indy to Fort Wayne), the coolant temperature shows normal on the gauge. Slowly the temperature gauge creeps up to close to the red area. I am running the A/C.
When I switch the heater on and the heater fan at max, the temperature gauge drops pretty quickly to a normal range. I switch off the heater and the A/C back on, then it takes 30 minutes for the temperature gauge to start rising again.
When I open the hood when the gauge shows close to the red area, the upper coolant hose has a lot of pressure (can not squeeze it), which would mean that the thermostat is open and the water pump is working. Also the fan is running fast.
The coolant was changed out a few weeks ago and the coolant level is at normal level when the engine is cold. At lower ambient temperatures, there is no overheating. I am puzzled what the problem can be. I am thinking of a restricted coolant flow.
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Rough shifts like my 99 GLS (93k mi.) suffers from. Why this would happen only in warm weather and stop and go driving and not when the outside temp is less than 60 degrees?
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Funny my Audi did it when I got it. Had to replace steering column. My old Treg V6 did it. Lube job. And now the current Treg is doing it. All on the onset of warmer weather.
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This has been going on for 3 or 4 months can someone tell me where the ETC sensor is located on 4 cylinder 2008 Elantra ?
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I have a Santa Fe 2007, when the weather gets warmer it doesn't always start first time, once and a while I have to try two to three times...
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1991 honda crx si - starts fine when weather and engine is cold but lately giving me trouble starting when it is warm [above 80] and engine is cold [has not been driven for several hours].
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So, I have a 97 f150 with a 4.6 that idles low, around 5-600 all the time, and stalls in warm weather only. I just cleaned the IAC to no avail..
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I have a 2002 jetta 1.8t that overheated on me out of no where i have read some post and couldn't really find what i need it never overheated on me before and this was the first time and when ever i open the reservoir where you put in coolant everything spills out its my first time owning a volkswagen, it happens as soon as i start driving like 30 secs and temperature starts to rise.
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I have a 2002 Kia Sportage 4WD. It runs great from fall thru winter and spring. But when summer comes and the ambient temp gets into the 80's it will run good for @ 5 to 10 miles then crap out. Sometimes it seems like it's starving for fuel but others its more of a misfire like electrical. I've replaced the fuel pressure regulator, the intake air temp sensor and even the catalytic converter. Spring is coming soon and I really like this car.
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Our car starts, then dies. It starts fine, then dies. This only happens in warm weather, which we have finally been experiencing in Northern Illinois. It eventually gets to the point where we can drive it, but then might die at a stop sign, or it can go the rest of the day and not have any difficulties. I know later models have timing chains, not belts. Does our car have a timing belt problem or maybe fuel pump? And why only in warm weather?
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