Golf V R32 :: Odd Sound Briefly On Start As Engine Ignites / AC Comes On Delayed
Jun 15, 2011
Second time this has happened in about 3 days... I think I'm about to have a failure.
Symptoms: Odd sound briefly on start as the engine ignites, sounds like friction plates... like a small clutch. Like a woosh with too much frictiony zzzzzz sound. Lasts less than 2 seconds. Have not heard this sound before. A/C comes on a little delayed. Never seemed to take this long to get going before, maybe about 15 seconds.... before about 2-5 secs or so?A slightly burnt smell into the cab upon shutdown.
Again I'm thinking friction plates maybe. A/C compressor clutch?
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So, I've noticed over the past few days my '11 GTI w/ DSG isn't turning over as quick but when it does I feel as though my gas is delayed. For instance, if I push the accelerator down I feel like It does nothing and then suddenly kicks in when the pedal is more than halfway pressed. Also noticed by the same token if I keep it floored I go way into the redline before it shifts. Almost pushing the 7k rpm line. I'm thinking it's either my starter is going bad for the turn over portion but then I feel like it's something to do with spark plugs for the delayed response.
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I thought I'd be free of problems having bought a new Toyota Rav4 in Jan. In June, with less than 3K miles, my husband had a (BIG) fender bender (turns out his meds made him blank out, he was driving at 10-15 mph) (and he is going on 80). Repairs cost over 3K, but I was able to drive it to the dealer. Soon after I got it back a month later, I started hearing a brief grinding noise under the accelerator, at speeds of 20-30 mph. Mostly after I took my foot off the accelerator, once or twice after I took my foot off the brake. This noise sounds like brakes grinding, appears very sporadically and briefly. I took it to the dealer and of course they could find nothing wrong, said everything checks out. They said to bring it back when it's doing the noise. Which it does maybe once a week, for a second or two. sheesh.What to do? I actually want to start all over, I do not want to drive with my ear to the gas pedal. (My husband now only drives in town!)
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So, just got this car and everything was fine until I had to be somewhere...car started up, ran briefly, died...grrrr.First noticed the check engine light, so I did, it was still there, fresh oil, etc. Then noticed the 'Check Gas Cap' light on, so I did, messed with it. Tried to start the car, same problem, light still on. Messed with the gas cap some more, car started up and stayed on! Yay! But now I'm worried! Bought a new gas cap, but that seems to be a pretty lame reason for the car to die. Any other thoughts or should I just not have bought this car?
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We took a trip from L.A. to Sedona AZ two weeks ago during the top of the heat wave. 120 degrees in Needles and 108 in Sedona for three days we were there. The car sat in the sun at the motel all three days except for one short hiking trip. Everything was fine, car ran great, and I didn't baby it, pretty much 75mph all the way there average. On the day we were leaving I went out to get prepared to leave and there was a distinct HUM coming from the rear, most probably the battery area. After a drive to the gas station and on our way out it resided, but I was concerned. Never heard this sound before.
Second thing is (twice I've noticed this), very hot days, I'm getting a lull in acceleration from stop. Whether in Normal or Power mode it's the same. (I regularly drive in Power mode). When hitting the pedal it *pauses* before it accelerates away, like when you start running out of gas in a gas vehicle.
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This might just be car engine in general regardless of make or model, but upon a cold start, my GTI engine whines or buzzes for approximately 1 second before it stops. I had a 2009 Toyota Corolla that also did this, but I had it fixed with a TSB due to the oil not reaching the VVT-I gears or something in time. It's not the same noise in my GTI, but I was wondering about same sound almost every time upon a cold start?
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I've been mostly content with my Prius Plug-in for nearly a year now. But, as a driver very consciously aware of what my car is doing, I have many complaints concerning the internal combustion engine igniting when not needed, or remaining on for far too long. I do my best to work around them, but I feel the need to enumerate my complaints and vent about them. Note I live in southern California where cold weather is extremely rare, and I consciously don't use the heater or AC.
ICE ignites when braking downhill on a full charge. I've heard users say this is necessary because if the battery is full, regenerative braking will overcharge the battery.
ICE ignites if I step on the accelerator ever so slightly too hard. I understand that Toyota claims it needs to use ICE to deliver the extra power to the wheels asked for by the driver, but I just don't believe that. The engine usually simply idles and does not power the wheels at all when this happens, meanwhile the wheels are still running on 100% EV power. I know this because I've become in tune to exactly when the ICE powers the wheels and when it's not. The easiest sign of ICE actually powering wheels is when the accelerator begins to vibrate and I hear the ICE rev up. The second sign is by watching the MPG meter. If you're cruising at something like 50 MPH, and the ICE is idling, you'll see it getting about 80-90 MPG. When it actually supplies useful power, it suddenly drops down to 50 or below.
ICE ignites if the car moves faster than 65 MPH. This seems totally arbitrary to me. For example, it does not matter if you're accelerating steep downhill in neutral, or on a level highway just very slowly accelerating past 65. You can watch the power meter the whole time, and even if it doesn't get anywhere near the (power) section to the far right, the ICE still ignites as soon as you hit 66. In those situations, why does it even think it needs any extra power? And to top it all off, all it really does is idle for at least a minute anyway.
The ICE runs only momentarily, but here's the kicker: If you immediately let go of the accelerator, decelerate to below 65 MPH, or even come to a full stop at a red light, the ICE still continues to run for at least a minute or two. Worse still, it idles for about a minute regardless of speed or power, then suddenly decides that it should power the wheels for a few seconds even if no variables have changed, and it does this for about 30 seconds more before finally deciding to suddenly pop back into pure EV mode. How you work around all of this? Stop at a red light, shut off the car, and restart it. As it powers on, it stays in EV mode, proving to you that it never needed to be sitting there idling in the first place.
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So CEL had been on since I got it, but last week, the CEL would flash briefly for about 10secs and go away.
I know I shouldn't be driving it when it flashes but I gotta work.... I've noticed some shuddering when driving so I checked it for some codes and came back with the following:
16684 Random misfire detected
16689 Cylinder 5 misfire
16687 Cylinder 3 misfire
17524 Bank 1 sensor 1 circuit open
16524 Oxygen sensor circuit bank 1 sensor 2
17606 02 Sensor Heater circuit Bank1 Sensor 2- Electrical malfunction
The car would run perfectly smooth most times but every now and then I can feel the shudder in my seat, kind of worrying.. (I know I shouldn't be driving it when it flashes but I gotta work...). Noticed its more of a problem when cold and wet, so could it actually be coils/sparkplugs? Super poor right now cuz of school but don't want a dead car, which approach to take and what part to fix first?
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I recently started to notice what sounds like a vacuum cleaner coming from the engine at start up, usually in the morning. The sound continues for about a minute or less then goes away. Haven't noticed it after repeated starts during the course of the day. Car runs fine, no CEL's.
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To get straight to the point: I have a 2013 GTI that has recently started making a screeching noise on cold starts and during engine acceleration (not necessarily heavy load, but actual engine speed acceleration).
I recorded a video of it this morning and it is very easy to discern the sound. The car is APR stage 1 tuned and has a south bend clutch but I don't think either of those are related to the sound. The water pump has been replaced from the service bulletin, the auxiliary belt tensioner has been replaced because it started to make a noise (this noise is completely different). Otherwise the car has never given me an issue, it has been maintained exactly per the OEM repair schedule other then oil changes every 5k miles vs. 10k. I use mobil 1 0W-40 oil.
The video link: [URL] ....
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After about a min once bluetooth connects it fails. In setup under bluetooth it says it's off and pushing it does nothing. My phone shows bluetooth on and still paired. If I was talking to someone call does not get dropped but I have to pick up my phone and turn off bluetooth so I can hear them on phone speaker.
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Drove 28mi out to dinner and when leaving after, she wouldn't start. Took it to work in the morning, and it ran fine prior to that. It was 15degrees outside, added heat to the gastank thinking the fuel line was frozen. Tryed to fire on, but it would only idle briefly surging while doing so and die, like not enough gas. It did start after I held the key down during this surging process grinding the starter also, should have driven home, but I shut it off like a idiot, as a result, had to tow home. Noticed TCS OFF light was lite up while it was running, then I shut it off, TCS OFF LIGHT went away when I turned key back on to attempt a 2nd restart. After i did that, it wouldn't fire on again. Towed to my house, I do not hear the fuel pump trying to kick on when i turn on the key. Fuel system is dry. Cranked over next day and definitely no gas in the lines. Bled the fuel system, no fuel shot out. Have checked the fuse box and the one under the hood too. Replaced the fuel pump relay but still no go just (this blows)...
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So...I got my RCF 2 weeks ago and since then I have experienced normal crank and start or just little delay crank and start, just now after stopping by somewehere for about 30mins got back to the car and experienced almost 5 seconds crank and then started...I used to experience the same with my RC350 but it wasnt a crazy long crank, what could be the cause to this issue? I have also seen some videos online of some RCF starting up (usually exhaust videos) and I can hear the same little delay crank on some of them.
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2012 Escape XLS will occasionally start after a moment of delay. Experiencing silence after turning key to start then seconds later it will start. Other times, it will not start so will turn it off and try again and it will start properly. Only other similar complaint read so far is for a 2001 Escape. Trying to find some leads on what could be the culprit. Problem starting to be a habit.
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I have a 2013 Sonata Limited with an odd problem. Once every 10 starts or so, I depress the start button and the car starts up but only after a few seconds' delay. I don't hear anything during those few seconds, no cranking, clicking, or other noises. Normally, the engine turns over immediately, but every now and then, there's that odd delay.
When I get into the car, the photo of the car and the word "Sonata" do show up on the center of the dashboard, so the car seems to be detecting the key OK (and I already changed the batteries in the smart keys). This delay in turning over seems not to be related to the coldness of the car (it has happened both when the car hasn't been used for a few days and when the car was used maybe 15 minutes ago). I should add that this does NOT seem to be the brake sensor issue that I had with the 2011 Sonata SE that I leased previously, as the ESC light isn't coming on.
The car is on its original battery, so I'm wondering if this indicates that the battery is weakening. Also, the car has been in a garage where there is construction work occurring with a fair amount of dust.
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I got the car last fall so I don't know too much of the history. I will list the symptoms the best I can.-goes through about a quart of oil every 300 miles, looks to mostly come out the exhaust-seems to really blow smoke when the vtec activates-as the weather has gotten colder, it has been idling erratically until it warms up.-check engine light went on today-when accelerating from stop engine stutters briefly (this started when light came on)-warm idle speed now seems to be over 1000 rpm....
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2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx. This just started a little while ago, before I replaced front brake pads. after I start the engine whether cold or hot, the brakes will pulse briefly when I step on them to get the car in gear. It feels like the ABS, but it only does after a fresh start, and not when braking. The car stops fine. The brake pedal is a little spongy, probably because I didn't bleed them, but the pulse was already happening so I don't think they are connected. there are no warning lights on at all. Also, it doesn't do it 100% of the time, maybe 80 to 85%.
In order to bleed I guess I need a scan tool, but the bleeding procedure is a bi-directional function which is not supported by most of the gizmos available. Know of one that might work without spends thousands?
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Lately my transmission has delayed shifting into first when I shift my car into drive on cold starts. It delays for usually about 2-3 seconds then kicks hard into first. The rest of the shifts are smooth and on time. I've tried replacing my transmission fluid, but that doesn't seem to fix it. Is there an actual problem with my transmission? I had the TCM replaced when it would get stuck and not shift. I have a 2009 GLS with around 53k on it.
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Not all the time, but I've noticed it after the truck has been driven - shut off - then started again within a few min period. When truck is cold or has been sitting for an extended it starts no problem. By "delayed" I mean once I try to start the truck it takes a sec or two longer than normal before it cranks. Then when it does start it will idle very low for a sec or two then pick up and act normal.
So far I've done this to remedy it:
- new fuel filter
- new air filter
- cleaned MAF sensor
- cleaned throttle body
- seafoam thru vac hose
Only thing else I suspect is weak fuel pump but looks like it was act up all the time not just when the truck is started back to back. Truck has good power when running, I did a couple short blasts up to 80mph and everything was fine.
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I went to a local oil change place on Tuesday morning for an oil change. Had them change the air filter (engine and cabin) at the same time. The odometer is at about 165k on my 2006 base model Prius. When the job was completed and I pushed the power button, Christmas tree. Giant red triangle of death, check engine, and the display picture with the "!" in the middle. Can't put it into gear. Engine runs briefly and cuts out. Maybe they tripped a wire when they changed the filter? Nope, all was good there. Silly little tech put it on his code reading machine to no avail.
I called the local Toyota dealership that I hate and don't use and they gave the oil change guy instructions to jump it. No dice. So I leave it in the bay and call a tow truck. Towing guy figures out how to get it into neutral and puts it on his truck to take to local hated dealership (mistake). Long day of fighting with oil change place, followed by super star service from larger dealership in Austin (60 miles away) with the service rep I always use. He diagnosed the likely problem over the phone. I didn't even let local hated dealership do the diagnostics. I put that little Prius baby on a flatbed and took her to Austin.
Well, the codes pulled were P0A0F (engine failed to start) and P3190 (poor engine power). Well, that is the magic combination along with the experience of my service rep and tech to confirm that too much oil was added. It's was about a half of a quart. Crazy, right? Well, they cleaned the throttle body, interior of intake manifold of oil residue and all is well again. The big battery was completely dead so the dealership charged it up for me.
Next morning I pick it up and big battery is charged about halfway. Not sure if they completely charged it the night before. However, by the time I got to work (maybe 5 miles), battery indicator was full (green). I had an oddity when I had a longer stop light idle later that afternoon where the battery went from 4 blue bars down to purple, but drove the 60 miles back home and today the charge seems to be fine (4-5 blue bars). I have a sneaking suspicion that there may be more issues, but for now all is well. I'm going to get the 12V battery changed soon because we're still riding on the original.
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Our Honda Odyssey will have an occasional delayed start where you turn the key but no sound occurs. All the lights come on like normal and the automatic doors can all close and open without any issues. Originally we didn't know that we could eventually get the car to start by turning and holding the key in the start position. It happens every couple days to couple weeks and without holding the key in the on position it will be anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 days before the car will start normally again. We've spent about $1,000 at the Honda dealer to have the battery, battery cables, starter, and starter relay replaced but we're still having the problem.
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