Golf V R32 :: O2 Sensor Behind The Left Cat Coming Loose And Causing Rattle
Jul 19, 2013
Ive been having problems with my o2 sensor behind the left cat coming loose and causing a horrible rattle. Ive tightened the hell out of it a few times and it lasted around 4k miles each. recently i tightened it again and it comes loose within like 20 miles. I was gonna put lock tight on it but with the wiring going into the sensor i cant back it all the way out. I just said screw it and put some JB weld metal putty on it to hold and it lasted like 2 days and now its rattling again. I guess next step is find out how to take apart the sensor so i can un thread and lock tight it....electrical stuff scares me though.
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My wife drove her new (2000 miles) Prius 4 home (300 miles) with a rattle from the left rear. Dealers were totally unresponsive - either put me on voice mail or said I had to wait a week for an appointment. The third dealer I called said I could bring it in and they might take a look at it. Five days later I have a new shock and a bill for the rental car. Not what I expected from Toyota! I noted that one other person on Priuschat had a problem with a loose rear shock.
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Had a subwoofer installed, did the trunk rattle on the outside of the car?
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Just changed out the struts on my ACV36R Camry Altise. Fitted up some nice Monroe GT struts and Kings Springs (front and rear) as well as new Nolathane bushes throughout.
Now, everything is tight, checked over every nut and bolt with a torque wrench to the correct specs but I have a loose rattle sound coming from the front right strut. What it could be before I tear the whole lot out again? I've been around it with a rubber mallet trying to isolate the rattle but I can't replicate it by hitting any of the components that I've replaced.
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I replaced my front brakes today and not sure if I got the rattle clip back on right as it seems loose. After driving for a little bit, it seems the clip might be wiggling it self loose.
In addition to this, my brakes sounds terrible. Lots of squeals.
I have replaced many brakes and never ran into this issue before. I cleaned everything up and greased the contact points with brake grease. I then did the bed in process that Hawk recommends for their pads.
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Everytime I run my revs past 4 and shift, I can hear a steel rattle right at the shift. It's stock exhaust btw, no mods...
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So somehow my Left Rear Roof Molding came loose while I was driving and is missing now. ECS Tuning has one but I don't want to spend 70 bucks.
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I have a sound that sounds like something is loose in the left front suspension area. A few weeks ago I put on VWR springs and 034 strut mounts. Then I got a tire rotation and alignment with in the same day. On Friday night it started making noise. While driving at any speed and the slightest bump I will hear the noise. There is no vibration in the steering wheel and nothing seems off about how the car handles. When I parked the car I tried pushing down on the front end and I didn't hear any thing abnormal. I jacked up the car today and I looked around and felt around on most of the suspension to see if anything was loose or out of place. I didn't notice any thing.
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I owe a GTI autobahn 2015! I have problems with the front suspension (left side) sounds like is all loose, took the car to the dealer all they did is tight a bolt that is part of it! Problem still remain!!
When going over speed bumps and pot holes the front suspensions hit very hard like the shocks are not doing their job property!! This is causing the body of the car to start coming loose! I can hear some noises like an old car!!
Is normal or they need to be replaced,, i always drive in sport mode!!
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So I was driving the other day and out of no where my cars steering started feeling really loose and the car darts the the left if your not holding the wheel towards the right. It barely turns and the whole front rocks back and forth when turning, the car is Not driveable it feels like the steering wheel barely does anything and it's very sloppy , I was thinking it could be the rack and pinion but idk everything looks intact underneath...
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The belly pan on my AUDI A4 is loose and causing a clattering, rattling noise. I looked under the car and it looks like all of the screws are missing..... Can I fix this myself?
I saw that a lot of places online sell the screws but pricing was a bit confusing and I wanted to make sure it's something I can fix myself.
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Geo Metro loose head bolts... I have a 96 Metro, and for some reason the head bolts loosen by themselves, leading to over heating and planing head ... well you know.I had a farm for 20 years and took care of all equipment myself, have rebuilt numerous motors, but this geo is the first I have seen where the bolts loosen. This is the third time. I know they are tightened right , because I have the tools and experience, but not with this. Other than jb weld in the bolt holes.
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I had been driving around for a few days and the car had been feeling a bit sluggish on initial acceleration and there was also a very slight backfire.
Just seemed to have lost some crispness. No fault codes thrown with VAGCOM.
Found one of the Camshaft Hall Sensors loose. I have had this before with the exhaust cam sensor but this time it was the inlet one. The bolt just comes a bit loose and the sensor can swivel around very slightly if you move it with your hand.
It seems to be enough to upset the the performance but not enough to throw any codes - after all it is still working perfectly sending a signal as far as VAGCOM is concerned.
Just need to nip it up again with an M5 Allen key and you are golden. One with a ball end makes it easier to get to. Just regained about 20 HP
Pic for information ....
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So I went to the car wash this morning and when I pulled into the stall I heard a somewhat loud rattle coming from my front drivers side wheel. It sounded like there were a couple stones in the cap that covers the lug nuts. That wasn't the case. It did it in reverse also. Before I take it to the dealer Monday morning. Its a 2011 F-350 6.7 Lariat 4x4 w. 32,000 miles. I also have have a little whine coming from the rear when I take off from a standstill.
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I have a 2000 f150 xlt 4x4 with a 6" suspension lift. Recently Ive had some front end noise, so after swapping out a lower ball joint and the sway bar links, i still have the pop. It only happens when at a stop or slowly moving and i turn to the right and accelerate. It sounds like its coming from the front drivers side. I have wiggled everything in the front end and everything is very tight. The only loose things i can find are:
1) Bottoms of shocks can be wiggled back and forth, both sides do this.
2) driveshaft leading to the front end has a lot of play, but I don't believe that's relevant since its not used when I am in 2wd.
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I noticed today that the bass from the Infinity stereo in my Santa Fe was making my passenger door rattle pretty bad. I haven't noticed this before (maybe it was from the cold weather?)
Has taking off inner door panels fixed the rattle? I read a few threads that made it sound like people just took them to the dealer.
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Am getting an EPC light + limp mode + code for accelerator position sensor (implausible signal). I have swapped out the pedal assembly, so it isn't the sensors themselves, and we've checked the wiring to the pedal assembly... I can feel in-car, and I can see via VAG-COM that one of the two sensors is basically toggling between a sensible % reading of pedal position at one moment, and then zero % the next, and of course every time the sensor reads zero, the ECU notes the error and cuts power... but this only happens when the steering wheel is straight or when turning to the right; I can drive around in a leftward circle all day and night without this occurring.
Why? What is there in the steering (either in the column or at the wheels, or basically any place in between) which, if malfunctioning, could affect the accelerator position sensors in one way or another (i.e. either through the normal operation of a safety system, or through a short or other electrical gremlin)?
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So I was changing my spark plugs and 3 of 4 went smooth. but one of them was very tough to get out. after a little while it came out, but.... porcelain was broken up. looked down the hole and saw some pieces. Vacuumed it up with a small hose. saw the pieces come into the vacuum, but i don't think i got them all.
Started the engine and made a terrible rattle sound. turned it off and researched a bit. one hit was on here from a few years back, saying the car ran rough for a sec and then cleared up. Hoping it was kicked out the exhaust. I started it up let it run and it cleared up and idled smooth.
Drove it today and seems fine. Slight click noise when accelerating but not sure if that was there before or I am just being paranoid now. Called some places and they all said same...could have cleared through exhaust, stuck in catalytic converter, damaged the interior walls etc etc.
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I read at Edmunds that some customers were having problems with the sub woofer causing a rattle whenever they were playing a song with heavy bass. They took it too their dealership and the dealer just told the customer to turn down the base.
That clearly is NOT a fix. It's more of a work around. I was having the same problem with my Azera. As I like my music with heavy base and quite loud, this was becoming quite annoying.
I decided to investigate the problem and discover that the door to the baby seat anchor on the driver side was sitting on the metal underneath the headboard. I got some weather stripping and cut out a couple of 1 inch strips. I then stuffed them under the plastic cooler which surrounds the baby seat achor. My sound system is now clean at any volume level.
If your having a similar problem, open the doors to your baby seat anchors and gently pull up on them. This will pull the head board off the metal underneath. If the rattle goes away, you'll know where to place your weather stripping.
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I had a sensor error which caused my battery to drain. The computer thinks my door is unlocked when it is locked, leaving the door open image on the dashboard. This caused my battery to drain totally. What the damage would be for a new battery and fixing the door sensor ?
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I have 1999 Honda Civic with an automatic transmission and I cannot remove the key. I have shifted it in and out out of Park and turned the steering wheel without any success. I suspect the problem is related to a sensor to determine the shifter is in Park. How can I verify this or rule it out. If it is a sensor what is a reasonable cost to have it repaired.
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