[URL] .... It seems to come and go, doesn't really go with temp but you can hear it when your driving, It does go now and again with speed. the noise also gets quicker with revs.
View 4 RepliesMy 2006 Audi TT 3.2 is making a noise that sounds like a chicken. It rises with revs too.
View 7 RepliesShifting especially at high revs. The noise also seems to happen when shifting to gears 2,3 and 4; not so much 5 & 6. What is the cause?
View 6 RepliesI am experiencing a weird noise coming from my 1.8T AWP engine. Its kind of a buzzing, and it gets louder with higher revs. Unfortunately its hard to hear while driving as I have an exhaust on it, but in a confined space you can hear it clearly.
View 4 RepliesI have a MT '12 Golf 2.5L with around 8k miles. I always park with the transmission in neutral. When I first start it up in the morning, the engine revs high, around 1500RPM, so I can clearly hear the engine inside the car. I start it, it revs up and holds, and when I release the clutch I hear what sounds like a rev, but the tach doesn't move.
I believe the GTI doesn't need the clutch depressed for the entire turn over, but the Golf does, so I have to hold it until the engine is running. It may not be a big deal, but I'm just wondering why releasing the clutch in neutral would make a noise. I don't hear it any other time than at start up.
i have noticed that my front tires are wearing quicker on the inside. that is to say they don't seem to be wearing evenly. have almost no tread left on the insides of front tires and these tires only have about 13000 mi on them. is this and aligment problem? dealer says no.
View 4 RepliesShes a rocket at low speeds but at speeds above 50-60 acceleration is slow. How can you boost it? Bigger turbo? Better injectors? Rpms aren't maxed, it just seems sluggish...
View 14 RepliesMy parents have a 2006 RX330, and I decided to see how their traction control works, so I tried doing a quicker acceleration on a sharp turn to see how it would react.
I found that the vehicle started to slightly tilt and beeped, making it seem like the traction control wasn't activating at all (unless its only function is to beep).
Is this normal?
On the way home this evening the car just dropped revs and stalled. I pulled to the side of the road and tried to restart the car. The car started, idle for a second, then bogged and stalled again. I am leaning towards my MAF and the same thing occurs every time I try to start it. Only mods are flapper and APR 93oct tune.
I do have a drop in and have a feeling I screwed my MAF w/ the oiled filter.
I have a 2003 Jetta Gli with a VR6 manual transmission 6 speed. So the other night I am pulling into this store parking lot and all of a sudden my car is just rolling its still in gear and running but when i push on the gas it just revs the motor i thought i was in neutral for a second but I wasn't so I jump out and push it into a parking spot.
Car is running but when i put it into gear and let off the clutch it just revs. so i have i towed to my house it was late so i decided to look in the morning.
So I go out the next day its still the same only now when i let off the clutch it just dies. I'm not an auto mechanic expert by any means any car work i have done is just self taught as needed diving in and figuring it out myself.
I did do the Cv axle on the passenger side last year i bought the one from O' Reilly auto parts. I know its the cheap one and probably a no no. Could this be my cv axle? Did my clutch go out? It moves through all the gears except reverse when the clutch is depressed. Could it be my transmission?
My mechanic and friend noticed my axle was starting to fail about a few weeks ago and Ive just been waiting to get it taken care of when I have time. Last night my battery died and I got a jump start. After the jump I get in and drive down the street a little ways and notice the ESP light came on. She was also running a little rough at idle and I started getting nervous. So instead of getting my Micky Dees I turned around and went home. Of coarse this happens at 3am the night before I have to open up at work at 11.. This mourning I get in the car and warm her up to see how shes acting. I decided to still drive her because I had no other option. The MIL light popped on now too and I think its related to my axle failing. So im wondering I guess how much longer I have til this thing completely goes and what would happen if it went while I was driving? Ive never had to replace an axle before or and an issue with one so this is a subject I know very little about. Also is it worth it to get RAXLES for stock?
So after my battery died like I said I got a jump start from my buddy and after I jumped it the car seems to rev at idle now. Freaked me out! Would all the sudden start revving to 2k rpm and then stop. When I drove it to work almost every time I stopped it would rev a little bit but when I gas it it would stop. After doing research there are a few conclusions I have reached. First I read it could be a throttle body sticking? Then I read the jump start could have fried my ecu or it could be a simple as a loose wire to the motor from a bypass valve?
Im not sure if the jump start did anything bad. Its possible its a coincidence still but my car was fine before the jump. Also on a side note my ecu was already flashed when I purchased the car. The flash is from EIP I believe because there is a eip sticker on the battery case. Personally I think the MIL light is related to the axle but the weird idling is what scares me.
So for the last few days, every now and then when I turn on the car it just revs/accelerates on its own. The rpms will be at about 2k and stay that way whether I'm in neutral or in gear. Then when I go to turn the car off and back on it again it doesn't start. It'll sound like it wants to turn but it doesn't until I let it rest for a few minutes and then it's back to normal.
View 7 RepliesMy car now vibrates when slowing down and it only happens between 2-2.5k rpms! Also now the car has been idling higher at a standstill. The car will be fine then it will rev up to 1k.
View 6 RepliesGot a new clutch, flywheel, and slave done about a month and a half ago at the dealer (got bent over with the price too, but that is beside the point). Ever since, the rpm's have been acting really weird. When the car is in neutral, it will rev by itself from 800-1800. The problem seems to get worse under warm conditions.
I haven't had a chance until today to take it back to the dealer, they scanned it and a couple of codes came up. I will get the exact codes on monday, but they said bring it back then so they can take a closer look at it. What this could be? Throttle body position sensor? Its really pissing me off, and they better fix it. Just want to be well prepared for a fight come monday...
Purchased my '12 R a week ago. It's got 40k on it. I noticed that sometimes after disengaging from first gear, the revs climb and hang around 1500 for around a couple of seconds.
View 7 RepliesFor a while my car has been revving while I am at a stop. After stopping the engine revs up to around 2000 rpm, then drops and feels like it is stalling. I brought it to a mechanic an he cleaned the throttle body, but that did nothing. I have been reading around and it sounds like it may be a vacuum leak. Does this sound right? If so what is the best way to find the leak?
View 7 RepliesThe spring (or let's call it a few warmer days) has finally came to Ireland and my sensitive ear started to notice rather quiet clicking noise from the engine. The noise gets faster (you'd get more clicks pers second) when the engine revs up.
It is not very obvious, the two mechanics I asked told me that they can't hear anything and instructed me to enjoy the sun - but I definitely can notice when the ICE starts or shuts down just by presence of this clicking noise.
What's strange, when it has been raining for some time I don't hear it anymore, the engine runs very smooth and quiet. It will keep quiet in the roofed parking garage too - so it is not the rain just masking the sound.
It does not matter if the ICE is hot or cold too. I removed the serpentine belt and have run the engines for a moment without water pomp - but the sound is still there... The oil and filter has been recently changed too.
Apart from that the car runs fine. I get slightly below the typical fuel economy (5.9l/100km = 40mpg(us)) but I think it is still OK: I run only short distances (5-10 miles tops) and decided to ignore the pulse'n'glide technique as it kept my focus off the road.
My car just hit 111k miles last week! I have the 2006 sonata V6 LX, new spark plugs n new cats at 65k. So today I got to school for my final and realized the car was making a weird noise.
The noise is barely there on low revs, but when I rev a tiny bit it becomes very noticeable, and gets rattles faster to a certain point, but i think after like 2.5-3k revs kinda goes away(kinda because I don't know if its because i cannot hear it over the engine noise) and then when i let off it rattles on the rev down and then gets silent for a split sec and then back the low rev rattle.
What i understand it could be belts, pully's, the timing belt tensioner?
I have the 2006 v6, and so i think the seal for the front of the engine has issues for the year, so there is an maybe very slow oil seeping thru, it had stained the front left of the engine above the alternator, but has been like this since 50k miles when i first noticed it and no problems
And also i have 2 12" 1000w rms subs in the trunk, so could it be the alternator that can make that kind of noise?
About 2-3 months ago I noticed that whenever I would push the clutch in and let the revs drop, they would drop below the 800 rpm mark and the car would automatically rev them back up to prevent from stalling. This usually happens when I am slowing to come to a stop, like coming down an off-ramp or to a stop light. Then one night after a 45 minute steady speed highway drive, I pushed the clutch in, shifted to neutral and let the clutch out and coasted to a stop. As the revs dropped, the engine stalled completely and the red alternator warning light came on. While still rolling on the highway, I pushed and held the start/stop button and it immediately started back up.
Over the last 6 weeks, this has become more frequently. It is now at a point where the revs will pretty much always drop below 800 rpm when I slow down and the car usually revs them back. However, I have had six more stall episodes like the one above and it is starting to scare me about driving. I find myself revving the engine when I coast in neutral to slow down to prevent this from happening. This happens either with the clutch depressed and gear engaged and slowing or clutch out and in neutral gear.
The car has never had issues. I am the sole owner. Just coming up on 30,000 miles. I currently have UM tune stage 2, EVOMS intake, APR HPFP, 42DD downpipe with stock cat-back exhaust, HPA short shifter with metal cable bushings, Stoptech Street rotors and pads, VWR springs and RSR clutch, which was installed at about 22,000 miles one year ago. Have serviced it religiously, oil changes every 5,000 miles, did the water pump recall and had no issues thus far.
I moved from high-elevation Utah to New Hampshire last summer. The tune and calibration were all done in Utah prior to the move. These symptoms/issues beginning and getting worse coincided with the cold winter and lots of snow were are having. Could that and the tune having been calibrated at another elevation have anything to do with this?
I posted awhile back about my R not wanting to start. It will start, just not turn over right away, but it will start the first time. However, it feels like it's going to stall out because the revs don't climb very high at all (1k at best) when it usually goes just over 1k to start, then drops down to 5-600rpms.
Yesterday, after it sat in the hot sun for nearly 3 hours, it cranked but didn't start right away. It had started right up when I left my house to go to the gym, and I drove it 5 miles to the gym.
Then again, this morning, after it had been sitting outside all night, I went to start it and it just didn't sound right when it started, like maybe fuel wasn't getting to the engine.
The car has 31,500 miles on it, has had all recalls done, and the battery checked out last month. The battery was fine, so it's not the problem. I have been doing some research on this issue, and have come up with the following things to have the dealer check:
-fuel pump
-fuel pump relay
-coil packs
-crank position sensor
-fuel pump fuse
-fuel filter
-injectors
-alternator
-starter motor
-crank angle sensor
-cam sensor
-check all grounds
-check fuses
And to top it off, I just drove it down the road and the sunroof randomly opened on its own. I have never had that happen before! Do you think the two are related at all? I'm just wanting to make sure what to tell the dealer when I drop it off later this afternoon. I ran a vag-com scan last night and there were no electrical or engine fault codes found, so I don't know what is up with it.
I just picked up my new R (Rising Blue 2 Door w/ S-Roof & Nav) yesterday and love it, except for one thing. When accelerating and changing up through the gears, the revs seem very slow to drop after lifting off the gas and dipping the clutch to select the next gear. It is like there is a delay between me lifting off and the instruction getting to the engine.
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