Golf V R32 :: No Idle / RPMs Surging And Hesitation When Taking Off
Aug 24, 2016
Got a problem with my R. 134k miles. About 4 months ago I had similar problems and was told it was a bad MAF. Of course wasn't covered by my warranty, so I decided to just give it a good cleaning and car ran fine up till now. Just started doing the same thing today. Doesn't want to idle, taking off is really hesitant then it just goes. Trans seems like it is struggling to find the correct gear sometimes when coming to a stop or taking off, sometimes jerks hard, maybe throttle position sensor, or idle control? Once you are moving it drives fine, only very low speeds and idling are the problem. Trying to avoid going to the dealership. What this could be? MAF need cleaned again or just replaced?
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So this morning when I started my car to warm up everything was fine. I went inside to make some coffee and I heard my idle change slightly and didn't think to much about it but when I got in I could feel my car shaking a little bit then when I pulled off my road there was a little hesitation in first gear taking off and when I would shift I would get a little rev hang between gears. So I've realized when idling its slightly fluctuating between 6-7 hundred rpm. I have no loss of power and it has not hesitated since the first take off. I'm thinking its something to deal with air. I checked my airbox and realized the bolt closest to the battery wasn't threaded so I fixed that and tried looking for any leaks but haven't found anything.
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I have a 85 bronco 2, but i have no luck with responses in Bronco 2 forum, so here goes. It is the 2.8 carb, manual trans with 109K miles. Idles really well some hesitation when taking off but really bad miss and not power under acceleration. KOEO codes are 31 and 84 CM code 18. I have plugged the vacuum line to the EGR and have noticed a dramatic difference. I have tried to rev the engine and check the vac line to the EGR but I do not feel any vacuum, and at idle the vac line on or off doesn't change things. Any recommendations to whether it is the Sensor or the valve itself and what gives with the 18 code. I am hoping to have timing checked by the weekend.
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My 2001 BMW 325Ci has an occasional "surging" idle problem. When coming to a stop or at idle, the engine will rev between 500 and 1000 rpm's. Sometimes it will correct the problem and idle normally, or keeps surging until it eventually stalls. When restarted it works fine. Tried fuel injector treatment, fuel stabilizer treatment, and replaced thermostat. Still surges about 50% of the time. Had it to a dealer, and computer says its running fine.
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2004 Santa Fe .... 2.7 6 Cyl 4WD 150k miles
Recently I started experiencing RPMs surging upon startup and driving before my engine warms up. The problem has gotten worse to where I push on the accelerator the RPMs jump to 2700 and the transmission feels like it disengages. My initial thought was the tranny was going bad and slipping. I checked the fluid level in the T and found it was maybe a half Qt. low. I topped it off, but this had no impact on the problem. On a side note, I am able to use the manual shifting feature on the "His and Hers" Shifter and drive the vehicle without any issue. Transmission works fine in manual. The surging RPMs which only occur in Automatic mode, triggered the CEL and I got a code of P0123 which is high side voltage on the Throttle Position Sensor. I replaced the gray TPS with a new black one.
Upon startup the RPMS jumped to 3000 just sitting in Park. I disassembled and reinstalled figuring I had something bound in the throttle. After reassembly the idle went up to 2200, still no good! I reinstalled the original gray TPS and the RPMs, upon starting, RPMs were 1500 with the old sensor...still too high. I did reset the ECU twice during the process of putting in the new sensor and reinstalling the old sensor. Right now I found that when I disconnect the TPS electrical connector, the engine runs normal. It starts right up with the TPS totally disconnected and idles at 750 RPMs! It will not shift to 2nd gear though, when I try to drive it in Automatic Mode. I can however drive in Manual Mode and drive normal and shift right through the gears. Who needs automatic mode right?!!!
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Golf VI 2.5 automatic... I seemed to notice a dead spot in the throttle when taking off from a light. You press the gas, nothing seems to happen. To start from a stop sign, you have to really give the car some juice to get going, which ends up being too much throttle and sucks gas. In other words, very difficult to take off at a moderate pace from a stop. Seems like all or nothing.
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My '03 7.3 is "surging" on idle. When warmed up, and idling, the RPMs will drop by 300 or 400 for a few seconds and then will correct and shoot back up. It cycles like this (every 5 seconds-ish) continually . I just put in a new IDM and checked the UVCH - is there a separate idle control mechanism that I need to have a look at? (2003, 7.3, 214K, stock).
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My girlfriend has a 2008 with around 120k miles on it. It's been pretty flawless but yesterday the RPMs started surging while idle and made kind of a high pitch humming noise when accelerating.
Today on her way to work she said the radio was going in and out, the battery light lit up and then the rest of the dash lights came on, and the speedometer stopped working.
What could be the problem? Could it just be the battery?
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Ok so a little back story, I have CEL codes 17748 & 17755 which basically tell me that I have a stretched timing chain. That being said, others say they have the same codes and their car runs like a champ and makes full power. Not sure the truth to that but whatever. Regardless, I don't know how a stretched chain would cause a sudden surge of power at certain rpm, but I do not know the ins and outs of this engine and ECU.
So, for some reason my car feels fine when driving around at low rpms, but when I take it above 3000 rpm or so with mild throttle, it feels a little weak. Now if I am giving it moderate throttle, once I hit the 3000 rpm range, all of the sudden I can hear my intake get louder and there is a sudden surge of power. Furthermore, it feels to me like as the rpms get higher, like over 4500-5000 range, the car feels pretty weak. I am not sure how the car should feel though because this problem has been like this since I bought it. I am pretty sure it's not making full power though.
I can see how stretched chains could lead to being out of timing which could mean low power up top, even though I don't know why the variable cam gears couldn't make up for this.. but what's up with this power surge thing?
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I have recently purchased a 2011 F150 Ext cab with 3.5L ecoboost with 69k miles. I have no experience with these engines prior to now. I've always wanted a full size truck and after driving my 98 S10 for 17 years, I decided it was time for a new truck. I hope I made the right choice in going for the 3.5 instead of 5.0.
On to my question. I've noticed that the truck hesitates from a dead stop or anytime the RPM's are under 1k. It feels like its missing or running lean/rich during the spin up of RPM's. When I drive it hard, it does seem to subside for a little, and I've heard people say that they run better when run hard. I can attest to that, but is this hesitation normal for an almost 70k mile engine? I am getting 15ish MPG on almost all city driving since I have bought it, but I do expect that to change (job hunting and current commute is less than 2 miles each way).
The only time I get to open it up is when I go run errands out of the immediate local area or visiting friends and family. On one of those trips, before I noticed the hesitation, I attempted to accelerate from 60 to pass on the expressway and it bucked and resisted like a horse. It finally took off up to 80 and completed that journey with no issue but the check engine light came on for a bit. The check engine light went off when I shut it down and hasn't come back on since.
New ride: 2011 3.5L Ecoboost....
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I bought my MKIV R 2 months ago. Car has 114k, mostly stock besides UM Tune and flapper. First things I did was new oem plugs, coils, crankshaft sensor and drop in k&n filter. PO did fuel filter at 100k. Few weeks ago I noticed when stepping on it in 2nd and 3rd gear car will hesitate for a split second at like 5500 rpms and than keep on pulling. I dont really beat on the car at all so I didnt pay attention to that. Today I tried to see if it still does it and it did, 3rd gear, 2 tries, both at 5500 rpms. I scanned the car and no fault codes. Is it normal for the car to have this sort of "hiccup"? Not sure where to start looking to be honest.
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So,I have a mk4 GTI vr6 . I've got an idle that moves about 25 rmps up and down. As well as the throttle hesitation between 2.000 and 3500 rpms only at mid throttle. Has a kinda new maf. That I cleaned. clean THrottle body kinda new coil pack and wires , new plugs. Tried a lot it all worked but it's still there.
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So last night i was having some fun doing a wot pull from 2-5th and bam misfire p0301 code for cylinder 1. During the pulls i felt and noticed slight hesitation/stuttering around 5500-6100 rpms. When i let off it felt like cylinder1 was totally dead. Had a flashing cel + epc light come on, so i pull over turn the car off and now it won start. When you go to start it, it just continues to turn over, doesn't even sound like it's attempting to fire up. Feels like it doesn't have compression. There wasn't any loud out of the ordinary noise when this happened, other than the obvious misfire.
I had changed the coilpacks to the r8 red tops, and swapped out my plugs about 8k miles ago, so i doubt it's them. Did the HPFP around 15k miles ago, so i doubt it's that, plus i smell fuel while turning it over. If i had to guess i screwed up a valve. Maybe an injector best case scenario, but i dont think so. At the dealer now waiting to hear back from them sometime next week.
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I was told by the dealer it would be over 150 to scan and do a fuel trim on my 02 Explorer, XLT, 4.0, Auto. I can't afford the scan or a garage. I paid 4200 for it and a short time later it starts surging at stop lights then it starts sputtering when idling and taking a while to start. Next it stops accelerating past 2.5k, then works well a bit then stops accelerating past 50 miles an hour. Then it works with an 02 disconnected then starts acting up again. It now either runs normal, wont accelorate past certain ranges, or starts then quits 3 seconds later, unless I unplug the MAF then it runs 15 seconds then stalls. Through all this symptoms come and go. Always banks 1 and 2 lean.
Symptoms
Knock
Rough Idle
Slow Starts
Hesitation
Lag
Stall
Replaced
02 Sensors
Fuel Filter
Injectors
Plugs
Plug Wires
Tested
Maf
TP
Temp Sensor
Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor
All EGR Components
Idle Valve
Coil Pack
For any air leaks.
Fuel pressure 37 or higher
Clean Fuel Pump Strainer
Flow tested pump
Checked air filter
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My 94 4Runner V6 has been acting up for over 4 months now. I've replaced the mass air flow sensor, the fuel pump, the fuel regulator, the O2 sensor, the spark plugs, spark plug wires, new distributor and rotor and last but not least the fuel line filter and dam it it's still screwed up. The spark plugs didn't show any signs of sooting or fouling in any way, I compared there color to Other used spark plugs and they looked good.
I've spent over $2000 on this 4Runner that had run perfect for almost 14 years and now I cannot even drive for 5 minutes without it bucking, hesitating, with No Power at all and eventually stalling. I also replaced the ECM or ECU with a good used one. I also cleaned the air intake and throttle body and cleaned and reattached the ground to the battery, the ECM, the coil which shows as being good, the ground to the engine from the firewall were also inspected and cleaned. I even bought a new gas cap for the gas tank and also had the fuel injectors cleaned at the dealer and "They Said The Engine Runs Perfect When It Is Hooked Up To The Fuel Injector Cleaner" but when it's hooked up to the fuel system again it acts up again.
One Thing About It IS When It's Acting Up If I Turn Off The Engine, While In Neutral And Restart It It Works Good For A Few Minutes Then Starts Acting Up Again. The engine is good, there are times it works Perfect for a few hours but Eventually it will act up.
Now that the summer is on us it's acting up even more because of using the air conditioning. It use to only act up when it would be warmed up or hot and only when there is a load on the engine, like driving around normally, but now it's even acting up when it's idling after just starting it.
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To make a long story long, my v6 developed a hesitation on startup after being driven and then sitting for a few hours. Sometimes so bad it almost dies - popping noise from under the bonnet and lurching would best describe the symptoms, the harder you press the accelerator the worse the symptoms. After about 5 to 10 seconds of driving goes away and never happens again until it sits of another few hours. Somewhat disconcerting when you decide to pull out in front of traffic....
Also recently started surging on freeway slightly and worse going up mountain passes at freeway speeds, may or may not be related. Does not have anything to do with brake predal being depressed, I can pressed the brake pedal and accelerator pedal at same time and car will rev and accelerate immediately upon brake predal release.
Talked to service advisor who told me that I needed to be sure and run premium in my vehicle which I always do. A couple days later with continued issues talked to my service advisor who then told me that the fuel in the NW had a problem and that I needed to run only mid grade and that would take care of the problem, which it did not. Talked to my service advisor again and he said that I needed to run only regular, that regular seemed to be taking care of the problem with the regional bad fuel all along he has been claiming that other manufactures are having the same problem Volvo, Saab, Ford on certain models.
I went along with one tank of regular did not make a difference on the hesitation, but made my vehicle more underpowered than normal. At this point I made a 2000 mile trip to CA and used CA fuel which is another completely different gas formulation than any other state in the west - 4 tank fulls of CA fuel made no difference same problem, both hesitation and surging. Took it back to dealer who then tried to tell me that it is a whole US problem with fuel....I wanted to call BS at that point, but agreed to let them keep it for a checkout, they kept if for 24 hours checking it out no codes, VW told them to run injector cleaner through it.
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I have a 2000 Grand Prix GT with about 125,000 miles on it. Whenever I accelerate gently on the pedal the rpm will waver back and forth, especially between 2000 and 3000 rpm's. It seems to hesitate as the rpm goes down and then surges back and forth almost on one second intervals until I either let go of the pedal or punch it down to kick it into overdrive.
I have had a code in the past that the o2 sensor by the cat convertor was getting messed up readings, can't recall the specific number off hand though. Do you think that these problems could be caused by a bad catalytic convertor? I have smelled the classic rotten egg smell before from my car too, but it didn't seem to smell when I smelled the exhaust tonight. How would I test this myself easily?
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I have a 2005 Ford Freestyle with 59,xxx miles. My wife and I drive it less than 7,000 miles p/year. About six months ago it began to surge (we had already taken it back to the dealer for some work on a recall related to surges while idling). However, the surge that now occurs is not related to the recall--it can happen anytime, even when on the highway while in cruise control at 70 mph. It makes the driveability of the car questionable. We have had it back to the Ford deal repeatedly, only to be told a number of high dollar things that seem to be based on guesses rather than actual data. No codes have come up with computer diagnostics.
We have also taken to independent mechanics, only to be told there is nothing wrong. Only once did a mechanic say that he 'felt' the surging when he test drove the vehicle. But even then, the shop said that they would have to do a tune-up (which raised a red flag with me because tune-ups no longer seem to be the proper term to be used with modern engine maintenance). I did a lot of research and as a result I asked a mechanic to test the fuel pump. The result is that the low pressure was 39.5 lbs, and, the high pressure was also 39.5 lbs.
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My extremely used Explorer was driven off the lot, and ran like a champ for 3 months. One morning, I started it up, and noticed a chugging sound. While backing it out of the driveway, the truck felt like it was going to rattle apart. This was a sudden change. When I hit about 40mph, and I'm in 3rd gear, the truck hesitates and chugs along. If I stomp on the accelerator, the truck will kick into 2nd gear, and stops chuging for a second, then the gear changes back to 3rd and the hesitation starts again. If I disconnect the battery for a few minutes, then connect, I can drive normally for about 10 minutes, then back to the surging/hesitation. I've heard this might be a problem with the oxygen sensors or the mass air flow sensor.
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1990 Maxima. The car hesitates/surges occassionally after warm start, but only surges for about first 1/4 mile, then its OK. Sometimes it idles low, especially when I come to a stop and apply brakes hard. I believe the two issues are related. This has been getting progressively worse over past few years.
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My 2008 Honda Civic 1.8L LX surges forward when driving down circular parking garage ramp with foot on brake; otherwise, the only problem is occasional hesitation. What is the cause?
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