Golf V R32 :: No Heat At All On The Passenger Side
Jan 23, 2014
Heat on HIGH
Drivers side dash vent and defrost will blow fairly warm air, but no where near the 120 it should be on high
Pass side vents ( all ) blow cold air.
Car heats up fine according to the dash gauge and doesn't overhear.
I've run VCDS and there are no fault codes pulling up, so I am at a loss. With the temp being -15 with the wind-chill, it's a damn chilly drive into work. At first I thought it might be the heater core, but that wouldn't explain the split dash issue.
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My wife drives a 2010 Hyundai Elantra with a 5speed manual trans with about 40K mi on it . We purchased the service maintenance package that covers all scheduled major and regular maintenance. A year ago they replaced the head gasket because they discovered a small oil seep. Well a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the heat is fine on the drivers side and blows cool on the passenger side. This is a problem particularly when defrosting the windshield.
When she brought it in for the next scheduled service a couple of days ago I asked that she mention this problem to the service people. Their response was "we need to do a cooling system flush which would not be covered by the service contract" to the tune of a couple a hundred bucks. The coolant is the transparent green it should be due to it being changed one year ago so I have my doubts about it being the heater core.
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Just had the truck in the dealership for a bad blend door/ heater core case. Heat would only blow out warm on the passenger side, blows cold on drivers side. Dealership replaced the case, heat works normal on both sides now. It was a little warm out yesterday so i turned on the A/C, frosty cold on passenger side, warm on drivers side, temperature does change when i select different temperatures (dual zone.)
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I have a 2010 F150 Lariat with dual heat controls. The passenger side has no heat, blows cold air. Doesn't matter if it is defrost, vent, floor and recirculate.
Search online, it appeared that the blend door actuator motor would be the problem. I have put in a new one, but nothing changes. What to look at next?
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I have a 2006 Azera Limited and I am not getting any heat coming out of the passenger side vents. It will blow cold air so I know the blower motor is working and pumping out cold air, and I am getting heat on the drivers side just fine. With the cold weather now settling into Ohio, I wanna jump on this issue before it becomes a bigger problem.
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My 03 Camry is blowing cold air on the passenger side while the heat is on. The drivers side blows hot air as it should. The coolant is full. Its a 4cyl LE and does not have dual climate control.
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1998 Ford Windstar 3.0 van. After in town driving for for 1/2 hour or more, my passenger side front wheel begins to heat up severely (partially melted the hubcap). It also begins to "grab" as if the emergency brake is on. when it cools off, it seems to rolls normally. I am nearing not hearing any obvious bad bearing noises when it is cool.
It seems like an obvious bad wheel bearing issue, right? Before I take it in to a shop to replace the bearing and the hub, I want to explore if it could be a faulty caliper that might seize when it heats up.(something I can fix easily myself)
What can I look for to diagnose? When it is cool with the wheel removed I see no obvious issues with the brake pads/caliper, but that is not to say it doesn't act differently when super hot.
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I have the 3.5 LX AWD 2004 Santa Fe 102,000 miles purchased new. My power steering fluid reservoir was leaking from the top a lot. I read here that the screen in it could be clogged. I went to the garage the manager never heard of such a thing he said, and never heard of a PS reservoir having a screen (I gave him the TS. He said if I got the part and wanted it changed they would change it. I did that. It was done 2 weeks ago and now it all dry under there. But, now.. there is a low whine on the passenger side under the hood toward the back, but when I put the A/C on or the heater on defrost (Not when heater is on, only in defrost) there is a loud rumble/hum from the same area. Shut A/C or defroster it goes back to a low buzz/hum again.
I had the power steering pump replaced at the dealer about 2 years ago, its not old. The noise is NOT any louder when I crank the steering wheel all the way to either side. The fluid since replacing the Power steering fluid reservoir is staying at the same level, full, no leaking. When I put everything on, lights heat only (No defroster), radio, lights the noise doesn't get any louder either, I tested that. The other night after driving about a half hour to and from a place I went to u-turn in a parking lot and that whine was louder for a minute and while driving forward slowly out of the parking lot getting up to speed.
When I asked about the PS fluid reservoir, I had also, asked the repair shop manager his opinion, of that loud hum/rumble when I put the A/C on (At the time I thought it only happened with the A/C when the compress popped on). He listened said "That's the A/C compressor it's going and its going and cost more to replace it then its worth on your 2004." So, that's the background.
Questions: 1. Just wondering if you think it is the A/C compressor that is the loud noise when on, would the A/C compressor even go on when the defroster is on, the A/C is off, and the heat on and there for still make that loud rumble??? Or does that defroster fact kind of mean its not the A/C compressor??
2. What is your opinion of the low buzz/whine noise now (When heat/AC off)? I can't pin point it totally in park when listening, its very low (Except that one point where it was loud for a few minutes driving out of the parking lot.) (The motor sounds a bit louder in it in front too just side observation)
I almost worried if the low buzz was the Transmission as its fluid hasn't been changed in a few years (Because the mechanic said sometimes changing the fluid when its been a lot of miles between can actually cause problems to the transmission) It was done at the dealer around 45,000 miles and now my Santa Fe has 102,000 miles.
Could the power steering pump be going bad in only 2 years from what I've described? Or could the PS fluid reservoir having been spitting PS fluid from the top for a couple of weeks have caused damage to the PS pump now?
The fluid never got lower then full when it was coming out of the top and only when driving, I kept checking it. The mechanic who put the PS fluid reservoir in said he had no idea if it leaked from the top due to the screen as he felt the screen had only minor debris that was not blocking a lot of the screen since its a big screen (He didn't look too hard though), and it was possible even a small crack in the reservoir could cause that same fluid coming out at the top. He said it could be either he didn't notice a crack either.
Or are these two noises possibly not related even though possibly from the same area on the passenger side under hood.
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2010 fx4 duel temp controls...
My driver side works great (heat and AC). My passenger side does not cool or heat properly. Not sure about the back.
From what I have read this is most likely the upper door actuator...Which is what I was hoping because the lower one is such a nightmare. Am I on the right track here?
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Noticed something weird the other day I was driving into town and noticed it was getting hard to take off like the truck needed more power or like the ebrake was slightly on I get to my aunts house and notice that I can smell and feel heat coming off of the passenger side rear tire so I get closer and notice that the brake is locked up. what could cause this? and another weird thing about a year and half ago this same thing happened to my mother in law as she was driving the truck and me and my father in law replaced the brake caliper and replaced both rotors and pads on both rear tires and I used a good amount of grease on the slide pins so to keep the pins from seizing up. and now it locked up again what could cause this?
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Another question on this, my 2008 F250 with auto climate has decided to only blow heat on the passenger side...do you agree that it is an actuator? If so how hard or easy is this to fix and what is the best fix.
While here, on another note, I noticed a rubber line hanging right over my front diff it looks like it could go onto a nipple coming off the diff? Is this a vacuum line for the diff that I need to put back?
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Here's the situation: Just crossed over 30k miles and the Driver's side seat does not heat up. The passenger seat does work, and gets pretty warm when turned up any further than 1.
I did some searching and found some general info about similar problems in other MkIV's, but nothing specific to the R32 seats. (The warranty was for 4 years/50,000 miles, which ever came first, and VWoA will not cover our seats under the MkIV Recall.) Here's what I've tried so far:
1. Swapped switches - No difference.
2. Checked the fuses and verified that I have power to the switches
I tried to check for power at the Green connector under the seats, but got nothing for either passenger or driver's side. What should I try next?
If I check the resistance of the element in the seat, which wires do I need to check? Is there another connector under the seat I should check?
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Ive been hearing some noises coming from the right side of the dashboard when I turn the heat on. Then last night, smoke/steam started coming through the vents with a strong odor. Popped the hood and there is some smoke coming from behind the engine as well. Sounds like the heater core but why the smoke from the engine? Temperature gauge reads as normal and I have no lights on the dash.
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My passanger side blade has been hitting the side of my windshield randomly since the car was new. Wasn't able to replicate the issue at the dealer so I was pulling the blade off last night to investigate and broke the small square retaining clip (Red arrow). Do the clip assembly (Blue arrow) can be purchased separately or if I have to buy a whole new wiper.
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My Drivers side headlight points slightly higher than my passenger side headlight. Is this normal or do I need to adjust, and if so how do I adjust?
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Ok so here's the deal.. A few weeks back I started to notice my passenger side window started to roll slower than the driver side, not by much but its pretty obvious enough every time you either roll the window down or up.. I made an appointment with a VW service center to have them look at it but they said they can't do anything about it .. Is this true ..? The service guy told me that their would be no way to make the motor of the window go any faster or slower.. However I'm back here again due to some clunking/ticking noise every time I roll my pax side window which develop during their first assessment.. So they ordered me a new window regulator which is getting put in now.. The main and initial problem as to why I made an appointment in the first place was for VW service center to fix my pax side window rolling a bit slowly. Now since they are replacing the regulator of my pax side window I asked the service guy whether this would fix the problem of the window rolling slower compare to the driver side and he bluntly said no.. "we cannot make the motor of the window go slower or faster".. Is their any way to fix the rate of the window to go up or down..?
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I have koni seyup and my car is lowered all the way down all around. my front passenger side sits lower then the driver side.. I also have camber plates in the front. What u think could be the problem.
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I got under the car today to change the oil and noticed the front drivers side is about an inch lower than the passenger side its causing the inside of my tire to wear very badly.
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I've just finished installing Driver Side Puddle Lights just under the mirror. I still haven't coded it yet.
[URL]..................... I ran into a problem:
As I want to use the electrical mirrors to adjust my driver side mirror, passenger side mirror moves too. Is it possible that these faults caused by not coded ECU?
I connected ground wire of my LED to blue and black cable connected to the mirror and ran another wire from unit 10 in 16 pin door connector to live wire from my LED.
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I have a mkvi gti with all stock suspension except rear sway bar. And I'm right about to order driver gear springs. But have a question about suspension. My rear driver side of the car sits about half inch lower then then rear passenger side on a flat ground. Would this be caused by springs? Or struts? Or what. Planning on ordering the driver gear springs but what the real problem is. I want the driver gear so I'm a bit lowered but not crazy low since the roads in my home town are awful and my street I have to do figure 8's all the way down it to not hit a pot hole.
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The other day I noticed my passenger side hid was out, so I ordered up a set of bulbs and they arrived a couple days ago. I just finished installing the new bulbs, turned on the lights, and the bulb is still not coming on. I bought these oem hids from 1of1500 right around last Christmas and aside from the pin adaptors being a little ratty, they were in essentially new condition (how sparingly his TR .:R was used and the condition he keeps things in). When we installed the lights they worked, and since have worked without issue. The high beam still works. Is there any chance the 10-12 pin adaptor is to blame here? It is pretty beat up. I can't imagine the ignitor is bad since I've only put 3000 or so miles on the car sine installing the lights.
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