I am having some issues with my radiator fan (the big one). Vagcom show an error I think it was "Movement Restricted / Jammed" so I'm thinking of ordering a new one but not the OEM . A year ago I had issues with the same fan, hit it with a small bat and it worked fine until now.
[URL]........
The Symptoms: Car decided not to turn over for my son one morning, when I came home I tried with my key and the engine did turn over but immediately died.
Turned on key to power and watched for lights like the immobilizer/key but that came on and went off no problems there, did the same with both keys and the immobilizer/security key light went off fine.
Read for codes and there was a P0320 which pointed to Crankshaft Position Sensor. Order the part from good old Rock Auto and 2 days later it came, installed, cleared out the code, tried to start, did not start.
Decided to spray some starter fluid into the throttle body to get it to turn over in hopes a new code would come out.
It did fire up for a few seconds and did throw another code, this time P0321. That code points to the same sensor I just replaced.
Figured I would check to ensure the fuel pump and relay were working so I wired from positive and negative battery terminal to the outer plug clips at the fuel pump and I heard and felt it click. Not sure if it should prime and make more than just a click.
In my other cars you can clealy hear it prime for more than a second so not sure if the fuel pump is really the culprit here.
The car has 125K and the pump is original I can see.
I did check the relay fuse under the drivers side dash and I can feel/hear it click when I turn the ignition on.
I also did check all of the various fuses in the side compartment that have to do with the engine, they all look good and tested with multimeter as well.
So now I did order a new fuel pump, what else to try out? I did change the fuel filter at 100K so do not believe that is causing the issue. Not sure if the fuel regulator by the rail could be an issue.
It seems like all of a sudden fuel is not being delivered and with faulty injectors or plugs, they throw a code for misfire etc. Also starter seems to be fine, no griinding/smoke etc but was thinking about taking it out and over to Advance to have them check as well.
1) Are there 2 lights in the head light projector 1 for low and 1 for high? Didn't see the lenses move as high beams go on.
2) do all R's come with LED license plate lights? Mine did and I ordered a set from ECS. So if someone didn't get LED's and they want a set PM me. 20 bucks shipped
3) I'm having trouble searching for the coding on turning off the headlights moving (hate it!) I find myself watching the damn lights and not the road.
4) I'm having trouble searching for the code to have the DRL LED's on full with the headlights on. I'd be nice to get those both added to the DIY post that thread was nice enough to put together.
After the very hard runs up in the mountains at SoWo, I've began to experience some engine movement when the car shifts at low speeds, i.e. stop and go traffic. At its worst, I've experienced a clicking or almost grinding-like sound sound when said engine movement (during the low speed shifting/accelerating/stopping) takes place. These noises tend to come and go. They were really bad at one point on the ride home - when an accident in Atlanta brought traffic to an almost standstill and we were stuck in bumper to bumper traffic. Today however, no noise at all.
I took a quick look under the car and my HPA core mount (which I thought may have completely fallen out for some reason ) is still there. I haven't jacked the car up yet to get under it or put it up on a lift but considering the symptoms, I have reason to believe my OEM pendulum mount may be damaged, or that the pendulum bolts may have come loose after the very spirited driving in Helen.
At high speeds, there is no sound and no (apparent or noticeable) increase in engine movement.
[URL] .... This thread in the MKIV R forum is closest to the symptoms I'm experiencing.
Getting some lateral movement when on straightaways at higher speeds, it's minimal but feels like the whole car is swaying a little side to side. The suspension feels great otherwise and cornering is accurate. My current setup is:
- Bilstein Sport Shocks and Struts
- Neuspeed Rear Sway Bar
- H&R Front Sway Bar
- Stock on the rest
I think this started when I added the front sway bar but am not sure, had the rear on long before adding it. Would upgraded sway bar end links work or make this more noticeable? Thought about trying to swap the stock front sway bar back in but that one is kind of difficult to get to. How to remedy this?
I've tried to search for fixes but nothing comprehensive works. The problem is that the auto window movement going up will stop halfway and lower a few inches so that it is about a quarter from being fully rolled down. Now, i've managed to get it back all the way up but I'd have to hold the up button. the auto roll is very picky and only works perfectly 50/50. I've tried to reteach the window settings and that does not work either.
The car only has about 1200 miles on it, and no moisture has ever gotten in. seeing as how people have complained about it before but not able to find a conclusive fix, should i just make time to see the dealership and have warranty cover it?
Here is a video I've found of the exact same behavior: [URL] .....
I'm suspecting that my motor mounts are going bad, but I'm not 100% sure. I have a video of the engine movement when slipping the clutch and revving the engine with the e-brake on. [URL]............................... I don't need high performance ones, but don't want to spend a ton on OEM ones either.
View 5 RepliesJust noticed this morning that when I move slowly there is a noise consistent with the cars movement in the rear right side of the car. What could be causing this back there? Almost sound like if the car was moving while the brake was engaged.
View 1 Replies2013 MKVI golf TDI with DSG. I use the manual mode a lot and now the shifter makes a squeak noise and is no longer a smooth movement. Ive attached a video link below of the noise.
I've tried spraying silicone lube down into the shifter and it hasn't made any difference. How I can maybe take the shifter apart and grease it?
[URL] ....
I replaced water pump with timing belt and thermostat. Took a test drive and engine still overheats. Radiater fan kicks in when it's hot. The upper hose from radiator to engine is very hot, only allows me to touch for 1 sec. But, the lower hose is warm, I can leave my fingers over it 10 sec or more. What is the problem? do I have a restricted radiator? Do I need a new one or I can flush and clean it. I posted a thread earlier regarding gunk in cooling system. I change coolant annually but it alway get brownish once it gets circulated around. The antifreeze leaked out from the car at junk yard where I removed the thermostat housing, looks much better than mine.
View 1 RepliesSo I just installed brand new coilovers and I quickly noticed a this problem. On the passenger side, when the wheel is lifted, I can feel a little bit of movement from the coilover and it really seems like it is the top bushing that is moving. I can see the metal top plate moving a little also. Everything is we tighten andI did the same thing as the driver's side but only this one does this. When the car is on the ground I can feel there is a bit of play in the wheel if I bang on it with my hand. Also, I know the gap on the top plates is normal, specially when lowered but again the passenger side looks weird and is much higher then the other side. What I'm I missing here ? Both side top bushing and bearing are also brand new.
View 14 RepliesI have a problem with my golf 4 window. RR after washing it the window wouldn't go up again it just made a grinding noise inside but no movement when you press the switch, I watched a few videos on how to open the panel and I did and found this wire lying around like this I don't know what to do from here as the car must go for a test for registration and they check the windows. do i need to buy the entire back panel?
View 2 RepliesMy fan sounds like its blowing hard on high but air flow seems to be restricted some. I have noticed a sound of the fan hitting leaves in the past. I just don't know how they get in there. It still cools good but air flow is nice when the temperature is close to 100.
96 Ranger 2.3 XLT Regular Cab ...
I have an 1997 F150/4.2 V6/220,000 miles/4x2. During hot weather (over 90F) the engine slowly overheats. While driving on the interstate (from Indy to Fort Wayne), the coolant temperature shows normal on the gauge. Slowly the temperature gage creeps up to close to the red area. I am running the A/C.
When I switch the heater on and the heater fan at max, the temperature gauge drops pretty quickly to a normal range. I switch off the heater and the A/C back on, then it takes 30 minutes for the temperature gauge to start rising again.
When I open the hood when the gage shows close to the red area, the upper coolant hose has a lot of pressure (cannot squeeze it), which would mean that the thermostat is open and the waterpump is working. Also the fan is running fast. The coolant was changed out a few weeks ago and the coolant level is at normal level when the engine is cold. At lower ambient temperatures, there is no overheating. I am puzzled what the problem can be. I am thinking of a restricted coolant flow. Looking for solutions to my problem.
I have a 2014 ford F350. Was flood damages, all fixed and running great except a couple of small problems. One is the volume is restricted to 49%.
Supposedly you can turn off mykey in settings with admin key inserted. I have 3 keys, tried them all no my key option.
I have IDS so erased all keys, reprogrammed them, still no mykey option. I read that all newly programmed keys are admin by default, is that correct? if so, how to fix this?
I also have a cloned key programmer, tried that erased all keys, made new ones, still no mykey option in cluster settings. its a new cluster from ford, programmed on installation.
So I have been noticing the spring when the car is neutral is VERY slow to react or the car doesn't center back if you move it side to side. What causes this in terms of which shifter spring/cable controls that? I'm not sure if that piece is in the car under the shifter OR in the engine bay. I'm thinking the springs or plastic over the years is finally shot so shifting has become rather sluggish. Gets worse as the car heats up.
View 3 RepliesEver since ive owned my 337 its always been a pain to keep my cel off but i got a pocket scanner and found that the code is coming up for a bad ECM !!! i called around and the cheapest i found was 1200.
View 8 RepliesSo from the beginning the car wasn't coming on. It gave me error "p" said my parking break was not working properly and needed to be on a flat surface in order to work. We jumped it and replaced the battery shortly after that. The car will turn on but the actual engine is not turning on. The display screen has a little car with a red exclamation going through it. The dashboard also has all the lights on. We have tried to jump it from the relay at this point but it wont start now to where before it would.
View 6 RepliesFrom time to time, the engine lights comes on with error code P0365, it usually disappears within two days (it disappears by itself), but it appears once per month and stays for two days.
The code scanner says :P0365 Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1)
Do I need to change the sensor? and where is it located?
my Sonata is 2009, 2.0L (Korean imported) 4 cylinder ...
So tonight I took apart my glove box and center console in hopes of relocating the TPMS button...Once I put everything back together the MFD says airbag error and when i sit in the passenger seat the airbag icon in the center console is flashing and a 2 and a X. Also the airbag icon is on the dash.
View 13 RepliesCar is at the dealership now and they said that the sensor is being stretched out from being too low. I'm only dropped on a h&r sport cup kit, nothing drastic.
View 24 Replies