Golf V R32 :: Motor Stalled In Drive When Coming To A Stop
Oct 2, 2012
Coming home from a 2500km round road trip and back. At the time I was about half way home during the 1300km day, the car is in D and has been all day and it has been about 500km since I last came to a complete stop. I stop at a red light on the highway in a small town on my way through, look at the tach and see the rpms, once its dropped down to first, dip down to about 300 or so, then quickly back up to 550/600 which is its normal idle, then all the sudden it stalls out completely killing the motor. Cycle the key and start it up right away and it drives as usual. his might be the 2nd time this has happened. R32's and DSG.
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My oil pressure warning light has come on numerous times, only happened when I'm in a drive thru or at a stop sign, I switched from VW castrol oil to royal purple. The oil pressure warning comes on flashes 3 times and says check owners Manual. So I did and it says not to idle or run the car... The oil is fine. If this serious or a flaw in the electrical? It still drives the same and nothing has changed.
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I have a 99 Mazda 626 (automatic) and in the past year it has stalled out on 3 separate occasions after coming to a stop at a stoplight. The car sputters off, the wheel locks and it just dies. After this happens the car won't click over to start. However, after letting it sit for several hours, the car will start up again without any problem like nothing was wrong.
I even had the car towed to a mechanic after one of these instances. The car was towed to the shop on a Saturday and on Monday when the mechanic went to see what was wrong, the car started up fine and showed no signs of an issue. I have always been able to start it up without a problem on a day to day basis. (The car also just recently got a lot louder -- I found a sizable hole in the B pipe--so I don't think the noise is related. Anyway, I just don't want to stall out in traffic again so is it time to buy a new fuel pump or could a smaller fix take care of the problem?
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A week ago I swapped out my 19's (summer) for the 18's (winter). This probably has nothing to do with the swap, but now I'm hearing a squeak coming form the drive train each time I start from a dead stop. This squeak is noticeable for the first 10-15 feet, then disappears until the next time I accelerate from a stop. I have 14k on the odometer.
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I have a 13 Altima and have been hearing a clunk/pop sound when coming to a stop and sometimes when changing from park to drive and park to reverse. It seems to also be there when accelerating too and the car is also seem to be vibrating when moving at lower speeds. Today i noticed something else. I parked the car and took the key out. I went to the side of the car and slowly rocked it back and forth and started to hear this clunk sound. I have uploaded it to youtube and can be found here [URL].... . After hearing the sound, I decided to take the driver wheel off and noticed it makes the same sound when i move the tires. It seems to be coming from the CV joint, where it connects to the transmission. why would a car make that clunk sound with the car/key off and swayed back and fourth? does this seem like a CV joint issue or something related to the transmission.
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So I put in an MFA cluster a couple months ago and now all of a sudden the other day it started flashing STOP motor oil pressure low turn off car. It happened twice right in a row. I took the car to my local firestone changed the oil and pulled out. Five mins later it did it again. It only seams to go off when my rpms are really low in second or third gear. I'm guessing it's a bad sensor cause my oil level is fine.
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I have a 24v vr6 gti, stage 2 C2 motor sports tune, and when i turn the key to the on position a message pops up on the dash that says: STOP OIL PRESS. STOP MOTOR! What this means or why it happens?
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I've got a 2001 1.5L Accent with about 110,xxx miles on it. The car stalled at a stoplight and would not start. Earlier that day it had been driven pretty hard for a while with very little oil.
When I turn the ignition, there is only a high pitched buzzing/whirring sound. the motor won't turn over, so I assume it's probably seized up.
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Today i went out side to warm up my car before heading out to work ... When i started my car i got out and i hear a Loud HISSING sound ??? So i popped the hood and it just got louder ?? sounds like its coming from the top of the motor and also on the left side by the belts ??? its a 2004 R32 and i just hit 80K miles?? What it could be ??
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I just started hearing this clicking/ticking sound about two days ago. It is definitely coming from the pulley/belt side of the motor and is more pronounced from under the car. I've tried to see what happens when I turn the A/C on and it still continues like normal. At idle its spaced 3 seconds apart with 3 consecutive clicks/ticks.
As I raise the RPM its spaced closer but still has 3 pronounced clicks that I can hear until the exhaust drowns it out. Tension on the belt seems to be good and its in good condition. The car runs better than it did a year ago with MPG actually going up a few about a week ago (cleaned the MAF, new filter, new tires).
I did have a P0103 code 2 weeks ago due to an over oiled K&N filter but I've done the work listed above since then with great results. The car runs great right now but I'm a stickler for the little details, like obnoxious noises (especially ones that are potentially bad).
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Recently my GTI has been ticking, but it is only between 1 and 2 thousand rpm. After 2k it runs fine and doesn't make the sound. Local tuner suggested an oil pressure problem (not using the proper oil) but I am using the proper oil. It has been like this for over a month now and nothing has come of it. It is coming from the belt side of the motor and sounds like plastic ticking. Could it be a belt?
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So this morning on my way to work its pouring. Drive 30 min and while slowing down at the last stop sign the car stalls. Car wont start anymore. Not even trying to turnover. Damn TB must have snapped.
So I ended up pushing the car into my works parking lot. Luckily rain stopped by lunch time. I popped open the driver side TB cover just enough to see if the belt. The belt did not seem to have snapped. I was able to push down on it with some force. There was definitely tension on it. So I ask my buddy to try and start it. I could see the belt turning. Tried a second time to start and this time I would even hear the starter. all it would do is a clicking sound.
Is it possible the belt is really broken? I'm now thinking it might have jumped a tooth or something and now all my valves are bent. Car has 140k km. Previous owner said it was changed but could not provide any proof. I guess my question: is there anything else that would cause TB Failure symptoms. I mean the car stalled out. How could it not be the TB...
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Got a 90 740 GLE station wagon (missing its rear muffler at present) that turns over yet doesn't like to start up on the first or second try. It has also stalled out at stop signs, and once when driving. Had a tune up about 3 months ago, new plugs and plug wires, and some welding on the exhaust, but the muffler is still missing. Could the exhaust be causing this in any way? It always eventually starts. Could use a little more power, but, hey, it's a 22 year old car. I'd really like to get this solved, as my ex drives it with my kid. Could this be a fuel pump or fuel filter issue?
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Just got off work about 2 minutes had to stop & it stalled. I let it sit for 5 & it started up with a fault code P0601 (Internal control module - Memory check sum error)? How to proceed for repair?
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe (4 cyl 2.7 L FWD) with only 42,000 miles on it. Coming home from work I was stopped at a stop sign and after stepping on the gas (halfway thru the intersection) my engine stalled - coasting to a stop (while crossing a very busy intersection I might add). After putting it in park I try to restart it - the engine cranks over as usual and starts but roughly 4 to 7 seconds afterwards it stalls again. I did this 4 or 5 times again with the same results. I'm almost positive the check engine light is on. The next day I popped the hood to see if the belt broke but its fine so I tried to start it again (same results engine starts but after 4 to 7 sec. stalls again). Before this engine trouble I haven't had one ounce of trouble from my Santa Fe. Not to be funny but yes there is a half a tank of gas in it... with plenty of fluids in it. After some research I kind of think its the Crank-shaft sensor (seems to be a problem with them in the Santa Fe's).
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so my r32 recently started making a nasty popping noise. the sound seems to either be coming from something in the rear end or drive shaft. not sure why it happened. i went on a 2 hour trip. got there parked it. aired it down (bags) but then when i came back and when to drive it again. it all of a sudden it started making a horrible popping noise. i thought it was the front wheel bearing going out since i knew it need to be replaced but i did that today and its still making the noise.
The noise sound just like a RWD car with a welded diff when it turns. kinda has that locked rear end hop popping noise. i lifted the whole car off the ground and put it in first to let the tires spin in the air but of course theres no weight on them so it doesn't make any noise. i'm really stumped on what it could be. im going to take the driveshaft off and see if it still dose it. then i know its for sure in the rear end. What it could be?
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've had my R since last July and I love it so far (20,000 mi.). Recently I have run into a couple of problems.
1. When coming to a stop, my RPM drops to 600 and then as I release my foot off the brake, it dips down to 400 and back up again causing a "jerking" motion. This sounds a bit different then what most of you are talking about regarding the recall.
2. I am about to buy my 2nd new front tire due to a bubble in the sidewall. I have the Dunlop SP Sports.
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I have a Jetta with 130,000 miles. At around 35-50mph during acceleration, I can feel a wobble that would seem to be coming from the driver side drive train. I don't hear any noise with this just the wobble/vibration.
Never wrecked, 5spd manual. If I am not accelerating or putting stress on the drive train, the wobble stops.
I am guessing it could be bad tranny mount, I've looked at it put some hand force on it and jiggled it around a bit and mount seems to have a little bit of play not sure if that's normal if i really try the mount it moves back and forth very little movement but some and if i can move it easily I am sure the engine can beat it up
ALSO my axle came out or broke recently so replaced it with one from advanced auto parts also another possible culprit.
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The other day while at a stop sign in my e99 F450, I went to take off and stalled. I am not sure if the stall was my fault or not; however, it would not start. I turned the key on and the wait to start light did not come on.
The first thing I checked was the mini 30 amp fuse under the dash that controls the GRP and the fuel bowl heater. The fuse was good, and my heater has been unplugged for a while anyway. Recently my SES light came on with codes that said the glow plugs had low voltage for both banks. I have cleaned the wires a couple times and the light goes out but then comes back on after a minute or so.
I figured that maybe if it was a bad wire it finally went bad so I got jumper cables and started to try and jump wires. I moved them around and found that when I hooked one side to the positive battery terminal and the other to the small key hot wire on the glow plug relay, the light would come on and it would start. I left the cables hooked up and drove the couple miles back home.
After messing with it I figured I could run a new wire. I got a fuse tap, and went from the 30 amp mini fuse that controls this system anyway, and ran it up to the post on the GPR for my new keyed hot wire. The WTS light would cycle and it would crank, but no start. After some more messing around I decided to put both the original wire back onto the post with the new wire that I had just put on; after doing this it started right up. I took it for a test drive and a couple times the engine would act like it stalled, only for a split second. When looking down at the dash immediately after the tach would be at normal RPM and the WTS light would be on, as if I shut the key off and tried to start it again.
I suspect it is the original key hot wire that goes to the GPR. It appears that this wire also has a purpose, other then serving as only a keyed hot wire for the GPR. It has about 6 inches off of the GPR, then it goes into the harness. Where that wire goes? I will just run a new wire instead of having to dig through that harness... that doesn't look like something I would wish upon my worst enemy.
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I picked up a mkIV about 2 weeks ago, I've noticed that when the car is warming up that it feels like the transmission makes a *thunk* when coming to a stop. It seems to go away for the most part once warmed up, but every once in a while it will happen randomly after the car is warmed up though. I'm assuming this is the transmission disengaging as the wheels stop turning. Is this something I should be worried about, or is this "normal"...
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When I come to a stop there is a squeaking sound that is difficult to localize. It sounds like a combination of a squeaky rubber bushing and/or squeaky bed springs. The volume is magnified when slowing to a stop in a quiet garage but the best I can do is localize it to "the underside of the car".
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