Golf V R32 :: Motor Begin Creating Some Noise Around The Timing Chain
May 5, 2015
I would like to know if any of you had issue with is spark cut. Last week my motor begin to do some noise around the timing chain cover (upper). I open the motor and my exhaust camshaft adjuster was defect ...I change it thinking it was the problem, but the noise still there. (i also change the tensioner bolt). It was not a big noise like when a slider is split in half or something like that.
I pull the transmission off today and saw some weird wear on the slider and tensioner but nothing broken. (i will post pics as soon as I can)
The car have 56k miles
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I read for a few second at start up ok . Have it checked : [URL] ...
I will be opening up the case in next few days. Chain still on holding by a few teeth. Metal wedge between teeth and chain.
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What to do if your timing chain tensioner fails and wipes out the valvetrain. Go to www.vwusa.com and click the contact us page. Find the link for "online chat" and open a dialog with a vw rep. Have the vin, milage, purchase date info handy and tell them what happend.
Maybe I just got lucky, but I thought my (second owner) 2012 GTI with 46000 mi was toast, the rep (Bill H) told me not to worry and set me up with a case number and the location of a dearship that will confirm the damage and replace my engine.
My experience is in direct opposition of what I have read on forums when people take their GTI's to the dealership first, then after hagling with the stealership managers for weeks on end finally end up emailing vw corporate (which takes weeks to respond) and finally having the issue resolved.
Of couse, this is only if your car has not had the warranty run out. I thought that being the second owner voided the powertrain warranty...again that was false.
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Looking for info if the R32 has a timing belt or is it a chain and at how many kilometers shows it be changed.
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I hear it's a problem on the Mk VI. Is there anything you can do or upgrade to eliminate the problem ... especially considering that it goes out of warranty after 5 years.
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I have a problem with my 2005 elantra making a noise that sounded like it was coming from the cam timing chain. since it is still under the 10 year 100,000 mile warr. I brought it to my dealer. I had a P0011 code for advance timing also that keeps popping its ugly head. Dealer said that the chain would not be covered under warranty because of oil sludge and a faulty oil control valve. I went to remove the ocv from the head and when I removed the bolt the solenoid came off without the stem I tried an easy-out and managed to rotate it approx 1/8" but no luck getting it free to pull out.
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I was thinking about checking out the above vehicle at my local dealer (Chevrolet). They're asking 15.9k and it has 57k miles. I need to know if it has a timing belt or a timing chain and how reliable is the engine/transmission.
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So I was installing my head spacer. When i got the head off I noticed the upper two timing chain rails were shot. The tensioner rail has wear marks from the chain and a small crack in it. Is it possible to change these upper two rails without dropping the transmission?
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I've noticed a noise coming from the engine which sounds to me like the timing chain. Seems like the tensioner is keeping the chain a little loose while the RPM's are low. The rattle doesn't happen all the time; only when I let off the throttle or accelerate keeping the RPM's low.
This is just my guess that it's the timing chain. I had heard a similar rattle in my old I35 and I had to change the timing chain tensioner.
I'm going to check the engine oil level tomorrow morning. This 10,000 mile oil change is really starting to seem like a not so good idea! Right now I'm at 9950..
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I have a serious suspicion that I have a timing chain rattle. Using a pipe I located the sound to the front of the engine. It ticks much faster than the injectors like more than ten times faster. There are a few different parts involved with the timing chain tension. I have 150k miles on this car.... MB 1995 c220 ....
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2001 Jetta GLX, 12v 2.8 VR6 Automatic, 157k miles.
Relevant Info: P0411 code, unknown if associated with my slightly rough idle and recently reduced mileage (down by 3-4 MPG). I see 2 N80 valves, one by the power steering reservoir and one behind the throttle body attached to the fire wall. I removed them both, got a tiny bit of what may have been charcoal out of the lower valve and tested both with a 9 volt battery. Both were closed with no power and open when I attached the battery. I cleared the code and it returns within 30 minutes.
Possibly irrelevant info:
Changed the timing chains 3 weeks ago and the code popped up just afterward. Prior to changing the chains, all I saw was a Cam Position Sensor code that is now clear. The slightly rough idle was present to a greater degree before chains were changed but has improved.
SAI solenoids look good but their little rubber hoses don't look fantastic. Could this contribute to the rough idle or is it not part of the vacuum system?
Ignition coil is new and all plug wires tested to about 6k ohms.
I've looked up other's experience with P0411's and have seen the list of possible causes. Wondering if I'm missing a possible cause, if I can test the system further without having to buy parts etc, if the reduced mpg's and rough idle are related...
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I have a 2009 Tiguan 2.0t 4 motion and recently has started having a very high pitched squealing noise coming from either the accessory belt area or the timing chain. The noise is constant until you are under acceleration and then it goes away. The CEL came on but when scanned it said no codes. and now sometimes the CEL will flash and the car has been idling rough. What it may be?
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I brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
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I have been experiencing a strange sort of loud induction/air turbulence/chirp noise right when I begin to apply the throttle at 750-1000 RPMs. It's the type of induction noise you would expect to hear from a car with an open filter intake if you shifted into 6th gear at very low speed(bogging, chirpy noise) Only been happening for a week.
I have an APR intake, and my initial thought was that maybe the tone of the intake had changed a little since it has gotten colder....but you actually cannot even hear the noise under the hood, let alone near the intake. It is only noticeable from inside the cabin. It happens regardless of clutch engagement and a/c. Car drives fine other than that.
It started happening with the soundaktor unplugged. I actually plugged it back in since then in hopes that it might mask the noise.
Video (GTI 6MT)
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On Feb 2015 I had this oil leak developing around the timing chain cover/ oil pressure plug and so i replaced the oil pressure sensor and clean the area and though problem solved...
Fast forward today and the weeping has redeveloped and has gotten larger than last time , its only a weeping issue no visible oil droplet leaks, anyways I took a mirror and when probing around and found the leak origin from the rusty looking timing chain tensioner...that what i think it is.
My question is should I just remove and replace the Rubber O-ring on it or should I just replace the entire timing tensioner unit with a new one, my original timing chain tensioner is sitting at 85k miles. The O-ring is free (i have a kit) and i can do it right now or a New Timing chain tensioner w/ new O-ring is around $20 bucks but i cannot verify the part number ...
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I have an '09 Tiguan that recently began to start hard. Two days ago, it refused to start and hasn't started since. It cranks and cranks but to no avail. I disconnected the fuel line at the first hard piece on the front side of the head. The primer pump when activated pours gas out of the line for about 5-8 seconds.
I also pulled the coil packs off and verified there is spark on them. I scanned the car with vcds and came up with nothing other than a couple voltage codes (battery is low at this point from cranking and is bulged and showing yellow in the spot window).
Tonight I borrowed the perfectly fine battery from my B6 and attempted to start it. No codes whatsoever and yet it still refused to run.
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I have a 2006 Honda CRV with 145,000 miles on it. It has been giving me warning lights for about 10 weeks. My mechanic discovered that it is burning oil, which he says all old cars do. But the lights continued. He put the computer on it and says that I need a new timing chain and it will cots $1,100.00. He also says he's not 100% sure that this will stop the lights. I don't want to sink that kind of money into the car if it won't correct the problem. The lights that come on are the check engine light, the VSA light and the triangle light. They do not come on all of the time. Maybe 3 time a week but they go off if I stop the car and re start it.
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My neighbor have a neglected 1995 Dodge Ram with the 3.9L V6. This engine is called a "Magnum" but I have to say it is pretty gutless overall. Anyway, it has the famous clatter caused by the timing chain tapping against the timing cover. Every one of these from this time period sounds like this and I understand it is a common problem. Is this a critical problem or not? I understand it can be fixed by replacing it with a newer style timing set with a tensioner. If this won't cause damage, I say leave it alone as the noise is just a minor annoyance. I was just in as far as the water pump and was tempted to tackle it but figured it could wait.
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my car timing chain jumps up and down wen i try to start it.befor that i hard alot of clinking sound coming from the motor now the car wont start
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Just purchased a 2002 Camry for my son to drive to school. The car has 275,000 highway miles on it The car was well maintained by the previous owner. I have heard that the timing chain should last about 300,000 miles. However, the owner's manual does not mention any replacement interval. Since the cars mileage is approaching 300k, I'm wondering if the chain needs to be replaced. The engine runs great. However, I do hear a bit of a rattle from the timing chain pully area. I replaced the valve cover gasket and inspected the chain but didn't notice anything unusual. I have mainly driven import cars with timing belts and not sure if this rattling noise is normal for a Toyota with a chain or an early sign of needing replacement.
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Experiencing a really bad rattle after changing the oil? It sounds like the chain tensioners are losing pressure during the oil change.
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