Feel like the car has more torque before the engine is fully up to temperature? Why I am getting that sensation? Makes me wonder about possible benefits of water/meth injection even on NA.
View 8 RepliesDuring my 35 years of experience as a production line and service engineer in the aerospace industry, it was my job to determine the least expensive and easiest foolproof way to perform any production and service operation.
Many readers here have related their experience with the oil filter housing and their difficulty with its removal and reinstallation with the need of a torque wrench to correctly tighten it. Most all technical tightening of screw systems have gone to the "angular torque method," as it is more accurate than the standard torque wrench.
Yesterday leaving a meeting, I started it off gunning it from a light and i went from 1st to 2nd and foreshore i placed it in 3rd and some how it went into 1st and it happened twice last night. i have the forge short shifter from going north to south and from west to east. I been driving stick for years and never had this happen to me, maybe if it happened once it was a drivers error but it happened twice in one night. I have stock motor mounts and even before this my car when gunning on it it won't go into third gear so ill end up missing. And since it hit 8000 rpms do u think I did sum damage to the vehicle, it drives fine and no abnormal noise. anything to check for?
View 24 RepliesI have a stage 2 GTI. What can I do to increase low end torque?
From my research, swaping for a k04 is not going to work, in fact its gonna make it worst.
The car has 108k I bought it with 101k that being said I had no clue when the last tune up was or if the coils were replaced, now I did replace the transmission, transfer case and clutch since then I've noticed a loss of power and torque especially after 3-4k rpm car just seems to fall on its face, if I had to explain it I would say it feels like it went from being tuned to stock, I have no clue if the car had software or not. also some times I get a sputter or almost a hesitation from the rear, I have done the haldex service 2 weeks ago, It absolutely feels like the car isn't breathing right I don't hear the intake as much or cleanly I'm wondering if the intake manifold bushings are bad and could even cause this? doesn't seem to pull as much just from the start though I used to just drive normal and the car almost felt like it was pulling its self doesn't feel anywhere as quick.
View 16 RepliesI have an my 2008 Golf mk5 R32 DSG. I have fitted the GruppeM Intake , done the decat and fitted a Milltek Resonated system. I am based around 1.12 miles above sea level and our fuel here is probably the equivalent of your 91. I had the car dyno'd yesterday with the graph below :
1. What is causing the horrible dip in torque and power just after 4000rpm? Do R32 graphs general look like this? Could it be a result of the variable valve timing?
2. I have a feeling my DSG's mechatronics unit is faulty , could that cause a loss in power or have a result on the dyno run?
3. The power does look low but if I convert it to coastal power it looks to be around 150wkw and 300Nm which seems right?
The biggest concern is the dip in the graph ... Power was measured at all 4 wheels ...
I need the torque specs for the bearing caps and the order to torque them. Can't find the pdf file for the bentley. Looking for a link to the bentley..
View 24 RepliesClutch is starting to slip - can't handle torque above 3k in 6th gear.
6500 miles on the car
700 miles with module
Never launched - just wind out gears occasionally
Don't have to ride clutch on hills
Not a daily driver - not stuck in traffic
I shift like a granny...
I've tried searching everywhere, but can't seem to find the torque for the 4 bolts holding the throttle body to the plastic intake. This is on a 2az-fe engine in my 2004 camry. I imagine the torque would be the same for any Scion, RAV4, etc. that has the same engine.
View 4 RepliesI have an issue with my 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee v8 Laredo that has been bothering me for a little over a year now. When the temperature gets warm out (over 80) and I am traveling on the interstate up a long hill (65-70 mph, towards the end of my commute so about 30 miles in or about 30 minutes) my engine randomly begins to sound like I am in the wrong gear (RPMs do not change but engine sounds like I just changed to second) and I loose quite a bit of torque. I can maintain my speed but my engine sound horrible. After about 10 minutes of this my engine goes back to normal and I can accelerate without issue. Then randomly it goes back to being loud with low torque. To add to the the fun, if this happens at any time during the day, the next day when I start my Jeep the issue resurfaces and I have no torque for about 10 minutes (5 miles) then all is well for the rest of my commute (40 miles downhill). I had a diagnostic scan done and they found nothing wrong and I also just got both of my exhaust manifolds replaces but the issue continues.
View 3 RepliesI have to replace the valve cover gasket this weekend.
View 5 RepliesI just installed Black Forest Industries Torque Arm insert for the 09+ TSI (He said TDI's work too). Anyways the vibration noise is unbearable with the windows up, it is producing this sound frequency/ pressure that gives you an instant migraine. I am a mechanic and I followed the instructions. You really can not keep the car at idle or you head will explode. If you bring the rpm's up to 1000 its all good as gravy.
View 24 RepliesI usually get this sound when the engine is completely cold. I get a weird pulsating sound that's very loud, after the engine warms up a bit. It goes away completely.
View 19 RepliesI just purchased a 2012 CC-R 2.0T Manual. One issue I'm having is during a cold start, the engine makes a very loud noise that doesn't resemble a higher rpm that usually comes with a warm up stage. It sounds like something is grinding, followed by a vacuum/sucking noise. It lasts about 20sec and then idles normally. It only happens during cold start.
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It levels off and idles fine after about 10-15 seconds but sometimes it idles so rough I think it's going to stall.
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I have a whistle sound mostly upon decel when the engine was cold. I have the APR down pipe installed. Today it's doing it all the time even when warm. I took the car to the dealer and they said it was prolly an exhaust leak. I took the car to my friends shop and we put the car up on the lift and listened from underneath. It sounded like the turbo was echoing in the down pipe. Sometimes when it's cold it can be very loud. So my question is if this is normal with the APR down pipe or with this turbo or is this a sign that I have a turbo failure coming?
I am looking for any info on what to use for engine build for more power and torque in my race car.
View 14 RepliesCar shut off while driving to work. ASR and EPC light lit up. Pulled over to the shoulder, car had a really rough idle. Cut the car off and started it back up. Now the pep in my car is gone and it seems like I'm driving with reduced power.
View 2 RepliesOkay so my 2003 Jetta GLI normally starts without a problem. But it seems like whenever it gets cold (below about 40) it doesn't even try to start. I turn the key and nothing happens, the engine doesn't crank. All the lights turn on like normal and they're not dim so I don't think it's the battery. It'll still start if I roll-start it, but there isn't any sort of hill for a few miles. Normally once it warms up later in the day it'll start up.
View 3 RepliesI bought an R about a month ago now with a Stage II VF Supercharger kit on it. The guy I bought it from told me that it would sputter through a couple gears after a cold start b/c of what he thought was the air sensor adjusting to the temperature.
Well it's been getting warmer over the last couple days (high 50s) and it's still doing it. After I rev it up and get through a couple gears it's fine...it's great actually. There's no CEL or any other warnings on.
Been having another strange issue(2011 gti) but after searching it seems 50% of people say it's normal. The car starts to warm up and finally reaches dead center 190, then until the car is fully warmed up I notice the temp gauge will drop a bit sometimes go back up then down a little again until the car is fully warmed up then it's fine for the rest of the day. I think it may be normal but the dealer wants to replace the thermostat anyway which requires a ton of other parts to be moved. Looking for opinions if its just how it works and have never noticed before or is it maybe my thermostat beginning to stick??
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