I have an r32 mk V, runs great when its cool. I've been having a hot start issue that makes my car bog out. recently replaced the fuel pump and filter. had the dealership change O2 sensor and still having the same issue.
View 7 RepliesSo Im not sure if this is normal or not. When I try to launch my car (esp off) at around 3.5-4, then when i drop it the car is fine for a second then the awd light comes on and the car acts like its not getting gas or it bogs down until the wheels catch again. hopefully this makes sense. Why its doing this.
View 13 RepliesWith normal driving or semi spirited, once i change gears the car seems to bog down initially then pick up slowly but then it seems fine, but if I am actually getting on it threw the gears it doesn't seem to happen. its very noticeable sense the throttle response is now and it used to be great. If I let off the gas then get back on it at a lower rpm it seems to happen as well. it just feels like it dips down then picks up. i first noticed it when i down shifted to 5th the car seemed to hiccup and then went on, now its seems to be in every gear, I am not getting any codes or lights what so ever and the car drives fine other than that....
Mods: C2 flash, eip exhaust, intake.
Ok so this one is pretty hard to explain. I was driving home from school, doing about 55 in fifth gear. Out of no where, my car started to bog very hard and slow down. I pulled into a lot and as I was in the entrance of the lot the car haulted itself but stayed on. I say there for about a minute, then put it in 1st and drove into a parking spot. I stayed there for a little, then drove home in the right lane and it seems to be back to normal. I also did a few test pulls and it felt a little laggy but that might just be in my head. It's a 2012 golf r, 37k miles with just an EVOMs intake. Stock otherwise. What this could be? Don't want to get stuck on the highway somewhere if this happens again.
View 13 RepliesAlright I drive a 05 1.8t with 68k original miles.. nder a full load my car bogs and hesitates. also my turbo will stop spooling and my boost gauge will go from 10 pounds to about 4 and i will have to let go of the gas and push down again for my turbo to spool.. What this could be I can't figure it out..
Here is my car.....
I have an 87 ranger, 2.3 4cyl. 2wd 5 speed. When I start up the truck after it sits for a few hours it will idle fine but then it starts to bog down and wants to stall but after about 5 mins its fine and runs like a champ. I don't know if its a sensor or what.
View 2 RepliesMy friend has 2000 12v vr6 auto and recently he experienced his car bogging under acceleration. He had the plugs and wires recently done to solve the problem and the problem went away for a day and has since returned. I scanned it and here are the codes that its threw. After doing some research i'm thinking its the coil pack, since it was pretty foggy/damp today (when the problem started again).
17626.p1218 - fuel injector for cylinder 6 (N84): short to b+
16690.p0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
16684.p0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
1993 Golf GL III, automatic: Engine size: 2.0 Date on door 5/1993
I have an intermittent problem, in the morning my car will start fine, idle fine and drive well for about six blocks, but then it suddenly bogs down and goes sluggish like it is not getting gas or not firing correctly. It has not stalled completely, it just bogs down and giving it gas does not do much. I can barely coax the car to my destination about a mile away.
The weird part: A few hours later when I leave this location my car runs fine, starts fine, drives fine and I have no problems the rest of the day. Thus, I only have this problem in the morning, otherwise the car runs great.
Question: Could there be a sensor that is reading incorrectly in the morning, but is fine after it warms up? Perhaps the sensor is messing up the air/gas mixture.
NOTE: My check engine light is on, but I have not figured out how to pull the codes. In the middle console, above the ash tray behind two unused button panels, I have two diagnostic connectors, one black and one white (see photo). I think they may be 2x2 connectors, perhaps OBD1, but I am not sure.
* I have heard a jumper cable can be used to get the codes to blink, but I have not found any documentation to confirm that for this year and model.
* I am also not sure if an OBD2 scanner could read this codes if I use an 16 pin adapter.
Pull codes, either using a jumper or scanner, My local auto parts stores will not pull the codes.
1999 Ford Triton V-10 engine, after changing Oxygen sensors, all vacuum hoses and Mass airflow sensor,(also replaced another sensor but can't think of the name of it right now) now I don't get the codes but engine will start and idle but if I give the engine gas it bogs down and stalls. Vehicle sat in my driveway for 3 months, I got it started and drove it once about 30 miles filled up my gas tank thinking gas could be stale, but now it will not run.
View 5 RepliesI just purchased 8/1/2012 a GEM of a garage kept 95 Celica Hatchback ST with 5 speed manual transmission.
The car was registered and driven until 8/2008 and garaged until 8/1/2012. The proud owner started it and drove it around the block so the car has not been completely idle for 4 years but very little miles driven. 165K miles on this baby. The car started right up and drove like a dream during my test drive and on the sweet drive home.
This morning 1st and 2nd gear acted like it was not getting enough gas (bogged down) and jerked as if I did not know how to drive a stick. But once it gets going is fine on 3rd, 4th and 5th gears. The car idles fine and accelerates fine when not in gear. I reached 80 on the interstate with no issues at all. Once at the stop light the low gear issues persist. Not clear as to what it could be.
I have a 1997 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 SOHC engine. It bogs down and won't go over 20 MPH. I'm showing codes P1405 and P1151. Would either of these codes cause that issue? I'm not even sure how to start diagnosing this.
View 1 RepliesThe fuel pump has just been replaced with no change. Exhaust has been unbolted before converter to rule out catalytic converter. It ran the same.
View 1 RepliesI have a 97 Pontiac Grand Am w 3.1 engine that is my son's college car. We recently rebuilt the original engine and put it in after having a 99 monte carlo 3.1 engine in it's place and it had a head gasket problem as well. Just before we switched engines my son was noticing that it would kind of hesitate under acceleration from about 1500 rpm to around 2000 rpm especially when it was wanting to up shift. I figured it would resolve itself with the engine change. It did not. It has now gradually gotten worse.
My son drove it to Liberal about 4 hours away and he stated it was worse and especially when you would get into overdrive it would drop down to around 2000 rpm then start sputtering or loading up or just being dead then would down shift to 3rd and try to clean itself out and speed up and then up shift to OD and do the same cycle again. I drove it back and kept it in 3rd gear and seemed to run fine at 2500 or higher. I also had to go thru low, and 2 and feather it up from a standing start. It idles fine as well.
I thought it might be like one of the saturns I had which ended up having a plugged Catalytic converter and a bad coolant temp sensor. This morning I did a test hole and it made no difference. I tried a different coil pack/ESC and it made no difference. I cleaned the MAF sensor and no change. The fuel pressure is 41 then 38 when idling then 43 when remove the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose. I also changed the fuel filter.
I was kind of ruling out the tps, iac, and egr and water temp sensor as those were part of the other engine when I put the other engine in so they are different and I am assuming they must be good. Plugs and plug wires are new as well. It has not thrown any codes. I did notice that when it is just in park and you press on the accelerator to rev it up it only will rev to 3500 rpm and will shut down like a rev limiter is kicking in and just do a kind of surge thing. My saturn did that too and it was a plugged cat and when I knocked the biskit out of the manifold on that car it stopped. I have already got that ruled out though.
When the A/C is on it puts a good load on the engine. It's fine when it's going down the road when the accelerator is being used but at an idle it bogs the engine, it doesn't cut off but you can feel the load. Isn't there a solenoid or sensor, or something that's suppose to make the accelerator compensate for the load and if so what is it called and where is it located, and how to check it?
View 2 RepliesMy GF owns a 2001 Elantra 2.0l automatic.
We've had the problem with it not taking fuel like it should. It clicks off after a quarter gallon at a time - so it takes forever to fill up. I've cleaned some of the carbon pellets from the lines going to the charcoal canister but, I think there is a clog in the vent lines going to it. Haven't got around to trying to dislodge them with pressurized air -yet. Anyways, I don't know if that has anything to do with this but, I just wanted to bring that up.
What the problem is is that she was going 45-60mph down the road and she said the engine seemed to suddenly lose power and she was unable to go over 20mph. She had to pull over to let the cars behind her pass. She sat there for a minute or so (never turning off the engine) and then it seemed to gain power back and she made it home (about 2miles from where that happend). She said it happend again when she put it into reverse to park at the house.
I got in the car after it sat (off) for a few minutes and took it down the road but, couldn't replicate the issue. It ran fine for me -of course. She has told me she had a similar issue about a year ago but, nothing came up of it so I just shrugged it off. What should I be looking for? I checked all fluids and checked the intake hosing for obstructions and found none. The tank was on E but, the light wasn't on. She thought maybe she was running out of fuel.
I had her run to the parts store to get some SeaFoam and trans fluid (slight axle seal leak). She put half of the bottle in and filled it up. Didn't have any issue after that and made it to work this morning with no problems.
I have a 2000 Silverado z71 5.3l my problem is intermittent bogging/backfiring after startup. The truck starts fine every time but it is when you put it in gear and hit the gas it stumbles and backfires through the intake for the first minute or so. If I baby the throttle it will eventually clear up and run fine after about a mile. It does this cold most of the time but often does it warm also. Fuel pressure is good it has been tuned up I cant find any intake leaks. After it clears up it seems to run fine but it is really irritating when I go to pull out of a gas station in traffic and I have to pull over and wait 30 to 60 seconds of idle then it runs normal.
View 1 RepliesI have a Check engine light on. I was driving up to go skiing and i was going up a hill, so i downshifted to 4th and the engine bogs down and the check engine light comes on, and it wont let me accelerate beyond 3000 RPM. I pull off at the next exit and turn the car off and go skiing(I was already there, I drove all the way and I figured I might as well ski). I come back after a few hours and head home, Im taking it easey but i notice that it seems to drive normal now, but the CEL is still on. What the problem could be? I have already had both turbos replaced and the last month the ecu was reprogrammed for throwing up faulty codes. But this time there may be something wrong with the engine.
View 10 RepliesI have a 91 4Runner SR5 V6 3.0L that has been a great truck (like all of them?) until just recently.
Symptoms are bogging at roughly 25 mph or 2500 rpm in second to third gear. It will also sometimes not take off from a stop at a slight incline. By hammering the throttle down and forcing a downshift, the truck will rev up and then accelerate, but then again sometimes bog down until the same "forced shift" is done.
This seems prevalent when the engine is hot, however, that may be coincidental with the high temps here in So Texas lately. The truck does seem to run fine for a while after starting it. Mechanic hasn't isolated anything.
I have a 460 with a holley manual choke 750 single pumper carb on it, when I pull out truck bogs very badly, if I try to punch it will stall unless I let off the throttle.
It seems to run best with choke almost all the way on. What the problem could be?
I'm almost positive its a carburetor problem, just not sure exactly what the problem is, could a blown power valve cause this??
The accelerator pump seems to be working properly ...
I seem to have fixed all the other problems i was having except 1. I blew the head gaskets on my Z and it sat in the garage for about 2 months. Tore it apart and changed everything, now I have an issue when it runs for about a minute or so when i get on it, it bogs down and has terrible acceleration. I just changed the opti, coil, icm, oil pressure sender, new plugs. Engine light was on previously gave codes, 48 and 29. swapped out my MAS sensor... checked fuses and there was a bad one for the air pump, changed it and the ses light went off.... I am thinking a fuel filter needs replaced? I am at a loss here. It ran perfectly fine before i blew the gaskets. its a little rough at idle, but i had cut my cat off and ran 3" out the back to the flowmaster....
View 7 RepliesWhen I am driving at a higher speed and I need to pass someone or accelerate, the engine bogs down. I push the peddle to the floor and nothing. This does not happen all the time but it happens. But when I accelerate from a light or lower speeds there does not seem to be an issue. I recently had the value gaskets replaced because of a small oil leak and it seems this problem began after then. I have taken it back to the shop but the problem does not duplicate itself when they test drive it.
View 14 Replies