Golf V R32 :: MK5 Refuses To Move Forward Or Back?
May 1, 2016
Here's the story and unfortunately no happy ending so my VW started rubbing on the front right side a lot, causing my tires to rip on the front right end. After a while of sitting in the garage i finally decided to go and get a new tire for the car
on the way to the tire shop i noticed some very weird squeaking, i figured it was from the spare tire but it continued even on the new tire. That same night heading to the gym, the R started jerking while driving, almost as if i was pressing the brakes while driving
eventually the car just locks all the tires out of no where, i barely manage to pull into a side street and i could not even make it more than 4 feet from the curb forward. A friend of mine stopped by that saw me, he pulled a cable that seemed to have been wrapped around my axle, said it might of been causing the problem. As i drove away, maybe half a mile more, the car locks up entirely again, this time unable to even get to the side of the street it locked up completely in the middle of an intersection. now here is where it gets really strange. Even in neutral the car refuses to go forward, it was on a hill, in neutral and the car refused to move. So i attempted to push it a little, in drive, i pushed on the gas. it almost feels like the car is setting up for launch control, like the brakes are being held down and it moves about 6-10 feet and grinds to a halt, same in reverse. It took us almost 20 minutes to get it up on a trailer and another 20 to get it into the garage just going 2 steps forward and 1 back the whole time.
I have heard anywhere from transmission to drive train, to transfer boxes and axles to even a warped rotor causing this. Where to start?
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My drivers seat wont disengage from the track on the right side rail next to the console.
Any shot from the manual before I take it apart?
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My drivers seat won't disengage from the track on the right side rail next to the console.
Looking for a shot from the manual before I take it apart?
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My wife's power drivers seat will only move forward not back. Fuses all look good and the passenger seat operates fine. If this continues and she hits the button again she will need to be shorter than the 5' she is already. No chance at this point I can fit in the car.
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Just a heads up to all MKIV GTI owners out there, new and old. If you feel like the tension on your clutch pedal is deteriorating get it checked earlier rather than later. Because if the slave cylinder malfunctions and leaks you will be faced with a big repair bill due to the fact that the slave cylinder is located inside the tranny. Secondly because of this design, which I think is very stupid, it leaks onto the clutch assembly and can get on your clutch plate. At that point you should replace the clutch plate to prevent any further damage that might be caused by slippage. The clutch plate should not come in contact with any fluids or it will compromise the functionality.
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When I am stopped and remove my foot from the brake, the car shudders as it moves forward. This happens when I do not give it any throttle. The idle forward is jerky...like it pulses. It feels like when you let the clutch out too slow on a manual trans. The DSG in all it's techno-glory should be able to release it's clutch(s) smoothly one would think? It happens when I am waiting in line at a stop sign or in traffic...anytime I need to idle forward slowly. I've been driving it for less than a week...it has 320 miles and I'm keeping it under the limits for break-in (BORING). Anyway, the thought of taking it for service at this point is depressing..
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I have a 2004 2.0L Jetta with a 5 Speed manual transmission.
When shifting into third gear sometimes I push the shifter forward and it does not want to move all the way forward. It feels like I am pushing the shifter knob against a wall, or more accurately the bottom of the shift that pulls the cables feels like it is hitting a wall. If I pull it back out and press it in hard it will go into place sometimes.
This also solves the problem: While the shifter is mid shift into third, at the wall/ at the point of resistance, I let off the clutch slightly to give the flywheel some friction. This rolls the transmission a bit and allows third gear to slide into place.
I have experience with a MK4 Audi TT 1.8T that cam with a 6-SPD and it at had a 1-2 and 2-3 synchronizer issue (The one where the nipples are worn and it grinds at higher RPMS because they can no longer make a firm handshake). The issue I am experiencing is not that.
Could it be the transmission cables? Could it be some other cogs in the transmission? - If so does this mean I need to buy a used one? My car has 180K miles on it with the original clutch.
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I'm new here and I am having issues with my Lumina. It is a 93 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.1L 6 cylinder and has 192K miles on it. It has had one owner for the past ten years that I know for a fact.
Here's what happened. I was coming back home (2hr trip) The brakes had started making that roaring sound on the way down and had gotten worse when I got ready to make the trip home. Okay so I know the brake pads needed to be changed. No big deal. Well going down the road at 65mph I round a curve and my car starts making this REALLY LOUD grinding clattering noise. It took me forever to get it stopped. I will still in the road and I needed to get it out bc it was right around a curve. So I put it in drive and it wont move. So I put it in reverse and it moves just fine with no problems and no noises made. After backing it out of the road I tried to put it in drive. It moved forward a few inches and stopped like something was binding it up.
So here's the problem.. it will move in reverse with no problems at all and only creeps a couple of inches forward then stops. The harder you press on the gas the more it tries to lurch forward but will not move.. like it's caught on something.
We changed the rear brakes on it. Discovered that the driver side rear rotor and caliper were broke beyond repair so we replaced those too. Still the same.. moves forward a lil bit and stops but will go in reverse just fine. We don't seem to think its the tranny bc it pulls hard and seems to not have any problems pulling.. but its like something is bound up somewhere. That is the best way I know how to explain this situation.
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My trailblazer will not move in reverse , and will barely move forward, i checked transmission fluid hot and it's not even on the dipstick but when it was cold. it was?? Do I add more or what?..
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Why I am getting such terrible gas mileage? The truck refuses to move off of 12 mpg. I made a 500 mile trip half of it at 70 mph running 2100 rpm. And when I filled up I calculated out 11.3 mpg. After that fill up hopped on the interstate and was running around 85 @ 2600 rpm expecting my mileage to drop even lower. Then i was on two lane hwy again constantly passing people and it only dropped to 11.1 mpg. Now no matter how easy I drive or how hard I drive it will not move over 12 mpg. Whether the tank is 100% hwy or 50/50. Its a 5 spd manual 4x4 with no modifications running the 4.6 v8. I just swapped air filters to a K&N and still no change.
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I drive with the seat slider in the full back position. I'd like to gain another inch or so....just enough to where I'm not touching the rear seat. Not worried about rear passengers. How easy would it be to either reposition the seat anchor points or modify the seat itself to do this? Also, has anyone tilted the front of the seat up a little to give more thigh support? I was also thinking of shimming or otherwise raising the front half of the seat maybe 1/2 inch to give my legs a little more support.
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The car is a 2000 Intrigue with 3.5L engine.
The problem is: about once a month the gas pedal won't go down when trying to move forward after the car has come to a full stop. Feels like I'm stepping on a rock when I step on the pedal. Then I tap on the pedal with my foot a few times and the pedal will go down smoothly, car accelerates and everything feels normal until it happens again.
Where to look for the interference if that is what it is? Also,I tried to cause this hard pedal to happen & have been unable to do so.
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2004 BMW 330i 140k miles.
We first noticed this problem a year or so ago. At first, it happened only on cool mornings if the car had been parked outside. The cold car would require 3-4,000 RPM to move, forward or reverse. After about one minute or 3-4 blocks, the transmission worked perfectly at the touch of the throttle for the rest of the day.
It only happens about half the time. Other times, even if cool and after being parked for days, the transmission engages normally from idle and up.
Once recently, it deviated from this pattern. After sitting overnight, it started and pulled into the garage normally. I shut it off for a couple of minutes to place ramps in front of the tires and restarted the car. It did not want to move on the second start. It took 3500 RPM to climb the ramps. That was scary. The car has never suddenly engaged, but if it had suddenly engaged at that moment, it would have shot me through the front of the garage.
Last week I took it to the transmission specialty shop with the best reviews in town. As life would have it, he kept it three days, driving it four times, and it worked perfectly each time he drove it. Fluid looks fine (replaced at 120k miles) and fluid level is perfect. No codes stored in transmission computer.
I thought it was intermittently draining the torque converter until this last time when it failed after being shut off for only a couple of minutes.
The transmission guy is not interested in rebuilding the transmission even if I wanted to try it. He worries that because he does not know what is causing the problem.
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1997 ford f150 automatic 4x4 was perfectly fine till today ,no slipping no warning nothing.pulled in the driveway and about 30 minutes later had to run out.the truck tried and pulled like it wanted to go while in drive but wouldn't.then i tried it in reverse and went fine like nothing is wrong.i put it back into drive accelerated for a minute then it went for about 15 miles.while at a red light tried to go and it wouldnt move but was able to put it in reverse to back out of the lane.so i had it tow roped back home and halfway there while accelerated about 10 miles into it it caught and ran fine till i slowed down.at home i changed the tranny filter and fluid.no foul smell,the fluid looked perfect,no metal nothing in the tranny pan,i tried to put it in 2wd and 4wd to see if it would go and still did nothing.after accelerating the gas a minute it pulled and tried to move forward but nothing.
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The gear shift works fine, and we lifted the hood and saw that the mech. arm IS working when we shift. However, the van will not move into any gear. won't go forward, reverse, etc... it acts like it isn't shifting.
i was driving down the highway, and noticed it wasn't accelerating and stepped on the gas.. .and nothing. I stopped the van, put in park, turned it off. Started it again, and put in D and wouldn't go, just engine revved. then put in reverse and same thing... didn't move but engine revved.
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I have an 06 Montana sv6 that clunks when I start to move forward or reverse. Not when I put it in gear but as I start to move. It also does it when I take off from a stop sign. It doesn't make any noise while driving or turning though.
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I have a '90 Bonneville SSE and after coming to a stop at a red light on the highway, when the light turned green the car wouldn't move forward. There were no odd noises, the car had been in cruise control and there had been no problems up to that point. The car shifted crisply, there was no obvious slippage or hesitation going into gear.
I can feel the car engage in both drive and reverse, but it won't move at all.
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2003 Maxda 6 automatic transmission with 167k miles and in the past 2 days has been slow to move forward when placed in the drive position. Only happens when first starting after sitting cold all night and after sitting all day after work. The fluid level is good and clean with no "burnt" smell nor signs of metallic particles. Are the bands getting loose? If so, are they adjustable without removing transmission? Do they have to be replaced and at what cos? Is there another issue occurring?
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2008 Sonata 4Cyl
My Driver Seat Does not move Forward any more. It will go back, up & Down Just not Forward.
Is there a Seat Reset Switch somewhere I don't know about ? How do I troubleshoot this?
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I have a 2001 infiniti i30 automatic with about 118000 miles. The car runs and drives fine but every now and then while i am driving it and i push on gas the RPM will go up but the car will not move forward. I noticed that this usually happens when I drive the car a lot. If i turn it off and on it drives normal again. I have had 3 mechanics try to troubleshoot it one recommended to change the MAF which I did and the car ran fine for about 6 months and is starting to do it again. Service engine soon light is on again. What exactly is the issue that's causing it.
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Can the head rests in a 2013 ES be moved forward or back, not just up or down? I thought I read somewhere they could, but for the life of me I can only get mine to go up and down ....
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